Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:08 AM - Re: Covering (Charles N. Campbell)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: model A engine (bender)
3. 08:43 AM - Re: Covering (taildrags)
4. 01:40 PM - Re: Covering (John Kuhfahl)
Message 1
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Ekobond glue. And get the Stewart videos. I believe anyone could do a
good cover job after watching those videos a few times.
On Thu, Jun 19, 2014 at 10:32 PM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
wrote:
> OK So it need to get:
>
> Lightweight Ceconite (1.8OZ)
>
> Ceconite New Super Seam 1 QT (Or Eko Bond glue?)
>
> Ceconite Hand Thread 250, Stits Hand Sewing Thread? flat stitch cord
>
> 3"Curved Needle or home made needle, (welding rod)
>
> 2" Pinked tapes
>
> 1" cheapest Home Depot type brush I could find
>
> A good old iron and use the same extension cord every time. And mark the
> three settings.
>
> An IR thermometer. (I had one and it has sprouted legs. Also good to use
> if you have a bad plug to check for the cold jug)
>
> And one custom tool for the cement. glue a coffee can lid to the bottom
> of a Dixie cup for stability, then used another Dixie cup inside the first
> to put the glue in. After each glue session just replace the inner cup.
>
> and don't use a heat gun, no matter what.
>
> Anything else?
> Do I need the Ceconite manual? I would have loved to attend Oshkosh and
> a homebuilders class. Indeed I had planned on coming, but life intervened.
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 2:08 PM, Gmail <gbacon67@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I used an infrared thermometer gun to make sure the iron temp was good.
>>
>> Greg Bacon
>> Mtn. Piet
>>
>> > On Jun 18, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Douwe <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >
>> douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
>> >
>> > I'd add some anti chafe tape to that list
>> >
>> > The covering on the tail is right in the slipstream and vibrates a ton.
>> Cover the structure where it'll wear the covering.
>> >
>> > You'll also want a strip over each rib on the outside of the covering
>> so the stitching doesn't tear thru
>> >
>> > You wife's iron will likely get something on it, don't ask how I
>> learned this...
>> >
>> > Oh, and don't use a heat gun...
>> >
>> > Douwe
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPhone
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> br> -List" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> ==========
>> MS -
>> k">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> e -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: model A engine |
The Bearings are in the right position..
the pistons are cast. I do understand the way the forged pistons grow more than
cast pistons requiring more clearance. I'm going to open up the bores and try
it again. I like the idea of running the engine in my AA truck except for the
double engine change. I guess really long ground runs will be in order.
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425160#425160
Message 3
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Steve;
Note that there is a distinction between "rib lace cord" and "sewing thread" in
the covering supplies. The rib lace cord is heavier. Don't use the lighter
thread for rib lacing.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425167#425167
Message 4
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steve, call louie vigiano--661-0841--80 year old wealth of knowledge
On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 1:56 PM, Douwe <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> I'd add some anti chafe tape to that list
>
> The covering on the tail is right in the slipstream and vibrates a ton.
> Cover the structure where it'll wear the covering.
>
> You'll also want a strip over each rib on the outside of the covering so
> the stitching doesn't tear thru
>
> You wife's iron will likely get something on it, don't ask how I learned
> this...
>
> Oh, and don't use a heat gun...
>
> Douwe
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
--
John Kuhfahl, Lt Col USAF (Ret),
President, KUHLCOUPER LLC
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