Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:37 AM - Re: Lift struts (Pietflyer1977)
2. 09:19 AM - Re: new engine (taildrags)
3. 09:25 AM - Re: battery (taildrags)
4. 02:33 PM - Re: Re: new engine (Ray Krause)
5. 03:59 PM - Re: Drawing the rib (Bill Church)
6. 06:04 PM - Re: Drawing the rib (Pocono John)
7. 07:16 PM - Re: Corvair College 31 (bdewenter)
8. 08:15 PM - Re: new engine (taildrags)
9. 08:45 PM - Re: Re: new engine (Ray Krause)
10. 09:56 PM - Re: new engine (taildrags)
Message 1
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I actually just got mine Friday. 4130 ones as close as you can get to the sizes
on the plans these days. You might check AED Motorsport in Indianapolis Indiana.
That is who I deal with all the time. They have a lot better quality than
Spruce and they even said they have been straightening some pieces for Spruce.
All there tubing is USA or from Germany. Nothing from China which is what you
get most of the time from other suppliers. The Germany tubing is even better.
It welds really nice and better than any other tubing. They are very knowledgable
and can even give you certification papers if you need then. They make the
streamline there, and will make it and ship it immediately. The cabane pieces
were $284.20 ( I went with .049 but they can make in .035) and wing struts
were $913.92. ( .049)The drops from the wing struts ( left over 1 3/4 tube they
used are sent to you )were $95.28. It's cheaper for you to just buy and keep.
You can call and ask for Dave Gordon 317-334-0569 Have dealt with Carlson and
also good to deal with and good quality but have never used any on a Piet. These
are just some of my opinions.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430871#430871
Message 2
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Ray; not everyone can sport the Continental faceplate on their prop... a good percentage
of these engines have the tapered shaft hub rather than the flanged
shaft. The nose of the tapered shaft protrudes out the front and while you could
bore a hole in the Continental faceplate to accommodate the nose of the shaft,
the effect would be lost because most of the artwork would be gone too.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430877#430877
Message 3
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Steve; do some comparing of battery capacities after you've tabulated the power
draws of everything you plan to power off the battery. Note that radios have
different power draws when transmitting as when receiving, so you'll need to
guess at the percentage of use in each mode. Once you have the anticipated power
draw, look at battery amp-hours to compare capacities.
My own preference runs to the batteries that are commonly used in personal computer
UPSs or emergency exit light batteries. They can be found in 14V, which
is the voltage that we need, and can be readily found on eBay or other sources,
very inexpensively. Those batteries are gelled cell so they are not full of
liquid and aren't fussy about mounting position. Pretty compact, too.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430878#430878
Message 4
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Oscar,
Bummer! I have the tapered shaft but have never even tried to install the prop.
Have the same engine on the Aeronca, but it has a metal prop and a spinner...never
had the spinner off! Does the tapered shaft even require a crush plate?
Sure glad you are back so you can keep us newbies on the straight and narrow!
Guess I can't be just like you, my hero.
Just upgraded to the new iOS 8 and it sure does a lot of things differently. It
even tries to anticipate what I will say next! I sure better be careful; I henceforth
absolve myself of any responsibility for what I say!
Thanks,
Ray Krause
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 21, 2014, at 9:19 AM, taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ray; not everyone can sport the Continental faceplate on their prop... a good
percentage of these engines have the tapered shaft hub rather than the flanged
shaft. The nose of the tapered shaft protrudes out the front and while you
could bore a hole in the Continental faceplate to accommodate the nose of the
shaft, the effect would be lost because most of the artwork would be gone too.
>
> --------
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
> A75 power
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430877#430877
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Drawing the rib |
Actually, there are a couple of other differences. The page 30 drawing has three
spaces at 1 1/2", whereas the improved plans have one space at 1 1/8" and two
spaces at 1 1/2". Also, the final space is 1 1/4" on the page 30 drawing,
and 1 3/4" on the improved plans. The "improved" drawing dimensions actually
add up to 60 1/8".
And, not to nit-pick, but the page 5 rib was drawn in 1934. 86 years later would
be the year 2020. we're not there yet. I got my full size rib drawing from
Don Pietenpol 10 years ago.
I lofted my rib, using the dimensions on page 5, and it matches the full size drawing
pretty well. There are none of the big differences you are experiencing,
and there shouldn't be big differences between the two.
However, I think the 1 1/2" vertical dimension at the leading edge is incorrect.
I took a photo of the plans, and used a CAD program to scale the dimension.
The 1 1/2" vertical dimension scales to about 1.15". I superimposed a line
at 1.5", and you can see that it sits too high. The actual leading edge should
fall somewhere around 1 1/4" from the reference line. (see attachment)
Bill C.
John wrote:
> Other than the rear brace, dimensions on page 30 match drawing page 5.
>
> All I know from the phone call is the full size rib came out 86 years after the
page 5 rib, and either is acceptable (they're different). When you plot and
compare to the full size, you'll see the same thing I saw.
>
> Generally speaking, page 5 rib forward nine inches is a little thicker, but then
slightly narrower until the trailing edge.
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430893#430893
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rib_107.pdf
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Drawing the rib |
Thanks for that Bill. I printed out your file. You're absolutely correct on the
year 2020, but I just wrote down what he told me. I'm building based on my measurements
from page 5. I know those are correct.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430896#430896
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair College 31 |
Wheelharp,
Knew you made that mistake, but this Piet forum does not 'HARP' on people for these
small imperefections..(like my typing)
We are glad you are in the forum.
--------
Bob 'Early Builder' Dewenter
Dayton OH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430898#430898
Message 8
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Ray;
Yes, the tapered shaft hub will use a crush plate on the front of the prop. Here's
what the one on my A65 looked like:
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/CEA_Piet04.jpg
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430900#430900
Message 9
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Thanks Oscar! Guess I did not get the crush plate with the setup. I set the prop
on the shaft this afternoon and can see where the crush plate had been. Guess
I will make one.
Ray
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 21, 2014, at 8:14 PM, taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ray;
>
> Yes, the tapered shaft hub will use a crush plate on the front of the prop.
Here's what the one on my A65 looked like:
>
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/CEA_Piet04.jpg
>
> --------
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
> A75 power
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430900#430900
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Ray; the crush plate on my A65 was made of steel and it appeared to be a sub-part
of the hub assembly. The objective is to have all of the bolts apply force
evenly to the face of the wooden prop so the wood doesn't crush in the immediate
area of the bolt head, so if you make a new one out of aluminum (or steel),
don't make it too thin or it will flex when you torque the bolts down. In fact,
the best thing to do is to see if you can find another airplane with a tapered
shaft and crush plate on it, then use that as a go-by.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=430902#430902
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