Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:13 AM - What's Your Contribution Used For? (Matt Dralle)
1. 12:05 AM - Wood varnish or epoxy1200? (Vasek)
2. 01:12 AM - Re: Question about solenoid and a new video (contato @kraussaero.com.br)
3. 05:02 AM - Re: Wood varnish or epoxy1200? (Jack Phillips)
4. 05:30 AM - Re: Question about solenoid and a new video (Jeff Boatright)
5. 05:30 AM - another beautiful 1929 design. (car) (nightmare)
6. 06:42 AM - Starter solenoid (Timothy Willis)
7. 06:52 AM - model A mount problem (Douwe Blumberg)
8. 07:29 AM - Re: Question about solenoid and a new video (Jerry Dotson)
9. 07:31 AM - Re: Starter solenoid (Boatright, Jeffrey)
10. 07:51 AM - Re: Question about solenoid and a new video (Jeff Boatright)
11. 01:03 PM - rivets (John Greenlee)
12. 01:34 PM - Re: Question about solenoid and a new video (AircamperN11MS)
13. 02:41 PM - Re: Starter solenoid (tkreiner)
Message 0
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| Subject: | What's Your Contribution Used For? |
Dear Listers,
You might have wondered at some point, "What's my Contribution used for?" Here
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It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables all these aspects of Matronics List
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or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
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Thank you for your support!
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Email List Administrator
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wood varnish or epoxy1200? |
Hello!
recently I hear from one man, experienced aircraft builder, that instead of varnishing
ribs and spars with wood varnish, I should use the spare glue (resin,
epoxy 1200 I use) mixed with technical alcohol and apply it on the wood. One layer
is enough, the surface of the wood will be perfectly threatened.
As far as I know, a classic wood varnish also gets inside the wood and hardens
it, while the second effect is that it creates a protective layer on the surface.
What do you think about the advice, do you have any experience with the advised
method?
Thanks!
Vasek
--------
My production of WW1 propellers, trophies and constructions:
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433831#433831
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| Subject: | Re: Question about solenoid and a new video |
Thank you Sir. for the opportunity to fly with you. This is really fly !!!
Congratulations.
Roberto Serrano
www.kraussaero.com.br
2014-11-16 21:31 GMT-02:00 Jeff Boatright <jeffboatright@emory.edu>:
> jeffboatright@emory.edu>
>
> Hello Good Pietple!
>
> As you can see in the this new video "Out and barely back again,"
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-_SHt6tj4I
>
> it's time to get a new battery. The first start of the day is sluggish,
> and I danged near didn=99t get =98er started after fueling up
at Covington
> (which is only the second start of the day; see the 3 min mark of the
> video). I put it on a trickle charger all night, and this afternoon it
> basically did the same thing.
>
> That's OK, that Odyssey 625 battery is at least 8 years old, and we run i
t
> as a total loss system (no generator/alternator, just a solar charger whi
le
> on the ground; we removed the generator after we had problems with it).
>
> Which comes to my Question for The List. Since we at one time had a
> generator, we installed a master switch with a solenoid. We don't have th
e
> charging system any more, but we still have the master with a solenoid.
> That danged solenoid draws a lot of power (relative to anything else we u
se
> in the airplane). Since the Continental uses a pull starter, does anyone
> see a reason for me to keep the solenoid? I'm thinking to change the meag
er
> electrical system to have a master switch that is just a toggle, with no
> solenoid. I'd have the battery connected directly to the Continental
> starter -- the pull starter switch would be acting as a mechanical
> solenoid. Uncle Tony says this is OK.
>
> WHAT SAY YOU?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433819#433819
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
Serrano, Roberto Brand=C3=A3o, M.Sc.
Kra=C3=BCss Aeron=C3=A1utica Ind. e Com. de Aeronaves Ltda.
www.kraussaero.com.br
www.facebook.com/KraussAeronautica
contato@kraussaero.com.br
krauss@kraussaero.com.br
Tel. Fixo Oficina: +55 (0xx) 35 4104 0434
Tel. Fixo F=C3=A1brica: + 55(0xx) 35 4101 2952
Cel. 1: +55 (0xx) 35 9166 2954 TIM
Cel. 2: +55 (0xx) 35 8838 5487 VIVO
Message 3
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| Subject: | Wood varnish or epoxy1200? |
Vasek,
I've seen that technique done on an Osprey 2 Amphibian, using West System
Epoxy. However, that is the only plane I've seen it done on, and I lost
contact with that project - don't know if it ever flew, or what long term
effects that treatment produced.
I think doing that would probably cost more (epoxy is not cheap!) and be
more labor intensive than using varnish. I think the same or better results
could be produced by using a good epoxy varnish, such as PolyFiber's. I
used it on my Pietenpol, including my spruce landing gear struts which take
a lot of abuse from weather, sun, weeds, oil, etc. and are still as good
today as they were when varnished 15 years ago.
Good luck!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vasek
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2014 2:57 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood varnish or epoxy1200?
Hello!
recently I hear from one man, experienced aircraft builder, that instead of
varnishing ribs and spars with wood varnish, I should use the spare glue
(resin, epoxy 1200 I use) mixed with technical alcohol and apply it on the
wood. One layer is enough, the surface of the wood will be perfectly
threatened.
As far as I know, a classic wood varnish also gets inside the wood and
hardens it, while the second effect is that it creates a protective layer on
the surface.
What do you think about the advice, do you have any experience with the
advised method?
Thanks!
Vasek
--------
My production of WW1 propellers, trophies and constructions:
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433831#433831
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Question about solenoid and a new video |
gboothe wrote:
> You taxi fast! Sometimes I do, too, when I have to pee...
>
> I tried a fin-mounted camera, but get way too much vibration. Yours isnt bad
at all.
>
> Gary Boothe
> NX308MB
>
>
> --
I'll send along photos of the mount. If you think my trim mechanism is cheapo,
you'll love this camera mount.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433911#433911
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| Subject: | another beautiful 1929 design. (car) |
when u walk into the IND airport front entrance, this is the first thing you see.
--------
Paul Donahue
Started 8-3-12
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433912#433912
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20141117_072430_482.jpg
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| Subject: | Starter solenoid |
Jeff, I don't think you want to wire from the switch to the starter, if as
l understand it, the power to the starter would flow through the switch on
the panel. Likely your present wiring is light and would not support such
current, and perhaps the simple toggle switch itself would not.
Though I am likely ill informed, I would eliminate the solenoid as a master
but use it for the starter alone. You still have the heavy current draw
through the solenoid, but only when starting. That way you can have light
wiring from your starter button (see below) to the starter solenoid.
However instead of going directly to the starter, the starter circuit would
go to the "actuating switch" at the starter, as shown in the following, as
you originally intended:
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/clutch.html
Finally the "starter switch" at the instrument panel should be
spring-loaded so that it is off unless you are holding it down. A
pushbutton switch like this one might work well:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/edmomomentary5.php
You might want to put a guard over it as well, since Piet cockpits and
knees often collide, etc.
No doubt you will get better ideas from others who are better informed.
Tim
===================
I'm thinking to change the meager electrical system to have a master
switch that is just a toggle, with no solenoid. I'd have the battery
connected
directly to the Continental starter -- the pull starter switch would be
acting as a mechanical solenoid. Uncle Tony says this is OK.
Message 7
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| Subject: | model A mount problem |
Hey Stu,
I don't remember exactly what we did, but I DO remember the clearance was
tight!
First I'd suggest you look at a lot of ford installations on
westcoastpiet.com and see if there are any pics to help you out.
Would it work if you ground off part of the bolt head and part of the
washer?
My ford installation is now a continental so I don't have it in front of me.
I know I didn't use the springs. The engine layed on top of strips of
vibration absorbing rubber-type material and then had the same thing under
the bolt head washer.
Good luck,
Douwe
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| Subject: | Re: Question about solenoid and a new video |
Jeff,
I used a mechanical switch with zero drain.
http://www.harborfreight(.)com/heavy-duty-battery-cutoff-switch-66789.html
I ran a 1/4" OD stainless tube from the rear pit to the firewall to turn it. The
operating handle is behind the firewall. see picture. Works fine but in my case
I have electric oil# and temp gauges and if left on long enough it will discharge
the battery. Rotate the circled piece up 90 degrees turns it on. The solenoid
is for the starter. The switch is rotary....turns either direction or
round and round.
Jerry
--------
Jerry Dotson
First flight June 16,2012
Flying in phase 2
Lycoming O-235 C2C
Jay Anderson CloudCars prop 76 X 44
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433920#433920
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/master_switch_700.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a16_292.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a17_135.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Starter solenoid |
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Question about solenoid and a new video |
Thanks for the replies. Lots of interesting information!
To distill my question to its essence: Is it useful to have a starter solenoid
in a pull-starter system? I think that the pull starter set-up acts as a mechanical
starter solenoid. I'm not coming up with scenarios in which the redundancy
of an electrical solenoid in line with the mechanical system is worthwhile.
I'm only considering this because I already have a solenoid installed on the
firewall.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433922#433922
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Hello, Good People,
I am in the midst of making new cowlings for my Ford powered Air Camper.
The original motor cowl I had assembled with commercial pop rivets-easy to
do, and the tools were at hand. I have started wondering whether it should
be assembled with aircraft type rivets. This is a non structural part so
probably no real advantage other than cosmetics.
My questions for the assembled Pietenpol Brain Trust:
1. How much difference would this really make?
2. How difficult are the bucked rivets to install?
3. What is required tool wise? I have an appropriate compressor and
air chisel. Are there appropriate rivet driving tools for the chisel or is
a more specialized tool required? Cost of usable tools?
Any advice on this topic is appreciated and some of it might even be
followed.
Ezra Styles
(John Greenlee)
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Question about solenoid and a new video |
Hi Jeff,
Nice video. I don't have the patience for that kind of thing.
Anyway, if all you are using the Battery for is starting then you don't need the
second solenoid. That is what the cable type starter is doing for you. If
you are running power to your radio through the firewall mounted solenoid then
it might be advantageous to keep it. At least you can shut the power off when
the plane is parked.
Good question. Cu-do's for recognizing it as extra weight or even more stuff to
go wrong.
Happy Landings,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433934#433934
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Starter solenoid |
Jeff,
Consider this...
If your electrical bus is powered on during startup, the electrical spike from
the starter pull switch could possibly trash radio's, transponder, etc. Also,
if jump starting, or connecting a charger to battery, etc., you could accidentally
cause a spike on your electrical system.
As we all know, Murphy's law tells us that at exactly the time a switch is left
on accidentally, the spike will happen...
One of the purposes of a Master Switch and/or Avionics Master is to isolate your
pricey electronics from spikes. etc.
I agree with you; it would appear better to either replace with a toggle switch
of some sort - to eliminate the Solenoid pull in / hold in current, or have some
other form of low power dissipation device to eliminate the current draw.
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433937#433937
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