Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:48 AM - Getting ready to paint (Charles N. Campbell)
2. 06:57 AM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Jim Boyer)
3. 07:27 AM - Re: test, let me know if this comes through (AircamperN11MS)
4. 07:29 AM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Steven Dortch)
5. 08:18 AM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Charles N. Campbell)
6. 08:59 AM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Steven Dortch)
7. 09:03 AM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Gary Boothe)
8. 12:43 PM - airports enroute (Douwe Blumberg)
9. 01:25 PM - Nice photos (Bill Church)
10. 01:37 PM - Re: Nice photos (AircamperN11MS)
11. 01:56 PM - Re: Nice photos (Bill Church)
12. 02:07 PM - Re: Nice photos (AircamperN11MS)
13. 02:43 PM - Re: Re: Nice photos (Steven Dortch)
14. 05:05 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (shad bell)
15. 07:25 PM - Re: Corvair prop? (at7000ft)
16. 08:11 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Ray Krause)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Getting ready to paint |
OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house
paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric
being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using
Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap
solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you
use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what
to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would
appreciate any help. Chuck
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Hi Chuck,
I painted my fuselage last week using the Stewart System and yes I first wa
shed the fabric with their cleaning solution which is a mile soap solution.
However you then rinse the fabric with a clean unused terrycloth towel usi
ng plain ( I used distilled water) water.
=C2-
The purpose of the water is to wet the fibers of the cloth so the primer ca
n better penetrate the fabric to make the mechanical bond with the fabric.
The soap solution is to clean off any dirt, dust, finger prints, etc. so ag
ain the primer will better adhere to the fabric.
Cheers,
Jim B.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: test, let me know if this comes through |
You're welcome.
Cheers,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445537#445537
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So I
did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am
not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used
in the manufacturing process.
Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20
foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and get
a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer
fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.
Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.
Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint
another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I
actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and
did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running
around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP
paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and
would not sand unless there is a flaw.
I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan
blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared
a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung
a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his
camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered
will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,
and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.
So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing
and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his
garage he did not mind.
I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches
wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still
have a bunch left over.
Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures.
I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaper
worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to
creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the
brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and
used it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new
masking tape was for sharp edges.
I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread out
better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
Enjoy painting, I did.
Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
Steve D.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell <
charlescampbell1924@gmail.com> wrote:
> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house
> paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric
> being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using
> Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap
> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you
> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what
> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would
> appreciate any help. Chuck
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush for
the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart video
the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats.
I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog
videos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high
shine on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of sandpaper
-- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss
look which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if
they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand your finish?
Chuck
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So
> I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am
> not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used
> in the manufacturing process.
>
> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20
> foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
>
> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and
> get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer
> fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.
> Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.
>
> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint
> another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I
> actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and
> did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running
> around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
>
> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
>
> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP
> paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and
> would not sand unless there is a flaw.
>
> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan
> blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared
> a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung
> a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his
> camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered
> will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,
> and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.
> So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing
> and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his
> garage he did not mind.
>
> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches
> wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still
> have a bunch left over.
>
> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures.
> I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaper
> worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to
> creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the
> brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and
> used it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new
> masking tape was for sharp edges.
>
> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread out
> better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
>
> Enjoy painting, I did.
>
> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
> Steve D.
>
> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell <
> charlescampbell1924@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex
>> house paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the
>> fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was
>> using Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap
>> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you
>> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what
>> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would
>> appreciate any help. Chuck
>>
>> *
>>
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Blue Skies,
> Steve D
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Yes, I sanded my finish. I would not do it again if I used a spray rig. But
if I rollered it, I would sand, it is not hard. watch malcom's videos.
The Glossier the paint the more shiny and the more flaws will show. I did
Semi Gloss, Kind of shiny but my bad technique can still be seen. When I
sanded it to took the gloss off. I think next time I will spray the plane
with semi Gloss and not sand. Or I may go Satin and not floss if it is a
"military" paint job.
I did find out, from a buddy who painted his plane with rollers, that you
cannot use harbor freight sponge rollers. He said a denser foam worked well
for his. He did a neat WWI German camouflage paint job. I think his is
Satin and looks great.
There are several planes at my home airport painted with latex. One looks
like Imron. Wow it is sharp. One looks very dull. Looks like it is flat
paint put on with cheap brushes. But they are all painted and they all fly
(But mine.)
Blue Skies,
Steve D
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell <
charlescampbell1924@gmail.com> wrote:
> Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush
> for the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart
> video the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish
> coats. I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The
> Weiner Dog videos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a
> very high shine on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of
> sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a
> high gloss look which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I
> don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand
> your finish? Chuck
>
> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So
>> I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am
>> not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used
>> in the manufacturing process.
>>
>> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20
>> foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
>>
>> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and
>> get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer
>> fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave.
>> Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster.
>>
>> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint
>> another paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I
>> actually had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and
>> did so without getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running
>> around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
>>
>> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
>>
>> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP
>> paint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and
>> would not sand unless there is a flaw.
>>
>> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan
>> blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared
>> a 1930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung
>> a blue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his
>> camping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered
>> will get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled,
>> and when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio.
>> So at that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing
>> and sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his
>> garage he did not mind.
>>
>> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches
>> wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still
>> have a bunch left over.
>>
>> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning
>> mixtures. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that
>> were cheaper worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the
>> paint to creep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't
>> remember the brands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a
>> cardboard box and used it again to tape covers over various items not to be
>> painted. new masking tape was for sharp edges.
>>
>> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread
>> out better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
>>
>> Enjoy painting, I did.
>>
>> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
>> Steve D.
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell <
>> charlescampbell1924@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex
>>> house paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the
>>> fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was
>>> using Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap
>>> solution before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you
>>> use. I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what
>>> to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would
>>> appreciate any help. Chuck
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Blue Skies,
>> Steve D
>>
>> *
>>
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Charles,
I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, usin
g their cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer c
oats (KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with a c
rossed-stroke brush look.
My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar application
, except that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, primer
and finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the paint
.
Gary Boothe
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell <charlescampbell1924@gmail
.com> wrote:
>
> Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush fo
r the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart vide
o the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats.
I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog v
ideos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high shin
e on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of sandpaper -- lik
e 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss look w
hich I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if they ev
en had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand your finish? Chuck
>
>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com
> wrote:
>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So
I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am
not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used i
n the manufacturing process.
>>
>> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20
foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
>>
>> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and g
et a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer f
luid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave. B
oth worked, Washer fluid dries faster.
>>
>> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint a
nother paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actuall
y had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and did so wit
hout getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running around. When he g
ot into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
>>
>> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
>>
>> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP p
aint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and w
ould not sand unless there is a flaw.
>>
>> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan bl
owing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared a 1
930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung a b
lue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his cam
ping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered will g
et a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and wh
en I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So at t
hat point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and suc
king. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his garage h
e did not mind.
>>
>> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches w
ide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still have
a bunch left over.
>>
>> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures
. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheape
r worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to cr
eep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the br
ands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and us
ed it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new masking
tape was for sharp edges.
>>
>> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread ou
t better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
>>
>> Enjoy painting, I did.
>>
>> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
>> Steve D.
>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell <charlescampbell1924
@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex hou
se paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabri
c being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using
Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap solutio
n before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you use. I d
on't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what to use -- i
f any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would appreciate any he
lp. Chuck
>>>
>>>
>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Blue Skies,
>> Steve D
>>
>>
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | airports enroute |
Hey,
If I fly to Blakesburg this year, any suggestions on good places to find
fuel and possibly grass runways?? I'd be heading from the Cincinnati area
to Blakesburg IA.
Douwe
Message 9
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Saw a couple of nice shots of Douwe's Piet on Flickr.
They've been manipulated to make them look antique-y. They look pretty cool to
me.
https://flic.kr/p/vWxNfx
https://flic.kr/p/v2fwca
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445555#445555
Message 10
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I love them. The wrist watch in the second photo is the only give away to me that
it is a more recent Pic. Whoever did that did a great job.
Kudos,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445556#445556
Message 11
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Scott,
More recent than what? The 1800s?
Wristwatches have been around for longer than the Piet.
:)
BC
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Message 12
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Bill,
I guess you're right. In my mind I see a pocket watch. Probably since I haven't
been around since the 1800's. Maybe a round wrist watch would play better
in my young mid-fifties head.
I guess I need to fly for 30 more minutes for forgiveness.
P.S. I do have a pocket watch hanging on my instrument panel. I tried a sun dial
but I couldn't hold the plane steady enough to use it. :)
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
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Message 13
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Some companies will not hire an old phart like m, who wears a wristwatch.
It is an indication that they are not hip cats and use their smartphone for
everything.
Blue Skies,
Steve Hip cat D
On Aug 3, 2015 3:58 PM, "Bill Church" <billspiet@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> billspiet@sympatico.ca>
>
> Scott,
> More recent than what? The 1800s?
> Wristwatches have been around for longer than the Piet.
>
> :)
>
> BC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445557#445557
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
I tried to send an email earlier about latex, i'll try again.=C2- NX92GB
was brushed on Sears Wetherbeater Ultra exterior Latex paint.=C2- Brushed
with 4 inch foam brushes, 90 degree brush strokes.=C2- If I remember cor
rectly we cleaned the fabric with Dawn Dishwashing detergent and warm water
.=C2- The primer coat was just white latex paint of the same brand.=C2-
We have about 400 hrs and 9 years on her now and it holds up well, just a
little faded. The glue was the cecobond (now eco-bond) and we did not thin
and seal the fabric with the ceco bond, other than glue seams and the tapes
.=C2- one cool trick dad taught me about masking trim lines is to mask th
e trim off, then brush one coat of the base color where your trim line will
be.=C2- This way if the 1st coat (in our case blue) bleeds under the tap
e it is the same color as whats already on there.=C2- Then brush on the t
rim colors.=C2- The first coat seals the edge of the tape and leaves a cr
isp line.=C2- I have had to patch the wing when a piece of aluminum gutte
r fell on it in the hangar a few years ago.=C2- It was pretty easy, MEK (
Lacquer thinner might work to) to strip repair area, clean with Dawn and wa
rm water, and glue the patch, Iron down the edge and paint to match (not pe
rfect match but has faded to same color after 3 years).
Have fun, nontoxic and not much clean up if brushed.
Shad
On Monday, August 3, 2015 12:12 PM, Gary Boothe <gboothe5@comcast.net>
wrote:
Charles,
I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, usi
ng their cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer
coats (KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with
a crossed-stroke brush look.
My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar applicatio
n, except that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, prim
er and finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the pa
int.
Gary Boothe
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell <charlescampbell1924@gmail.
com> wrote:
Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush.=C2- Think I'll use the brus
h for the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart
video the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish
coats.=C2- I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth.=C2
- The Weiner Dog videos show using a foam roller.=C2- Of course he was
going for a very high shine on his surfaces so he used about four different
levels of sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500.
=C2- He got a high gloss look which I'm not going for.=C2- I want a mor
e 1920's look.=C2- I don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper back
then.=C2- Did you sand your finish?=C2- Chuck
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
wrote:
Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So I
did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but=C2-
I am not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are u
sed in the manufacturing process. =C2-Here is some free advice, (and wort
h every Penny) from a guy who did a 20 foot paint job. (It looks great 20 f
eet away.)=C2-The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through t
he weave and get a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with wind
shield washer fluid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" i
nto the weave. Both worked, Washer fluid dries faster. =C2-Painting with
Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint another paint sch
eme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actually had to=C2-p
aint over=C2-some=C2-decorative markings=C2-and repaint=C2-them and
did so without getting stressed. I had a=C2-2 year old grandson running
around. When he got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up. =C2
-Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?=C2-I could not get it to
look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun made it easy
to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and would not sand unless
there is a flaw. =C2-I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clo
thes and had a fan blowing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of th
e garage. I shared a 1930s garage with=C2-my neighbor. There was a=C2-c
hickenwire "wall",=C2-so I =C2-hung a blue tarp up between my side and
his and ran the fan. I think some of his camping stuff now has a slight yel
low haze to it. Everything not covered will get a light coat on it if you s
pray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and when I was ready to paint it th
e pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So=C2-at that point I did make a
paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and sucking. My neighbor=C2
-was so excited that I was painting a plane in his garage he did not mind
.=C2-I bought a roll of=C2-masking paper at the auto paint shop about 2
0 inches wide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I
still have a bunch left over.=C2-Practice with several types of masking
tape and various thinning mixtures. I found that some tapes did not do what
they said. Others that were cheaper worked great. One that said it gave a
"Sharp edge" allowed the paint to creep under it Anouther made a super shar
p line. Sorry I don't remember the brands. Also I saved old masking tape by
sticking it to a cardboard box and used it again to tape covers over=C2-
various items not to be painted. new masking tape was for sharp edges.=C2
-=C2-I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and sp
read out better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
=C2-=C2-Enjoy painting, I did. =C2-Blue (or what ever you paint them)
Skies,Steve D.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell <charlescampbell1924@gm
ail.com> wrote:
OK!=C2- I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex h
ouse paint.=C2- The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of t
he fabric being washed with a soap solution before painting.=C2- Of cours
e he was using Stewart system paints.=C2- Did any of you clean the fabric
with a soap solution before the primer paint was applied?=C2- If so, wha
t method did you use.=C2- I don't have any of the Stewart soap solution a
nd am wondering what to use -- if any or what to do if soap solution is not
used.=C2- I would appreciate any help.=C2- Chuck
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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npol-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Corvair prop? |
Larry Vetter wrote:
> A question for you Corvair flyers. What Dia. and pitch props are you using and
what kind of static, or takeoff RPM are you getting. I know a lot of you are
using the WW conversion. Mine is the BP conversion so the fan is still on it.
Not sure if that makes a lot of difference or not....So, have at it, and thank
you in advance.
> Larry
Have a WW 2700 conversion with a 66x30 Tennessee . Get 2850 static and 3000 full
throttle level flight. Took off this morning (East of Colorado Springs CO) at
8500 ft DA on the runway and got almost 500 fpm at 60 mph.
Rick H
--------
Rick Holland
NX6819Z
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
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