Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:19 AM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Charles N. Campbell)
2. 07:18 AM - Pictures (Jim Brewer)
3. 10:24 AM - Re: email test (Gerrit-Jan Kaal)
4. 12:25 PM - Re: Pictures (namrednos)
5. 01:10 PM - Re: email test (Charles N. Campbell)
6. 02:18 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Ray Krause)
7. 02:23 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Ray Krause)
8. 03:15 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (gliderx5@comcast.net)
9. 03:29 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Scott Knowlton)
10. 03:32 PM - Re: Pictures (tools)
11. 04:33 PM - Heat (Rich's Comcast)
12. 04:58 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (Steven Dortch)
13. 04:59 PM - Re: Heat (tools)
14. 05:18 PM - Re: Heat (Jack Philips)
15. 05:29 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (gliderx5@comcast.net)
16. 05:39 PM - Re: Getting ready to paint (gliderx5@comcast.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Ray, there was no message. Chuck
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:58 PM, Ray Krause <raykrause@frontiernet.net>
wrote:
>
>
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Did anyone on the list who attended AirVenture 2015 take any pictures of
the naked Piet in the homebuilders hanger? Would you share them with me
and the list? I forgot to take my camera when I was going to get
pictures.
Two other things: If I were to buy the wood to build a Piet from a
lumber yard how much will it take and what sizes should I purchase? I
understand there will be wood that I cannot use. That is true of when
you build furniture. Any sources of spruce or fir you could recommend
would be appreciated. I am in NC.
Does anyone have a single copy (any issue) of the newsletter they could
send me in .pdf ? I just want to "sample" the newsletter.
Message 3
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PT09PT0
Message 4
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Jim, see attached material list. I purchased Spruce from both Aircraft Spruce and
Wicks Aircraft. Everything can be sent UPS except the longerons and wing spars.
For plywood I purchased Marine grade from a local boat shop (Homestead).
Hope this helps
Scott
--------
Scott
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445581#445581
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wood_bill_of_materials_703.pdf
Message 5
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Yes, Douwe, you're coming thru loud and clear. Why do you wonder?Chuck
On Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 1:24 PM, Gerrit-Jan Kaal <gjhkaal@gmail.com> wrote:
> getting what? :D
> ------------------------------
> From: Douwe Blumberg
> Sent: 7/29/2015 19:16
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: email test
>
> Anybody getting this?
>
>
> Douwe
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
You guys might know that I'm a bit of a "Gloss" nut, but I receintly painted a
test panel (after priming) with 3 sprayed coats of semi-gloss (Lowes stuff), sanded
lightly with 2000 grit wet to remove dust and such, and then waxed. The
result is a nice smooth, military look. The semi-gloss seemed to cover quicker
than the high gloss, thus only 3 coats needed. Of course it was a different brand
too.
I have not been washing the bare fabric, but it's probably a good idea. And I've
switched from EkoBond to 3M FastBond Latex Contact Adhesive.
Malcolm Morrison
www.wienerdogaero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, August 3, 2015 12:02:59 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Charles,
I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, using their
cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer coats
(KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with a crossed-stroke
brush look.
My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar application, except
that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, primer and
finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the paint.
Gary Boothe
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell < charlescampbell1924@gmail.com
> wrote:
Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush for the
primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart video the painter
used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats. I can't use
a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog videos show using
a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high shine on his surfaces
so he used about four different levels of sandpaper -- like 600 grit, then 1000,
then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss look which I'm not going for.
I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if they even had 1500 grit sandpaper
back then. Did you sand your finish? Chuck
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch < steven.d.dortch@gmail.com > wrote:
<blockquote>
Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So I did
not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am not going
to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used in the manufacturing
process.
Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20 foot
paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and get a mechanical
grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer fluid. I
also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave. Both worked,
Washer fluid dries faster.
Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint another
paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actually had to
paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and did so without getting
stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running around. When he got into the
paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP paint
gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and would not
sand unless there is a flaw.
I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan blowing
gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared a 1930s garage
with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung a blue tarp up
between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his camping stuff now
has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered will get a light coat
on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and when I was ready to
paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So at that point I did make
a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and sucking. My neighbor was
so excited that I was painting a plane in his garage he did not mind.
I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches wide. Nice
to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still have a bunch
left over.
Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures. I found
that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaper worked
great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to creep under
it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the brands. Also I
saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and used it again to
tape covers over various items not to be painted. new masking tape was for sharp
edges.
I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread out better,
but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
Enjoy painting, I did.
Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
Steve D.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell < charlescampbell1924@gmail.com
> wrote:
<blockquote>
OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house paint.
The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric being washed
with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using Stewart system
paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap solution before the primer
paint was applied? If so, what method did you use. I don't have any of the
Stewart soap solution and am wondering what to use -- if any or what to do if
soap solution is not used. I would appreciate any help. Chuck
" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List tp:// forums.matronics.com _blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
</blockquote>
D============================================
npol-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
D============================================
//forums.matronics.com
D============================================
ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
D=============================================
</blockquote>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Malcolm. Thanks for the continued awesome technical research and practicums
. You are a great resource for those of us who simply want to benefit from y
our trials and errors. Can you provide the product number of the 3M Latex Fa
stbond Adhesive?
Scott Knowlton
Fuselage/tail group/centre section built.. Wing assembly to go....
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 4, 2015, at 6:18 PM, gliderx5@comcast.net wrote:
>
> You guys might know that I'm a bit of a "Gloss" nut, but I receintly paint
ed a test panel (after priming) with 3 sprayed coats of semi-gloss (Lowes st
uff), sanded lightly with 2000 grit wet to remove dust and such, and then wa
xed. The result is a nice smooth, military look. The semi-gloss seemed to co
ver quicker than the high gloss, thus only 3 coats needed. Of course it was a
different brand too.
>
> I have not been washing the bare fabric, but it's probably a good idea. An
d I've switched from EkoBond to 3M FastBond Latex Contact Adhesive.
>
> Malcolm Morrison
> www.wienerdogaero.com
>
>
> From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5@comcast.net>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, August 3, 2015 12:02:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
>
> Charles,
>
> I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, us
ing their cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer
coats (KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with a
crossed-stroke brush look.
>
> My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar applicati
on, except that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, prim
er and finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the pai
nt.
>
> Gary Boothe
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell <charlescampbell1924@gmail
.com> wrote:
>
> Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush fo
r the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart vide
o the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats.
I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog v
ideos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high shin
e on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of sandpaper -- lik
e 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss look w
hich I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if they ev
en had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand your finish? Chuck
>
>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com
> wrote:
>> Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So
I did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am
not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used i
n the manufacturing process.
>>
>> Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20
foot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
>>
>> The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and g
et a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer f
luid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave. B
oth worked, Washer fluid dries faster.
>>
>> Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint a
nother paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actuall
y had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and did so wit
hout getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running around. When he g
ot into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
>>
>> Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
>>
>> I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP p
aint gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and w
ould not sand unless there is a flaw.
>>
>> I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan bl
owing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared a 1
930s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung a b
lue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his cam
ping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered will g
et a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and wh
en I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So at t
hat point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and suc
king. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his garage h
e did not mind.
>>
>> I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches w
ide. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still have
a bunch left over.
>>
>> Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures
. I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheape
r worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to cr
eep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the br
ands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and us
ed it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new masking
tape was for sharp edges.
>>
>> I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread ou
t better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
>>
>> Enjoy painting, I did.
>>
>> Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
>> Steve D.
>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell <charlescampbell1924
@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex hou
se paint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabri
c being washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using
Stewart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap solutio
n before the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you use. I d
on't have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what to use -- i
f any or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would appreciate any he
lp. Chuck
>>>
>>>
>>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Blue Skies,
>> Steve D
>>
>>
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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> npol-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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>
>
>
> " target="_blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pi
etenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ta-mce-href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _blank" data-mce-href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www
.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
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>
Message 10
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What do you want pics of specifically. I might be able to find it and get pics
for you as I live locally. Also, there is a bare bones piet in the Piet hangar
at pioneer field in the museum I can easily get to.
Do you drive to airventure? If so, a quick stop at mccormicks lumber in Madison
wi can solve most if not all of your spruce wood needs. Also, if you buy lumber
from there, I can get it to chatt tn within a few months for free if that
helps.
Also, I host a get together near chatt every late February. If you come to that,
a field trip to aircraft spruce, a tad over two hours from chatt, can get you
lumber and plywood from there sans shipping.
Food for thought.
Tools, 423 580 1383
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445595#445595
Message 11
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Hey list,
I am a stalker , finishing up my 601XL and looking at the Piet for a next man cave
project.
I noticed an image of some winter flights in a Piet with continental engine with
exhaust stacks.
If you have stacks, what do you use for heat?
Just curious
P.S. If your near Murfreesboro/Middle TN and would like to share your Piet, I would
love to seat it!
Rich Simmons
Murfreesboro, Tn
Hangared at KMBT
601XL-B 2 months out
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Ray, you are shooting blanks.
Steve D
On Aug 4, 2015 4:33 PM, "Ray Krause" <raykrause@frontiernet.net> wrote:
>
>
Message 13
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Mine is based just north of 9a5, Lafayette ga. Welcome to come check it out anytime.
The best you're gonna do for heat is good technical wear and a face mask!
We flew ours, my son and I, last winter in chickamauga in about five inches
of snow and forth degree weather!
Tools
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=445598#445598
Message 14
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I don't have short stacks, but two 2-into-1 manifolds, with built in heat
muffs. One of the heat muffs is for carb heat, the other for cabin heat. I
can cover my front cockpit and running the heater will at least keep my feet
warm. The limiting factor for flying is wind on the face. With a wool
balaclava covering my face I have flown for nearly 2 hours in 35 degree
weather.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rich's
Comcast
Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2015 7:31 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Heat
--> < <mailto:4rcsimmons@comcast.net> 4rcsimmons@comcast.net>
Hey list,
I am a stalker , finishing up my 601XL and looking at the Piet for a next
man cave project.
I noticed an image of some winter flights in a Piet with continental engine
with exhaust stacks.
If you have stacks, what do you use for heat?
Just curious
P.S. If your near Murfreesboro/Middle TN and would like to share your Piet,
I would love to seat it!
Rich Simmons
Murfreesboro, Tn
Hangared at KMBT
601XL-B 2 months out
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Getting ready to paint |
I tried to attach a picture of the glue, but everytime I try to attach a pi
cture the email gets posted with no content :-(
3M Fastbond 30NF Contact Adhesive Green, 1 Qt Water-Dispersed High-Strength
Contact Adhesive. Has High Coverage, a Long Bonding Range, and good Heat R
esistance. Use to Bond Foamed Plastics, Plastic Laminate, Wood, Plywood and
Wood Veneer. Non-flammable in the wet state. Model # 30NF Features: Long b
onding range with high immediate bond strength Economical high coverage Mee
ts MILA24179A, Type I, GREENGUARD Certified General industrial Bonding, adh
ering, gluing, joining and attaching Item Dimensions: 2.2" L x 5.2" W x 7.6
" H
It comes in white also, but use the green. You can't see where you have glu
ed with the white.
Malcolm Morrison
www.wienerdogaero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Knowlton" <flyingscott_k@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2015 6:28:56 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Malcolm. Thanks for the continued awesome technical research and practicums
. You are a great resource for those of us who simply want to benefit from
your trials and errors. Can you provide the product number of the 3M Latex
Fastbond Adhesive?
Scott Knowlton
Fuselage/tail group/centre section built.. Wing assembly to go....
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 4, 2015, at 6:18 PM, gliderx5@comcast.net wrote:
You guys might know that I'm a bit of a "Gloss" nut, but I receintly painte
d a test panel (after priming) with 3 sprayed coats of semi-gloss (Lowes st
uff), sanded lightly with 2000 grit wet to remove dust and such, and then w
axed. The result is a nice smooth, military look. The semi-gloss seemed to
cover quicker than the high gloss, thus only 3 coats needed. Of course it w
as a different brand too.
I have not been washing the bare fabric, but it's probably a good idea. And
I've switched from EkoBond to 3M FastBond Latex Contact Adhesive.
Malcolm Morrison
www.wienerdogaero.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Boothe" < gboothe5@comcast.net >
Sent: Monday, August 3, 2015 12:02:59 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Getting ready to paint
Charles,
I used Kelly Moore over EcoBond and washed the fabric as they describe, usi
ng their cleaning solution. My applications were done by rolling the primer
coats (KM primer), and using a foam brush for color coats, leaving it with
a crossed-stroke brush look.
My upcoming project is a Baby Ace, where I'll be doing a similar applicatio
n, except that I'll wash the fabric with 'house wash' from Home Depot, prim
er and finish as described by Wiener Dog Aero, sanding and polishing the pa
int.
Gary Boothe
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 3, 2015, at 8:17 AM, Charles N. Campbell < charlescampbell1924@gmail
.com > wrote:
<blockquote>
Steve, I was going to use a foam paint brush. Think I'll use the brush for
the primer and use a foam roller for the finish coats. In the Stewart video
the painter used a foam brush for the primer and sprayed the finish coats.
I can't use a sprayer because I don't have a spray booth. The Weiner Dog v
ideos show using a foam roller. Of course he was going for a very high shin
e on his surfaces so he used about four different levels of sandpaper -- li
ke 600 grit, then 1000, then 1200, and then 1500. He got a high gloss look
which I'm not going for. I want a more 1920's look. I don't know if they ev
en had 1500 grit sandpaper back then. Did you sand your finish? Chuck
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 10:28 AM, Steven Dortch < steven.d.dortch@gmail.com
> wrote:
<blockquote>
Uh, Chuck, I did not see anyone wash the materiel on the videos I saw, So I
did not wash it myself. That does not mean it should not be done but I am
not going to worry about it. I think it has to do with oils that are used i
n the manufacturing process.
Here is some free advice, (and worth every Penny) from a guy who did a 20 f
oot paint job. (It looks great 20 feet away.)
The initial Prime is done to push the latex paint through the weave and get
a mechanical grip on the fabric. So I thinned it with windshield washer fl
uid. I also tried thinning with water to get it to "Push" into the weave. B
oth worked, Washer fluid dries faster.
Painting with Latex is so much easier that I will not hesitate to paint ano
ther paint scheme when this needs redoing. It is just that easy. I actually
had to paint over some decorative markings and repaint them and did so wit
hout getting stressed. I had a 2 year old grandson running around. When he
got into the paint it was a nonevent. Just wash him up.
Are you going to paint with rollers or spray?
I could not get it to look good with rollers, but My Harbor Freight HVLP pa
int gun made it easy to spray. If I did it again I would simply spray and w
ould not sand unless there is a flaw.
I just wore a paper mask and safety glasses, old clothes and had a fan blow
ing gently to keep the hanging mist moving out of the garage. I shared a 19
30s garage with my neighbor. There was a chickenwire "wall", so I hung a bl
ue tarp up between my side and his and ran the fan. I think some of his cam
ping stuff now has a slight yellow haze to it. Everything not covered will
get a light coat on it if you spray. My fuselage was mostly assembled, and
when I was ready to paint it the pollen was pretty bad in San Antonio. So a
t that point I did make a paint booth with plastic and put fans pushing and
sucking. My neighbor was so excited that I was painting a plane in his gar
age he did not mind.
I bought a roll of masking paper at the auto paint shop about 20 inches wid
e. Nice to know that paint won't go through it. about $16 and I still have
a bunch left over.
Practice with several types of masking tape and various thinning mixtures.
I found that some tapes did not do what they said. Others that were cheaper
worked great. One that said it gave a "Sharp edge" allowed the paint to cr
eep under it Anouther made a super sharp line. Sorry I don't remember the b
rands. Also I saved old masking tape by sticking it to a cardboard box and
used it again to tape covers over various items not to be painted. new mask
ing tape was for sharp edges.
I used flotrol which is supposed to make the paint lay down and spread out
better, but I am not sure it made a difference with the spray rig.
Enjoy painting, I did.
Blue (or what ever you paint them) Skies,
Steve D.
On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:47 AM, Charles N. Campbell < charlescampbell1924@g
mail.com > wrote:
<blockquote>
OK! I have a question for someone who has painted a Piet with latex house p
aint. The Stewart system video shows the unpainted surface of the fabric be
ing washed with a soap solution before painting. Of course he was using Ste
wart system paints. Did any of you clean the fabric with a soap solution be
fore the primer paint was applied? If so, what method did you use. I don't
have any of the Stewart soap solution and am wondering what to use -- if an
y or what to do if soap solution is not used. I would appreciate any help.
Chuck
" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List tp:/
/ forums.matronics.com _blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Blue Skies,
Steve D
" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List tp:/
/forums.matronics.com
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