Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:22 AM - Re: I Re-built My Panel (womenfly2)
2. 05:38 AM - Re: Reporting in (Chris Rusch)
3. 12:05 PM - Re: I Re-built My Panel (AircamperN11MS)
4. 04:39 PM - Re: best wood for capstrips (Andy Garrett)
5. 06:11 PM - Re: best wood for capstrips (jarheadpilot82)
6. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Reporting in (Rick Schreiber)
7. 06:25 PM - Re: Re: Reporting in (Gary Boothe)
8. 07:43 PM - Re: best wood for capstrips (tools)
9. 09:41 PM - Re: best wood for capstrips (taildrags)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: I Re-built My Panel |
... better readability.
[IMG]https://sites.google.com/site/pietenpolplanpackages/pietenpol-plan-packages/suppemental-plan-packages/AirSpeed%20Pic.JPG?attredirects=0[/IMG]
WF2
--------
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| Subject: | Re: Reporting in |
HI Rick,
Your plane looks awesome!! What did your final weight come in at?
--------
NX321LR
Now test flying!!
Mitsubishi Powered
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| Subject: | Re: I Re-built My Panel |
Gary,
Very nice. :)
Looks a lot familiar to me.
Cheers,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Brodhead in 1996
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: best wood for capstrips |
Since 41-13 was written many decades ago, are there any updates?
Specifically, the chart indicates a difficulty in gluing with white cedar. Does
it glue better with modern epoxies?
Any experiences?
Cedar is far more available around these parts.
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Andy Garrett
'General Purpose Creative Dude'
Haysville, Kansas
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: best wood for capstrips |
Last revision is dated 1998, not many decades ago. Not to say there aren't needed
changes, but it is not as old as you imply.
--------
Semper Fi,
Terry Hand
Athens, GA
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Attachments:
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Reporting in |
On 9/22/2015 7:37 AM, Chris Rusch wrote:
>
> HI Rick,
>
> Your plane looks awesome!! What did your final weight come in at?
>
> --------
> NX321LR
> Now test flying!!
> Mitsubishi Powered
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447336#447336
>
>
Thanks Chris.
My final weight was 758# . I was hoping for a lighter weight, but I do
have the straight axle gear, 3 piece wing, starter and a heavier paint
color. By that I mean that I had to paint the Piet white to hiding, then
paint it yellow. That more or less doubles the total paint weight.
Rick Schreiber
NX478RS
First test flight planed Saturday 9/26/15
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Reporting in |
Rick,
You are very close to my weight...sure looking forward to your first flight report...
Gary
NX308MB
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 22, 2015, at 6:12 PM, Rick Schreiber <lmforge@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>> On 9/22/2015 7:37 AM, Chris Rusch wrote:
>>
>> HI Rick,
>>
>> Your plane looks awesome!! What did your final weight come in at?
>>
>> --------
>> NX321LR
>> Now test flying!!
>> Mitsubishi Powered
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447336#447336
> Thanks Chris.
> My final weight was 758# . I was hoping for a lighter weight, but I do have the
straight axle gear, 3 piece wing, starter and a heavier paint color. By that
I mean that I had to paint the Piet white to hiding, then paint it yellow. That
more or less doubles the total paint weight.
> Rick Schreiber
> NX478RS
> First test flight planed Saturday 9/26/15
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: best wood for capstrips |
I glue cedar fairly regularly and have not had any problems with using even aliphatic
resins (yellow glues). Certainly can't imagine any modern epoxies having
any problems.
I do not have experience using resorcinol or casein glue with cedar.
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: best wood for capstrips |
This reply is based on my experience working with Douglas fir, of which there is
a LOT in Oregon!!! It is readily available in all grades, is affordable (even
free, if you look in the right places), and is definitely suitable for building
airplanes out of. Beefy sections like wing spars and 1x1" longerons are
easy to work with but rib capstrips will put it (and you) to the test due to the
slenderness and small dimensions of the pieces. DF is more brittle than spruce
and depending on how the grain is oriented relative to the bend you are trying
to put into it, you can snap it easier than spruce. Nailing or stapling
into it (such as when attaching gussets) is far more likely to split DF than
spruce if you nail or staple too close to the edge, and even if you don't hug
the edge it likes to split anyway. Thin, short wire staples into DF are best
for holding gussets in place while they glue. The other thing about Doug fir
is that the grain lines are harder than the wood between the lines. When you
drill or nail parallel to a grain line (not through it), your drill bit or nail
or staple will want to follow the grain line away from the center that you're
trying to drill or nail. It's a bit fussy but it makes up for its shortcoming
by being affordable, strong, and -to my nose, at least- pleasantly aromatic,
where spruce has almost no smell at all.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
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