Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:38 AM - Shock cords (Donald A Mosher)
2. 11:00 AM - Pilot seat back angle (Donald A Mosher)
3. 11:31 AM - Re: Pilot seat back angle (Steven Dortch)
4. 12:25 PM - Re: Pilot seat back angle (dgaldrich)
5. 01:23 PM - Re: Fuse choices (Dave'sPiet)
6. 01:42 PM - Re: Starting my build, but need to know which fuselage to build! (Dave'sPiet)
7. 03:08 PM - Re: Shock cords (Amsafetyc)
8. 07:56 PM - Re: Starting my build, but need to know which fuselage to build! (taildrags)
Message 1
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andrea (andrea@modelberg.it) speaking about wooden landing gear and shock
cords asked "how many loops and what cross section are you guys using?"
That info was not included in the Air Camper plans
in the 1932 Flying Manual.
However Bernard wrote on page 34 of the 1933 issue of the Flying Manual,
the one detailing building of the Sky Scout - "we had better put on some
safety device to keep the ship from dropping to the ground if the shock
cord breaks, since it seems that everybody has trouble wrapping shock cord.
Here is the method we use: First, cut a piece of leather to fit around the
bottom of the landing gear vee, and lace it on with lace leather. Now take
6 ft. of 1/2" shock cord and have someone hold it about half way up on the
outside of the front landing gear strut. Take the other end and pass it
under the landing gear vee, over the axle, under the landing gear, over the
axle, under the vee on the inside of the first wrap, over the axle on the
outside of the first wrap and under the vee on the inside of the last wrap
until you have three wraps pulled quite tight."
"The cord should be just long enough to make a good square knot and to
permit taping of the ends. This method makes each wrap about the same
length and you will not have any trouble with your shock cord cutting. The
landing gear should give not over one inch with a full load in the ship,
but neither should it be any tighter."
I know that this method is in the Sky Scout construction write up, but
Bernard advised people to have both the 1932 and the 1933 Flying Manuals to
cover everything.
The 1933 Flying Manual also says on page 30: "I wish to call attention to
the brace right back of the bottom beam. This was changed from the plans of
the Air Camper, and I advise all of you who have not built up your wing
ribs to build them this way." So the Air Camper ribs in the 1934 Flying
Manual had an erroneous brace position shown which was corrected in the
1933 Sky Scout Flying Manual.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Pilot seat back angle |
Douwe brought up the fact that a relatively straight seat back can become
uncomfortable on a longer flight. Standard furniture design uses 10
degrees to 15 degrees for chairs that are built for comfort. Many
homebuilt pilot seats use 16 degrees. Uncle Tony says that you should
figure on 6" of seat tilt back but doesn't tell us how high the seat back
may be. Good design points out that when the seat back is tilted back, the
seat bottom itself should be similarly tilted or it will tend to slide your
butt forward.
One pilot, when asked how long a cross country trip is in a Piet, muttered
"xxxiftxx miles." "Fifty miles?" "No, fifteen miles."
Doc
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot seat back angle |
Tilting the seat back will also place your eyes further from the
instruments. Just sitting in my Piet and the instruments are very close to
me. I will have to wear readers when I fly!
Steve D
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Pilot seat back angle |
The recent fuselages we have built at Sun N Fun (starting with Dick Navratils Rotec
powered one) simply moved the top of the back rearward 4 inches.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453043#453043
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse choices |
I believe the BHP plans make note of adding a very small amount of dihedral (1"
at each tip?), for aesthetic purposes because the wing looks as though it is
drooping at the ends even when it is perfectly flat.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453045#453045
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Starting my build, but need to know which fuselage |
to build!
Chris from Westcoastpiet knows a few builders with Piet's in my area, so I'm hoping
to try out a few cockpits very soon.
Kerri-Ann got back to me about her door mod plans- they can be used on different
fuselages with only minor changes to a couple of dimensions. That was very good
news.
I was looking at the BHP drawings for the elevator controls and do not understand
the reason for the bell crank/ jackshaft setup behind the pilot- why not run
the cables from the stick all the way back to the tail? Seems like more weight
in the tail, more complexity, and more things to go wrong. I read through the
Flying & Glider Manuals as well- no reference as to why another shaft and bell
crank is installed to run the elevator cables. Any ideas? I would think that
with proper pulley size & positioning, a few fairleads should be able to handle
the chore of routing the cables from the pilot station to the control horns
on the elevator. Very curious.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453046#453046
Message 7
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Doc
You're amazing!
Looking forward to seeing you this July
John Recine
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 21, 2016, at 1:37 PM, Donald A Mosher <thepietshop@gmail.com> wrote
:
>
> andrea (andrea@modelberg.it) speaking about wooden landing gear and shock c
ords asked "how many loops and what cross section are you guys using?" That
info was not included in the Air Camper plans
> in the 1932 Flying Manual.
>
> However Bernard wrote on page 34 of the 1933 issue of the Flying Manual, t
he one detailing building of the Sky Scout - "we had better put on some safe
ty device to keep the ship from dropping to the ground if the shock cord bre
aks, since it seems that everybody has trouble wrapping shock cord. Here is t
he method we use: First, cut a piece of leather to fit around the bottom of t
he landing gear vee, and lace it on with lace leather. Now take 6 ft. of 1/2
" shock cord and have someone hold it about half way up on the outside of th
e front landing gear strut. Take the other end and pass it under the landing
gear vee, over the axle, under the landing gear, over the axle, under the v
ee on the inside of the first wrap, over the axle on the outside of the fir
st wrap and under the vee on the inside of the last wrap until you have thre
e wraps pulled quite tight."
>
> "The cord should be just long enough to make a good square knot and to per
mit taping of the ends. This method makes each wrap about the same length an
d you will not have any trouble with your shock cord cutting. The landing ge
ar should give not over one inch with a full load in the ship, but neither s
hould it be any tighter."
>
> I know that this method is in the Sky Scout construction write up, but Ber
nard advised people to have both the 1932 and the 1933 Flying Manuals to cov
er everything.
>
> The 1933 Flying Manual also says on page 30: "I wish to call attention to t
he brace right back of the bottom beam. This was changed from the plans of t
he Air Camper, and I advise all of you who have not built up your wing ribs t
o build them this way." So the Air Camper ribs in the 1934 Flying Manual h
ad an erroneous brace position shown which was corrected in the 1933 Sky Sco
ut Flying Manual.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Starting my build, but need to know which fuselage |
to build!
Dave;
I guess I didn't realize you were in northern California. Where, exactly? I'm
about 35 miles north of the CA-OR border, right on I-5, in Medford and you are
welcome to look at, sit in, measure, photograph, and examine my Air Camper any
time you'd like. You would also do well to try to get to the West Coast Piet
Fly-In the first weekend of June, down at Frazier Lane (near Hollister/Gilroy).
There should be several different examples of Air Campers there including
one with a steel tube fuselage.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453060#453060
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