Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:41 AM - Working with UHMW (Jack Textor)
2. 08:19 AM - Re: Working with UHMW (Rick)
3. 10:13 AM - Re: Working with UHMW (John Cox)
4. 11:01 AM - Re: Working with UHMW (Jack Philips)
5. 01:40 PM - Re: Working with UHMW (Jack Textor)
6. 06:16 PM - Cowl Support (john francis)
7. 07:55 PM - Re: Cowl Support (taildrags)
Message 1
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Subject: | Working with UHMW |
Hello Piet friends. Would enjoy hearing how others cut and fabricate polyethylene.
Is there a glue that works with it. I've used my band saw and knife. Plan
to use it for my rudder cable routing.
Thanks!
Jack
Jack Textor
Sent from my iPad
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Working with UHMW |
Jack,
I used 1/8 in. Nylon for my fairleads. There is no way to glue polyethylene securely.
I may have some pictures of how I did my fairleads. If I find them I will
post them.
Rick Schreiber
Sent from my iPad
> On May 21, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Piet friends. Would enjoy hearing how others cut and fabricate polyethylene.
Is there a glue that works with it. I've used my band saw and knife.
Plan to use it for my rudder cable routing.
> Thanks!
> Jack
>
> Jack Textor
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Working with UHMW |
You can lathe the finished part. Leave a flanged face to adhere to your
fairlead bracket. Try this Youtube video for the adhesion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8UZhWml0Wg. The gun is a common 3M DP100
cartridge unit.
John Cox
On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 8:18 AM, Rick <lmforge@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Jack,
> I used 1/8 in. Nylon for my fairleads. There is no way to glue
> polyethylene securely. I may have some pictures of how I did my fairleads.
> If I find them I will post them.
> Rick Schreiber
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On May 21, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello Piet friends. Would enjoy hearing how others cut and fabricate
> polyethylene. Is there a glue that works with it. I've used my band saw
> and knife. Plan to use it for my rudder cable routing.
> > Thanks!
> > Jack
> >
> > Jack Textor
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Working with UHMW |
Or just buy the nylon fairleads from Aircraft Spruce like Piper used for
years. They are made to fit in a short piece of =C2=BE=9D tubing,
which can then be welded to a plate that can be attached to your
structure. I used them throughout my Pietenpol. Here=99s a
picture showing how they are mounted:
And here=99s a picture showing a closeup of the mount:
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cox
Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Working with UHMW
You can lathe the finished part. Leave a flanged face to adhere to your
fairlead bracket. Try this Youtube video for the adhesion.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8UZhWml0Wg. The gun is a common 3M
DP100 cartridge unit.
John Cox
On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 8:18 AM, Rick <lmforge@earthlink.net
<mailto:lmforge@earthlink.net> > wrote:
<mailto:lmforge@earthlink.net> >
Jack,
I used 1/8 in. Nylon for my fairleads. There is no way to glue
polyethylene securely. I may have some pictures of how I did my
fairleads. If I find them I will post them.
Rick Schreiber
Sent from my iPad
> On May 21, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com
<mailto:jack@textors.com> > wrote:
>
<mailto:jack@textors.com> >
>
> Hello Piet friends. Would enjoy hearing how others cut and fabricate
polyethylene. Is there a glue that works with it. I've used my band
saw and knife. Plan to use it for my rudder cable routing.
> Thanks!
> Jack
>
> Jack Textor
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
br> enpol-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
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eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
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errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
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-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Working with UHMW |
Thanks fellows for the pics and thoughtful comments. I just wanted to review the
various methods before proceeding. I'm actually using pulleys below the seat,
then the fair leads with an AN742-12 clamp. Then UHMW as the cables exit
the fuselage. Now I just need to get going on the tail wheel cable routing.
Thanks again!
Jack
Jack Textor
Sent from my iPad
> On May 21, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello Piet friends. Would enjoy hearing how others cut and fabricate polyethylene.
Is there a glue that works with it. I've used my band saw and knife.
Plan to use it for my rudder cable routing.
> Thanks!
> Jack
>
> Jack Textor
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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I see that many attach the forward cowl support to the leading edge of the front
stiffener. The plans call for this piece to be attached to the fuselage a few
inches ahead of the stiffener as indicated in the drawing. Why is this done?
John
--------
John Francis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456431#456431
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1479_1_195.jpg
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Cowl Support |
John;
My airplane (and, I suspect, others with a nose tank) does not have that cowl support
because the nose tank occupies that space. I have a top cowl piece that
goes from the front 'instrument board' to the firewall and that cowl piece has
the front cockpit windscreen on top of it.
The stiffener goes across the top longerons where the lower ends of the cabane
brace struts attach to the longerons. I don't think there is anything magical
about where the 'cowl support' attaches but I could be missing something. Builders
with a wing tank might have a better answer for you.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456432#456432
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