Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:25 AM - Re: Stainless firewall (JERRY)
2. 06:09 AM - Re: Stainless firewall (Jack Textor)
3. 07:25 AM - rib jig (wheelharp)
4. 07:38 AM - Re: rib jig (Jack Textor)
5. 07:53 AM - Re: rib jig (Scott Knowlton)
6. 07:54 AM - Re: Stainless firewall (Scott Knowlton)
7. 08:15 AM - rib jig (wheelharp)
8. 09:12 AM - Re: rib jig (Fairfield, Mike)
9. 11:51 AM - Re: rib jig ()
10. 12:33 PM - Re: rib jig (Lorenzo)
11. 06:18 PM - Re: Fuselage joining (cessna7226g@aol.com)
12. 06:20 PM - Re: Wood straight axle or split landing gear? (cessna7226g@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | Stainless firewall |
Very nicely done.
Jerry
Sky Classic Aircraft
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Knowlton
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2016 12:23 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought
crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on
forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35
minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or
drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying.
Scott Knowlton
Burlington Ontario
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Stainless firewall |
Scott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward?
Jack Textor
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY <jerry@skyclassic.net> wrote:
>
>
> Very nicely done.
>
> Jerry
> Sky Classic Aircraft
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> Knowlton
> Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2016 12:23 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
>
> I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought
> crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on
> forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35
> minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or
> drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying.
>
> Scott Knowlton
> Burlington Ontario
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most
wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as
soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,
does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,
if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if
ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?
--------
Jon Jones
Ironton, MO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460907#460907
Message 4
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Jon, I would suggest not messing with plexi, just drill about a 1/2-3/4 hole
at each joint, like this http://textors.com/RibDetail.jpg
Jack Textor
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:25 AM, wheelharp <wheelharp@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I k
now most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders r
emove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off
immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with pol
yester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it wil
l pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean
off. Any comments/sugesstions?
>
> --------
> Jon Jones
> Ironton, MO
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460907#460907
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Message 5
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I wouldn't advocate removing the rib from the jig until the glue has cured - 24
hours is a good rule of thumb. Really the only clamping pressure remaining when
you remove a rib that hasn't cured is where the nails or staples are imbedded.
All of the other surface of each gusset comes under pressure with the wood
naturally trying to return to whatever small directional pressure it was under
prior to being put in to the jig. Allowing it to cure in the jig will be the
best insurance that you will have 33 ribs with the exact shape of the airfoil
and contact points to the spar. Only my opinion here after building my ribs.
Scott K
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 10:28 AM, wheelharp <wheelharp@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know
most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove
as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,
does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,
if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right
off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?
>
> --------
> Jon Jones
> Ironton, MO
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460907#460907
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Stainless firewall |
Thanks Jack. I'm pretty new at this airplane building thing so perhaps I'm not
the best practice to follow... a rather knowledgable guy on our field told me
that all small continentals leak a little oil now and again (blow by, prop seal,
leaky rocker cover, spilt oil on top up...). He said if I want to limit the
residue to the belly of the airplane a good strategy is to face the flange of
the firewall forward vs aft. So that is my plan. I'll tell you in five years
if it worked!!
Scott
> On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:12 AM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote:
>
>
> Scott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward?
>
> Jack Textor
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY <jerry@skyclassic.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Very nicely done.
>>
>> Jerry
>> Sky Classic Aircraft
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
>> Knowlton
>> Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2016 12:23 PM
>> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall
>>
>> I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought
>> crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on
>> forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35
>> minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or
>> drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying.
>>
>> Scott Knowlton
>> Burlington Ontario
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most
wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as
soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately,
does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler,
if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if
ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions?
--------
Jon Jones
Ironton, MO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460911#460911
Message 8
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Good morning all,
This is the jig that I made by taking info from all the members that were
smarter than I, and putting it all together in one jig.
The holes let the extra epoxy fall through the board. Once I nail my gusse
ts in place, I flip it over and gusset the other side. You will see these
little round dark circles on the jig. These are slices from an old rake ha
ndle around 1/4" thick. I drilled one hole off center by about 1/8" right
through. I also drilled two holes about 1/8" deep to be able to use my lon
g-nose pliers to turn these little cams to bring the wood tight up against
the shape formers. I plotted the shape formers on the
2" x 12"with the dimensions on the plan. Then I took 2 lengths of 5/16" sp
ruce and curved it an glued it and nailed it to follow the plans specificat
ions for the airfoil. All my ribs came out extremely close to each other f
or the airfoil, not even off by a 1/16".
I found that this really worked well. Thanks to all the members who inspi
red me with their ideas.
Mike.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of wheelharp
Sent: October-03-16 11:15 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: rib jig
I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I kn
ow most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders r
emove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it of
f immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with p
olyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it
will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to c
lean off. Any comments/sugesstions?
--------
Jon Jones
Ironton, MO
Read this topic online here:
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__forums.matronics.com_
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Message 9
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Jon,
I looked at a lot of rib jibs from other builders before I built mine. I t
oo used plexi-glass over my rib drawing, but the T-88 did stick a little af
ter the 24hr cure. So I just cut little pieces of Saran wrap and put under
each glue joint and it peels right off after T-88 is cured.
Brian
Meridian, Idaho
Message 10
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I agree with others here. I did gussets on one side in the jig. Leave the parts
in the jig until glue is dry. Then remove the rib and gusset the other side.
I just used clamps - not nails or staples. A Harbor Freight tabletop thin-belt
sander cleaned up any drips before gusseting the 2nd side. Holes in the jig at
each joint prevent anything sticking. Cams with wing nuts hold the pieces in
place on the jig for assembly.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460915#460915
Attachments:
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Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Fuselage joining |
David,
The brace is much stronger the other way,because there is more surface are
a for the gusset to adhere to
Joe R
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Philips <jack@bedfordlandings.com>
Sent: Sun, Sep 18, 2016 6:23 am
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage joining
David,
I did mine as you did, with the 1=9D dimension aligned with the width
of the longerons. This is the correct way to do it so that gussets on the
interior of the fuselage can be applied across the longerons and the brace
s and verticals. See photo below:
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MacBook Pro
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 6:33 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage joining
Hi Pieters,
In joining the two fuselage sides, I placed the =C2=BD in x 1in struts and
braces in the vertical, ie, with the =98thin=99 side to the gus
set. I=99ve been told this is incorrect as there is only half the su
rface area to the gusset compared with the other way round. Looking at var
ious construction photos on West Coast Piet and this forum, I have noticed
that others have appeared to do the same as I have.
Is there a =98correct=99 way?
Do I need to re-do the construction? I=99d rather do it before I go a
ny further, if it needs to be done.
Regards,
David Boarder (Tasmania)
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Wood straight axle or split landing gear? |
The bungee cord takes up the shock, not the gear legs
-----Original Message-----
From: hall698 <webdatasoft@hotmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 12, 2016 5:10 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood straight axle or split landing gear?
I am steadily working my way towards the time to decide which landing gear type
to go with. As with the nature of the question I confess that I am a new to building
aircraft. Is one better than the other? I like the nostalgia of the wood,
but have concerns over rough landings. Thoughts?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460452#460452
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