Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Mon 10/03/16


Total Messages Posted: 12



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:25 AM - Re: Stainless firewall (JERRY)
     2. 06:09 AM - Re: Stainless firewall (Jack Textor)
     3. 07:25 AM - rib jig (wheelharp)
     4. 07:38 AM - Re: rib jig (Jack Textor)
     5. 07:53 AM - Re: rib jig (Scott Knowlton)
     6. 07:54 AM - Re: Stainless firewall (Scott Knowlton)
     7. 08:15 AM - rib jig (wheelharp)
     8. 09:12 AM - Re: rib jig (Fairfield, Mike)
     9. 11:51 AM - Re: rib jig ()
    10. 12:33 PM - Re: rib jig (Lorenzo)
    11. 06:18 PM - Re: Fuselage joining (cessna7226g@aol.com)
    12. 06:20 PM - Re: Wood straight axle or split landing gear? (cessna7226g@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:25:24 AM PST US
    From: "JERRY" <jerry@SKYCLASSIC.NET>
    Subject: Stainless firewall
    Very nicely done. Jerry Sky Classic Aircraft -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Knowlton Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2016 12:23 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35 minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying. Scott Knowlton Burlington Ontario


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:09:44 AM PST US
    From: Jack Textor <jack@textors.com>
    Subject: Re: Stainless firewall
    Scott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward? Jack Textor Sent from my iPad > On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY <jerry@skyclassic.net> wrote: > > > Very nicely done. > > Jerry > Sky Classic Aircraft > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott > Knowlton > Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2016 12:23 PM > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall > > I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought > crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on > forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35 > minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or > drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying. > > Scott Knowlton > Burlington Ontario > > > > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:25:52 AM PST US
    Subject: rib jig
    From: "wheelharp" <wheelharp@gmail.com>
    I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions? -------- Jon Jones Ironton, MO Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460907#460907


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:38:04 AM PST US
    From: Jack Textor <jack@textors.com>
    Subject: Re: rib jig
    Jon, I would suggest not messing with plexi, just drill about a 1/2-3/4 hole at each joint, like this http://textors.com/RibDetail.jpg Jack Textor Sent from my iPad > On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:25 AM, wheelharp <wheelharp@gmail.com> wrote: > > > I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I k now most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders r emove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with pol yester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it wil l pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions? > > -------- > Jon Jones > Ironton, MO > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460907#460907 > > > > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 07:53:49 AM PST US
    From: Scott Knowlton <flyingscott_k@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: rib jig
    I wouldn't advocate removing the rib from the jig until the glue has cured - 24 hours is a good rule of thumb. Really the only clamping pressure remaining when you remove a rib that hasn't cured is where the nails or staples are imbedded. All of the other surface of each gusset comes under pressure with the wood naturally trying to return to whatever small directional pressure it was under prior to being put in to the jig. Allowing it to cure in the jig will be the best insurance that you will have 33 ribs with the exact shape of the airfoil and contact points to the spar. Only my opinion here after building my ribs. Scott K > On Oct 3, 2016, at 10:28 AM, wheelharp <wheelharp@gmail.com> wrote: > > > I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions? > > -------- > Jon Jones > Ironton, MO > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460907#460907 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 07:54:55 AM PST US
    From: Scott Knowlton <flyingscott_k@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Stainless firewall
    Thanks Jack. I'm pretty new at this airplane building thing so perhaps I'm not the best practice to follow... a rather knowledgable guy on our field told me that all small continentals leak a little oil now and again (blow by, prop seal, leaky rocker cover, spilt oil on top up...). He said if I want to limit the residue to the belly of the airplane a good strategy is to face the flange of the firewall forward vs aft. So that is my plan. I'll tell you in five years if it worked!! Scott > On Oct 3, 2016, at 9:12 AM, Jack Textor <jack@textors.com> wrote: > > > Scott, again nice job! Are you planning to have the flange face forward? > > Jack Textor > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Oct 3, 2016, at 6:52 AM, JERRY <jerry@skyclassic.net> wrote: >> >> >> Very nicely done. >> >> Jerry >> Sky Classic Aircraft >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott >> Knowlton >> Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2016 12:23 PM >> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stainless firewall >> >> I have been avoiding this little stressful task for a while. I bought >> crimping pliers at OSH this summer and have been reading Tony Bingelis on >> forming metal. Finally this morning I made form blocks and in about 35 >> minutes formed the top arch of my stainless firewall without cutting or >> drilling. Magic! And terribly satisfying. >> >> Scott Knowlton >> Burlington Ontario > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:15:41 AM PST US
    Subject: rib jig
    From: "wheelharp" <wheelharp@gmail.com>
    I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I know most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders remove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it off immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with polyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to clean off. Any comments/sugesstions? -------- Jon Jones Ironton, MO Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460911#460911


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:12:44 AM PST US
    From: "Fairfield, Mike" <MFairfield@hewitt.ca>
    Subject: rib jig
    Good morning all, This is the jig that I made by taking info from all the members that were smarter than I, and putting it all together in one jig. The holes let the extra epoxy fall through the board. Once I nail my gusse ts in place, I flip it over and gusset the other side. You will see these little round dark circles on the jig. These are slices from an old rake ha ndle around 1/4" thick. I drilled one hole off center by about 1/8" right through. I also drilled two holes about 1/8" deep to be able to use my lon g-nose pliers to turn these little cams to bring the wood tight up against the shape formers. I plotted the shape formers on the 2" x 12"with the dimensions on the plan. Then I took 2 lengths of 5/16" sp ruce and curved it an glued it and nailed it to follow the plans specificat ions for the airfoil. All my ribs came out extremely close to each other f or the airfoil, not even off by a 1/16". I found that this really worked well. Thanks to all the members who inspi red me with their ideas. Mike. -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of wheelharp Sent: October-03-16 11:15 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: rib jig I am making rib jig covered with plexiglass to keep T88 from sticking. I kn ow most wait till rib is dry before pulling off of jig, but some builders r emove as soon as it is done if they use nails or staples. If you take it of f immediately, does getting T88 off plexi more of a problem? I know with p olyester filler, if you leave a big glob on a spreader and let it cure, it will pop right off....if ypu leave a thin film of it, it's a real pain to c lean off. Any comments/sugesstions? -------- Jon Jones Ironton, MO Read this topic online here: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__forums.matronics.com_ viewtopic.php-3Fp-3D460911-23460911&d=DQICAw&c=epcZb5jdh1ysHc2TC_uZEMpi 5Xp3bPQPSZatc6SDw3A&r=hRt1T_6xXLTFw-Pi77z3ka1Hyoflt0RLKFhpWJWpHdk&m=4pL PUH3TztJ-GGipXeqqbSBkSss7O4fbOQHWJTfbKV4&s=VZ06_xpeZX0Pl1D_g8LrKF_i4lrIu9 kW8qYxAoRFaD0&e= nics.com_Navigator-3FPietenpol-2DList&d=DQICAw&c=epcZb5jdh1ysHc2TC_uZEM pi5Xp3bPQPSZatc6SDw3A&r=hRt1T_6xXLTFw-Pi77z3ka1Hyoflt0RLKFhpWJWpHdk&m=4 pLPUH3TztJ-GGipXeqqbSBkSss7O4fbOQHWJTfbKV4&s=WW1Ou1EY7dCrC8YhGtcGqhNqCbt_ Aeh55761JXl3hA8&e= tronics.com&d=DQICAw&c=epcZb5jdh1ysHc2TC_uZEMpi5Xp3bPQPSZatc6SDw3A&r= hRt1T_6xXLTFw-Pi77z3ka1Hyoflt0RLKFhpWJWpHdk&m=4pLPUH3TztJ-GGipXeqqbSBkSss 7O4fbOQHWJTfbKV4&s=kvXMbagIwOJomYQECmZNqSvJQgjlxgq1E15TkzaqLL0&e= onics.com&d=DQICAw&c=epcZb5jdh1ysHc2TC_uZEMpi5Xp3bPQPSZatc6SDw3A&r=hR t1T_6xXLTFw-Pi77z3ka1Hyoflt0RLKFhpWJWpHdk&m=4pLPUH3TztJ-GGipXeqqbSBkSss7O 4fbOQHWJTfbKV4&s=yFsrEziIHYRI3ke6rrIFLLHmHuEFabdEr00jCZNAwrA&e= nics.com_contribution&d=DQICAw&c=epcZb5jdh1ysHc2TC_uZEMpi5Xp3bPQPSZatc6 SDw3A&r=hRt1T_6xXLTFw-Pi77z3ka1Hyoflt0RLKFhpWJWpHdk&m=4pLPUH3TztJ-GGipX eqqbSBkSss7O4fbOQHWJTfbKV4&s=dfhSVCQsJNeO0xZPIGjEQ6b3gm-wQGlNovzgZ7V5pO8& e=


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:51:09 AM PST US
    From: <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com>
    Subject: rib jig
    Jon, I looked at a lot of rib jibs from other builders before I built mine. I t oo used plexi-glass over my rib drawing, but the T-88 did stick a little af ter the 24hr cure. So I just cut little pieces of Saran wrap and put under each glue joint and it peels right off after T-88 is cured. Brian Meridian, Idaho


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:33:48 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: rib jig
    From: "Lorenzo" <larharris2@msn.com>
    I agree with others here. I did gussets on one side in the jig. Leave the parts in the jig until glue is dry. Then remove the rib and gusset the other side. I just used clamps - not nails or staples. A Harbor Freight tabletop thin-belt sander cleaned up any drips before gusseting the 2nd side. Holes in the jig at each joint prevent anything sticking. Cams with wing nuts hold the pieces in place on the jig for assembly. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460915#460915 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscf0614sm_967.jpg


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:18:43 PM PST US
    From: cessna7226g@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Fuselage joining
    David, The brace is much stronger the other way,because there is more surface are a for the gusset to adhere to Joe R -----Original Message----- From: Jack Philips <jack@bedfordlandings.com> Sent: Sun, Sep 18, 2016 6:23 am Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage joining David, I did mine as you did, with the 1=9D dimension aligned with the width of the longerons. This is the correct way to do it so that gussets on the interior of the fuselage can be applied across the longerons and the brace s and verticals. See photo below: Jack Phillips NX899JP Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MacBook Pro Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 6:33 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage joining Hi Pieters, In joining the two fuselage sides, I placed the =C2=BD in x 1in struts and braces in the vertical, ie, with the =98thin=99 side to the gus set. I=99ve been told this is incorrect as there is only half the su rface area to the gusset compared with the other way round. Looking at var ious construction photos on West Coast Piet and this forum, I have noticed that others have appeared to do the same as I have. Is there a =98correct=99 way? Do I need to re-do the construction? I=99d rather do it before I go a ny further, if it needs to be done. Regards, David Boarder (Tasmania)


    Message 12


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    Time: 06:20:12 PM PST US
    From: cessna7226g@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Wood straight axle or split landing gear?
    The bungee cord takes up the shock, not the gear legs -----Original Message----- From: hall698 <webdatasoft@hotmail.com> Sent: Mon, Sep 12, 2016 5:10 pm Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood straight axle or split landing gear? I am steadily working my way towards the time to decide which landing gear type to go with. As with the nature of the question I confess that I am a new to building aircraft. Is one better than the other? I like the nostalgia of the wood, but have concerns over rough landings. Thoughts? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460452#460452




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