Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:38 AM - Re: Re: Stainless firewall (Scott Knowlton)
2. 03:50 PM - Re:fuselage joining (MacBook Pro)
3. 08:06 PM - Re: fuselage joining (taildrags)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless firewall |
Thanks Oscar. I suppose your oil leak prevention strategy should be something
I adopt rather than just my simple "containment" plan. I always enjoy reading
your posts. Great way to start a day!
Scott K
> On Oct 5, 2016, at 12:06 AM, taildrags <taildrags@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Scott; my airplane has a Continental A75 but it has also flown behind an A65
and I would have to agree with the rather knowledgeable guy on your field when
he says that they all tend to seep or drip now and again. Both of mine have
been lightly generous with oil during their time in operation. Mine dumps a little
bit of oil mist out the crankcase breather tube when in cruise flight but
I plan to fit an oil separator to the tube to eliminate that.
>
> The prop seal shouldn't be contributing anything but if it is, you can replace
the seal and get a tight fit there again. All it takes is one new seal, about
an hour of time, a copy of "The Sailor's Illustrated Book of Swear Words" (international
version is best), and a few simple hand tools. I've done it and
lived to tell about it, and now my prop seal is dry as a bone. If you attempt
it, note carefully the instruction that comes with the seal about using coarse
emery cloth to lightly score a reverse-screw pattern onto the prop shaft where
it passes through the seal. This provides a subtle but effective screwing-back
action on any oil that tries to creep out past the seal along the shaft
surface. That detail was missed during the engine rebuild and the shiny-new overhauled
shaft provided a perfect path for oil to creep out past the seal until
I did the emery cloth thing and installed a new seal. Fixed.
>
> When my A75 was completely overhauled and rebuilt, I scrounged together a matching
set of four stamped rocker covers (the cast ones are more rigid but heavier),
overhauled them, repainted them, and installed "Real Gasket" silicone gaskets
in hopes of eliminating seeps and drips from them. The stock cork rocker
cover gaskets harden over time and trying to tighten the screws only makes things
worse. I've found the silicone gaskets to be better about this, but I still
have one rocker cover that will drip when the oil is good and hot (thin),
and another that tries to do the same but only manages a thin seep. Still, the
propwash picks that up and zings it back onto the windscreen, belly, and fuselage
side in a very fine mist that picks up dust and grime during taxi operations.
>
> I don't have any spilled oil on top of my engine. It's all on the bottom ;o)
Every time I check my oil, I have to have a paper or rag handy, because there
is no way to pull the dipstick without getting some oil somewhere. I always
drip some when I pull the stick just far enough to read the numbers, but manage
to touch the stick to the filler neck while I'm reading and -zoop!- a little
bit of oil runs down the outside of the filler neck. Hate when that happens!
>
> Anyway, your fluting and flanging job on the firewall looks great (mine is stainless
too, but flat), but I think facing the flange forward in hopes of reducing
oil back on the fuselage and cowl is pretty much wishful thinking. Let us
know how it works, though! Personally, I think it adds to my image on the ramp
if I walk away from the airplane with some oil and grime on my clothes after
brushing against the wing strut leading edge or side of the fuselage after
a flight. I smell like a real pilot that way, too ;o)
>
> --------
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460951#460951
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re:fuselage joining |
Hi,
Thanks to those who offered suggestions re: my fuselage joining. I agree that the
correct method is to lay the cross braces flat so as to maximise the joining
surfaces. I started to change mine but have given up. I hate retreating, and
it was making a mess of what I considered a reasonable job. Id rather put in
some extra blocks or braces, even though it will increase the weight.
On a very steep learning curve here, but enjoying every step.
Cheers from way down-under.
David Boarder (Tasmania)
dboarder@internode.on.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: fuselage joining |
David;
On a different note, what type of wood are you building your structural members
with? I've heard people say that spruce is not available down under, and that
builders there use hoop pine. Looking at the physical properties of hoop pine,
it looks to be quite similar to spruce, stronger but a bit heavier. Very
similar to Douglas fir but not quite as heavy.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460993#460993
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