Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 08:06 AM - Value of the List... (Matt Dralle)
1. 12:44 AM - Re: Re: Turtle Deck Help! (Clif Dawson)
2. 04:06 AM - Re: Re: Turtle Deck Help! (M W Stanley)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Stuff to add to epoxy (planes&bikes)
4. 07:26 AM - Horizontal Stab center section build up (hall698)
5. 07:58 AM - Re: Steel Fuselage (wheelharp)
6. 08:00 AM - Re: Steel Fuselage (Texaspiet)
7. 08:26 AM - Re: Steel Fuselage (Texaspiet)
8. 08:57 AM - Re: Re: Steel Fuselage (Glen Schweizer)
9. 09:25 AM - Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up (Chris Tracy)
10. 09:44 AM - Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up (tools)
11. 09:51 AM - Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up (hall698)
12. 12:54 PM - Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up (tools)
13. 08:06 PM - Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up (taildrags)
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| Subject: | Value of the List... |
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Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck Help! |
I agree. I've already been using that plydeck to heave myself in and out and
sat on it
many times also. It's a thin ply over a balsa base.
Because the sides are curved from the seat to the tail I evened out the
stringer spacing at
the center former, half way between seat back and tail. If they are dead
straight then when
covered that area next to the fuselage side will look wrongly different from
the rest. Like
the turtledeck was thoughtlessly thrown together.
Clif
http://www.flamingsteel.com/the-secret-behind-the-latte-effect.php
>
> John;
>
> It does seem to be taking on some pleasing lines! And I realize that
> you're just getting underway with it, but if you'll look at the image
> "tdeck1" that I sent, that piece of plywood over the stringers just aft of
> the rear seat back is very important. I rest the palm of my hand right
> there every time I get out of the cockpit, and if the plywood wasn't
> there, I would be pushing on the fabric and not much else. You don't have
> to scallop the aft edge of the plywood, but I think the scalloping helps
> the fabric lay down smoother and not form a visible ridge where the
> plywood ends.
>
> --------
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck Help! |
Hi all,
I like the idea of the thin ply over balsa scallops.
Good strength with low weight and it is very pleasing to the eye to boot.
If I get that far, I will do the same with my project.
Thanks
Mark Stanley
Japan
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Clif Dawson" <cdawson5854@shaw.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2016 5:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Turtle Deck Help!
> I agree. I've already been using that plydeck to heave myself in and out
> and
> sat on it
> many times also. It's a thin ply over a balsa base.
>
> Because the sides are curved from the seat to the tail I evened out the
> stringer spacing at
> the center former, half way between seat back and tail. If they are dead
> straight then when
> covered that area next to the fuselage side will look wrongly different
> from
> the rest. Like
> the turtledeck was thoughtlessly thrown together.
>
> Clif
> http://www.flamingsteel.com/the-secret-behind-the-latte-effect.php
>
>>
>> John;
>>
>> It does seem to be taking on some pleasing lines! And I realize that
>> you're just getting underway with it, but if you'll look at the image
>> "tdeck1" that I sent, that piece of plywood over the stringers just aft
>> of
>> the rear seat back is very important. I rest the palm of my hand right
>> there every time I get out of the cockpit, and if the plywood wasn't
>> there, I would be pushing on the fabric and not much else. You don't
>> have
>> to scallop the aft edge of the plywood, but I think the scalloping helps
>> the fabric lay down smoother and not form a visible ridge where the
>> plywood ends.
>>
>> --------
>> Oscar Zuniga
>> Medford, OR
>> Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
>> A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stuff to add to epoxy |
West Systems is produced by Gougeon Brothers, Inc., P.O. Box 908, Bay City, MI
48707, and you can call their Tech Rep at 866-937-8797 or 989-684-7286. I've found
them very helpful, and I'd use their advice before trying others' "worked
for me" stories. You can also subscribe (free) to their quarterly EPOXY WORKS
magazine which is a good source of ideas. At Airworthiness Insp stage - taxi
testing now.
Don Youngblood
Easley, SC
--------
Planes&Bikes
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462990#462990
Attachments:
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| Subject: | Horizontal Stab center section build up |
Per the plans, it shows that the recessed portion of the LE as well as the center
beam be applied with 3/16 ply. My question is can this be pieces of 1/8 ply
laminated and sized or should I buy a piece of 3/16 ply for this? Has anyone
used anything other than ply? Spruce? also is the TE to be applied with 3/16 as
well or just the 1/8? Thanks in advance for any help on this.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462992#462992
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fuselage |
What part of TX are you in? One of the Corvair guys is building steel tube fuse
in north/central Louisiana.
--------
Jon Jones
Ironton, MO
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462994#462994
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fuselage |
Thanks all for the contacts! Looking forward to learning more from the site. Happy
Thanksgiving! Rich
--------
Rich Green, CFI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462995#462995
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fuselage |
I live in the Katy TX area just West if Houston about 40 miles or so. I am most
interested in learning how to attach the fittings best to the tubing. As far
as I know there are no plans for the tube fuselage other than the fuselage itself.
Best regards, Rich
--------
Rich Green, CFI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463073#463073
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fuselage |
Assuming that it's 4130 either TIG or gas weld NO MIG. With the typical MIG set
up, Chrome Molly steel can become very brittle at the junction of the weld. "Women
fly too" please chime in you're the expert on this stuff 4130 can be welded
with MIG, but it does take specialized equipment and some highly developed
skills 4130 is a different animal
> On Nov 23, 2016, at 8:26 AM, Texaspiet <Richard.green@dnvgl.com> wrote:
>
>
> I live in the Katy TX area just West if Houston about 40 miles or so. I am most
interested in learning how to attach the fittings best to the tubing. As
far as I know there are no plans for the tube fuselage other than the fuselage
itself. Best regards, Rich
>
> --------
> Rich Green, CFI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463073#463073
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up |
You can get small sheets of high quality birch plywood at many hobby/model
airplane stores. It's what I used. The stuff I used seems to be made with w
aterproof glues and no voids.
Not sure if you should laminate this out of 1/8 ply or not .=C2-
Chris
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Wed, Nov 23, 2016 at 7:25 AM, hall698<webdatasoft@hotmail.com> wrote:
Per the plans, it shows that the recessed portion of the LE as well as the
center beam be applied with 3/16 ply. My question is can this be pieces of
1/8 ply laminated and sized or should I buy a piece of 3/16 ply for this? H
as anyone used anything other than ply? Spruce? also is the TE to be applie
d with 3/16 as well or just the 1/8? Thanks in advance for any help on this
.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462992#462992
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
S -
WIKI -
-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up |
Having seen this joint in failure mode, 1/8 will work fine. However, I still like
to build to plans, just for peace of mind. I am FULLY convinced that laminating
up to 3/16 yourself is super perfectly fine.
I might add that the plans call for merely wood screwing the stab to the fuse.
Not through bolting as is usually done. Should you through bolt, I would reinforce
the fuse where you drill through it, scarf plate, what ever, something.
Using screws does not compromise the longeron any where near as much as drilling
a hole through it.
Tools
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up |
Great info. I will go the 2 x 1/8 lam route for now. Thanks for the advice. God
Bless
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up |
Didn't mention specifically, but I wouldn't hesitate to go 2x 1/8 and then plane
to 3/16 which is I believe what you mentioned in your original post.
Tools
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463080#463080
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal Stab center section build up |
I see that the last part of your question wasn't addressed, asking whether the
plywood piece on the TE should also be 3/16". What I'm seeing of the beam sections,
the LE nose is 3/4" and the beam thickness is 1/2", so that leaves a step
of 1/8" to receive the 3/16" plywood. That means that the plywood will be
1/16" proud of the LE nose where the vertical stabilizer attaches to it. There
are some 1/2" x 3/16" strips every 9" or so, spanwise out each side of the HS,
so those will also stand proud of the LE beam by 1/16". I'm not sure if people
are rounding those down to fair into the nose of the LE... someone else will
have to answer that.
Moving aft along the HS, there is a 3/4" thick center beam and 3/4" thick diagonal
braces that the 1/2" x 3/16" strips ride over, giving the whole HS a bit of
an upper and lower camber. Where the 3/16" plywood goes on top of the center
beam, it's matching the 3/16" thickness of the strips... so far, so good. Now
to the main beam of the HS, since it is called out as 5/8" thick with a 1"
beam depth. If you make that plywood 3/16" thick, it will be perfectly flush
with the beam, as will the 1/2" x 3/16" strips, so there's that piece of the puzzle...
that plywood should also be 3/16".
Continuing aft to the TE of the elevator, that piece is called out as 5/8" with
a thickness of 1/2", leaving a 1/16" step. The 1/2"x3/16" strips are going to
stick up 1/8", not a very smooth transition to the TE, so I don't know what
the answer is back there. The callouts for 1/8" plywood on the HS plan are for
the gussets where the diagonals join the center beam, at the four corners of
the assembly, and under the back of the main beam where you will attach the nutplates
that hold the elevator hinges to the main beam.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
Medford, OR
Air Camper NX41CC "Scout"
A75 power, 72x36 Culver prop
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