Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Wed 01/17/18


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:42 AM - Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals (jarheadpilot82)
     2. 07:30 AM - Re: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals (Steven Dortch)
     3. 07:48 AM - Re: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals (Glen Schweizer)
     4. 05:31 PM - Re: Ragwing Ultra-Piet (cdlwingnut)
     5. 06:05 PM - AD On ELTs. (Steven Dortch)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:42:37 AM PST US
    Subject: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals
    From: "jarheadpilot82" <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com>
    I have built my cabanes and diagonals, and I choses to use 4130 Chromoly streamlined tubing as opposed to aluminum or wood. I want to corrosion treat the inside of the cabanes and am looking for suggestions. Steve D, I know you mentioned using CorrosionX on your Bonanza. Which version? How would you apply to the inside of the tubes? Thanks in advance for the suggestions. -------- Semper Fi, Terry Hand Athens, GA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477366#477366 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/unadjustednonraw_thumb_5e88_236.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_2_182.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_1_113.jpg


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:30:25 AM PST US
    From: Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals
    On my struts here is what I did on my steel cut down piper cub struts: *I stripped and derusted the outside. (I found wrapping them in aluminum foil while coated with stripper worked best. followed by steel wool. * *Then rustoleum self etching primer and White Rustoleum auto paint (rattlecan) * *Then I Then put a tiny light inside one end and took a look. Some rust but **nothing** bad. This plane was kept indoors. * *Then i plugged one end (with the threaded attachement) * *Bought Boiled Linseed oil (($19 per gallon, I would have preferred raw as it does not harden, but boiled is good also.) * *Heated the linseed oil up (in a big pot of water on a outdoor propane burner) to about 150F * *Used a funnel and hose to pour it inside each strut. (I put in way more than needed, but it is cheap) * *Plugged the holes with my gloved fingers and Rolled the struts all over the axis for about 5 minutes each. You could hear it slosh. * *Poured most out, but left some in and leaned them in the corner waiting to go to the airport. * *I will "reslosh" before I put them on. * *I put the extra back in the gallon can, so now I have 7/8ths of a gallon left. Too bad it cannot be used with Latex paint. * *I decided not to do the AD required for a Piper cub. Using a Maule Fabric tester on it for 2 reasons, 1. It beats up a $300 dollar Maule fabric tester and 2. It beats up your strut. THis test is where you put graph paper on the bottom end of the strut and punch the strut in each square, thin wall dents. ** My IA buddy really doesn'tlike this test. I bought a** ultrasonic metal thinckness tester and used that. My IA later traded me out of it. * *Why linseed oil and not the newer oils? I looked at CorrosionX, LPS, ACF50 and several other products. None seemed to do much more than what the Linseed oil would do. It flows in well and (especially heated) fills all the little crevaces and seals holes. Then it hardens, first as it cools and then more as it ages, to a waxy oxygen barrier. (Raw stays more waxy, Boiled eventually gets hard.) So no more rust production without O2. I can retreat about 8 times, Cheap and predictable results. * *That was several years ago. I still have Linseed oil slowly seeping out. BTW If you get linseed oil on your old suburban upholstery It will not come out for love or money!* *On most items, If I think I see corrosion somewhere I tend to spray with Corrosion X aviation (Stops corrosion dead), and sometimes follow with LPS 3 (Waxy and water resistant.)* *Blue Skies, Steve D * On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 8:42 AM, jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com> wrote: > jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com> > > I have built my cabanes and diagonals, and I choses to use 4130 Chromoly > streamlined tubing as opposed to aluminum or wood. I want to corrosion > treat the inside of the cabanes and am looking for suggestions. Steve D, I > know you mentioned using CorrosionX on your Bonanza. Which version? How > would you apply to the inside of the tubes? > > Thanks in advance for the suggestions. > > -------- > Semper Fi, > > Terry Hand > Athens, GA > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477366#477366 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/unadjustednonraw_thumb_5e88_236.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_2_182.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_1_113.jpg > > -- Blue Skies, Steve D


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:48:26 AM PST US
    From: Glen Schweizer <glenschweizer@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Corrosion Treating the Inside of the Cabanes and Diagonals
    In the old days as you probably know boiled linseed oil was put inside tubes. A hole was put in bottom for drainage and plugged with a screw. Worked pretty well actually. I come across Stearman and cub structures quite often60+years old no rust. Messy icky stuff cause it drips for months or maybe years. It always amazes me how well old technology works. I dont think anyone back then was planning on any of the old airplanes lasting 70 years > On Jan 17, 2018, at 6:42 AM, jarheadpilot82 <jarheadpilot82@hotmail.com> wrote: > > > I have built my cabanes and diagonals, and I choses to use 4130 Chromoly streamlined tubing as opposed to aluminum or wood. I want to corrosion treat the inside of the cabanes and am looking for suggestions. Steve D, I know you mentioned using CorrosionX on your Bonanza. Which version? How would you apply to the inside of the tubes? > > Thanks in advance for the suggestions. > > -------- > Semper Fi, > > Terry Hand > Athens, GA > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477366#477366 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/unadjustednonraw_thumb_5e88_236.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_2_182.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/cabanes_1_113.jpg > > > > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:31:45 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Ragwing Ultra-Piet
    From: "cdlwingnut" <lee_chad@hotmail.com>
    I removed from the jig and flipped the fuselage over to glue in more members still rechecking to make sure it's square Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477385#477385 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/r_side_up_2_124.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/r_side_up_458.jpg


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:05:33 PM PST US
    From: Steven Dortch <steven.d.dortch@gmail.com>
    Subject: AD On ELTs.
    On my certified plane I have an Ameriking 450 ELT. It just had an AD put out on it taking it out of service at my next inspection. Since we are Experimental, could I use it in my Pietenpol? -- Blue Skies, Steve D




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