Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:05 AM - guys that are building are busy and not on line (Frazier, Vincent A)
2. 10:05 PM - plumbing of tip tanks (Phil Ayrton)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | guys that are building are busy and not on line |
--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP Maybe the guys that are building are busy and not on line. SNIP
Not so! I was up until 12:30 last night slobbering West epoxy all over my tail
fairing.
Monday night I prepped the tail for the horrible mess to come by covering all of
the exposed aluminum. The guy building an RV-7 in my shop will notice that
somebody stole a bunch of that protective plastic crap off of his wing panel.
I used it to cover my tail. Worked great, epoxy peels off of it fairly easily,
and the price was right. I did use a little black tape around the edges to
seal the plastic down.
Yesterday I brought home about 15# of modeling clay that I "borrowed" from the
art department (they're on summer break). I smooshed it all over the tail intersection
until it looked about right. Actually you don't really look at it so
much as you feel for lumps. Heck any good body shop guy could do this in no
time. For that matter, Ray Charles could too.
So, after I spent an hour molding the sticky stuff, it was time to start with the
really yucky stuff. No, I'll never win any awards for fiberglass work. The
local Glassygofast builder tells me that the ratio (by weight) of glass to resin
should be 2:1. My ratio is more like 1:1 or 1:2. Doh! I can't believe that
you can actually build an entire airplane out of that stuff.
After a quick double checking to make sure that everything was ready, the tail
is covered, and the glass is cut, it was time to glove up... double glove actually.
A few thousand pumps of the West cans later and VOILA (drum roll).... well,
I'll be dipped... a suitable looking fairing had appeared where before there
was only lumps of clay!
Now to trim it with the band saw (with the old blade)and proceed to the really
fun part... hours and hours of sanding and filling. ACK!
Now, who says nobody on this list builds?
Sorry to those who were hoping for a discussion about my tee-shirt, religion, primer,
or political views. LOL!!!
Vince Frazier
1946 Stinson, NC97535, FOR SALE (the world's nicest Stinson... really!)
F-1H Rocket, "Shangrila", N540VF reserved,
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | plumbing of tip tanks |
--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Phil Ayrton" <ayrton@ihug.com.au>
I am building a 180hp RV-4 here in Australia and am currently converting the
standard fibreglass tips to tip tanks.
I am using John Johanson's plans but there's not much information about
plumbing methods and I think I need help.
I have a very simple approach to managing this fuel. I propose gravity feed
from tips to mains, actuated by a float shutoff valve in the outer baffle of
the main tanks. Mains and tips vented separately. Once the level in the
mains goes down and the float drops, the transfer commences. Conversely the
float valve ensures that no syphon into tip tanks occurs when parked on a
slope and when fuel is required in mains only. I propose another inspection
cover adjacent to the main tank to allow a spanner for connection, and at
the tip tank the connection is made just prior to final location. The
connection to the tip is a 90deg fitting with a finger strainer inside lying
along the bottom of the tank adjacent to the main spar area, which should be
the lowest point when in the flying attitude.
Now my question.......in the outer wing bay I am proposing a 30deg bend
forward in the alum fuel line, then after 2-3" a 30 deg bend back again, to
provide a "kink" to allow for expansion and contraction, and to ensure that
not too much strain is placed on either the fuel line or tank baffles. Does
this sound sensible or is there a better way. I dont want to reinvent the
wheel if I can help it.....thanks for any assistance.
Phil Ayrton
Wollongong, Australia
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|