Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: IO-540 Breather lines (Rocket Shop)
2. 04:55 AM - Re: IO-540 Breather lines (Archie)
3. 06:20 AM - engine vent (Frazier, Vincent A)
4. 06:12 PM - Breather vacuum (Archie)
Message 1
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| Subject: | IO-540 Breather lines |
--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Rocket Shop" <russ@wernerworld.com>
I like the speed! I have a big hose with the Christen spring, but they
didnt like the fitting I was using. Apparantly these engines really
need to breathe to keep the oil leaking under control!
Russ
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: "Ron C" <ronc@metropolisdesign.com>
>
> Hi Russ-
>
> I am using a big fuel line type hose with a spring inside. The spring
> keeps the hose from collapsing when you bend it in a small radius to
get
> it going down hill. The springs are available from Christen
enterprises
> in afton,WY. I don't have the p/n. One thought ids to get the vent
line
> to rout up to the top of the cowling to give the oil more chance to
run
> back into the engine before making it over the "hill" and down the
pipe
> to the bottom of the plane. Other options are to go to Checker and ask
> to look at their stock hoses. They have dozens of them in many prebent
> shapes thus negating the spring requirement.
>
> Good luck.
>
> P.S. I did 245 mph indicated yesterday in cedar valley!
>
> Ron Carter
> N230RC
>
>
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Russ
Werner
> To: rocket-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Rocket-List: IO-540 Breather lines
>
>
> --> Rocket-List message posted by: "Russ Werner"
<russ@wernerworld.com>
>
> I'm interested in what kind of fittings folks are using on the
breather
> line on their engines, particularly if you have the B & C oil filter
> adapter installed. I went to great lengths to get something that
works,
> but Ly-Con says it isn't big enough. Between the engine mount and the
> adapter there isn't much room to turn from heading up to going down!
>
> Russ
> HRII
>
>
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--
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Breather lines |
--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Archie" <archie97@earthlink.net>
If you have the ability to receive cad files, I will show you part
of a system that may help alleviate this problem if you are using
conventional piston rings, and consuming excess oil.
The basic components can be purchased at any automotive
speed shop.
In racing, this system has been employed for years to create
negative crankase pressure. In fact, we also incorporate vacuum
pumps to to increase vacuum to the level that main oil seals must
be installed backwards.
Archie Frangoudis,
Archie's Racing Service
Message 3
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--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP
I am using a big fuel line type hose with a spring inside. The spring
keeps the hose from collapsing when you bend it in a small radius to get
it going down hill. The springs are available from Christen enterprises
in afton,WY. I don't have the p/n. One thought ids to get the vent line
to rout up to the top of the cowling to give the oil more chance to run
back into the engine before making it over the "hill" and down the pipe
to the bottom of the plane. Other options are to go to Checker and ask
to look at their stock hoses. They have dozens of them in many prebent
shapes thus negating the spring requirement.
Good luck.
P.S. I did 245 mph indicated yesterday in cedar valley!
Ron Carter
N230RC SNIP
I tried to get the oil vapors to burn off on the hot exhaust pipe. Some
burned, but the rest just ends up on the belly. Not much, but any is
too much.
I'm going to make a oil separator today to match the one I had on my
RV-4. It worked very well. Never had a drop of oil on that belly.
Take a medium sized (8 oz or larger is good) of Oatey PVC cement, like
you'd use on PVC pipe. Throw away the cement and clean out the can.
Solder two 5/8 x 3/4 brass hose barbs to the bottom of the can. Loosely
fill the can with pieces of scotchbrite, screen mesh, or other material
that will give the oil vapor somewhere to condense. Mount the hole
thing in the engine compartment so that you can run the vent line to it
and away from it.
To clean, simply remove the large cap and drain out any oil goo that
accumulates. Mount the thing so the cap is on the bottom.
Don't forget to cut a whistle slot in the upper part of your vent line.
Vince
Message 4
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3.60 ALT_MED Misspelled medication name
--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Archie" <archie97@earthlink.net>
I have had so many inquiries to my commentary, will attempt to cover some here
just one time.
First, the best time to stop oil burning and leakage is during overhaul.
If you believe that the factory has all the best overhaul procedures,
stop here, because I am not a proponent of model T technology.
Throw those factory rings away, and place a mirror finish on the cylinders.
For more on this, you must take in one of my seminars at OSH.
Regarding the vacuum system, nothing is plumbed to the atmosphere per se.
We want to generate negative pressure in the engine crankcase.
The drawing I sent out is incorporated into the exhaust system to generate
vacuum at cruising rpm. At lower speed, a line is "T"d in to the induction
manifold to generate low rpm vacuum. any residual oil will be drawn into the
exhaust, and not on the belly of the AC.
On the racing versions, an additional pump is incorporated to increase
vacuum to the point that crank seals must be installed backwards.
The system works just fine, even with old style rings.
Hp can be increased if incorporating modern cylinder wall prep and rings
during overhaul.
With a bit of additional work, can also be used as a backup vacuum for
instruments. I make my own parts for customers, but
basic component kits are available at speed shops, or from
www.cantonracingproducts.com believe the part number is 65-something.
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