Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:27 AM - FW: Missile Balloons (Frazier, Vincent A)
2. 07:58 AM - FW: Summer heating woes! (Frazier, Vincent A)
3. 09:04 AM - Re: FW: Summer heating woes! (Tom Martin)
4. 09:38 AM - Re: FW: Summer heating woes! (Konrad L. Werner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | FW: Missile Balloons |
--> Rocket-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
These are fricking sweet. I wish I knew where to get some.
And how cool would it be to tie one to the tail of your airplane and fly
past the control tower? The Homeland Security guys would soil their
pants.
Vince
-----Original Message-----
From: bfrazier
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 5:05 PM
Subject: Missle Balloons
Dad, you definitely need these for your truck.
http://www.i-am-bored.com/bored_link.cfm?link_id=17842
Message 2
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| Subject: | FW: Summer heating woes! |
I'm no expert, but this info might be of use to someone out there in
Rocketland.
Vince
________________________________
From: **** @aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Summer heating woes!
As the temps climb into the low 90's here my normal 195 oil temp has
headed for 205, and the cylinders are running about 385 except number
six which is 410. **** wanted me to try his "air ramps" in front of
the 1 and 2 cylinders. I still think my air outlet under the back of
the cowling is too tight. What do you think I should try first? What
oil temp scares you? My oil temps are no problem in climb, but get
hotter and hotter as the flight progresses. I left the oil dip stick
loose on one flight and did notice the "backwards" air flow putting very
small amounts of oil out on the front of the intake ducts.
I know, move to Alaska,
Cheers,
XXXXX
________________________________
From: Frazier, Vincent A
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: RE: Summer heating woes!
**** ,
I sure wish I had a few photos of what's under your cowling!! I suppose
that these are the first things that I'd try (in order of easiest 1st)
1) turn off the elctronic ignition advance and see if it affects the
temps. Not sure if that is possible with your setup, but my Rose system
could do that. The Rose system caused a large temp swing when it was
on, towards higher CHTs. When running on a mag only, the EGTs went up
(because the fuel was still burning as it left the cylinder.)
2) make sure that all air leaks are sealed. I used at least 2 tubes of
red RTV around the baffles. Check the flexible baffle materials that
seal to the top cowl, particularly around the case right behind the
prop. I've seen HUGE air leaks there on many planes.
3) fly only when it's raining. Just kidding.
4) remove the upper gear intersection fairings (if you can safely fly
without them holding your gear leg fairings in place) and see if you can
shim the lower cowl air outlet open farther than it normally would be.
I can do this on mine, but yours...???? Having the outlet propped open
with a couple 5/8" spacers makes a measurable difference on mine.
5) have you removed the excess flashing that is found on many cylinder
fins near the spark plugs? I'm told that it can cause higher temps.
Refer to http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm . It's the
first thing on the top of the page.
6) it's getting ugly now.... fly your plane to Hepler and leave it for
at least 6 months while I test and rebuild the entire cooling system.
Shouldn't cost more than $75,000 plus fuel for me to fly it everywhere
between here and Florida. I can guarantee a temperature drop... but
only during December.
7) you can add an airflow smoothing ramp around the engine mount tubes
to help smooth the exiting air. It is easy to do, cheap,
lightweight.... but may or may not help. It certainly won't hurt. Here
is a photo of mine:
http://vincesrocket.com/2004-09-08/engine%20view%2014.jpg
8) balance your injectors and run LOP per Don Rivera at Airflow
Performance. Guaranteed to lower your cruising temps.
9) install louvers on the lower cowl. I believe that this helped drop
the temps on my plane by at least 20 degrees, but I would try everything
else first. I don't really think that I needed the louvers since my
temps were fine for the way I fly the plane, local conditions, etc. I
just had to do it because I wanted to see what effect they would have!
(Same reason that I shortened the gear legs!.... experimental is more
fun)
10) what oil cooler are you using? Some claim that the SW is the best.
My Positech (get the latest revision if you don't have it already) works
fine. I'm sure that you've already hammered this area, but have a
second look.
11) I'm beginning to think that our inlets aren't very efficient either.
Lopresti must have some reason to make those ugly round inlets. Adding
a set of those would really screw up your paint.
12) get one of the super duper ultra cowls that some guys are using. I
have no data on them. You're on your own. I'll wager that one of these
would screw up your paint and your wallet.
Good luck,
Vince
Message 3
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| Subject: | FW: Summer heating woes! |
As well as all the excellent suggestions that Vince has I have a simple one
that you can try that does not cost a cent! In the summer months remove
your heat muff and all the associated tubing. You lose two ways with a heat
muff on in the summer. One; it is still generating heat even when you are
not using it and all the air that goes through it to the cabin in the winter
is now circulating in the cowling. Two; with out the heat muff on you have
just plugged a two inch hole in your baffles.. How hard do we work to plug
every crack and crevice and then we dump this two inch hole of air out the
back.
It might not make any difference but if you have an engine that
is running warm what can it hurt to try it. I take mine off in the spring
and put it on in the fall when the passengers start to complain.
Tom
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier,
Vincent A
Sent: June 14, 2006 10:59 AM
Subject: Rocket-List: FW: Summer heating woes!
I'm no expert, but this info might be of use to someone out there in
Rocketland.
Vince
_____
From: **** @aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Summer heating woes!
As the temps climb into the low 90's here my normal 195 oil temp has headed
for 205, and the cylinders are running about 385 except number six which is
410. **** wanted me to try his "air ramps" in front of the 1 and 2
cylinders. I still think my air outlet under the back of the cowling is too
tight. What do you think I should try first? What oil temp scares you? My
oil temps are no problem in climb, but get hotter and hotter as the flight
progresses. I left the oil dip stick loose on one flight and did notice the
"backwards" air flow putting very small amounts of oil out on the front of
the intake ducts.
I know, move to Alaska,
Cheers,
XXXXX
_____
From: Frazier, Vincent A
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:55 AM
Subject: RE: Summer heating woes!
**** ,
I sure wish I had a few photos of what's under your cowling!! I suppose
that these are the first things that I'd try (in order of easiest 1st)
1) turn off the elctronic ignition advance and see if it affects the temps.
Not sure if that is possible with your setup, but my Rose system could do
that. The Rose system caused a large temp swing when it was on, towards
higher CHTs. When running on a mag only, the EGTs went up (because the fuel
was still burning as it left the cylinder.)
2) make sure that all air leaks are sealed. I used at least 2 tubes of red
RTV around the baffles. Check the flexible baffle materials that seal to
the top cowl, particularly around the case right behind the prop. I've seen
HUGE air leaks there on many planes.
3) fly only when it's raining. Just kidding.
4) remove the upper gear intersection fairings (if you can safely fly
without them holding your gear leg fairings in place) and see if you can
shim the lower cowl air outlet open farther than it normally would be. I
can do this on mine, but yours...???? Having the outlet propped open with
a couple 5/8" spacers makes a measurable difference on mine.
5) have you removed the excess flashing that is found on many cylinder fins
near the spark plugs? I'm told that it can cause higher temps. Refer to
http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm . It's the first thing on
the top of the page.
6) it's getting ugly now.... fly your plane to Hepler and leave it for at
least 6 months while I test and rebuild the entire cooling system.
Shouldn't cost more than $75,000 plus fuel for me to fly it everywhere
between here and Florida. I can guarantee a temperature drop... but only
during December.
7) you can add an airflow smoothing ramp around the engine mount tubes to
help smooth the exiting air. It is easy to do, cheap, lightweight.... but
may or may not help. It certainly won't hurt. Here is a photo of mine:
http://vincesrocket.com/2004-09-08/engine%20view%2014.jpg
8) balance your injectors and run LOP per Don Rivera at Airflow Performance.
Guaranteed to lower your cruising temps.
9) install louvers on the lower cowl. I believe that this helped drop the
temps on my plane by at least 20 degrees, but I would try everything else
first. I don't really think that I needed the louvers since my temps were
fine for the way I fly the plane, local conditions, etc. I just had to do
it because I wanted to see what effect they would have! (Same reason that I
shortened the gear legs!.... experimental is more fun)
10) what oil cooler are you using? Some claim that the SW is the best. My
Positech (get the latest revision if you don't have it already) works fine.
I'm sure that you've already hammered this area, but have a second look.
11) I'm beginning to think that our inlets aren't very efficient either.
Lopresti must have some reason to make those ugly round inlets. Adding a
set of those would really screw up your paint.
12) get one of the super duper ultra cowls that some guys are using. I have
no data on them. You're on your own. I'll wager that one of these would
screw up your paint and your wallet.
Good luck,
Vince
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: FW: Summer heating woes! |
Excellent idea Tom, never ever even thought of removing the heatmuff.
And perhaps it will aid in hot air exit from a less crowded underside.
Great thought, youdaman!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Martin
To: rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 10:02 AM
Subject: RE: Rocket-List: FW: Summer heating woes!
As well as all the excellent suggestions that Vince has I have a
simple one that you can try that does not cost a cent! In the summer
months remove your heat muff and all the associated tubing. You lose
two ways with a heat muff on in the summer. One; it is still generating
heat even when you are not using it and all the air that goes through it
to the cabin in the winter is now circulating in the cowling. Two; with
out the heat muff on you have just plugged a two inch hole in your
baffles.. How hard do we work to plug every crack and crevice and then
we dump this two inch hole of air out the back.
It might not make any difference but if you have an engine
that is running warm what can it hurt to try it. I take mine off in the
spring and put it on in the fall when the passengers start to complain.
Tom
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier,
Vincent A
Sent: June 14, 2006 10:59 AM
Subject: Rocket-List: FW: Summer heating woes!
I'm no expert, but this info might be of use to someone out there in
Rocketland.
Vince
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: **** @aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:00 AM
To: Frazier, Vincent A
Subject: Summer heating woes!
As the temps climb into the low 90's here my normal 195 oil temp has
headed for 205, and the cylinders are running about 385 except number
six which is 410. **** wanted me to try his "air ramps" in front of
the 1 and 2 cylinders. I still think my air outlet under the back of
the cowling is too tight. What do you think I should try first? What
oil temp scares you? My oil temps are no problem in climb, but get
hotter and hotter as the flight progresses. I left the oil dip stick
loose on one flight and did notice the "backwards" air flow putting very
small amounts of oil out on the front of the intake ducts.
I know, move to Alaska,
Cheers,
XXXXX
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Frazier, Vincent A
Sent: Wednesday, June 14, 2006 9:55 AM
To:
Subject: RE: Summer heating woes!
**** ,
I sure wish I had a few photos of what's under your cowling!! I
suppose that these are the first things that I'd try (in order of
easiest 1st)
1) turn off the elctronic ignition advance and see if it affects the
temps. Not sure if that is possible with your setup, but my Rose system
could do that. The Rose system caused a large temp swing when it was
on, towards higher CHTs. When running on a mag only, the EGTs went up
(because the fuel was still burning as it left the cylinder.)
2) make sure that all air leaks are sealed. I used at least 2 tubes
of red RTV around the baffles. Check the flexible baffle materials that
seal to the top cowl, particularly around the case right behind the
prop. I've seen HUGE air leaks there on many planes.
3) fly only when it's raining. Just kidding.
4) remove the upper gear intersection fairings (if you can safely fly
without them holding your gear leg fairings in place) and see if you can
shim the lower cowl air outlet open farther than it normally would be.
I can do this on mine, but yours...???? Having the outlet propped open
with a couple 5/8" spacers makes a measurable difference on mine.
5) have you removed the excess flashing that is found on many cylinder
fins near the spark plugs? I'm told that it can cause higher temps.
Refer to http://vincesrocket.com/Engine%20and%20Prop.htm . It's the
first thing on the top of the page.
6) it's getting ugly now.... fly your plane to Hepler and leave it
for at least 6 months while I test and rebuild the entire cooling
system. Shouldn't cost more than $75,000 plus fuel for me to fly it
everywhere between here and Florida. I can guarantee a temperature
drop... but only during December.
7) you can add an airflow smoothing ramp around the engine mount tubes
to help smooth the exiting air. It is easy to do, cheap,
lightweight.... but may or may not help. It certainly won't hurt. Here
is a photo of mine:
http://vincesrocket.com/2004-09-08/engine%20view%2014.jpg
8) balance your injectors and run LOP per Don Rivera at Airflow
Performance. Guaranteed to lower your cruising temps.
9) install louvers on the lower cowl. I believe that this helped drop
the temps on my plane by at least 20 degrees, but I would try everything
else first. I don't really think that I needed the louvers since my
temps were fine for the way I fly the plane, local conditions, etc. I
just had to do it because I wanted to see what effect they would have!
(Same reason that I shortened the gear legs!.... experimental is more
fun)
10) what oil cooler are you using? Some claim that the SW is the
best. My Positech (get the latest revision if you don't have it
already) works fine. I'm sure that you've already hammered this area,
but have a second look.
11) I'm beginning to think that our inlets aren't very efficient
either. Lopresti must have some reason to make those ugly round inlets.
Adding a set of those would really screw up your paint.
12) get one of the super duper ultra cowls that some guys are using.
I have no data on them. You're on your own. I'll wager that one of
these would screw up your paint and your wallet.
Good luck,
Vince
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
6/14/2006
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