Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:52 AM - Clocking the prop. Real world data (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 08:20 AM - Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data (Randy Lervold)
3. 09:46 AM - Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data (Dan Checkoway)
4. 10:14 AM - Re: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
5. 04:06 PM - canopy overspray (Jim Stone)
6. 04:42 PM - Re: canopy overspray (Professor Fate)
7. 04:45 PM - Re: canopy overspray (Professor Fate)
8. 04:51 PM - Re: canopy overspray (nico css)
9. 07:49 PM - Re: canopy overspray (Rob Ray)
10. 08:19 PM - Re: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data (Rob Ray)
11. 08:46 PM - Re: canopy overspray (Aaron Villery)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Clocking the prop. Real world data |
After weeks of trial and error, I have finally reached a point where I
can safely say that clocking the prop doesn't just make a difference, it
makes ALL the difference.
Several weeks ago I set out on a mission to run to ground a vibration in
my RV-8. An IO-540 C4B5 with a Hartzell 2 blade prop. There has been a
vibration that I would characterize as objectionable. Common on big
engine Rockets and RV's. The lower the RPM, the more objectionable it
was.
I was able to instrument the plane and do some real tests and get real
results with real data. The net of it is that by changing the prop
clocking, I was able to improve my vibration by 83%. And no Im not
kidding. You can read all the details here.
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
I captured a lot of data. I sure hope others find it useful. I have a
new plane as a result.
Best,
Mike
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data |
Wow Mike, great info!!! I've long been curious about prop clocking but
there are some obstacles to just trying it as you ran into with the
crank flange bosses. Of course you're working on a 6-cylinder where most
of us are flying 4-cylinders. Anyone out there want to do some prop
clocking experimentation with an O-360?
If anyone in the Northwest wants to try some clocking experimentation I
can assist with the measurement. Our EAA chapter has a DSS Micro
MicroVibe II balancer....
http://www.eaa105.org/Programs/programs.htm#PropBalancing
Best,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
To: rocket-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
After weeks of trial and error, I have finally reached a point where I
can safely say that clocking the prop doesn't just make a difference, it
makes ALL the difference.
Several weeks ago I set out on a mission to run to ground a vibration
in my RV-8. An IO-540 C4B5 with a Hartzell 2 blade prop. There has been
a vibration that I would characterize as objectionable. Common on big
engine Rockets and RV's. The lower the RPM, the more objectionable it
was.
I was able to instrument the plane and do some real tests and get real
results with real data. The net of it is that by changing the prop
clocking, I was able to improve my vibration by 83%. And no Im not
kidding. You can read all the details here.
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
I captured a lot of data. I sure hope others find it useful. I have a
new plane as a result.
Best,
Mike
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data |
Randy, you might find this interesting:
http://www.rvproject.com/m20j/pdfs/service_bulletins/sbm20-206.pdf
On my last Mooney, I flew behind an IO-360-A3B6D. What made it an
-A3... vs an -A1... were the reindexed prop flange bushings, and thus
the clocking of the prop (per the SB listed above). That was one very
smooth engine, but I can't say I had the opportunity to fly it before
the conversion was done.
The -A1B6 I have in my RV-7 had notable vibration early on, but after I
broke it in, I had it dynamically balanced by Jim Fackler to 0.01 IPS
(http://www.rvproject.com/20040427.html). While I did originally
consider converting my -A1B6 to an -A3B6, it didn't end up being
necessary in the end. The dynamic balance took care of it.
Kahuna, I assume you dynamically balanced the prop before diving into
the reclocking project? I didn't see any notes about that on your site.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
Wow Mike, great info!!! I've long been curious about prop clocking
but there are some obstacles to just trying it as you ran into with the
crank flange bosses. Of course you're working on a 6-cylinder where most
of us are flying 4-cylinders. Anyone out there want to do some prop
clocking experimentation with an O-360?
If anyone in the Northwest wants to try some clocking experimentation
I can assist with the measurement. Our EAA chapter has a DSS Micro
MicroVibe II balancer....
http://www.eaa105.org/Programs/programs.htm#PropBalancing
Best,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
To: rocket-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
After weeks of trial and error, I have finally reached a point where
I can safely say that clocking the prop doesn't just make a difference,
it makes ALL the difference.
Several weeks ago I set out on a mission to run to ground a
vibration in my RV-8. An IO-540 C4B5 with a Hartzell 2 blade prop. There
has been a vibration that I would characterize as objectionable. Common
on big engine Rockets and RV's. The lower the RPM, the more
objectionable it was.
I was able to instrument the plane and do some real tests and get
real results with real data. The net of it is that by changing the prop
clocking, I was able to improve my vibration by 83%. And no Im not
kidding. You can read all the details here.
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
I captured a lot of data. I sure hope others find it useful. I have
a new plane as a result.
Best,
Mike
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data |
Yes it was dynamically balanced on 6 different occasions. 3 different
individuals. No weight required. .02-.04ips on each run.
Ill make a note of it on the web page.
Mike
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Checkoway
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 12:43 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
Randy, you might find this interesting:
http://www.rvproject.com/m20j/pdfs/service_bulletins/sbm20-206.pdf
On my last Mooney, I flew behind an IO-360-A3B6D. What made it an
-A3... vs an -A1... were the reindexed prop flange bushings, and thus
the clocking of the prop (per the SB listed above). That was one very
smooth engine, but I can't say I had the opportunity to fly it before
the conversion was done.
The -A1B6 I have in my RV-7 had notable vibration early on, but after I
broke it in, I had it dynamically balanced by Jim Fackler to 0.01 IPS
(http://www.rvproject.com/20040427.html). While I did originally
consider converting my -A1B6 to an -A3B6, it didn't end up being
necessary in the end. The dynamic balance took care of it.
Kahuna, I assume you dynamically balanced the prop before diving into
the reclocking project? I didn't see any notes about that on your site.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold <mailto:randy@romeolima.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
Wow Mike, great info!!! I've long been curious about prop
clocking but there are some obstacles to just trying it as you ran into
with the crank flange bosses. Of course you're working on a 6-cylinder
where most of us are flying 4-cylinders. Anyone out there want to do
some prop clocking experimentation with an O-360?
If anyone in the Northwest wants to try some clocking
experimentation I can assist with the measurement. Our EAA chapter has a
DSS Micro MicroVibe II balancer....
http://www.eaa105.org/Programs/programs.htm#PropBalancing
Best,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
<mailto:mike.stewart@us.ibm.com>
To: rocket-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
After weeks of trial and error, I have finally reached a
point where I can safely say that clocking the prop doesn't just make a
difference, it makes ALL the difference.
Several weeks ago I set out on a mission to run to
ground a vibration in my RV-8. An IO-540 C4B5 with a Hartzell 2 blade
prop. There has been a vibration that I would characterize as
objectionable. Common on big engine Rockets and RV's. The lower the RPM,
the more objectionable it was.
I was able to instrument the plane and do some real
tests and get real results with real data. The net of it is that by
changing the prop clocking, I was able to improve my vibration by 83%.
And no Im not kidding. You can read all the details here.
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
I captured a lot of data. I sure hope others find it
useful. I have a new plane as a result.
Best,
Mike
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.
c
om/Navigator?RV-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | canopy overspray |
Does anyone have a good way to remove paint overspray from the plastic
canopy? Despite my best masking job, some overspray made its way onto
the canopy.
TIA,
Jim
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: canopy overspray |
Magic Clay and Maguire's final inspection spray. You can get the clay at
any body supply shop, The spray should be available at almost any auto
parts house. Spray a liberal coat of final inspection on the plastic
then rub off the overspray with the clay, as the surface dries out apply
more spray to keep the surface wet. Make sure the surface is VERY clean
before starting. The only problem you may encounter is if you got
etching primer in there it may have etched the plastic.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Stone
To: rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: canopy overspray
Does anyone have a good way to remove paint overspray from the plastic
canopy? Despite my best masking job, some overspray made its way onto
the canopy.
TIA,
Jim
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: canopy overspray |
Next time use "Spraylat" on the canopy before painting. Spraylat is like
a skin, you paint it on the canopy with a brush or spray gun then you
peal it off when your ready to go . since it actually sticks to the
canopy nothing can get under it.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Stone
To: rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: canopy overspray
Does anyone have a good way to remove paint overspray from the plastic
canopy? Despite my best masking job, some overspray made its way onto
the canopy.
TIA,
Jim
Message 8
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| Subject: | canopy overspray |
Try to get your hands on a small quantity of n-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP).
If you google that, you should find a US company near you that'll sell it.
It's very expensive but you won't find any other paint remover that's
organic and water based. Aircraft paint flies off the aluminum in flakes
which you can pick up and dispose of without contaminating water sources.
Its only enemy is water. To deactivate it, wash it off with water. Control
the effect on the plexiglass with a rag with NMP in one hand and a rag
doused in water in the other. Wipe with NMP until the paint is gone and
immediately wipe with the water-rag. Once done, wash the area again with
water. Don't use the water sparingly.
Leave it on and your Merc overnight and it might become a shiny De Lorean
with the paint nicely peeling off like it's been sun-burnt.
Nico
_____
From: owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rocket-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Stone
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: canopy overspray
Does anyone have a good way to remove paint overspray from the plastic
canopy? Despite my best masking job, some overspray made its way onto the
canopy.
TIA,
Jim
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: canopy overspray |
Mineral Spirits works well, won't hurt the plexi...
RR
Professor Fate <vwbugin@sbcglobal.net> wrote: Magic Clay and Maguire's final
inspection spray. You can get the clay at any body supply shop, The spray
should be available at almost any auto parts house. Spray a liberal coat of
final inspection on the plastic then rub off the overspray with the clay, as
the surface dries out apply more spray to keep the surface wet. Make sure the
surface is VERY clean before starting. The only problem you may encounter is
if you got etching primer in there it may have etched the plastic.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Stone
To: rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: canopy overspray
Does anyone have a good way to remove paint overspray from the plastic canopy?
Despite my best masking job, some overspray made its way onto the canopy.
TIA,
Jim
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Rocket-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data |
Awesome! I have been trying to nail down a "pesky" harmonic in my Rocket at 2100-2400
rpm. After a dynamic balance, clean fuel injectors, new plugs and re-timing
the mag and checking electronic ignition, vibration continues. Sounds like
this is the ticket...thanks!
RR
Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote: @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in;
margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; } P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN:
0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt;
MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:
12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman" } A:link { COLOR:
blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION:
underline } A:visited { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline
} SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline } SPAN.EmailStyle17
{ COLOR: windowtext; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-compose
} DIV.Section1 { page: Section1 } Randy, you might find this
interesting:
http://www.rvproject.com/m20j/pdfs/service_bulletins/sbm20-206.pdf
On my last Mooney, I flew behind an IO-360-A3B6D. What made it an -A3... vs
an -A1... were the reindexed prop flange bushings, and thus the clocking of the
prop (per the SB listed above). That was one very smooth engine, but I can't
say I had the opportunity to fly it before the conversion was done.
The -A1B6 I have in my RV-7 had notable vibration early on, but after I broke it in, I had it dynamically balanced by Jim Fackler to 0.01 IPS (http://www.rvproject.com/20040427.html). While I did originally consider converting my -A1B6 to an -A3B6, it didn't end up being necessary in the end. The dynamic balance took care of it.
Kahuna, I assume you dynamically balanced the prop before diving into the reclocking
project? I didn't see any notes about that on your site.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
Wow Mike, great info!!! I've long been curious about prop clocking but there
are some obstacles to just trying it as you ran into with the crank flange
bosses. Of course you're working on a 6-cylinder where most of us are
flying 4-cylinders. Anyone out there want to do some prop clocking experimentation
with an O-360?
If anyone in the Northwest wants to try some clocking experimentation I can assist with the measurement. Our EAA chapter has a DSS Micro MicroVibe II balancer.... http://www.eaa105.org/Programs/programs.htm#PropBalancing
Best,
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)
To: rocket-list@matronics.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Clocking the prop. Real world data
After weeks of trial and error, I have finally reached a point where
I can safely say that clocking the prop doesnt just make a difference,
it makes ALL the difference.
Several weeks ago I set out on a mission to run to ground a vibration
in my RV-8. An IO-540 C4B5 with a Hartzell 2 blade prop. There has been
a vibration that I would characterize as objectionable. Common on big engine
Rockets and RVs. The lower the RPM, the more objectionable it was.
I was able to instrument the plane and do some real tests and get real results with real data. The net of it is that by changing the prop clocking, I was able to improve my vibration by 83%. And no Im not kidding. You can read all the details here. http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
I captured a lot of data. I sure hope others find it useful. I have a
new plane as a result.
Best,
Mike
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: canopy overspray |
Kerosene might do the trick as well. Had to get 15 year old masking tape
off a -6 canopy.
Aaron Villery
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Ray
To: rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: Rocket-List: canopy overspray
Mineral Spirits works well, won't hurt the plexi...
RR
Professor Fate <vwbugin@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Magic Clay and Maguire's final inspection spray. You can get the
clay at any body supply shop, The spray should be available at almost
any auto parts house. Spray a liberal coat of final inspection on the
plastic then rub off the overspray with the clay, as the surface dries
out apply more spray to keep the surface wet. Make sure the surface is
VERY clean before starting. The only problem you may encounter is if you
got etching primer in there it may have etched the plastic.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Stone
To: rocket-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Rocket-List: canopy overspray
Does anyone have a good way to remove paint overspray from the
plastic canopy? Despite my best masking job, some overspray made its
way onto the canopy.
TIA,
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
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