Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:38 PM - Starting problem- solved (Jim Stone)
2. 05:58 PM - Re: Starting problem- solved (Lee Logan)
3. 06:23 PM - Re: Starting problem- solved (Vern Little)
Message 1
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Subject: | Starting problem- solved |
I pasted my original post below describing my starting problem for your ref
erence.
I would like to report I have found the solution to my problem. After a ver
y thorough troubleshooting effort throughout the electro air system and my a
ircraft wiring, I was able to isolate the problem to the magnetic sensor. O
f course I had to remove the propeller to get access to the sensor and the c
rank shaft timing wheel or CSTW. Even though my existing sensor omed-out in
the normal range, it apparently was giving a false positive. I replaced th
e magnetic sensor, propeller and the engine start experience return to norma
l. Both cold and hot starts are similar to the starts I experienced before r
emoving the impulse magneto. Thanks for your help, hope to meet you guys in
the near future.
Jim Stone
.
I'm looking for ideas to improve my start up both cold and hot.
I have an IO 540 C4 B5 with a non impulse mag on the upper plugs and Electro
Air Electronic ignition (latest version on the lower plugs), and all aviatio
n plugs.
I removed the slick impulse Mag a year ago after the Slick Rep advised me to
"get it off that engine before it comes apart and stops your engine".
I have been starting with just the ElectroAir and realized it is not my star
ting technique as much as it is a lack of spark. ElectroAir told me that th
e system has to measure a pretty fast cranking speed for what seems like a l
ong time before it produces a spark. This cranking pulls the battery voltag
e down and if the voltage to the ElectroAir controller falls below 11 volts,
it no longer produces a spark. Of course I have no indication of no spark o
ther than the obvious no start result. So with some luck the batteries hold
up long enough tilI I get the mixture right, if not, recharge and try late
r.
I'm considering the slick start but it requires a different mag from Slick a
nd a coupler which all together cost 2k.. Seems like a big price to pay for
better start performance, but I'm considering it.
Does anyone have a proven solution?
TIA,
Jim Stone
Louisville Kentucky
HR 11
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Starting problem- solved |
Wasn't that your new paint job on VAF today? If so---WOW!
Lee...
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Starting problem- solved |
Thanks for the explanation. BTW, I put a blast tube on my pickup. I took o
ne apart to see how they are made and concluded that keeping them cool would
help.
Vern
=====
Vernon R. Little | President, Vx Aviation
> On Aug 27, 2015, at 5:38 PM, Jim Stone <jrstone54@att.net> wrote:
>
> I pasted my original post below describing my starting problem for your r
eference.
> I would like to report I have found the solution to my problem. After a v
ery thorough troubleshooting effort throughout the electro air system and my
aircraft wiring, I was able to isolate the problem to the magnetic sensor.
Of course I had to remove the propeller to get access to the sensor and the
crank shaft timing wheel or CSTW. Even though my existing sensor omed-out i
n the normal range, it apparently was giving a false positive. I replaced t
he magnetic sensor, propeller and the engine start experience return to norm
al. Both cold and hot starts are similar to the starts I experienced before
removing the impulse magneto. Thanks for your help, hope to meet you guys i
n the near future.
> Jim Stone
> .
>
> I'm looking for ideas to improve my start up both cold and hot.
> I have an IO 540 C4 B5 with a non impulse mag on the upper plugs and Elect
roAir Electronic ignition (latest version on the lower plugs), and all aviat
ion plugs.
> I removed the slick impulse Mag a year ago after the Slick Rep advised me t
o "get it off that engine before it comes apart and stops your engine".
> I have been starting with just the ElectroAir and realized it is not my st
arting technique as much as it is a lack of spark. ElectroAir told me that t
he system has to measure a pretty fast cranking speed for what seems like a l
ong time before it produces a spark. This cranking pulls the battery voltag
e down and if the voltage to the ElectroAir controller falls below 11 volts,
it no longer produces a spark. Of course I have no indication of no spark o
ther than the obvious no start result. So with some luck the batteries hold
up long enough tilI I get the mixture right, if not, recharge and try late
r.
> I'm considering the slick start but it requires a different mag from Slick
and a coupler which all together cost 2k.. Seems like a big price to pay f
or better start performance, but I'm considering it.
> Does anyone have a proven solution?
> TIA,
> Jim Stone
> Louisville Kentucky
> HR 11
>
>
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>
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