RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive

Mon 06/05/06


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:00 AM - Re: Re : oil level (David Key)
     2. 07:40 AM - Re: Re : oil level (=?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=)
     3. 08:38 AM - Re: Re : oil level (Thom Riddle)
     4. 08:55 AM - Re: Re : oil level (LISA TURNER)
     5. 01:37 PM - 912 Rough running on either left or right mag -- smooth,on both (D Wysong)
     6. 04:57 PM - Re: Re : oil level (=?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?=)
     7. 08:33 PM - 912 Rough running on either left or right mag -- smooth on both (Jon Croke)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:00:08 AM PST US
    From: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Re : oil level
    --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com> Rotax says to turn the prop before you check the oil level. >From: <joeing701@internet.is> >To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re : oil level >Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 06:42:58 +0000 > >--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: <joeing701@internet.is> > >Hello list members. > >All this talk about oil level has confused me some. >When you check the oil on a hot engine that has normal operating temps, do >you >just check the dipstip without doing the turn by hand method to wait for >the >slurp sound in the oil container? >If I check the oil level on hot engine, the level is low, but if I do two >or >three turns for the slurping sound in the container, the level is within >the >range on the stick. >Which is correct? > >Thank you, >Johann G. >Iceland. > > > Gilles, > > > > > > You are correct that the TOTAL oil supply depends on the particular > > > installation due to length of oil lines and oil cooler capacity. > > > However, the oil cooler is normally not drained during oil/filter >change. > > > > > > The magnetic drain plug is very important to inspect at every oil > > > change. This is the first line of defense for large chunks of ferrous > > > metal. You can't check and clean it without removing it. > > > > > > Please post a link to or copy and paste the specific Rotax SB that > > > states the crank case drain plug is not to be removed during oil > > > change. That is counter to everything I've every studied in power > > > plant mechanics or ever encountered in the field. > > > > > Thom, > > > > I'm afraid your post got through unnoticed until today. > > I agree with your statement about the importance of checking metal >particle > > at each oil change. This is why Rotax calls for opening and inspecting >the > > oil filter at each oil change. > > > > I'd say there are two plugs in the crankcase : the lower banjo is part >of > > the return circuit to the oil tank, and as such should not be removed >during > > ordinary oil change, according to SI-912-010 R1. > > The maintenance manual specifies that for changing oil, the oil TANK >plug > > must be used. > > > > There is also a magnetic plug between cylinder #2 and reduction gear >case. > > The maintenance manual calls for inspection every 200 h and 300 h (apart >from > > the 25 h inspection). > > > > Regards, > > Gilles Thesee > > Grenoble, France > > http://contrails.free.fr > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List > > http://wiki.matronics.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:40:25 AM PST US
    From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701@internet.is>
    Subject: Re: Re : oil level
    --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701@internet.is> Thank you David. That was my understanding too, but I saw a message on the list where it was done the other way, i.e. after shut down, just check the warm engine without the turning. Also someone mentioned that if you turn too many turns, the container can overfill. This is the reason for my question. Thanks for clearing that one, David. Johann G. David Key wrote: > --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com> > > Rotax says to turn the prop before you check the oil level. > > >> From: <joeing701@internet.is> >> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re : oil level >> Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 06:42:58 +0000 >> >> --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: <joeing701@internet.is> >> >> Hello list members. >> >> All this talk about oil level has confused me some. >> When you check the oil on a hot engine that has normal operating >> temps, do you >> just check the dipstip without doing the turn by hand method to wait >> for the >> slurp sound in the oil container? >> If I check the oil level on hot engine, the level is low, but if I do >> two or >> three turns for the slurping sound in the container, the level is >> within the >> range on the stick. >> Which is correct? >> >> Thank you, >> Johann G. >> Iceland. >>


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:38:44 AM PST US
    From: Thom Riddle <jtriddle@adelphia.net>
    Subject: Re: Re : oil level
    --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: Thom Riddle <jtriddle@adelphia.net> Johann, If checking the oil right after flight, there is no need to turn the prop because it has been turning quite fast during the flight. The oil drains away from the oil tank after shutting down the engine very slowly so "turning the prop" is required to "refill" the oil tank to its correct level, only after sitting still for some time (hours, not minutes). Thom in Buffalo


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:55:28 AM PST US
    From: LISA TURNER <lisaturner@prodigy.net>
    Subject: Re: Re : oil level
    This is a good list to be on. You do not need to turn the prop if you've just gotten back from flying (run the engine). The mag plug is very difficult to get out the first time but I have a trick when it comes to that (take the torx driver and insert into the plug and wap with a hammer), it'll come out then. After the first 100 hours you want to look at and clean this mag plug and then every 100 hours. It WILL have crap on it. The only way to tell if something bad is happening in the engine is with an oil filter cutaway inspection which you will do every other change, i.e., every 50 hours. There will also be some crap there, but not big stuff! You can send the oil out for analysis too - overkill I would say if you follow Rotax Operating Procedures and especially to prime the system before every start. ----- Original Message ---- From: David Key <dhkey@msn.com> Sent: Monday, June 5, 2006 4:58:42 AM Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re : oil level --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "David Key" <dhkey@msn.com> Rotax says to turn the prop before you check the oil level. >From: <joeing701@internet.is> >To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re : oil level >Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2006 06:42:58 +0000 > >--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: <joeing701@internet.is> > >Hello list members. > >All this talk about oil level has confused me some. >When you check the oil on a hot engine that has normal operating temps, do >you >just check the dipstip without doing the turn by hand method to wait for >the >slurp sound in the oil container? >If I check the oil level on hot engine, the level is low, but if I do two >or >three turns for the slurping sound in the container, the level is within >the >range on the stick. >Which is correct? > >Thank you, >Johann G. >Iceland. > > > Gilles, > > > > > > You are correct that the TOTAL oil supply depends on the particular > > > installation due to length of oil lines and oil cooler capacity. > > > However, the oil cooler is normally not drained during oil/filter >change. > > > > > > The magnetic drain plug is very important to inspect at every oil > > > change. This is the first line of defense for large chunks of ferrous > > > metal. You can't check and clean it without removing it. > > > > > > Please post a link to or copy and paste the specific Rotax SB that > > > states the crank case drain plug is not to be removed during oil > > > change. That is counter to everything I've every studied in power > > > plant mechanics or ever encountered in the field. > > > > > Thom, > > > > I'm afraid your post got through unnoticed until today. > > I agree with your statement about the importance of checking metal >particle > > at each oil change. This is why Rotax calls for opening and inspecting >the > > oil filter at each oil change. > > > > I'd say there are two plugs in the crankcase : the lower banjo is part >of > > the return circuit to the oil tank, and as such should not be removed >during > > ordinary oil change, according to SI-912-010 R1. > > The maintenance manual specifies that for changing oil, the oil TANK >plug > > must be used. > > > > There is also a magnetic plug between cylinder #2 and reduction gear >case. > > The maintenance manual calls for inspection every 200 h and 300 h (apart >from > > the 25 h inspection). > > > > Regards, > > Gilles Thesee > > Grenoble, France > > http://contrails.free.fr > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List > > http://wiki.matronics.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 01:37:49 PM PST US
    From: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com>
    Subject: 912 Rough running on either left or right mag -- smooth,on
    both --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: D Wysong <hdwysong@gmail.com> Hello Jon - We experienced large ign drops (> 650 RPM) and EGT problems on our 914. Turns out our mixture (as delivered from the factory) was too lean. After setting both carb needles one notch richer everything operated within spec. We're hot/humid down here (Texas), and the Rotax expert we talked to mentioned that the nominal carb needle (mixture) settings would need to be set per the prevailing weather in your location. Perhaps you're teetering on the edge between one mixture setting and another? Note that the Rotax purists will probably scold you (using an Austrian accent!) for saying left or right. We have a top (A) and a bottom (B) ignition module... regardless of what the key switch says. ;-) D ------------ > Time: 07:49:53 PM PST US > From: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com> > Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 Rough running on either left or right mag -- smooth > on both > > --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com> > > Would anyone have an idea on the following problem: > > I get about a 400 rpm drop and a definite roughness (like a cylinder > missing) when performing a mag check... identical reaction for left AND > right... but when using both mags the engine seems to run just fine and run > smooth... I still get full power and have been flying... but this behavior > conerns me... didnt use to be this way... Rotax manual calls for a max 300 > rpm drop.. > > Using a 80hp 912 > > Thanks for any suggestions...


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:57:52 PM PST US
    From: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701@internet.is>
    Subject: Re: Re : oil level
    --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_Gestur?= <joeing701@internet.is> Hello Thom. Thank you for clarifying that for me. According to that method, I will need to add some oil to my system. I will use that in the future, satisfied knowing that my engine has the correct amount of oil. Thanks, Johann G. do not archive Thom Riddle wrote: > --> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: Thom Riddle > <jtriddle@adelphia.net> > > Johann, > > If checking the oil right after flight, there is no need to turn the > prop because it has been turning quite fast during the flight. The oil > drains away from the oil tank after shutting down the engine very > slowly so "turning the prop" is required to "refill" the oil tank to > its correct level, only after sitting still for some time (hours, not > minutes). > > Thom in Buffalo > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 08:33:57 PM PST US
    From: "Jon Croke" <jon@joncroke.com>
    Subject: 912 Rough running on either left or right mag -- smooth
    on both D, I think you're on the right track... I balanced the carbs today, no difference.......changed the spark plugs... no diff... and then redid the plug wire boots... no change. Since I have no EGT gauges, I cannot verify your idea on my engine... BUT, I will have a friend, tomorrow, that can move the choke lever, at the carb, one carb at a time -- and see if that smooths out the engine. I know the choke works only when at idle, so that is where I will check. I am guessing that (based on your analysis) I have a carb that is leaned out because of dirt in a jet... so something similar.. but which one?! Also, maybe a heat gun aimed at the exhaust of each cylinder will show me if one side of the engine is running lean... NOW I know why some people have EGT gauges on their engine! (s o much for that altitude compensating Bing!) THanks for your ideas! Will let you know what fixes this thing. Jon Hello Jon - We experienced large ign drops (> 650 RPM) and EGT problems on our 914. Turns out our mixture (as delivered from the factory) was too lean. After setting both carb needles one notch richer everything operated within spec. We're hot/humid down here (Texas), and the Rotax expert we talked to mentioned that the nominal carb needle (mixture) settings would need to be set per the prevailing weather in your location. Perhaps you're teetering on the edge between one mixture setting and another? Note that the Rotax purists will probably scold you (using an Austrian accent!) for saying left or right. We have a top (A) and a bottom (B) ignition module... regardless of what the key switch says. ;-) D I get about a 400 rpm drop and a definite roughness (like a cylinder missing) when performing a mag check... identical reaction for left AND right... but when using both mags the engine seems to run just fine and run smooth... I still get full power and have been flying... but this behavior conerns me... didnt use to be this way... Rotax manual calls for a max 300 rpm drop.. Using a 80hp 912 Thanks for any suggestions...




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