Today's Message Index:
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1. 11:04 AM - Rotax 582 Start Current (Guy Buchanan)
2. 01:04 PM - Re: Rotax 582 Start Current (NYTerminat@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rotax 582 Start Current |
The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?
Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.
I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 Start Current |
Guy,
The wire to the starter motor should not go through the shunt, the load for
everything else goes through the shunt.( ignition,lights,radios,flap
motors,trim motors, etc.)
I am surprised that you were able to get any starts at all without blowing
the shunt. If you want more info on wiring, go to the aeroelectric.com website.
Bob Spudis
N701ZX/CH-701/912uls
In a message dated 2/8/2007 2:06:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
bnn@nethere.com writes:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com>
The short question is: What is the approximate start current for a Rotax 582?
Why do I ask? Because today I fried the shunt on my 30A ammeter. This
shunt operates in line between the battery and starter.
I've noticed lately that starting has been slower and I attributed it
to lower battery capacity. Today I checked the voltage at 13.1V, then
tried starting. I got three very slow turn-overs followed by a click,
then nothing. It turns out the click was the shunt separating. I've
got probably 100 starts on this system over the last year. I did a
resistance check of the starter across the "big" wires and got only
0.3 ohms. Is it possible the starter is shorted? How can I tell if
the starter is bad? Do I dare simply attach the battery to the
starter directly to see if it works? I could also simply by-pass the
shunt to see if it works, then I could use the start switch. I'm
concerned, however, that if the starter is shorted I could blow the
battery. Is that a possibility?
Thanks,
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 100% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.
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