Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:02 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Roger Lee)
2. 09:05 AM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Roger Lee)
3. 11:19 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Hugh McKay III)
4. 01:03 PM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Jack Kuehn)
5. 01:06 PM - Coolant flammability tests (Gilles Thesee)
6. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Duncan & Ami McFadyean)
7. 02:58 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Roger Lee)
8. 03:23 PM - Re: Coolant flammability tests (Roger Lee)
9. 04:02 PM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (Steve Crimm)
10. 05:36 PM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (David Estapa)
11. 06:09 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting (rampil)
12. 06:13 PM - Re: Coolant flammability tests (rampil)
13. 06:51 PM - Re: Coolant flammability tests (Roger Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Hi Hugh,
With a brand new engine you will need to set the idle rpm. 1400 rpm is way too
low. It should idle at approximately 1800rpm. 1400 will cause excessive vibration
to the gearbox and eventually cause you clutch to start slipping. This is
taught in all the Rotax classes. You can download the "Light Maint" and the "Heavy
Maint" manuals on the Rotax/Kodiak web site. It is listed under "tech info".
They explain how to do it.
It is not hard. It is very important that your carb run in sync. You don't want
the right side running at 4800 rpm and the left side running at 4900 rpm. They
are then fighting and opposing each other. The manual sync will get you in the
ballpark. The pneumatic sync will put you dead on for idle and at full rpm
sync. Some people aren't very good at keeping up with this, but it is important.
Yes your engine will run without doing this, but you paid a lot of money for
a fine engine. You should treat it as such and you want it to last and be healthy.
Go to the manuals and they will explain and/or you can call me and I will explain
the process and walk you through it.
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
520-574-1080 home
520-791-5286 for work May 5th. up until 7pm tonight.
p.s.
you will need aset of vacumm gages. easy and cheap to make.
I think there is a picture here on the forum.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110992#110992
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Hi Hugh,
Carb sync tool picture
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110993#110993
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_1501_110.jpg
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Roger, Thom, George:
Many thanks for the advice. I suspected exactly what you have described. I
have the Rotax "Line Maintenance" Manual as well as the vacuum gauge kit
(sold by Lockwood aviation), and will perform the mechanical and pneumatic
carb. synchronization per the Rotax Maint. Manual instructions with all of
your advice taken into consideration. Many thanks again!
Hugh McKay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:02 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting
Hi Hugh,
With a brand new engine you will need to set the idle rpm. 1400 rpm is way
too low. It should idle at approximately 1800rpm. 1400 will cause excessive
vibration to the gearbox and eventually cause you clutch to start slipping.
This is taught in all the Rotax classes. You can download the "Light Maint"
and the "Heavy Maint" manuals on the Rotax/Kodiak web site. It is listed
under "tech info". They explain how to do it.
It is not hard. It is very important that your carb run in sync. You don't
want the right side running at 4800 rpm and the left side running at 4900
rpm. They are then fighting and opposing each other. The manual sync will
get you in the ballpark. The pneumatic sync will put you dead on for idle
and at full rpm sync. Some people aren't very good at keeping up with this,
but it is important. Yes your engine will run without doing this, but you
paid a lot of money for a fine engine. You should treat it as such and you
want it to last and be healthy.
Go to the manuals and they will explain and/or you can call me and I will
explain the process and walk you through it.
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
520-574-1080 home
520-791-5286 for work May 5th. up until 7pm tonight.
p.s.
you will need aset of vacumm gages. easy and cheap to make.
I think there is a picture here on the forum.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110992#110992
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
As far as balancing the carbs, Phil Lockwood wrote two articles in the
EAA light sport magazine (or whatever the titles was/is) on the topic
that is much easier to follow and contains more practical information
than the Rotax Manual. Both together comprise a really complete
manual. I photocopied this series of articles and have them with my
engine documentation together with all the service notes and updates
from Rotax that apply to my enging. This has been covered before in
this forum and you can probably look up the dates publication of the
articles. I don't have it right here!
Jack
Hugh McKay III wrote:
>
> Roger, Thom, George:
>
> Many thanks for the advice. I suspected exactly what you have described. I
> have the Rotax "Line Maintenance" Manual as well as the vacuum gauge kit
> (sold by Lockwood aviation), and will perform the mechanical and pneumatic
> carb. synchronization per the Rotax Maint. Manual instructions with all of
> your advice taken into consideration. Many thanks again!
>
> Hugh McKay
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger Lee
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:02 PM
> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting
>
>
> Hi Hugh,
>
> With a brand new engine you will need to set the idle rpm. 1400 rpm is way
> too low. It should idle at approximately 1800rpm. 1400 will cause excessive
> vibration to the gearbox and eventually cause you clutch to start slipping.
> This is taught in all the Rotax classes. You can download the "Light Maint"
> and the "Heavy Maint" manuals on the Rotax/Kodiak web site. It is listed
> under "tech info". They explain how to do it.
> It is not hard. It is very important that your carb run in sync. You don't
> want the right side running at 4800 rpm and the left side running at 4900
> rpm. They are then fighting and opposing each other. The manual sync will
> get you in the ballpark. The pneumatic sync will put you dead on for idle
> and at full rpm sync. Some people aren't very good at keeping up with this,
> but it is important. Yes your engine will run without doing this, but you
> paid a lot of money for a fine engine. You should treat it as such and you
> want it to last and be healthy.
>
> Go to the manuals and they will explain and/or you can call me and I will
> explain the process and walk you through it.
>
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> 520-574-1080 home
> 520-791-5286 for work May 5th. up until 7pm tonight.
>
> p.s.
> you will need aset of vacumm gages. easy and cheap to make.
> I think there is a picture here on the forum.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110992#110992
>
>
>
--
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| Subject: | Coolant flammability tests |
Hi all,
Rotax drivers may be interested in the flammability tests conducted by
Europa builders Ron Parigoris and Wayne Gutschow on engine coolants and
fluids.
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_burn_baby_burn_en.php
Regards,
Gilles Thesee
Grenoble, France
http://contrails.free.fr
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Has anyone tried the Twinmax electronic carb balancer (which electronically
senses differential pressure between the two intake manifolds) and how does
it compare to the mechanical tube-type instruments?
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Kuehn" <jkuehn@mountaintime.myrf.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 9:03 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting
> <jkuehn@mountaintime.myrf.net>
>
> As far as balancing the carbs, Phil Lockwood wrote two articles in the EAA
> light sport magazine (or whatever the titles was/is) on the topic that is
> much easier to follow and contains more practical information than the
> Rotax Manual. Both together comprise a really complete manual. I
> photocopied this series of articles and have them with my engine
> documentation together with all the service notes and updates from Rotax
> that apply to my enging. This has been covered before in this forum and
> you can probably look up the dates publication of the articles. I don't
> have it right here!
>
> Jack
>
> Hugh McKay III wrote:
>> <hgmckay@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Roger, Thom, George:
>>
>> Many thanks for the advice. I suspected exactly what you have described.
>> I
>> have the Rotax "Line Maintenance" Manual as well as the vacuum gauge kit
>> (sold by Lockwood aviation), and will perform the mechanical and
>> pneumatic
>> carb. synchronization per the Rotax Maint. Manual instructions with all
>> of
>> your advice taken into consideration. Many thanks again!
>>
>> Hugh McKay
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger
>> Lee
>> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:02 PM
>> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting
>>
>> <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Hi Hugh,
>>
>> With a brand new engine you will need to set the idle rpm. 1400 rpm is
>> way
>> too low. It should idle at approximately 1800rpm. 1400 will cause
>> excessive
>> vibration to the gearbox and eventually cause you clutch to start
>> slipping.
>> This is taught in all the Rotax classes. You can download the "Light
>> Maint"
>> and the "Heavy Maint" manuals on the Rotax/Kodiak web site. It is listed
>> under "tech info". They explain how to do it.
>> It is not hard. It is very important that your carb run in sync. You
>> don't
>> want the right side running at 4800 rpm and the left side running at 4900
>> rpm. They are then fighting and opposing each other. The manual sync will
>> get you in the ballpark. The pneumatic sync will put you dead on for idle
>> and at full rpm sync. Some people aren't very good at keeping up with
>> this,
>> but it is important. Yes your engine will run without doing this, but you
>> paid a lot of money for a fine engine. You should treat it as such and
>> you
>> want it to last and be healthy.
>>
>> Go to the manuals and they will explain and/or you can call me and I will
>> explain the process and walk you through it.
>>
>> Roger Lee
>> Tucson, Az.
>> 520-574-1080 home
>> 520-791-5286 for work May 5th. up until 7pm tonight.
>>
>> p.s.
>> you will need aset of vacumm gages. easy and cheap to make.
>> I think there is a picture here on the forum.
>>
>> --------
>> Roger Lee
>> Tucson, Az.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=110992#110992
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
I don't particularlly like the tube type because you have to keep them oriented
up and should be verticle and not leaned over. I like the dial type like in the
picture. These can be any orientation and are easy to read. These are just
gages you can pick up at an auto parts or online. The gages depending on how much
you want to spend are $19-$30. Mine are liquid filled. The rest of the gage
parts set is something you can pick up for about $10-$12 at your local hardware
store. You do not need any special vacumm gages to do this carb sync. Something
easy to use and read is the best.
Once you do a carb balance you will find it quite easy from then on. Just remember
that the gage with the highest vacumm is the carb getting the least fuel.
If you need more rpm adjust the carb with the most vacumm which gives it more
fuel and the vacumm will reduce (i.e. vacumm is 12, adjust the carb to get more
fuel and the vacumm goes down let's say to 10). If you need to decrease rpm
then pick the carb with the least vacumm and raise its vacumm number by reducing
the amount of fuel it gets. These adjustments are done by turning the Bowden
cable. That's the main throttle cable that comes into the carb when you use
your throttle. You need to use the idle stop screw and the vacumm gages to make
sure your idle is set at it's correct rpm and the carbs are equal when they
are at idle.
This doesn't tell you how to do it, but maybe a little insite as to what is going
on when you look at the gages or your trying to set the idle when the gages
are connected.
Again if you have any questions call me anytime.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111052#111052
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant flammability tests |
Hi Gilles,
How are you?
If I remember right the big issue was Evans coolant?
We discussed this a while back. Bottom line is how high the temps have to get to
cause it to burn and if it is in any type of fire it is a very limited quanity.
Why worry if there is a fire as you have fuel and oil, all the rubber and
plastic in the engine that is far worse and burns at lower temps. When you really
compare Evans to the other things in the engine compartment that burn it's
just at the bottom of the list and you have much bigger problems to worry about
if there is a fire. Some things look good by themselves or on paper, but when
you include the whole picture it's not worth worrying about. I'm a Fireman
and HazMat Tech. by trade for the last 28 years. I have been to, God only knows
how many car fires and I have been to aircraft fires. Knowing what is in the
general area to burn and at what temps. puts Evans Coolant at the bottom of my
list. The only thing hot enoug in our engine is the exhaust manifold. They are
worried about Evans, I think they should be more worried about fuel. It will
lite off at a much lower temp. and it will burn up to 2000F. All the rubber
parts and some plastic will lite off if it falls against the exhaust manifold.
There is a lot more of this stuff to start a fire. There is very little coolant
in your engine. Tell them to test all the other components in the engine compartment.
You may not want to fly then. Human nature usually only carries things
out to a certain point and then we quit looking past that point. Follow it
past the Evans to everything else and then this single point they make isn't
as big. The bottom line is any engine fire reguardless of the cause can be deadly.
Good maint. scheduling and checking your equipment can go a long way to saving
your hide. Don't be cheap is what I tell people when it coes to parts and
maint. . The part may look good on the outside, but it's waiting to bite you
on the backside if you neglect it or don't replace it.
I don't mean to upset anyone in any way, sound like a broken record or a lecturer,
but if all I had to worry about was Evans then my life is simple. I have used
Evans now for 4 years and have been happy with its performance.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111055#111055
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Is there anyone on the forum in the Atlanta area that can do the idle and
carb sync?
I am in need of both.
Thanks,
Steve Crimm
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 17:58
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting
--> <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
I don't particularlly like the tube type because you have to keep them
oriented up and should be verticle and not leaned over. I like the dial type
like in the picture. These can be any orientation and are easy to read.
These are just gages you can pick up at an auto parts or online. The gages
depending on how much you want to spend are $19-$30. Mine are liquid filled.
The rest of the gage parts set is something you can pick up for about
$10-$12 at your local hardware store. You do not need any special vacumm
gages to do this carb sync. Something easy to use and read is the best.
Once you do a carb balance you will find it quite easy from then on. Just
remember that the gage with the highest vacumm is the carb getting the least
fuel. If you need more rpm adjust the carb with the most vacumm which gives
it more fuel and the vacumm will reduce (i.e. vacumm is 12, adjust the carb
to get more fuel and the vacumm goes down let's say to 10). If you need to
decrease rpm then pick the carb with the least vacumm and raise its vacumm
number by reducing the amount of fuel it gets. These adjustments are done by
turning the Bowden cable. That's the main throttle cable that comes into the
carb when you use your throttle. You need to use the idle stop screw and the
vacumm gages to make sure your idle is set at it's correct rpm and the carbs
are equal when they are at idle.
This doesn't tell you how to do it, but maybe a little insite as to what is
going on when you look at the gages or your trying to set the idle when the
gages are connected.
Again if you have any questions call me anytime.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111052#111052
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Steve, where in Atlanta are you? I live in Woodstock, but plane is based
in Calhoun. This morning we balanced carbs on a Zenith 701 with a 912ULS.
We balanced carbs on my Kitfox Series 5, 912ULS a couple of months ago. I
have the gauages.
C. David Estapa
Woodstock, GA
Kitfox 5, N97DE, 912ULS
Do not archive
On Sat, 5 May 2007 19:01:31 -0400 "Steve Crimm"
<steve.crimm@stephenscott.com> writes:
> <steve.crimm@stephenscott.com>
>
> Is there anyone on the forum in the Atlanta area that can do the
> idle and
> carb sync?
>
> I am in need of both.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Crimm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Roger Lee
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 17:58
> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting
>
> --> <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
>
> I don't particularlly like the tube type because you have to keep
> them
> oriented up and should be verticle and not leaned over. I like the
> dial type
> like in the picture. These can be any orientation and are easy to
> read.
> These are just gages you can pick up at an auto parts or online. The
> gages
> depending on how much you want to spend are $19-$30. Mine are liquid
> filled.
> The rest of the gage parts set is something you can pick up for
> about
> $10-$12 at your local hardware store. You do not need any special
> vacumm
> gages to do this carb sync. Something easy to use and read is the
> best.
>
> Once you do a carb balance you will find it quite easy from then on.
> Just
> remember that the gage with the highest vacumm is the carb getting
> the least
> fuel. If you need more rpm adjust the carb with the most vacumm
> which gives
> it more fuel and the vacumm will reduce (i.e. vacumm is 12, adjust
> the carb
> to get more fuel and the vacumm goes down let's say to 10). If you
> need to
> decrease rpm then pick the carb with the least vacumm and raise its
> vacumm
> number by reducing the amount of fuel it gets. These adjustments are
> done by
> turning the Bowden cable. That's the main throttle cable that comes
> into the
> carb when you use your throttle. You need to use the idle stop screw
> and the
> vacumm gages to make sure your idle is set at it's correct rpm and
> the carbs
> are equal when they are at idle.
>
> This doesn't tell you how to do it, but maybe a little insite as to
> what is
> going on when you look at the gages or your trying to set the idle
> when the
> gages are connected.
>
> Again if you have any questions call me anytime.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111052#111052
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Idle Speed Setting |
Just to re-iterate what Roger said.
Idle speed should be above 1800 if you hope to preserve the function
and integrity of your gearbox. Low RPM apparently allows a sort of
torsional resonance in the dog gears which will chew them up in short
order
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111074#111074
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant flammability tests |
Hi Roger
Are you using Evans out there in Tucson because the ambient temp
on the tarmac is already above the boiling point of water-based coolant?
(;-)
At least it seemed that way to me the last time I spent a day at Davis-
Motham and at Pima
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111075#111075
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Coolant flammability tests |
Hi Rampil,
No actually I use it because the regualr 50/50 can get into hot spots or poor circulation
areas within the heads and get too hot and vaporize. This causes a
vapor space and causes overheating in or around the head. This softens the metal
and causes leaks and warpping. Regular 50/50 boils around 275F or so, and Evans
boils at 375F. This also helps the engine from puking coolant all over the
ground when you are stuck on the tarmac for a while idling or long taxi's and
poor air movement for cooling. The articles written by several authors say you
should use Evans unless you are having an engine over heating problem. Evans
can make you run about 30F warmer, but if it doesn't over heat, so what. If
I was constantly over heating I might drop back to 50/50. Evans will not leave
deposits in the system or corrode parts because it doesn't have any water. You
should use it unless you are always over heating to drop the temps. 30F, but
you are a head of the game if you do not over heat and you use Evans.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=111083#111083
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