RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive

Mon 06/25/07


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:46 AM - Re: egt temp (Dave Grosvenor - DreamWings)
     2. 03:30 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Cooling issue / Zodiac CH 601 HDS (Gilles Thesee)
     3. 06:17 AM - Re: egt temp (Noel Loveys)
     4. 10:25 PM - 912 starting problems (markdonahue)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:46:17 AM PST US
    From: "Dave Grosvenor - DreamWings" <dave@dreamwings.co.za>
    Subject: Re: egt temp
    Hi Paul It also depends on the location of your EGT probes. The installation manual specifies a normal temperature of 1470, max of 1560, and 1620 at max at take-off power. This is with the EGT probes mounted 2.75" from the exhaust flange. Dave


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:30:26 AM PST US
    From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
    Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Cooling issue / Zodiac CH 601 HDS
    > Hi Giles, > > Your right about the temps if he said they were Celcius, but he said they were F. Most of us here in the US run our gages in F, but you have the option of using C on a lot of gage sets. > > Here is an easy, do it in your head, formula for converting C to F. > Roger, Thank you for your message. Yes the temps in question were said to be F, but as they did not seem to make sense, the possibility of a unit confusion came to my mind. Re the tip on conversion, as European flyers, we are used to convert when dealing with engines from across the pond (though we usuallly do convert from F to C). Funnily, in P51 field manuals, the engine temps were in Celsius during WWII. Best regards, -- Gilles http://contrails.free.fr


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:17:35 AM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: Re: egt temp
    Paul: Unless your EGT gauge has been properly set up and calibrated, few homebuilt aircraft are, it is not the most accurate method of reading EGT temps. The important thing is they do tend to be pretty consistent unless you end up changing locations of the thermocouples or something. They are more than accurate enough to follow trends in temperature. You say your plugs are the right colour. Then you are doing something right. If the plugs start to look lighter then, and only then, drop the clip a notch. The way to do this is to check your plugs on regular intervals and if you notice any increase in egt, from where it usually is, check your plugs at the next opportunity. When the engine is running lean you will notice more than an increase in EGT reading. You can get a drop in power and sometimes even a bit of back firing. This will also happen when it's past time to refuel. It is possible in cases of more extreme lean operation that the EGT can actually peak and drop slightly. You seem to have a pretty good idea of where your engine is operating properly and your observations are being supported by your plug inspections. If you were using a compensated, calibrated EGT gauge similar to the types used on turbine engines then you may have something to worry about. In the mean time feel confident that your readings are probably all in the gauge. Noel > Time: 06:15:13 AM PST US > From: "paul baker" <pbaker4@windstream.net> > Subject: RotaxEngines-List: egt temp > > I own a 601 hd with a 912usl. The egt runs in the mid > 1500s at cruse.If you advance the throttle, the egt will > run mid 1400.I checked the settings on the bing carb. > the adjusting ring has 5 slots and the clip is in the next > to the bottom slot. I was told to move the clip down one > slot to increase the mixture. Do these temps seem to > high? The engine runs smoth and I don't want to mess > something up. The plugs are a light brown and show no > sign of being too hot > > paul baker > zodiac 601 190total hrs 50 by me


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:25:09 PM PST US
    From: "markdonahue" <markdonahue@earthlink.net>
    Subject: 912 starting problems
    Kitfox model IV with a 912 UL Does anyone have some thoughts for me as to how to make my engine start more easily. Engine runs fine after starting. Battery is good and turns over briskly. Choke pulls to the stop. Throttle on idle. Have checked carbs and jets all are clean and all seems clear. If I add a bit of gas at the filter it will fire. Seems like its carb related. Spark seems weak, but have changed ignition wires and no change. And again it runs strong. I have had the carbs rebuilt at Lockwood, but that was 3 years ago, but it didnt seem to make any difference. Any thoughts anyone. I have 790 hours on the engine. Mark Donahue




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