Today's Message Index:
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1. 08:54 AM - Re: NEW 911uls &)" prop +++ (SUE MICHAELS)
2. 04:15 PM - Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/13/07 (Tacco@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | NEW 911uls &)" prop +++ |
Guess this should go straight to a "B" movie.
Noel Loveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca> wrote:
How much for the slightly used one owner wife ??
that remark of yours required an answer ;-)
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of SUE MICHAELS
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 2:43 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: NEW 911uls &)" prop +++
I believe the Rotax 912uls was built in 2003 or 20004 (still checking Date). It's
new and has never been started. When I bought the complete, but unfinished
Kitfox 7 the man said I had to take motor and everything else he wanted gone,
the only problem is I'm still not to pleased with having his wife around. Two
items not included with the sale are the oil tank and radiator.
Included is a complete 912uls, carb heat air intake box, all attached electrical
components, Rotax high performance exhaust system, Rotax engine ring mount,
throtlle cable with split feeds, choke cable kit and other odd and ends I need
to dig through the boxes for. New 70" carbon fiber 3 blade warp drive prop
with spinner and the protractor to adjust blade angles.
And yes, you must take all or nothing!
Whats a fair asking price and or / offer.
So far best offer is $13,500.00 USD
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RotaxEngines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 10/13/07 |
Hi Ferg,
Jon Moore here in Huntsville AL. I have a 914 and the Dynon.
Works well! The MP must be abe to read to 40 inches and the one supplied
with the system does that. You do need to run the calibrated 5 volts to it, but
that's easy. The maunal is clear. The place to measure the pressure from is
the nipple in the middle of the balance tube. I mounted my tranducer on the
fireway and ran a tube from the balance tube nipple direct. Some say put a
piece of aluminun with a very small hole on the tube to act as a damper for the
pulsations the pressure sensor migh see. I didn't but might later.
The CHT is simple, just run a wire from the CHT nipple on the bottom of the
head on the left and right head to the appropriate wires in the D-connector -
no 5 volt needed there (at the cyl). I believe that the 5 volts is supplied to
the end of the sensor wire at the D connector - again easy. I actuall set up a
5 volt buss bar so I could make the connections more easily.
The EGTs must be connected. You should have the proper EGT wire length; run
it - uniterrupted from the egt wire junction to the senor D15 connector. Be
careful about any interrim connections. I did not solder the wires but did
twist them together then pinched them in a nylon block. My CHT and EGT agree with
in 1 degree F when engine is just sitting in hangar. Oil pressure and temp
are simply by the book. RPM is a trick. The ROTAX manual has a take off for
RPM in two places. The one you want comes from the RPM sensor in the accessory
case (has the alternator inside). Take one of those wires and connect it to the
dynon rpm sensor (should be the one that is not labeled 0v n the manual - the
other one, though Dynon does not say one or the other. The Dynon completes
the loop with the engine through its ground.
The Ammeter and Volt meters are a simple hoook up. Make sure you have the
approriate shunt.
Good Luck,
Jon
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