Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:10 AM - Re: Throttle Cables sticking (Jack Kuehn)
2. 09:16 AM - Re: Throttle Cables sticking (Roger Lee)
3. 02:49 PM - Carb Heat with 912ULS (Jeffrey A Beachy)
4. 03:44 PM - Re: Carb Heat with 912ULS (Joe and Joan Kimbell)
5. 03:44 PM - Re: Carb Heat with 912ULS (george may)
6. 05:12 PM - Re: Carb Heat with 912ULS (Evan Gardiner)
7. 07:16 PM - Re: Re: Throttle Cables sticking (Dave)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables sticking |
Not sure if I am using the same type of twisted cable as you are, but
when the cables were new I took the cable out of the housing and
sprayed it down with a silicone lubricant and made sure it was clean.
I inspect them now every 50 hours and no problems. Could your bowing
cable just be sticky?
Jack
On Jan 28, 2008 9:53 PM, Rich & Sandy Schultz
<TheSchultzFamily@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> I am looking to see what others have done to prevent throttle cable bowing
> of the twisted wire used in most throttle cables. I have a 914 installed on
> a Europa and am having problems with one of the cables wanting to bow in the
> throttle box and not allowing me to get full power. The throttle springs are
> not strong enough to pull the cable and keep it in tension all the time. On
> the Europa form others have talked about going to a solid cable .055 or .078
> SS piano wire. I have some concerns about the carburetor attachment point
> producing a stress crack and failing under the vibration. I am interested to
> hear what others have done?
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables sticking |
Here are a couple of things to do.
1. Use cable housing that has the plastic lining in it and not just plain steel
lining. It allows the cable to move within the sheath smoothly and doesn't rust
or develop rough spots.
2. Do like Jack said and remove the cable and use some cable lube
3. Step down a cable size to allow more room in the cable housing to move and not
bind. On many planes trying to use 1/16" cable size is too big depending on
the routing and turns that are made with the throttle cable. My cable in my CT
is only 3/64" or 1.2mm. This is because it goes around a 1 1/4" size pulley
and needs to be able to make the bend and be very flexible. Using the smaller
size cable will allow your carb springs to work better and do their job. Use 7x7
or 7x19 cable. 7x19 is a little more flexible than 7x7.
4. Lube the throttle quadrant if you have one and make sure it moves freely.
If it were me I would do all the above and then the throttle should be very smooth
in its operation.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161109#161109
Message 3
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| Subject: | Carb Heat with 912ULS |
I have a Rotax 912ULS with the Rotax airbox. My cold air is supplied via
a NACA inlet on the cowl then through a filter and on to the airbox. Carb
heat is via a flap in the airbox which pulls unfiltered air from a
muffler cowl to the airbox. I understand that the 912 series is not prone
to icing, but I cannot find anything in the Rotax literature offering
suggested use of carb heat. So, experts, when do I use carb heat with my
912ULS? Only if engine is running rough and icing is suspected? In
landing patterns like a Cub? All those using the Rotax airbox with a 912,
I would appreciate your experience and suggestions. Thanks!
Jeff Beachy
Zenith CH701
Message 4
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| Subject: | Carb Heat with 912ULS |
Jeff, I have the carb heat and having used it close to two hundred times, I
did indeed have ice one time. That happened to be during a time when I wa
s doing stalls and slow flight. I live in very high humidity Fl. so on do
wnwind at slightly reduced rpm i pull on Carb heat to see if there are any
problems. so far none at that point on final I push in so i will get full r
pm if needed. Joe
> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com> Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:45:41 -050
0> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Carb Heat with 912ULS> From: beachyjeff@juno
ff@juno.com>> > I have a Rotax 912ULS with the Rotax airbox. My cold air is
supplied via> a NACA inlet on the cowl then through a filter and on to the
airbox. Carb> heat is via a flap in the airbox which pulls unfiltered air
from a> muffler cowl to the airbox. I understand that the 912 series is not
prone> to icing, but I cannot find anything in the Rotax literature offeri
ng> suggested use of carb heat. So, experts, when do I use carb heat with m
y> 912ULS? Only if engine is running rough and icing is suspected? In> land
ing patterns like a Cub? All those using the Rotax airbox with a 912,> I wo
uld appreciate your experience and suggestions. Thanks!> > Jeff Beachy> Zen
-========================
========> > >
Message 5
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| Subject: | Carb Heat with 912ULS |
Jeff--
I use the carb heat on my Rotax for all landings, slow flight and if I su
spect carb icing.
George May
601XL 912s> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com> Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:
45:41 -0500> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Carb Heat with 912ULS> From: beach
<beachyjeff@juno.com>> > I have a Rotax 912ULS with the Rotax airbox. My c
old air is supplied via> a NACA inlet on the cowl then through a filter and
on to the airbox. Carb> heat is via a flap in the airbox which pulls unfil
tered air from a> muffler cowl to the airbox. I understand that the 912 ser
ies is not prone> to icing, but I cannot find anything in the Rotax literat
ure offering> suggested use of carb heat. So, experts, when do I use carb h
eat with my> 912ULS? Only if engine is running rough and icing is suspected
? In> landing patterns like a Cub? All those using the Rotax airbox with a
912,> I would appreciate your experience and suggestions. Thanks!> > Jeff B
=============> > >
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging.-You IM, we g
ive.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Carb Heat with 912ULS |
Hi Jeff, good question! There is certainly a divergence of opinion about the
risk of carb icing with the Rotax 912 series. After suffering 3 forced
landings (2 with the prop stopped!) with carb icing I decided it was time to
do something about it. I fly an MCR 01 ULC (Ban-Bi) and the many, mainly
European owners of this marque do not seem to be affected by carb icing. I
live in New Zealand and it is a well established fact that our particular
weather conditions do predispose to carb icing. Most 912 installations here
do have some sort of carb heat provision - particularly if the carb. intake
air is sourced from a ram air intake outside the engine cowl. Installations
where the engine intake air temp is the same as the ambient air temp found
within a tightly cowled engine compartment usually minimises the risk of
carb icing even here in NZ.
I have fitted a similar carb heat system as you and it works ok. If I was
building another aircraft I would fit the system that has hot radiator water
circulating through a jacket around the carb air intake. Fit it and forget
about when you need to use it as it is on all the time with no significant
power loss.
To get back to your question though, in my experience with this sort of carb
heat set up you need to prevent carb ice forming rather than wait till the
engine starts running rough and then applying carb heat. Similar to GA best
practise. In my set-up carb heat is not that efficient that I would rely on
it melting a big ice build up before the engine quits. If the engine starts
to run rough best to go to full power for a period, apply carb heat and
leave it on for the rest of your flight.
The best thing I did on my aircraft was to velcro on to my instrument panel
an inexpensive indoor/outside digital temperature guage. One sensor is poked
into the carb airbox which gives me OAT and the other sensor is RTVd on to
the thoat area of the carb body. This probe will tell me when carb ice is
starting to build. The heat sink effect of the motor temperature on the carb
body has this sensor showing 22 - 24 degrees Celcius under normal
conditions. Given carb ice forming this temp reading will gradually fall and
if it reads 18 degrees C or lower I can expect to experience the effects of
carb icing. At this point it will take approx 5 min of carb heat to restore
temps to normal. The temps given here will vary considerably with each
particular aircraft and are given here as a guide only. Hope this helps!
Evan Gardiner,
MCR 01 ULC
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Carb Heat with 912ULS
RotaxEngines-List message posted by: Jeffrey A Beachy <beachyjeff@juno.com>
I have a Rotax 912ULS with the Rotax airbox. My cold air is supplied via a
NACA inlet on the cowl then through a filter and on to the airbox. Carb heat
is via a flap in the airbox which pulls unfiltered air from a muffler cowl
to the airbox. I understand that the 912 series is not prone to icing, but I
cannot find anything in the Rotax literature offering suggested use of carb
heat. So, experts, when do I use carb heat with my 912ULS? Only if engine is
running rough and icing is suspected? In
landing patterns like a Cub? All those using the Rotax airbox with a 912, I
would appreciate your experience and suggestions. Thanks!
Jeff Beachy
Zenith CH701
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables sticking |
Keep the cables as short as possible too, just long enough to make smooth a
radius if they have to change direction in your installation.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 11:14 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Throttle Cables sticking
Here are a couple of things to do.
1. Use cable housing that has the plastic lining in it and not just plain
steel lining. It allows the cable to move within the sheath smoothly and
doesn't rust or develop rough spots.
2. Do like Jack said and remove the cable and use some cable lube
3. Step down a cable size to allow more room in the cable housing to move
and not bind. On many planes trying to use 1/16" cable size is too big
depending on the routing and turns that are made with the throttle cable. My
cable in my CT is only 3/64" or 1.2mm. This is because it goes around a 1
1/4" size pulley and needs to be able to make the bend and be very flexible.
Using the smaller size cable will allow your carb springs to work better and
do their job. Use 7x7 or 7x19 cable. 7x19 is a little more flexible than
7x7.
4. Lube the throttle quadrant if you have one and make sure it moves freely.
If it were me I would do all the above and then the throttle should be very
smooth in its operation.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=161109#161109
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