RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive

Mon 07/28/08


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:49 AM - Re: Re: Changing Crush Gasket (Robert C Harrison)
     2. 05:15 AM - Re: 912 UL dieseling (Catz631@aol.com)
     3. 08:39 AM - Re: 912 UL dieseling ()
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:49:06 AM PST US
    From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk>
    Subject: Re: Changing Crush Gasket
    Hi! Lucien Just to explore the topic further ...whilst I would never advocate not changing the crush washer.... if it is a solid copper ring and you have forgotten to have a replacement on hand then it would be best to refit it after you have annealed it .....heated it cherry red and quenching it in oil.(the opposite to hardening steel!) That will restore it's flexibility to reuse. However many crush washers are made of light gauge copper and are rolled and so folded to allow the crush to take place (like on ignition plugs) these would not be suitable for annealing. I have a 1936 Velocette OHC 350cc motor cycle and it's head gasket is a solid copper ring about 3" diameter which I have never renewed but always annealed without ever leaking Regards Bob Harrison. Europa G-PTAG 914 Rotax. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucien Sent: 27 July 2008 20:45 Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: Changing Crush Gasket <lstavenhagen@hotmail.com> My .02, If I have a crush washer on me when I do my oil change, I replace it. I'll reuse old ones, tho. Copper will harden a bit once it's crushed so a used washer isn't as pliable as it was (besides already being flat as a pancake). But at the specified torque (195 in/lbs I believe?, can't remember off top of my head), the drain plug usually still gets a good seal and doesn't leak. And yes, I wouldn't even consider not safety-wiring the drain plug after installation new crush washer or no....... yeah it's extremely unlikely a properly torqued plug could come out but the wire reduces that probability to as close to zero as you can reasonably get for just a little bit of effort ;) LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=195253#195253


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:15:14 AM PST US
    From: Catz631@aol.com
    Subject: Re: 912 UL dieseling
    Thanks for the tips Ron and LS. I will check the ground wires.We don't have alcohol in the fuel here yet.(not for another two years) I am pulling the plugs today and will check them for carbon.I always use the silicone compound on the plugs and torque to the book. Hopefully the premium auto gas will do the trick ,if not then on to a mix of avgas.I have just started using the new Aeroshell Plus 4 oil and it will handle either fuel. It's a 10w40 oil but pours like water. Dick Maddux Kitfox 4 Rotax 912 UL Pensacola,Fl **************Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr00050000000020)


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:39:50 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: 912 UL dieseling
    From: <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
    Hi Dick I just remembered hearing from Lockwoods years ago that if you get the ignition modules hot you can not turn motor off. I wonder if one of your ignitions give you a spark or 2 out of phase on shut down?? Ron P.




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