Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:58 AM - 9xx Crankcase fretting (Paul McAllister)
2. 06:39 AM - Re: 9xx Crankcase fretting (Dave Austin)
3. 08:36 AM - Re: 9xx Crankcase fretting (Paul McAllister)
4. 02:03 PM - coolant problems? (dashwood)
5. 04:42 PM - Re: coolant problems? (LarryMcFarland)
6. 06:46 PM - Re: coolant problems? (Roger Lee)
7. 07:19 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Magnetic Plug SB (dashwood)
8. 07:32 PM - Re: Re: Rotax 912 Magnetic Plug SB (Bob Comperini)
9. 10:38 PM - Re: Rotax 912 Magnetic Plug SB (Roger Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 9xx Crankcase fretting |
Hi all,
I posted the same note on the Europa forum, but I thought it might be of in
terest on this list as well.
I just wanted to give you an update on my Rotax leaking crankcase.-=0AAbo
ut a year ago I saw a small oil leak start on the engine just behind=0Athe
gearbox on the flat machined surface on top of the engine.- After a=0Awhi
le the leaking area started to slowly progress along the case=0Atowards the
back of the engine and then along the bottom.- While I was=0Aat the Oshk
osh airshow I went and talked to the mechanic from Kodiak to=0Aget his opin
ion.- He told me that some 912 / 914's were getting=0Acrankcase fretting
and over time the cases were damaged to such an=0Aextend that they had to b
e replaced.- His advice to to have the engine=0Astripped and inspected.
=0A
Well this winter I removed the engine and took it to Leading Edge=0AAirfoil
who has a rotax trained A&P on staff.- He stripped the=0Aengine and sure
enough it was showing signs of fretting.- The engine=0Ahas about 750 hou
rs on it at the moment.- Fortunately it was not too=0Abad and he was able
to dress the cases and re assemble the engine.- He=0Aused a different se
alant, 5150 I believe it was called instead of the=0Ared Locktite sealant t
hat was on before.- He tells me that Rotax now=0Aspecify this sealant.-
It is a heavier material and apparently is=0Aswells a little after applica
tion, perhaps from heat, I am not sure.-=0AHe felt confident that this wo
uld tighten things up and I should not=0Ahave any problems.- A couple of
other things to note, at 750 hours=0Athere was no sign of wear in any part
of the engine.- The only thing he=0Amentioned was a slight scuff on a cam
follower that would have been=0Afrom not priming the engine properly after
an oil change.- I remember=0Aexactly when I did that !- He as able to
polish it out.- There was a=0Alittle bit of oil flashing on some of the p
iston skirts and he told me=0Athat this was from using either mineral or se
mi synthetic.- I have been=0Ausing the recommended Penzol motorcycle oil
although this has dropped=0Aoff the list in recent times, so I changed to t
he Valvoline Durablend.-=0AHe was strongly recommending I go to a full sy
nthetic oil. He also=0Awanted me to stop using the Challenger oil filters,
he tells me that=0Athey have less pleats in them. The only other thing of n
ote was the=0ATurbo charger bracket was broken.
=0A
So it would appear that Kodiak was right and if I hadn't had this=0Awork do
ne I would have lost the cases.- While he had it apart he=0Aoverhauled th
e gearbox which was due, replaced the plugs, and the=0Arubber boots on the
carburettors, so my oil leak repair came to 3900=0Adollars.- Ouch.- Rot
ax really have no shame, the gasket set is over a=0A1000 dollars for someth
ing that has a trivial manufactured cost but=0Athere is little that any of
us can do about that matter.
=0A
The aircraft is going to be a little while before it is flying=0Aagain, I h
ave decided to take a crack at some cooling modifications=0Awhile it is all
apart.
Paul
N378PJ
Europa 914
=0A=0A=0A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 9xx Crankcase fretting |
Rotax published an advisory years ago on the crankcase cracking. If I
recall it was just where yours is leaking. Suggest you do a search on
their site.
Dave Austin 601HDS - 912
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 9xx Crankcase fretting |
Hi Dave,
The SB you are refering to was SB 914-018UL R3.- In my particular situati
on the cases had not cracked, but the two surfaces where the engine splits
had ever so slightly rubbed until they fretted and leaked.- This is a kno
wn problem to Rotax and the new style cases have been re engineered to addr
ess this problem.
Rotax are not able to offer any explanation as to why it happens on some en
gines and not others.
Regards,- Paul
--- On Sat, 4/4/09, Dave Austin <daveaustin2@primus.ca> wrote:
From: Dave Austin <daveaustin2@primus.ca>
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: 9xx Crankcase fretting
=0A=0A =0A =0A=0ARotax published an advisory years ago on the =0Acrankcase
cracking.- If I recall it was just where yours is leaking.- =0ASuggest
you do a search on their site.=0ADave Austin- 601HDS - =0A912=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A
Message 4
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| Subject: | coolant problems? |
I was wondering if anyone could help with this problem. I have had the coolant
overflow bottle empty itself for the second time over a period of 50 hours of
engine time, 250 tt. the first time was last august shortly after i purchased
the plane and the second time was after 1.5 hour flight last week. it is always
on my preflight check so i know the bottle was full and the emptying is not
gradual. the main gally still had fluid and i havn't notice any extream fluctuations
in temp. I did notice this time a small amount of oily sludge/residue
in the bottom of the bottle(aprox 1/8 tsp). I am not sure of the cap presure rating
but the seals looks clean. I am using the pink fluid 50/50 mix from General
moters. in a car engine this would indicate a blown headgasket.. Thoughts
please.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237711#237711
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: coolant problems? |
Last year, I lost fluid from the bottle and found the plastic had sprung
a leak being against a rivet head.
There was a black layer of crud on the bottom of the bottle that turned
out to be rubber from the hoses.
If your flying, it's likely you've got a leak at the bottle or on the
return hoses if you're not seeing any wet
spots. Seepage at the overflow bottle can usually be found on the
firewall and is the first suspect.
I replaced my bottle from an O'Reilly's auto store.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
dashwood wrote:
>
> I was wondering if anyone could help with this problem. I have had the coolant
overflow bottle empty itself for the second time over a period of 50 hours of
engine time, 250 tt. the first time was last august shortly after i purchased
the plane and the second time was after 1.5 hour flight last week. it is always
on my preflight check so i know the bottle was full and the emptying is not
gradual. the main gally still had fluid and i havn't notice any extream fluctuations
in temp. I did notice this time a small amount of oily sludge/residue
in the bottom of the bottle(aprox 1/8 tsp). I am not sure of the cap presure
rating but the seals looks clean. I am using the pink fluid 50/50 mix from General
moters. in a car engine this would indicate a blown headgasket.. Thoughts
please.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: coolant problems? |
Hi Dash,
You only have a couple of places to look that are the usual suspects. Lets hope
it's not the last one.
First tighten all the screw clamps on the coolant hoses. Even if they look fine
the water can and will leak under the hose clamp and either blow away or evaporate
before you get the chance to find the leak. This happens a lot. It usually
won't leak while on the ground because it is not under enough pressure at that
setting. Second make sure and put a wrench on the fittings at the radiator
and check for tightness. Third check and see if there is any residue under the
ports where the water tubes/flanges join the heads. Last, but not least if all
these are ok make sure you do not have a water leak at the water pump. If it
is here you have a little more to deal with. My bet is the first two. That is
where I find 90% of the leaks on my customer planes. Again even if a clamp or
fitting looks tight put a wrench on it and give it a "snugness" (technical term)
check. [Wink]
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237758#237758
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Magnetic Plug SB |
am hijacking thread...i tried to remove this plug at last oil change and found
it to be seized tight= striped out torx= not going to be removed without drilling.
and re-tap. i was thinking of attaching a earth magnet to oil filter. this
would do the same job??? when i surgical inspect the filter any problems should
show up here or do i need to remove this plug to clean off. my thoughts are
it would only collect as much as would stick to the original plug and hold it.
then rest would collect at filter. any advice would be appreciated
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237760#237760
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Magnetic Plug SB |
Once you get that old Torx plug out, get one of the new style magnetic plugs. There
is a new design of this plug, that came out last year. It has a nice 16mm(?)
Hex head. No more Torx head to be stripped.
On 07:17 PM 4/4/2009, dashwood wrote:
>
>am hijacking thread...i tried to remove this plug at last oil change and found
it to be seized tight= striped out torx= not going to be removed without drilling.
and re-tap. i was thinking of attaching a earth magnet to oil filter. this
would do the same job??? when i surgical inspect the filter any problems should
show up here or do i need to remove this plug to clean off. my thoughts are
it would only collect as much as would stick to the original plug and hold
it. then rest would collect at filter. any advice would be appreciated
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237760#237760
>
>
--
Bob Comperini
e-mail: bob@fly-ul.com
WWW: http://www.fly-ul.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 912 Magnetic Plug SB |
Magnetic plug removal.
First make sure you tap the #40 Torx into place to make sure it is seated all the
way in other wise it will strip. Once done have someone apply a fair amount
of torque to the magnetic plug and while they are doing this take a rod about
8"-10" long and set the tip of the rod on the edge of the plug. Grab a hammer
and tap the rod smartly once or twice and the plug comes right out. This is usually
a first time issue and when you put it back in it is supposed to be torqued
to 200 in/lbs. It should then be safety wired. No other fancy removal ideas
needed. This works every time without fail. This plug is to be checked every
50 hrs during the oil change or 25 hrs. if you use 100LL. Some oil does run
out the hole so keep a rag handy. There is less oil if you do this while the oil
is drained. Under no circumstances rotate your prop while the oil id drained
or you will be purging the oil system for sure.
They do make the new hexhead version of this plug. It is about $45-$50
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237785#237785
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