RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive

Mon 04/06/09


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:17 AM - Re: coolant problems? (Martin Pohl)
     2. 07:11 AM - Re: coolant problems? (Roger Lee)
     3. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: coolant problems? (george may)
     4. 06:34 PM - 912 UL Compression Test (Hugh)
     5. 08:20 PM - Re: 912 UL Compression Test (Noel Loveys)
     6. 08:40 PM - Re: 912 UL Compression Test (Roger Lee)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:17:14 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: coolant problems?
    From: "Martin Pohl" <mpohl@pohltec.ch>
    Roger I am installing the coolant, fuel and oil hoses at the moment using rubber hose and Q200 hose clamps (screw type). However I didn't find any recommendations for torquing of the screw clamps. How much do you torque them to get them tight enough, but not to harm the rubber hoses? Thx, Martin ___________________ Martin Pohl, Zodiac XL QBK Rapperswil, Switzerland -------- Martin Pohl Zodiac XL QBK 8645 Jona, Switzerland www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237952#237952


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:11:22 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: coolant problems?
    From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
    Hi Martin, Is the Q200 clamp you are describing a clamp that can split into two pieces with screw/nut on each side? If this is the clamp then picking the appropriate size will be important. I don't think I have seen anything in print on an exact torque value. You don't want to be cutting down into the hose with the clamp. I would tighten them down until they it is fairly snug. You can't afford to go crazy with the tightening because the regular screw/worm drive clamps will strip and start hopping threads then the clamp has to be replaced. I usually tug on the hose to see if any slipping takes place. Do not pull on the hose so hard as to cause the threads within the hose to break. Then after a long run up or flight I would check for tightness again. After many years of doing this I just use good judgment. Sorry I can't give you a good definitive answer on this one. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Service Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237970#237970


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:20:22 AM PST US
    From: george may <gfmjr_20@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: coolant problems?
    Martin-- Maybe I can be a little more specific than Roger on your question. I've u sed typical screw type hose clamps on my engines for about 10 years without any failures. What I use as an indicator of clamp tightness=2C is the hose bulging up th rough the "screw slots" on the clamp. The hose should just begin to rise up through the slots. I also safety wire all clamps. Hope this helps George May 601XL 912s > Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: coolant problems? > From: mpohl@pohltec.ch > Date: Mon=2C 6 Apr 2009 03:16:21 -0700 > To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com > > > Roger > > I am installing the coolant=2C fuel and oil hoses at the moment using rub ber hose and Q200 hose clamps (screw type). However I didn't find any recom mendations for torquing of the screw clamps. How much do you torque them to get them tight enough=2C but not to harm the rubber hoses? > > Thx=2C Martin > > ___________________ > Martin Pohl=2C Zodiac XL QBK > Rapperswil=2C Switzerland > > -------- > Martin Pohl > Zodiac XL QBK > 8645 Jona=2C Switzerland > www.pohltec.ch/ZodiacXL > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=237952#237952 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_ Storage1_042009


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:34:07 PM PST US
    From: "Hugh" <hgmckay@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: 912 UL Compression Test
    Today I changed the plugs on my 912UL (200 hours on the engine). I also did a compression check per the Rotax instructions Sec. 12 2.5. Here are the results of the compression test: Cylinder 1 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 86 psi 1.15% Drop Cylinder 2 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 76 psi 12.64% Drop Cylinder 3 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 86 psi 1.15% Drop Cylinder 4 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 86 psi 1.15% Drop Every thing looks fine except cylinder 2. The percent pressure drop is still within the Rotax allowable drop of 25%, but because there is such a large difference between #2 Cylinder and the other three I am concerned. I repeated the test on cylinder #2 twice and got the same result. During the test on number 2 cylinder I also heard air bubbling back through the oil tank. This seems to tell me that one of the valves was partially open allowing air to pass out of the cylinder. I assumed that I was on top dead center because the prop did not move when the pressure was applied. Could I be slightly off dead center with one of the valves cracked open and the prop not rotate? I need some advice and guidance as to what I need to do to find out what the problem is, and how to correct it when I confirm what is causing the 12.64% drop in pressure in cylinder #2. Hugh McKay Allegro 2000 Rotax 912UL (200 Hrs.)


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:20:16 PM PST US
    From: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
    Subject: 912 UL Compression Test
    Hugh: Interesting that most compression tests are done with 80 PSI feed. I'll keep that in mind for the Rotax. If you were hearing air in the oil tank then that indicates air passing a compression ring into the base of the engine then back up the scavenger line to the oil tank. Sounds like you may have a little something under the #2 ring. You may want to try a little run with some Sea Foam or other cleaner in the fuel then test again. This may be a good place to run a little E -10 through it on the ground just before an oil change. Keep an eye on it and if the compression starts dropping faster, then you may want to have a closer look at that cylinder. Noel From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hugh Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 11:00 PM Subject: RotaxEngines-List: 912 UL Compression Test Today I changed the plugs on my 912UL (200 hours on the engine). I also did a compression check per the Rotax instructions Sec. 12 2.5. Here are the results of the compression test: Cylinder 1 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 86 psi 1.15% Drop Cylinder 2 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 76 psi 12.64% Drop Cylinder 3 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 86 psi 1.15% Drop Cylinder 4 Gauge 1Test Pressure 87 psi Gauge 2 pressure 86 psi 1.15% Drop Every thing looks fine except cylinder 2. The percent pressure drop is still within the Rotax allowable drop of 25%, but because there is such a large difference between #2 Cylinder and the other three I am concerned. I repeated the test on cylinder #2 twice and got the same result. During the test on number 2 cylinder I also heard air bubbling back through the oil tank. This seems to tell me that one of the valves was partially open allowing air to pass out of the cylinder. I assumed that I was on top dead center because the prop did not move when the pressure was applied. Could I be slightly off dead center with one of the valves cracked open and the prop not rotate? I need some advice and guidance as to what I need to do to find out what the problem is, and how to correct it when I confirm what is causing the 12.64% drop in pressure in cylinder #2. Hugh McKay Allegro 2000 Rotax 912UL (200 Hrs.)


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:40:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: 912 UL Compression Test
    From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
    Hi Guys, First thing is Rotax leak down compression test is done at 87 psi and not the standard 80 psi like Lycoming's and Continental's. Run your engine once and do the test on number two cylinder again, I will bet it goes up to the other ones. I have had this happen once or twice and a run with a retest and it was fine. The engine also need to be up to temp. So I do a carb balance on it as one of my last issues on an inspection and then the compression test after I shut down. Do not do a compression test on a cold Rotax. You should not hear any leaking air in the exhaust or the intake, but you will absolutely hear a little in the oil tank and that is normal. Where do you think the extra 2-3 psi of air goes on the leak down. Normally I see 87 over 85-84 for normal test pressures. Here is a picture of a little test tool I made for compression test. Easy and cheap to make. And while I'm thinking of it you do not use any antisieze on the spark plug threads. It is mandated in the Rotax manual to use a heat conducting paste. You can pick some up from Lockwood Aviation in a little clear packet or a larger tube. One little packet will do one plug change. Do not get any paste near the plug electrode. Keep the paste up at least 4 threads. It will cause misfires, it is a silicone base. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Service Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238100#238100 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/compression_tester_end_201.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/compression_tester_181.pdf




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