Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:40 AM - Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS (R Holder)
2. 02:08 AM - Re: Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS (Graham Singleton)
3. 04:09 AM - Re: Re: Low oil temps on 912ULSLow oil temps on 912ULS (Catz631@aol.com)
4. 07:22 AM - Re: Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS (Paul Wilson)
5. 07:56 AM - Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS (rampil)
6. 12:29 PM - Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS (george may)
7. 01:53 PM - Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS (Roger Lee)
8. 06:21 PM - Oil Temps Control (philip smith)
9. 06:28 PM - Ivoprop medium constant speed wiring (SUE MICHAELS)
10. 07:15 PM - Re: Oil Temps Control (Roger Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS |
> Well remember water evaporates readily at lower
> temperatures than the boiling point. You don't have to
> boil it to "burn" it off.
>
> You pretty much only have to get the engine and oil hot
> enough to actually get it all evaporated before it gets
> too cold again to do so. Whether that's 212F, tho, I
> dunno. I look at the oil cap after the engine cools
> down, there's usually a little condensation on it if I
> didn't run the engine long enough to get it hot enough
> to burn off all the moisture.
>
> As for the oil temp, I too have an oil thermostat
> installed on mine and it helps keep the temps up quite
> a bit. There are times in the winter tho where even
> that won't allow it to get to 180+. I"ve landed and put
> it away a few times in the very cold weather because I
> still couldn't get the oil temps over 160 or something
> like that without just really running the motor too
> hard.
One thing to remember, and no-one ever mentions it is :
The oil temperature is measured at the oil pump on the way
INTO the engine. AFTER the oil has been through the oil
cooler.
That means that a temperature of 180 shown on the gauge
may well mean that the oil in the oil tank is 212 or more.
So it is not necessary to have the gauge show 212 to be
sure the oil has reached 212 !
Richard Holder
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS |
lucien wrote:
>
>
> grahamsingleton(at)btinte wrote:
>
>> rampil wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Remember the boiling point of
>>> water at the normal operation oil pressure is much higher than the safe
>>> temp of the rotax alloy in the heads, so the boiling usually, occurs when
>>> the engine stops.
>>>
>>> At 4 atm (60 psi) the boiling point of pure water is about 300C!
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Ira N224XS
>>> Ira
>>>
>>>
>> I suspect you taught a lot of us something we had not thought through.
>> Very good point.
>>
>
>
> Well remember water evaporates readily at lower temperatures than the boiling
point. You don't have to boil it to "burn" it off.
>
> You pretty much only have to get the engine and oil hot enough to actually get
it all evaporated before it gets too cold
>
> LS
I forgot also that the oil is only at 4 atm inside the engine, when it
vents into the tank its down to 1 atm.
Graham
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps on 912ULSLow oil temps on 912ULS |
190 degrees was the minimum temp necessary to get rid of condensation in
the oil per Lockwood's Rotax 912 engine course I attended.
Dick Maddux
Kitfox 4-1200
Milton,Fl
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
MaystepsfooterNO62)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS |
Of course airplanes don't fly at sea level. And since the oil system is
basicaly open to the atmosphere (or slightly below) the the boling point of
any water would be less than 212F. That is why the cooks have to adjust the
recipies for altitude.!90F is a reasonable level for oil temp to vaporize
any water condensate. Guys who fly in CO will get rid of water at even lower
temps depending on the flight altitude.
Paul
On 5/30/09, R Holder <rholder@avnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
>
> Well remember water evaporates readily at lower
>> temperatures than the boiling point. You don't have to
>> boil it to "burn" it off.
>>
>> You pretty much only have to get the engine and oil hot
>> enough to actually get it all evaporated before it gets
>> too cold again to do so. Whether that's 212F, tho, I
>> dunno. I look at the oil cap after the engine cools
>> down, there's usually a little condensation on it if I
>> didn't run the engine long enough to get it hot enough
>> to burn off all the moisture.
>>
>> As for the oil temp, I too have an oil thermostat
>> installed on mine and it helps keep the temps up quite
>> a bit. There are times in the winter tho where even
>> that won't allow it to get to 180+. I"ve landed and put
>> it away a few times in the very cold weather because I
>> still couldn't get the oil temps over 160 or something
>> like that without just really running the motor too hard.
>>
>
>
> One thing to remember, and no-one ever mentions it is :
>
> The oil temperature is measured at the oil pump on the way
> INTO the engine. AFTER the oil has been through the oil
> cooler.
>
> That means that a temperature of 180 shown on the gauge
> may well mean that the oil in the oil tank is 212 or more.
> So it is not necessary to have the gauge show 212 to be
> sure the oil has reached 212 !
>
> Richard Holder
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS |
Yes, most water leaves the oil from reservoir, but also from the crankcase
which is where the rust forms from condensation.
Try a little experiment:
Leave your master electrics on for a few minutes after engine
shutdown (assuming a cowl!). Watch the oil temp rise.
Also, keep in mind that the rate of vaporization is (for a particular species
like water) proportional to the difference between the vapor pressure
and the ambient pressure. Since the VP goes up exponentially with
temp, a small increase in temp makes a big difference in rate of water
evaporation,
Ira
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246030#246030
Message 6
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| Subject: | Low oil temps on 912ULS |
You might try installing an oil thermostat--available from Lockwood. i have
one on my Rotax 912uls.
George May
601XL 912uls
> From: noelloveys@yahoo.ca
> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RotaxEngines-List: Low oil temps on 912ULS
> Date: Fri=2C 29 May 2009 22:28:01 -0230
>
>
> Sound to me like a set of Lowell's shutters would be right up your alley.
> Open then in the climb and close them to cruise in warmer weather.
>
> Noel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Les
> Goldner
> Sent: 28 May 2009 08:01 PM
> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Low oil temps on 912ULS
>
> <lgold@quantum-associates.com>
>
> I fly a Zenith CH701 with a 912 ULS engine and my oil temps are running l
ow.
> Rotax says the operating temps should be between 190 and 230-degrees F. M
y
> normal temps with 60-degree outside air run about 130-degrees at about
> 4800-RPM. I only get in the "normal" range when running near full RPM=2C
about
> 5250 with my prop setting. I mostly use 91 octane mogas and CPS's
> semi-synthetic AV-9 motor oil (which is supposed to be designed especiall
y
> for the 912).
> Should I be concerned that the oil temps run below the normal range?
> Les
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Low oil temps on 912ULS |
My temps right now in my Flight Design CT is 190-200 oil temp and 195-200 CHT.
This is with a 73F-75F OAT.
The oil thermostat is open at 180F and that's it. They are made by
Perma-Cool. They do not have anything that opens higher. With the CT's I don't
see any heating up to operating temp any faster with the thermostat than the ones
without the thermostat and the regular temps aren't any better after warm
up. If we want higher temps when it gets cool most guys use the 2" aluminum tape
across the radiator. Setting the prop to achieve higher rpms (5500 WOT) will
also get you more HP which will increase the temps some.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246061#246061
Message 8
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| Subject: | Oil Temps Control |
Just curious - seems that it would be easy to fabricate a butterfly valve
into the duct work on a CH - 701. My factory cowl has a NASA inlet on the
right side that leads to a shroud against the cooler proper - seems that the
duct is about three inches round and would facilitate a valve. Anyone try
this, or if you tried this and it didn't work what am I over looking.
Thanks
Phil
Message 9
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| Subject: | Ivoprop medium constant speed wiring |
Hopeless!- The small wires from the constant speed prop-said to-conne
ct to the coils. I think I get it, (no not really) but why the heck do I-
run the wires all the way-up to the prop when I have the Prop wires alrea
dy out there.-Can I connect-some where in line with the prop wires or w
hat-am I-missing.=0A=0AGeorge
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Temps Control |
Remos has an adjustable NACA vent. It is controlled from inside the cabin.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Service Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=246082#246082
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