Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:45 AM - Re: Rotax 503 (=?ISO-8859-1?Q?J=F3hann_J=F3hannsson?=)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: Rotax 503 (Thom Riddle)
3. 09:08 AM - Re: Rotax 503 (william sullivan)
4. 09:09 AM - Re: Rotax 503 (Robert C Harrison)
5. 11:24 AM - Re: Rotax 503 (Blumax008@aol.com)
Message 1
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Hello Ray.
How many hours do you have on the engine? When were the seals replaced?
Just some things to check. Air-leaks, Check if the rubber between carb
and engine does not have any cracks. Seals, intake and exhaust
manifold gaskets.
Have you done any adjustments to the propeller? Check that the spark
plugs have the correct gap adjustments.
Make sure that the jet needle is installed correctly, i.e. under
plastic cup.
I would mostly suspect an air leak.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Johann G.
On 18.11.2009, at 23:06, rayw wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I could use some help. I am running out of idea's. I have a 503 with
> dual Bing 54 carb's. The engine starts and runs well up to about
> 2000 RPM. After this RPM it has nothing left it just bogs. I have
> gone through both carbs so many times I could do it in my sleep. I
> don't think it is a fuel pump problem because I have rebuilt it and
> I have used the primer bulb to try to compensate for a potentially
> bad pump but this has no effect. The other day I ran it up to a
> point just before it bogged and put three fingers in front of the
> inlet of the right carb and got it to bog. I put three fingers in
> front of the inlet on the left carb and got a 1000 RPM rise. The
> carb on the left is an older type so I bought a brand new carb.
> Would you believe it? Same exact reaction. I went through the timing
> but I will probably go through it again to double check. Any body
> got any idea's? I have done so much that I can't even remember it all.
>
> Ray W.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273620#273620
>
>
Message 2
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Your three finger test tells me that that one carb may be lean and the other rich.
If you are absolutely certain that you have the correct jets and needles and
clip locations in both carbs, then make sure that both carbs are open the same
amount at idle and that they start opening simultaneously when advancing the
throttle control.
I just did a Bing 94 carb inspection for a customer and the internals were perfect
but it turns out his linkage was not installed correctly and the idle speed
was set too high which was causing him hard starting in cold weather. My point
is that it is not always the internals that cause the problems. Sometimes it
is the controls being not quite right.
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
"Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools."
- Pablo Mason
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273702#273702
Message 3
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- Is it possible that he just has a broken throttle cable?
-
-------------------------
------------ Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
------------ Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
------------ Kolb Firestar, 447
Message 4
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Hi! Ray
I'm no specialist but I'd look for a plug lead which has deteriorated.
Have you for instance verified that all plugs are good?
Regards and good luck
Bob Harrison Europa G-PTAG Rota 914
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rayw
Sent: 18 November 2009 23:07
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax 503
Hello,
I could use some help. I am running out of idea's. I have a 503 with dual
Bing 54 carb's. The engine starts and runs well up to about 2000 RPM. After
this RPM it has nothing left it just bogs. I have gone through both carbs so
many times I could do it in my sleep. I don't think it is a fuel pump
problem because I have rebuilt it and I have used the primer bulb to try to
compensate for a potentially bad pump but this has no effect. The other day
I ran it up to a point just before it bogged and put three fingers in front
of the inlet of the right carb and got it to bog. I put three fingers in
front of the inlet on the left carb and got a 1000 RPM rise. The carb on the
left is an older type so I bought a brand new carb. Would you believe it?
Same exact reaction. I went through the timing but I will probably go
through it again to double check. Any body got any idea's? I have done so
much that I can't even remember it all.
Ray W.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=273620#273620
Message 5
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In a message dated 11/19/2009 12:10:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ptag.dev@tiscali.co.uk writes:
I don't think it is a fuel pump
problem because I have rebuilt it and I have used the primer bulb to try to
compensate for a potentially bad pump but this has no effect.
Tell me about it! I'm currently having hell with a bogging 503 myself that
was showing lots of air bubbles in the fuel lines from the pump on to the
carbs. We've done everything from changing both carbs out (before we saw the
bubbles in flight)...to no effect...to changing the fuel pump & its'
location & back...to no effect...and a myriad of other what-we-thought were
fixes. We did find an exposed pick-up wire that had rubbed itself raw & was
shorting out against a CHT lead. We fixed that...to no effect.
FINALLY...(we think)...we ran all new fuel lines from the fuel tank to the
pump to the carbs. We also elimated two in-line fuel filters that were
between the fuel pump & the carbs. Now we only have the one filter just
outside the fuel tank. SO FAR - SO GOOD. Flew it yesterday & all is well...but
I
ain't holding my breath.
We do know it was not electrical in nature...stator, rotor or
pick-ups...but that exposed pick-up wire (mentioned above - in combo with the
fuel flow
problem) may have contributed to a complete engine failure a week ago.
Landed safely.
What you might try doing is installing a "T" in your fuel line from the
pump to the carbs. Disconnect what you think is the bad fuel pump line & T it
into the good fuel pump line. Of course close off the old line with tie
wrap & fuel line. See what happens.
Bottom line...be careful. Think safety. Stay in the pattern until you know
for sure it's fixed. Saved my ass the other day.
Bill Catalina
Tallahassee, Florida
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