Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:10 AM - Re: Gearbox shimming (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 07:47 AM - Re: Hose for Rotax 912/Fire Shield (John Goodings)
3. 08:07 AM - Re: FIRE SHIELD? (lucien)
4. 08:54 AM - Brake cleaner and heat (Richard Girard)
5. 10:47 AM - Re: FIRE SHIELD? (rampil)
6. 11:01 AM - Re: Re: FIRE SHIELD? (Craig Payne)
7. 12:01 PM - Re: FIRE SHIELD? (rampil)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gearbox shimming |
> There's no turbo so what is meant by "overboost"? Just curious.<
Rick, sorry about that,what I was referring to was the prop/rpm not in the
correct range. I should have said too far over square. If you get too much
pitch you can overtax the engine with too much stress. Like trying to turn a
flat board against the air. The damage to the Rotax engine occurs in the
case apparently.
Rotax specifies a min of 5200 static rpm with a fixed pitch prop.
Dick Maddux
Milton,Fl
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hose for Rotax 912/Fire Shield |
Is there a fuel hose with a BUILT-IN fire shield which is still reasonably
flexible and not too big in diameter?
John Goodings, C-FGPJ, CH601HD with R912S, Carp/Ottawa/Toronto
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: FIRE SHIELD? |
Roger Lee wrote:
> Depending on where and what size you buy fire sleeve can be $3-$5 per ft. All
the fuel lines and oil lines in an engine compartment should be sleeved. The
sleeves should have clamps on each end and they should really be dipped in a fire
sleeve sealer like "End Dip". This keeps the sleeving from wicking up fuel
or oil inside the sleeve to burn. That stuff is about $150 a quart. These fire
sleeves depending on what you buy are good up to 2000 degrees. You are never
thankful to have something that protects you until you need it and it has never
happened to me before until the first time.
>
> As a 28 year fireman I wish I had a quarter for every person that said "That
has never happened before".
I bought and still have some of the aeroquip firesleeve, you can tell just by looking
at it that it's great stuff.
But it does look like for it to be effective you have to install it right, preferably
with the ASTM compliant fittings on the ends and with it clamped at each
end with the little spring like clamps.
Just running it over the lines and leaving the ends open (like I have on a couple
runs of my fuel line as sort of insulation) is probably almost like not having
firesleeve on there at all....
So I basically probably wasted my money unless/until I go with a correct installation
(which is on my to-do list).
There's a video on Youtube of (Brian?) Carpenter installing the firesleeve over
an Aeroquip fuel line. the finished product looks like it'd withstand nuclear
weapons......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284962#284962
Message 4
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| Subject: | Brake cleaner and heat |
This warning has been going around on other technical forums for a couple of
months. Just an FYI.
Rick Girard
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: FIRE SHIELD? |
Lucien,
Firesleeve without antiwicking end dip is not worthless at all.
It protects the hose from chafing and from heat quite well. The only
thing the end -dip process is for is to prevent flammable liquids from
wicking into the fiberglass mat. If you already have flaming gasoline spraying
around your engine bay, then a little extra flame will not matter.
Nonetheless, antiwicking is easily and inexpensively done:
If you want to anti-wick any non-certified a/c, then the red heat resistant
silicone caulk works just fine.
Also, the band clips can be replaced with standard stainless screw-driven
compression clamps.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284978#284978
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: FIRE SHIELD? |
Re: fire sleeve end-clamps - Home Depot sells stainless steel "Tywraps".
Compared to the regular fire sleeve end clamps you don't need the special
installation tool (e.g. Spruce 05-00447 or 12-00684). Don't know how they
compare to the approved clamps but if stainless is melting under my cowl I
think I have bigger worries.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rampil
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 10:45 AM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: FIRE SHIELD?
Lucien,
Firesleeve without antiwicking end dip is not worthless at all.
It protects the hose from chafing and from heat quite well. The only thing
the end -dip process is for is to prevent flammable liquids from wicking
into the fiberglass mat. If you already have flaming gasoline spraying
around your engine bay, then a little extra flame will not matter.
Nonetheless, antiwicking is easily and inexpensively done:
If you want to anti-wick any non-certified a/c, then the red heat resistant
silicone caulk works just fine.
Also, the band clips can be replaced with standard stainless screw-driven
compression clamps.
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284978#284978
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: FIRE SHIELD? |
Ah yes, the aluminum block of the engine will melt far below the
temperature at which stainless will go soft.
I have not seen the home depot wraps, but I'll bet they are even
nastier to probing fingers than nylon!
--------
Ira N224XS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284992#284992
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