Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:02 AM - Re: Rotax Line maint. check list (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 06:54 AM - Re: Rotax Line maint. check list (Roger Lee)
3. 12:38 PM - Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory! (Roger Lee)
4. 01:17 PM - Header wrap 3+ years later (Roger Lee)
5. 01:36 PM - New oil pressure regulating parts. (Roger Lee)
6. 07:37 PM - Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory! (Arksey@aol.com)
7. 08:44 PM - Re: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory! (Roger Lee)
8. 11:02 PM - Official RotaxEngines-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
9. 11:07 PM - Official RotaxEngines-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Line maint. check list |
Thanks for all the good "gouge " (Navy term) Roger! Will give this to a
friend of mine as a reminder.
We are still trying to hunt down a vibration on a paradise P-1 I told you
about. It occurs at cruise rpm and you can feel it in the yoke. It is not
there at full power during climb out. It's there on the ground also (ie:not
airframe) We have synched carbs,checked mixtures, float bowl, throttle cable
movement, throttle arm swivel nut free movement,etc. We did find loose
exhaust stud bolts, tightened them to no avail, checked Warp prop pitch
(OK)/tracking.
The owner called Lockwood and they suggested it might be in the gearbox. I
didn't think so as the engine has less than 300 hrs since new(912S) but he
wanted to do it so we pulled it sent it, got it back and put it back on.
Temp yesterday was 106 degrees (high humidity) so after my friend started
seeing stars, we bailed out and went home into the cool.
Lockwood didn't find anything wrong with the box but reshimmed and put in
new new Belleville washers. We reinstalled the Warp but have yet to test it.
Our plan is to test and see if it is still there (probably will be) If so
then switch to a Kiev prop which we have on hand to see if that solves it.
If not then my thoughts are to remove the carbs,check for contamination
inside and possible leakage thru the sockets(cracks,etc)
The engine runs as smooth as a "ducks butt" on the ground observing it
cowl off from the side but the owner can feel the vibration inside.
I flew the aircraft and I could feel it to and wouldn't want to live with
it.
The thing is, he flew it from Montana to Pensacola, Fl and the vibration
started to occur over Mississippi. Prior to that it was fine.
Any other ideas would be appreciated.
Dick Maddux
Kitfox 4
912UL
Milton,Fl
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Line maint. check list |
Hi Dick,
How about a prop balance? Static is easy to do.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307038#307038
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| Subject: | Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory! |
Hi all, I hope this helps.
I thought I would talk about the gearbox friction torque and when it needs to be
done and how.
It is a mandatory check every 100 hrs or the Annual and it only takes a few minutes,
but it is very important. It has a place on the Rotax inspection check list
to record your test info and should be logged in your logbook for the inspection.
(The owners that come to me, don't bother to look in the book, it's there.B))
You will need a set of metric allen wrenches and a fish scale. Something that reads
between 0-50 lbs. Don't use something that read really high as it won't be
accurate down at the bottom numbers where we want to measure. I use a digital
fish scale. You will need a piece of string too.
As far as the how to perform this check, well let's take a look.
While you have the prop spinner off for the inspection is a good time to do this.
First remove the M8x20 plug screw for the locking pin . It is located about
3.5" above the magnetic oil plug. It is gold colored and has an upward angle
on the head. It is a number 5 or 6 allen screw. Remove it. Get the black 1 3/4"
crankshaft locking pin out of the Rotax orange tool kit. We will need to rotate
the prop which can be done with one plug out of each cylinder or they can
be left in. You will need a flash light to find the crankshaft locking pin grove.
You are going to shine the light down the hole where you just took out the
screw where the locking pin will be inserted. Slowly rotate the prop counterclockwise
while looking in the hole. You may only see blackness, keep rotating
until you see a shiny smooth oily surface. Continue to rotate slowly and you will
see what looks like a notch or a "V". If you continue it will be shiny smooth
again. Stop and go back to that "V" or notch. Move the prop back and forth
slightly to get it centered. Now take the locking pin and screw this in. It should
stop with 3/4" still sticking out. Hold the prop and slightly wiggle it
while you snug up the locking pin into the center of the notch. Now your crankshaft
should be locked. Absolutely do not screw the locking pin in further if
it just keeps going. That means you missed. Take it out and look for the smooth
oily surface and notch again. This is very easy so don't worry.
Now with the crankshaft locked the prop can still move approximately 30 degrees.
Push the prop back all the way counterclockwise until it stops. Take a tape
measure and measure out from the center of the prop hub outward along the blade
between 24-30 inches. It doesn't matter what number you pick. If you pick 26",
28" or 30" it doesn't matter. Put a little pencil or a mark at your measurement.
You need your string now around the prop at your mark. Now take your scale and
hook it on the string. In a nice straight and even pressure pull, pull the scale
and prop. Watch how much the scale reads. I usually do this 2-3 times to make
sure my reading is accurate. So let's say your reading was 17 lbs. To find
the torque measurement we take that number 17 lbs. and multiply it times the number
of inches you measured out from the prop center. Let's say you used 28"
and had a 17 lb pull. 28 X 17 = 476 in/lbs
That is a good number and is the number to record on the Rotax inspection sheet.
We look for a bottom number of 300 and the high end of 530 in/lbs. In this case
the higher the better. If you are at 490 in/lb verses 340 in/lb you are much
better off. No it isn't worth the effort to pull the gearbox to go from 450
to 510 and getting the friction right on is not an exact science. It is accomplished
by pulling the gearbox and using shims to add more pre-load to the bellville
washers that act as our spring tension.
Your done, take out the locking pin and don't loose it. replace the plug screw
at
133 in/lbs torque.
If you are a member of the R.O.A.N. website you can look at this video that demonstrates
this very well.
Hi all,
I thought I would talk about the gearbox friction torque and when it needs to be
done and how.
It is a mandatory check every 100 hrs or the Annual and it only takes a few minutes,
but it is very important. It has a place on the Rotax inspection check list
to record your test info and should be logged in your logbook for the inspection.
(The owners that come to me, don't bother to look in the book, it's there.B))
You will need a set of metric allen wrenches and a fish scale. Something that reads
between 0-50 lbs. Don't use something that read really high as it won't be
accurate down at the bottom numbers where we want to measure. I use a digital
fish scale. You will need a piece of string too.
As far as the how to perform this check, well let's take a look.
While you have the prop spinner off for the inspection is a good time to do this.
First remove the M8x20 plug screw for the locking pin . It is located about
3.5" above the magnetic oil plug. It is gold colored and has an upward angle
on the head. I believe it is a number 6 allen screw. Remove it. Get the black
1 3/4" crankshaft locking pin out of the Rotax orange tool kit. We will need to
rotate the prop which can be done with one plug out of each cylinder or they
can be left in. You will need a flash light to find the crankshaft locking pin
grove. You are going to shine the light down the hole where you just took out
the screw where the locking pin will be inserted. Slowly rotate the prop counterclockwise
while looking in the hole. You may only see blackness, keep rotating
until you see a shiny smooth oily surface. Continue to rotate slowly and
you will see what looks like a notch or a "V". If you continue it will be shiny
smooth again. Stop and go back to that "V" or notch. Move the prop back and
forth slightly to get it centered. Now take the locking pin and screw this in.
It should stop with 3/4" still sticking out. Hold the prop and slightly wiggle
it while you snug up the locking pin into the center of the notch. Now your
crankshaft should be locked. Absolutely do not screw the locking pin in further
if it just keeps going. That means you missed. Take it out and look for the
smooth oily surface and notch again. This is very easy so don't worry.
Now with the crankshaft locked the prop can still move approximately 30 degrees.
Push the prop back all the way counterclockwise until it stops. Take a tape
measure and measure out from the center of the prop hub outward along the blade
between 24-30 inches. It doesn't matter what number you pick. If you pick 26",
28" or 30" it doesn't matter. Put a little pencil or a mark at your measurement.
You need your string now around the prop at your mark. Now take your scale and
hook it on the string. In a nice straight and even pressure pull, pull the scale
and prop. Watch how much the scale reads. I usually do this 2-3 times to make
sure my reading is accurate. So let's say your reading was 17 lbs. To find
the torque measurement we take that number 17 lbs. and multiply it times the number
of inches you measured out from the prop center. Let's say you used 28"
and had a 17 lb pull. 28 X 17 = 476 in/lbs
That is a good number and is the number to record on the Rotax inspection sheet.
We look for a bottom number of 300 and the high end of 530 in/lbs. In this case
the higher the better. If you are at 490 in/lb verses 340 in/lb you are much
better off. No it isn't worth the effort to pull the gearbox to go from 450
to 510 and getting the friction right on is not an exact science. It is accomplished
by pulling the gearbox and using shims to add more pre-load to the bellville
washers that act as our spring tension.
Your done, take out the locking pin and don't loose it. replace the plug screw
at 133 in/lbs torque.
If you are a member of the R.O.A.N. website you can look at this video that demonstrates
this very well.
http://rotax-owner.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60:friction-torque&catid=8:training&Itemid=174
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307071#307071
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| Subject: | Header wrap 3+ years later |
This is a short quip from another site, but some of you with other aircraft may
find it interesting especially if you have wires or hoses close to an exhaust
tube.
Hi All,
I was just giving an update to the older header wrap post and discussion from a
few years back. It has been 3+ years now that I and others have installed the
header wrap on the 4 exhaust down tubes. What have been the problems? NONE There
have been no reported issue that I have heard about. It has not caused pipes
to crack, fall off and hit a golfer on the 18th hole. Although that would be
the only thing to get them out of paying the other person for the round he just
lost.
It has done a good job protecting the wire insulation, hoses and other items in
close proximity to the exhaust pipes radiant heat. It has also help contain any
exhaust blow by down by the knuckles. It has helped protect the exhaust springs
from the radiant heat. These pipes are stainless and not as susceptible to
carbonization as a regular steel exhaust pipe.
So no issues I guess is a good thing to report.
Oh yes I almost forgot.
For those that think the wrap will cover up an exhaust break. I have seen at least
a dozen of them on other aircraft, No CT's, and there is absolutely no question
that a pipe breaks. It doesn't get a little pin hole. They tend to snap
clean across because of the more brittle nature of stainless and you will hear
it because sounds like someone just put headers on your exhaust system. The wrap
by the way shreds into pieces. So if you had a break the wrap is the first
thing to go and in no way hides a problem. There won't be any guess work as to
where the break is. No you don't need to remove the wrap to do an exhaust pipe
only inspection and if you do you will need to buy new wrap to replace it because
if you pull it off you will destroy it. Exhaust breaks tend to be on more
high time aircraft with 800 plus hours, but can happen with less.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307082#307082
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| Subject: | New oil pressure regulating parts. |
Hi Guys,
If you qualify for the new extended 2000 TBO then you should replace these three
items and make sure yo get it in your logbook. Only 2 are required, but it would
be crazy not to do all three since they are all integrated. It takes about
10 minutes. Even if you don't qualify I would very highly recommend these part
changes. It does make a difference that have have seen in all the aircraft
so far. It will either steady the pressure and or raise it. They do a better job
of controlling the oil pressure over the old ball bearing, spring and cap screw.
For me personally this is a must do whether you have a 1990 or a 2009 Rotax 912.
You should use all three new parts.
cap screw 841-983 about $32- $35
spring 838-122 about $8
regulator cone 857-230 about $30- $33
Lockwood, CPS or Leading Edge should have them.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307085#307085
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| Subject: | Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's mandatory! |
RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
Hi all, I hope this helps.
I thought I would talk about the gearbox friction torque and when it needs
to be done and how.
It is a mandatory check every 100 hrs or the Annual and it only takes a
few minutes
Roger,
thanks for posting this information....was just talking with a pilot the
other day about the gearbox check....we plan on doing it to the 912 on the
kolb mk lll in the near future....doing a lot of flying up here in
michigan, seems everyone is getting interested....just wanted to thank you for
all
you do to help people with information regard the Rotax engines on this
list....everyone fly safe...jim swan
Do not archive
FIRESTAR ll 503 Michigan jswan
GPS FOR MY RUNWAY N 42 deg 28.581 W084deg 44.825
ph. 517-663-8488
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| Subject: | Re: Gearbox friction torque, when and how and it's |
mandatory!
Hi Jim,
Thanks.
If you need any thing let me know.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307141#307141
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| Subject: | Official RotaxEngines-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
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While constructing pages for the Wiki is not difficult, some may not be
comfortable building pages. In that case, simply prepare the text and any
images and email it to:
wiki-support@matronics.com
One of the volunteers on that list will take your submission and construct
a Wiki page for you.
Often someone produces a particularly useful posting in email one one of the
Lists that would be of general interest. In that case Matronics may take that
post and convert it into a Wiki page.
*********************
*** List Archives ***
*********************
A file containing of all of the previous postings to the RotaxEngines-List is
available on line. The archive file information is available via the
Web and FTP in a number of forms. Each are briefly described below:
* RotaxEngines-List.FAQ
- Latest version of the RotaxEngines-List Frequently Asked Question
page (this document).
* RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.complete
- Complete file with most of the email header info removed and
page breaks inserted between messages.
* RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.vol-??
- Same as the file above, but broken up into small sections that
can more easily handled.
* RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.complete.zip
- Same as the RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in PKZIP format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
* RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.complete.Z
- Same as the RotaxEngines-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in
UNIX compress format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
Download Via FTP
----------------
The archive file is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.matronics.com
in the "/pub/Archives" directory. It is updated daily and can be found in
a number of formats as described above. (All filenames are case sensitive.)
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Archives
Download Via Web
----------------
The archives are also available via a web listing. These can be found
toward the bottom of the following web page:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
******************************************
*** Complete List Web Archive Browsing ***
******************************************
All messages posted to the RotaxEngines-List are also available using the
Email List Archive Browsing feature. With this utility, all messages
in the List are indexed, and individual sub-archives can be browsed.
http://www.matronics.com/archive/archive-index.cgi?RotaxEngines
*****************************************
**** High-Speed Archive Search Engine ***
*****************************************
You can use the custom, high-performance Matronics Email List Search Engine
to quickly locate and browse any messages that have been posted to the
List. The Engine allows the user to easily search any of the currently
available List archives.
http://www.matronics.com/search
****************************
*** File and Photo Share ***
****************************
With the Matronics Email List File and Photo Share you can share pictures
and other data with members of the List without having to forward a
copy of it to everyone. To share your Files and Photos, simply email
them to:
pictures@matronics.com
!! ==> Please including the following information with each submission:
1) Email Lists that they are related to.
2) Your Full Name.
3) Your Email Address.
4) One line Subject description.
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic.
6-x) One-line Description of each photo or file
Prior to public availability of the files and photos, each will be scanned
for viruses. Please also note that the process of making the files and
photos available on the web site is a pseudo-manual process, and I try to
process them every few days.
Following the availability of the new Photoshare, an email message will be
sent to the Email Lists enumerated in 1) above indicating that the new
Share is available and what the direct URL to it is.
For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
Index Page:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
**************************
*** List Archive CDROM ***
**************************
A complete Matronics Email List Archive CD is available that contains
all of the archives since the beginning of each of the Lists. The archives
for all of the Lists are included on the CD along with a freeware search
engine written by a list member. The CD is burned the day you order it
and will contain archive received up to the last minute. They make
great gifts!
http://www.matronics.com/ArchiveCDROM
**********************************
*** List Support Contributions ***
**********************************
The Matronics Lists are run *completely* through the support of it members.
You won't find any PopUpAds, flashing Banner ads, or any other form of
annoying commercialism on either the Email Messages or the List web pages
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I run a low-key, low-pressure "Fund Raiser" where, throughout the month,
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If you enjoy and value the List, won't you make a Contribution today to
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Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RotaxEngines-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RotaxEngines-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RotaxEngines-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RotaxEngines-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RotaxEngines-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
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| Subject: | Official RotaxEngines-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the RotaxEngines-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RotaxEngines-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RotaxEngines-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RotaxEngines-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RotaxEngines-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RotaxEngines-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RotaxEngines-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RotaxEngines-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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