Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:59 AM - Re: Header wrap 3+ years later (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 06:27 AM - Re: Header wrap 3+ years later (Roger Lee)
3. 07:14 AM - Re: Gearbox/prop (ricklach)
4. 07:49 AM - Re: Gearbox/prop (Roger Lee)
5. 08:41 AM - Re: Re: Gearbox/prop (Richard Girard)
6. 04:25 PM - Sensenich Prop (Damien)
7. 05:22 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop (Dave)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Header wrap 3+ years later |
Barry,
I installed the exhaust wrap cause Roger said to and I like the stuff
Roger puts out. He is right on the "gnats ass" pretty much 100 percent of the
time.
I hope you got a chuckle out of that statement, but it is really true.
(don't get the big head now Roger)
Actually I saw it on a Rans S6 at my Rotax course a short time ago. It was
the instructors plane and I asked him if it was a worth while endeavor. He
said absolutely as it did lower the engine bay temps and protects the rubber
components. Also,I have gone thru 2 Northstar fuel flow sending units which
I had in my engine bay (close to the muffler) I believe their failure was
due to heat.
I also had all the hoses,fuel lines ,etc that were in close proximity to
the exhaust pipes wrapped with protedtive material and just figured "why not
wrap the exhaust pipes" so I did. The rubber engine mounts are close to the
pipes also and the rubber surface had been scorched from the heat prior so
the wrapping will help that area.
I haven't noticed any difference in my EGT,CHT,etc. I have no way to
measure the under cowl temp so don't what it would be.
I am glad I did it if for no other reason that if I accidently touch the
pipes while working on a hot engine,I don't burn myself (ask me how I know)
Dick
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Header wrap 3+ years later |
Hi Ross,
What brand of wrap and where do you pick some up?
If you have an SLSA you will need to send in an LOA (Letter of Approval) to the
aircraft Mfg. I did and it was no big deal. It actually became a fleet approval.
Thermo-Tech is very common. You can pick header wrap up at places like Checker
auto, Auto Zone or Pep Boys. You need to get the 2" wide wrap and it is sold in
a 50' length. For the standard Rotax exhaust tube that is about 15" long you
need to cut a 68" piece. Dampen it. Don't soak it. It takes very little water
to moisten this stuff. You will need a hose clamp at the top and one for the
bottom. Start at the top or exhaust port and wrap 2 spiral turns then put the
first clamp on. Then spiral wrap all the way down. Only over wrap each edge by
about 3/8"- 1/2" and no more. If you over wrap too much it hold in too much
heat. When you get to the springs just go under them and wrap around the exhaust
knuckle. This will help with any exhaust blow-by. Do not over wrap the springs.
The springs need the cooler air. Once this is done apply the other clamp.
That's it, just do the other three like that.
If you have an EGT probe, do not wrap around this. The material in the cloth warp
interferes with the readings. It will make your EGT's swing 100F. Wrap up to
about 1/4" before the probe and add a clamp then start 1/4" past the EGT probe,
add a clamp and then on down. When your done let the engine run for 10 minutes
or so.
p.s.
When you start the engine for the first time it will smoke a little and smell like
it's burning. That will go away after about 10 minutes and the wrap will burn
and seat in place. It might give a faint burnt smell the first time out after
you shut the engine down. That's normal and don't worry. Once this has been
run a few times the wrap will be fragile so don't try and take it off and think
you can reuse it. If you scrape it hard with a tool it could abrade.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307459#307459
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Gearbox/prop |
Roger, or any one else for that matter, how and what do you use to add weight to
balance the prop? I would think you can't remove weight but if you do how do
you do that? I've balanced a lot of things but adding or removing weight on a
Worp Drive prop looks like a very delicate thing. [Shocked]
Rick
--------
701Driver
N35 26.700, W118 16.743
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307465#307465
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Gearbox/prop |
Hi Rick,
There are a couple of ways to add weight.
1. Just add paint or lacquer to the prop. Now of course this depends on the prop
as to what you spray on it.
2. I will quite often just add a washer on the back of one of the mounting bolts.
This is the easiest and you can simply move the washer from bolt to bolt until
you have a good balance and it isn't a permanent thing. Most of the time it
takes a 1"-1.5" fender washer to make enough weight this close to center of
mass, but still a simple effective solution.
3. depending on the spinner set up I might even use the lead wheel stick on weights.
4. If you have a back plate to a spinner you can drill a small hole and add a small
screw and a few washers to the back plate.
Doing a static balance is not hard and everyone should do it. You might not think
your prop needs balancing or can feel it, but you plane does. Since I have
been doing some wheel testing over the last few months I also believe all tires/wheels
should be balanced, too. The balancer I posted previously works well
for both. There are more expensive balancers, but I thought for the money this
was an excellent choice to keep cost down and affordable.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307474#307474
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Gearbox/prop |
Rick, I use paint. My WD 66" three blade with straight blades needed two
grams on one blade and one gram on another and it was right on. I determined
the amount of imbalance by applying 1" squares of Gorilla tape until I got a
balance that didn't change no matter how I oriented the prop on the
balancer. Then I removed the stack of tape squares and weighed them on a
precision digital scale. When I painted the prop I counted the number of
coats I put on each blade (I painted the prop with the blades assembled in
the hub). I made a WAG that two light coats equaled one gram so after I had
all blades equaled out and fully coated I added the number of fog coats that
my WAG said would do the trick. Turned out that was a good WAG. After two
days of drying I checked the balance. I should say at this point that I was
repainting to go from WD flat black to cherry red. Anyway, my plan was to
fine tune by painting the blade tips white after the base coat of paint was
well cured (a couple of months). Back on the balancer (a precision knife
blade type that my A & P neighbor was nice enough to loan me) I nailed it
within .2 grams, a bit less than half the spec. I figured that was good
enough. I haven't gone back to repaint the tips, I'll do it when I check
prop balance at next annual.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Aug 4, 2010 at 9:14 AM, ricklach <rick@ravenaviation.us> wrote:
> >
>
> Roger, or any one else for that matter, how and what do you use to add
> weight to balance the prop? I would think you can't remove weight but if you
> do how do you do that? I've balanced a lot of things but adding or removing
> weight on a Worp Drive prop looks like a very delicate thing. [Shocked]
>
> Rick
>
> --------
> 701Driver
> N35 26.700, W118 16.743
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=307465#307465
>
>
Message 6
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Hello. I have a Zodiac 601 HDS. I had GSC 68 inch, 3 blade prop. Today
I switched to a 68 inch Sensenich prop.
It was a bit bumpy up there this afternoon, but at 5000 RPM, it seems
that I have picked up 15 mph with the
Sensenich prop. I will try to report more solid numbers later. The blade
is pitched to 3; (the pitch numbers go from 1 to 5)
When I did a static run-up, it was 4700/4800 rpm. When I got up to
altitude and leveled it out, the most RPM I could get was 5100.
The fellow who built my plane has a rubber stop about an inch long
between the panel and the throttle. I am trying to think this through.
My plan is to cut the rubber stop until I am able to reach either 5500
or 5800. This would give me more RPM at takeoff and allow me
to cruise faster if I want to.
Sound like a plan ??
Regards,
Damien
N48TK
Message 7
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If the rubber stop is a throttle stop to prevent over travel damage
cutting
the stop will do nothing. If you got higher rpm with the old prop the
new
one is pitched to heavy.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Damien
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 6:25 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Sensenich Prop
Hello. I have a Zodiac 601 HDS. I had GSC 68 inch, 3 blade prop. Today
I
switched to a 68 inch Sensenich prop.
It was a bit bumpy up there this afternoon, but at 5000 RPM, it seems
that I
have picked up 15 mph with the
Sensenich prop. I will try to report more solid numbers later. The blade
is
pitched to 3; (the pitch numbers go from 1 to 5)
When I did a static run-up, it was 4700/4800 rpm. When I got up to
altitude
and leveled it out, the most RPM I could get was 5100.
The fellow who built my plane has a rubber stop about an inch long
between
the panel and the throttle. I am trying to think this through.
My plan is to cut the rubber stop until I am able to reach either 5500
or
5800. This would give me more RPM at takeoff and allow me
to cruise faster if I want to.
Sound like a plan ??
Regards,
Damien
N48TK
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