Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:24 AM - Re: engine burping (Catz631@aol.com)
2. 05:40 AM - Re: engine burping (Matt Tucciarone)
3. 06:33 AM - Re: EIS 4000 connections (h&jeuropa)
4. 07:31 AM - Re: Re: EIS 4000 connections (Dan Billingsley)
5. 09:06 AM - Re: Re: EIS 4000 connections (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
6. 05:37 PM - Rotax 912 oil system prime and purge (Paul Kuntz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: engine burping |
Matt,
You don't need to burp your engine right after you have run it as the
engine has already done that BUT if you have a high oil tank as I do, on my
Kitfox, the oil will migrate out of the tank back down into the engine over
time. You can slow it down a bit by waiting for the engine to cool and the
oil to thicken a bit then burp the engine, I usually do this when I am
working on other projects in my hanger and do it later in the day. Then instead
of a couple of days before the oil level sinks below the min on the
dipstick it might take 4 days (as an example)
This procedure just decreases the number of revolutions you have to give
the prop when you first burp the engine because you have less oil to pump
back into the oil tank.(but really...whoopdedoo!)
Dick Maddux
912UL
Milton,Fl
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: engine burping |
?Thanks Dick,
I agree with you. The mechanic said that the oil that would get back in
the cylinders would be bad for the engine. I disagree and it looks like
from the response to my post that you and others disagree also.
Thanks to everyone for their input on this.
Matt
From: Catz631@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: engine burping
Matt,
You don't need to burp your engine right after you have run it as the
engine has already done that BUT if you have a high oil tank as I do, on
my Kitfox, the oil will migrate out of the tank back down into the
engine over time. You can slow it down a bit by waiting for the engine
to cool and the oil to thicken a bit then burp the engine, I usually do
this when I am working on other projects in my hanger and do it later in
the day. Then instead of a couple of days before the oil level sinks
below the min on the dipstick it might take 4 days (as an example)
This procedure just decreases the number of revolutions you have to give
the prop when you first burp the engine because you have less oil to
pump back into the oil tank.(but really...whoopdedoo!)
Dick Maddux
912UL
Milton,Fl
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: EIS 4000 connections |
Hi Dan,
You use the CHT sensors supplied by GRT. They are thermocouples. Use the red
& white wire GRT supplied to connect them to Connector B.
The Rotax (VDO) supplied sensors are resistive and could be set up as aux inputs
to the EIS if you desire.
I just unscrewed each Rotax (VDO) sensors, placed the lug of the GRT sensor under
it and rescrewed it in to secure the GRT sensor.
I also did a few checks and satisified myself that the GRT sensor indicated the
same as the Rotax (VDO) sensor.
Hope this helps.
Jim Butcher
Europa XS 914
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324793#324793
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: EIS 4000 connections |
Thank you all for the info and ideas. I have decided to get the ring
thermocouples that fit over the spark plugs. Jim, I'm guessing these are the
"connector B" that you used?
Thanks all again,
Dan
----- Original Message ----
> From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43@att.net>
> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tue, December 28, 2010 7:30:55 AM
> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections
>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> You use the CHT sensors supplied by GRT. They are thermocouples. Use the red
>& white wire GRT supplied to connect them to Connector B.
>
>
> The Rotax (VDO) supplied sensors are resistive and could be set up as aux
>inputs to the EIS if you desire.
>
>
> I just unscrewed each Rotax (VDO) sensors, placed the lug of the GRT sensor
>under it and rescrewed it in to secure the GRT sensor.
>
> I also did a few checks and satisified myself that the GRT sensor indicated the
>same as the Rotax (VDO) sensor.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Jim Butcher
> Europa XS 914
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324793#324793
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: EIS 4000 connections |
Dan=0Atrouble with these is they are disturbed every time you check the plu
gs. Not =0Areliable long term imho=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________
_______________=0AFrom: Dan Billingsley <dan@azshowersolutions.com>=0ATo: r
otaxengines-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, 28 December, 2010 15:28:55
=0ASubject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections=0A=0A--> RotaxE
ngines-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley =0A<dan@azshowersolutions.co
m>=0A=0AThank you all for the info and ideas. I have decided to get the rin
g =0Athermocouples that fit over the spark plugs. Jim, I'm guessing these a
re the =0A"connector B" that you used?=0AThanks all again,=0ADan=0A=0A=0A
=0A----- Original Message ----=0A> From: "h&jeuropa" <butcher43@att.net
>=0A> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Tue, December 28, 2010
7:30:55 AM=0A> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections=0A> =0A
et>=0A> =0A> Hi Dan,=0A> =0A> You use the CHT sensors supplied by GRT. The
y are thermocouples. Use the red =0A=0A>& white wire GRT supplied to conne
ct them to Connector B. =0A>=0A> =0A> The Rotax (VDO) supplied sensors ar
e resistive and could be set up as aux =0A>inputs to the EIS if you desire.
=0A>=0A> =0A> I just unscrewed each Rotax (VDO) sensors, placed the lug
of the GRT sensor =0A>under it and rescrewed it in to secure the GRT sensor
.=0A> =0A> I also did a few checks and satisified myself that the GRT senso
r indicated the =0A>=0A>same as the Rotax (VDO) sensor.=0A> =0A> Hope this
helps.=0A> =0A> Jim Butcher=0A> Europa XS 914=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read
this topic online here:=0A> =0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?
p=324793#324793=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A
==================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Rotax 912 oil system prime and purge |
I am completing installation of a Rotax 912UL in a Pipistrel Sinus. The
installation includes an oil temperature thermostat. I acquired an oil
priming kit from California Power Systems and am following the instructions
in the kit, as well as the video on the Rotax Owners web site. See the
links below to a couple of photos of my installation.
Oil thermostat:
http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/oil_thermostat_12.JPG&target=tlx_pic2orp
Oil cooler:
http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/Baffle_seal_1.JPG&target=tlx_picm5rc
I have a few questions:
I have applied air pressure to the oil tank and turned the prop through
until I get oil pressure and oil is coming out of the oil return line. The
oil comes out in a slow trickle. Should it be a flow with some real
volume? That is, should it gush out, or is a small trickle enough?
I don't have my engine instrumentation installed yet, so I am measuring the
resistance of the VDO sender to determine oil pressure. I get 8.1 ohms with
no pressure in the system, which corresponds reasonably well with some
calibration data that appears on this forum awhile back. I get about 45
ohms while turning the prop through, which would indicate something above 30
psi at the sender, so I seem to be getting good oil pressure.
Various sources that describe the purge procedure talk about using
"appropriate measures" to ensure that the oil circuit through the oil cooler
is filled, because the oil cooler is bypassed by the thermostat when the oil
is cold. I'm doing the purge at normal room temperature, and the person I
spoke with at CPS said that there will always be some oil passed through the
oil cooler circuit, even when the thermostat is cool. After achieving the
purge conditions described above, I tried pulling the oil hose off of the
outlet fitting on the oil cooler, expecting to find both the cooler and the
hose full of oil. What I found is evidence that oil is flowing through
there, by way of some oil dripping out of the hose, but they certainly
weren't full of oil.
So, I used a heat gun to warm up the thermostat until is was hot to the
touch, then pulled the prop through for a bunch of revolutions. This
appears to draw some more oil out of the oil tank, as evidenced by a drop in
the oil level, and some more oil came out of the return line -- perhaps a
half a cup or so during this step. Then I pulled the hose from the oil
cooler again, with the same result as before -- some oil present, but the
line is basically empty and full of air.
What should I be expecting? Are the cooler and the lines going to fill with
oil and remain full? Seems like they should. The purging instructions and
the warnings about engine damage all talk about getting rid of all air in
the system. Otherwise, if I ran the engine right now, a whole bunch of air
is going to hit the oil pump, which will be a bad thing.
I realize that by pulling the oil line from the cooler I am breaking the
system seal and introducing an air pocket, which will have to be purged out,
but until I checked that hose, it appeared to me that I had achieved the
objectives of the purge. That is, I had 30 psi of oil pressure and I had
oil coming out of the return line.
Advice?
Regards,
Paul Kuntz
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