---------------------------------------------------------- RotaxEngines-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 12/28/10: 6 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:24 AM - Re: engine burping (Catz631@aol.com) 2. 05:40 AM - Re: engine burping (Matt Tucciarone) 3. 06:33 AM - Re: EIS 4000 connections (h&jeuropa) 4. 07:31 AM - Re: Re: EIS 4000 connections (Dan Billingsley) 5. 09:06 AM - Re: Re: EIS 4000 connections (GRAHAM SINGLETON) 6. 05:37 PM - Rotax 912 oil system prime and purge (Paul Kuntz) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:24:22 AM PST US From: Catz631@aol.com Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: engine burping Matt, You don't need to burp your engine right after you have run it as the engine has already done that BUT if you have a high oil tank as I do, on my Kitfox, the oil will migrate out of the tank back down into the engine over time. You can slow it down a bit by waiting for the engine to cool and the oil to thicken a bit then burp the engine, I usually do this when I am working on other projects in my hanger and do it later in the day. Then instead of a couple of days before the oil level sinks below the min on the dipstick it might take 4 days (as an example) This procedure just decreases the number of revolutions you have to give the prop when you first burp the engine because you have less oil to pump back into the oil tank.(but really...whoopdedoo!) Dick Maddux 912UL Milton,Fl ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:40:43 AM PST US From: "Matt Tucciarone" Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: engine burping ?Thanks Dick, I agree with you. The mechanic said that the oil that would get back in the cylinders would be bad for the engine. I disagree and it looks like from the response to my post that you and others disagree also. Thanks to everyone for their input on this. Matt From: Catz631@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 8:19 AM Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: engine burping Matt, You don't need to burp your engine right after you have run it as the engine has already done that BUT if you have a high oil tank as I do, on my Kitfox, the oil will migrate out of the tank back down into the engine over time. You can slow it down a bit by waiting for the engine to cool and the oil to thicken a bit then burp the engine, I usually do this when I am working on other projects in my hanger and do it later in the day. Then instead of a couple of days before the oil level sinks below the min on the dipstick it might take 4 days (as an example) This procedure just decreases the number of revolutions you have to give the prop when you first burp the engine because you have less oil to pump back into the oil tank.(but really...whoopdedoo!) Dick Maddux 912UL Milton,Fl ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:33:32 AM PST US Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections From: "h&jeuropa" Hi Dan, You use the CHT sensors supplied by GRT. They are thermocouples. Use the red & white wire GRT supplied to connect them to Connector B. The Rotax (VDO) supplied sensors are resistive and could be set up as aux inputs to the EIS if you desire. I just unscrewed each Rotax (VDO) sensors, placed the lug of the GRT sensor under it and rescrewed it in to secure the GRT sensor. I also did a few checks and satisified myself that the GRT sensor indicated the same as the Rotax (VDO) sensor. Hope this helps. Jim Butcher Europa XS 914 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324793#324793 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:31:37 AM PST US From: Dan Billingsley Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections Thank you all for the info and ideas. I have decided to get the ring thermocouples that fit over the spark plugs. Jim, I'm guessing these are the "connector B" that you used? Thanks all again, Dan ----- Original Message ---- > From: "h&jeuropa" > To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com > Sent: Tue, December 28, 2010 7:30:55 AM > Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections > > > Hi Dan, > > You use the CHT sensors supplied by GRT. They are thermocouples. Use the red >& white wire GRT supplied to connect them to Connector B. > > > The Rotax (VDO) supplied sensors are resistive and could be set up as aux >inputs to the EIS if you desire. > > > I just unscrewed each Rotax (VDO) sensors, placed the lug of the GRT sensor >under it and rescrewed it in to secure the GRT sensor. > > I also did a few checks and satisified myself that the GRT sensor indicated the >same as the Rotax (VDO) sensor. > > Hope this helps. > > Jim Butcher > Europa XS 914 > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324793#324793 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:06:13 AM PST US From: GRAHAM SINGLETON Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections Dan=0Atrouble with these is they are disturbed every time you check the plu gs. Not =0Areliable long term imho=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_________________ _______________=0AFrom: Dan Billingsley =0ATo: r otaxengines-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Tuesday, 28 December, 2010 15:28:55 =0ASubject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections=0A=0A--> RotaxE ngines-List message posted by: Dan Billingsley =0A=0A=0AThank you all for the info and ideas. I have decided to get the rin g =0Athermocouples that fit over the spark plugs. Jim, I'm guessing these a re the =0A"connector B" that you used?=0AThanks all again,=0ADan=0A=0A=0A =0A----- Original Message ----=0A> From: "h&jeuropa" =0A> To: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com=0A> Sent: Tue, December 28, 2010 7:30:55 AM=0A> Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: EIS 4000 connections=0A> =0A et>=0A> =0A> Hi Dan,=0A> =0A> You use the CHT sensors supplied by GRT. The y are thermocouples. Use the red =0A=0A>& white wire GRT supplied to conne ct them to Connector B. =0A>=0A> =0A> The Rotax (VDO) supplied sensors ar e resistive and could be set up as aux =0A>inputs to the EIS if you desire. =0A>=0A> =0A> I just unscrewed each Rotax (VDO) sensors, placed the lug of the GRT sensor =0A>under it and rescrewed it in to secure the GRT sensor .=0A> =0A> I also did a few checks and satisified myself that the GRT senso r indicated the =0A>=0A>same as the Rotax (VDO) sensor.=0A> =0A> Hope this helps.=0A> =0A> Jim Butcher=0A> Europa XS 914=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> Read this topic online here:=0A> =0A> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php? p=324793#324793=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A ================== ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:37:19 PM PST US Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Rotax 912 oil system prime and purge From: Paul Kuntz I am completing installation of a Rotax 912UL in a Pipistrel Sinus. The installation includes an oil temperature thermostat. I acquired an oil priming kit from California Power Systems and am following the instructions in the kit, as well as the video on the Rotax Owners web site. See the links below to a couple of photos of my installation. Oil thermostat: http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/oil_thermostat_12.JPG&target=tlx_pic2orp Oil cooler: http://webhosting.web.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.pipistrelbuilders.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/Baffle_seal_1.JPG&target=tlx_picm5rc I have a few questions: I have applied air pressure to the oil tank and turned the prop through until I get oil pressure and oil is coming out of the oil return line. The oil comes out in a slow trickle. Should it be a flow with some real volume? That is, should it gush out, or is a small trickle enough? I don't have my engine instrumentation installed yet, so I am measuring the resistance of the VDO sender to determine oil pressure. I get 8.1 ohms with no pressure in the system, which corresponds reasonably well with some calibration data that appears on this forum awhile back. I get about 45 ohms while turning the prop through, which would indicate something above 30 psi at the sender, so I seem to be getting good oil pressure. Various sources that describe the purge procedure talk about using "appropriate measures" to ensure that the oil circuit through the oil cooler is filled, because the oil cooler is bypassed by the thermostat when the oil is cold. I'm doing the purge at normal room temperature, and the person I spoke with at CPS said that there will always be some oil passed through the oil cooler circuit, even when the thermostat is cool. After achieving the purge conditions described above, I tried pulling the oil hose off of the outlet fitting on the oil cooler, expecting to find both the cooler and the hose full of oil. What I found is evidence that oil is flowing through there, by way of some oil dripping out of the hose, but they certainly weren't full of oil. So, I used a heat gun to warm up the thermostat until is was hot to the touch, then pulled the prop through for a bunch of revolutions. This appears to draw some more oil out of the oil tank, as evidenced by a drop in the oil level, and some more oil came out of the return line -- perhaps a half a cup or so during this step. Then I pulled the hose from the oil cooler again, with the same result as before -- some oil present, but the line is basically empty and full of air. What should I be expecting? Are the cooler and the lines going to fill with oil and remain full? Seems like they should. The purging instructions and the warnings about engine damage all talk about getting rid of all air in the system. Otherwise, if I ran the engine right now, a whole bunch of air is going to hit the oil pump, which will be a bad thing. I realize that by pulling the oil line from the cooler I am breaking the system seal and introducing an air pocket, which will have to be purged out, but until I checked that hose, it appeared to me that I had achieved the objectives of the purge. That is, I had 30 psi of oil pressure and I had oil coming out of the return line. Advice? Regards, Paul Kuntz ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rotaxengines-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RotaxEngines-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rotaxengines-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rotaxengines-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.