Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:14 AM - Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. (FLYaDIVE)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. (Thom Riddle)
3. 04:58 AM - Re: Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. (william sullivan)
4. 06:10 AM - Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. (blackmore@platinum.ca)
5. 10:34 AM - Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. (b d)
6. 06:00 PM - Low regulator output voltage (Roger Lee)
7. 06:04 PM - Low voltage output from the Ducatic regulator (Roger Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. |
Roger:
INTERESTING....
I have never had a problem mounting a tire to a wheel...
Where I have problems is separating the tire from the wheel. Especially if
it has been on for a long time.
I guess I could use the clamps, if I had clamps. ;-)
Andy tricks if one does not have clamps?
Yea, Yea, I know - - Buy clamps. ;-)
What I have used successfully (but not what I would suspect is the easiest
method) is just a 2 ft long 2x4 across the tire and stand on it.
Any other suggestions?
Barry
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. |
That is clever.
I have had tires so difficult to remove from the rim half that my 280 lb mechanic
partner standing on the tire could not break the bead. So we built a tool using
pieces of 5/8" plywood with a circular hole just larger than the wheel rim
diameter plus a piece of all-thread, plus clamp bars and nuts to squeeze the
tire off the rim. Works well but this seems a bit simpler.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x32
Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful.
Ann Landers
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331397#331397
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. |
- Don't forget to lube the tire and rim with a bit of soapy water, for on
or off.
-
-------------------------
----------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
----------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
----------------- Kolb FS 447
--- On Fri, 2/18/11, Thom Riddle <riddletr@gmail.com> wrote:
That is clever.
I have had tires so difficult to remove from the rim half that my 280 lb me
chanic partner standing on the tire could not break the bead. So we built a
tool using pieces of 5/8" plywood with a circular hole just larger than th
e wheel rim diameter plus a piece of all-thread, plus clamp bars and nuts t
o squeeze the tire off the rim. Works well but this seems a bit simpler.
le, List Admin.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. |
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: How to mount a tire the easy way. |
Separating a tire from the rim on small aircraft:
As a Vintage A&P and having changed out many tires and my preferred method
was relatively simple and effective. I used two large heavy bladed and blunt
screw drivers, not your watch repair screwdrivers, more like heavy equipment
type screw drivers . . .the bigger and dumber the better . . . Then I would
squat and put my knees on both sides of the "deflated" tire. A little soapy
water is always good too. Then I would just work my way around the tire a
little at a time, pushing in the screwdrivers in and prying a little each
time. It was more Neanderthal than NASA but it works.
On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 4:11 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> Roger:
>
> INTERESTING....
>
> I have never had a problem mounting a tire to a wheel...
> Where I have problems is separating the tire from the wheel. Especially if
> it has been on for a long time.
> I guess I could use the clamps, if I had clamps. ;-)
> Andy tricks if one does not have clamps?
> Yea, Yea, I know - - Buy clamps. ;-)
> What I have used successfully (but not what I would suspect is the easiest
> method) is just a 2 ft long 2x4 across the tire and stand on it.
> Any other suggestions?
>
> Barry
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Low regulator output voltage |
Hi All,
One of our electrical engineer members came up with this and if he wants to step
forward for the credit he can.
Have you a low voltage output around 13.1V - 13.3V from the Rotax Ducati regulator?
Many have for years. My battery (an Odyssey) never gets to a full charge as it
needs 14.0V - 14.2V. When I turn on my landing light my voltage drops to 11.8V
on my Dynon at low rpms whether at idle or coming in for landing, plus the light
is not near as bright. There is a fix, but you technically need an LOA from
the aircraft Mfg if you have an SLSA. Here is a picture below. You use a 1 amp
200V diode which is available at any electronics store. The band on one end
will face up. It goes between the Regulator Rectifier "R" slot and the "Charge"
slot. There is a small white wire already between these two slots and this
is what you are replacing and then that small wire needs to be clipped in half.
This will raise your output charging voltage .8 volts. You can not use this
if you have 13.5V or more output charge already. When I tried this mod it went
from 13.2V to 14.1V. When I turn on my running lights and all other electrical
(other than the landing light) the voltage drops .1V - .2V. When I turn on the
landing light it drops to 13.2V, but at least it doesn't drop to 11.7V any
more. We all know our type battery requires 14.1V - 14.2V to charge fully and
that's one reason for the right type of charger in the hanger. When you have a
battery that only gets charged 60% - 70% (13.2V) things don't work as well. Lately
my flaps were running slow and once in a while blinked for a few seconds.
Now they are quick and crisp again. My plane starts up much faster and easier
with a fully charged battery. You have 2 options for a connection. Solder the
diode in place or use something like a Molex connector crimped on each end of
the diode. Use a wire tie to secure this diode or jumper wire in place to help
protect against any vibration.
What is the down side? If the diode were to fail some day then your voltage would
climb to 15 volts and be in an over charge state at the battery. The quick
and easy fix is to manage voltage until you land by pulling the generator breaker
and let the battery discharge for a while then turn it back on for a while
until you land. If it were me I would use the crimp method on the diode and make
up a 2.5" plain wire jumper with Molex connector on each end. In an emergency,
all you would have to do is unplug the diode and plug the jumper wire in
place then you are right back to a stock set up. Keep the little jumper in your
tool kit. I'll try to take a picture of the jumper wire and post it here this
weekend.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331470#331470
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rotax_voltage_output_increase1_161.pdf
Message 7
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| Subject: | Low voltage output from the Ducatic regulator |
How many of you only have about 13.1V - 13.3V charge output to the battery? (I
have a fix if enough people have an issue)
How many have at least 13.8V+?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=331471#331471
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