Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:47 AM - Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure (hhobbit)
2. 02:02 AM - Re: Re: ethanol (GRAHAM SINGLETON)
3. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: ethanol (FLYaDIVE)
4. 08:57 AM - An educational oil pressure issue. (Roger Lee)
5. 10:12 AM - Compression Ratio Rotax 912ULS (John Fasching)
6. 10:28 AM - Re: Compression Ratio Rotax 912ULS (Roger Lee)
7. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: Compression Ratio Rotax 912ULS (FLYaDIVE)
8. 01:20 PM - Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure (Remi Guerner)
9. 03:42 PM - Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
10. 03:56 PM - Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
11. 04:04 PM - Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
12. 04:06 PM - Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
13. 04:07 PM - Re: Low Oil Pressure (Dan Wilde)
14. 04:12 PM - Re: Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
15. 04:34 PM - Re: Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
16. 04:42 PM - Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
17. 04:49 PM - Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
18. 04:57 PM - Re: Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
19. 04:58 PM - Re: Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
20. 05:03 PM - Re: Re: ethanol (Noel Loveys)
21. 08:07 PM - New Rotax Owners Website engine forum (Roger Lee)
22. 11:44 PM - Re: Low Oil Pressure (Bob Harrison)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure |
At my last annual, the mechanic warned me to watch for wiring trouble due to vibration.
We put extra cable ties around the module connectors to prevent relative
movement.
Now you guys have probably seen clear wire insulation with a colour stripe along
its length. Its got to be a no brainer when it comes to preventing a hidden
fracture, so come on manufacturers, adopt this suggestion wherever an internally
broken wire is a hazard! At a stroke we could put an end to this worry.
Is there any aftermarket supplier who could make harnesses to that specification?
And any idea of the price?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341178#341178
Message 2
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Thom=0Athere was a fire refueling a Europa after a long flight on a hot dry
day. =0APlastic can, part plastic funnel and just at the end of emptying t
he can. N =0AGermany about ten years ago. =0A=0A=0A,My guess was a spark fr
om the metal breather outlet to the metal part of the =0Afunnel. Pipe from
tank to breather top was plastic too so droplets rushing up =0Athe pipe in
the air stream would tend to pick up charge. Funnel was grounded by =0Athe
man's hand.=0AGraham=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom:
Thom Riddle <riddletr@gmail.com>=0ATo: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com=0AS
ent: Thursday, 26 May, 2011 14:15:55=0ASubject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: etha
mail.com>=0A=0ARick,=0A=0AThanks for your fire story. Glad that you had a v
ery cheap learning experience. =0ACould have been disastrous. =0A=0A=0AThat
is the first actual case of fire from static discharge I've heard of using
=0Aplastic cans for filling an aircraft tank. I use a 15 gallon storage ta
nk and =0Ahand pump but have been neglecting grounding it to the airframe d
ue to sheer =0Alaziness. I will be grounding from now on, without fail.=0A
=0A--------=0AThom Riddle=0ABuffalo, NY (9G0)=0AKolb Slingshot SS-021=0AJab
iru 2200A #1574=0ATennessee Prop 64x32=0A=0ATruth is what stands the test o
f experience.=0A- Albert Einstein=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here
:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341093#341093=0A=0A=0A
=======================
Message 3
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Peter:
Thank you for the link.
I just sent off an email to them.
Barry
On Thu, May 26, 2011 at 11:54 AM, Pete Christensen <
pchristensen10@austin.rr.com> wrote:
> http://portablefuelsystems.com/AlcoholSeparator.htm
>
>
> On 5/25/2011 9:18 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Hello Pete:
>
> I went to the web site, could not find anythng about washing the gas or
> octain ratings.
>
> Could you send the exact link that will get me to where you read the
> information.
>
> Barry
>
> On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 7:00 PM, Pete Christensen <
> pchristensen10@austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> According to Portablefuelsystems.com before washing 91.3 octane after
>> washing 88.7.
>>
>> Pete
>>
>>
>>
>> On 5/25/2011 5:28 PM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>> Hi Roger:
>>
>> How did you get the octane rating of 87 after washing 91?
>>
>> Alcohol does add a small amount of octane but I really doubt if it is 4
>> points.
>>
>> Do you know anyone that can run octane tests?
>>
>> I have a couple of tests I want to get done.
>>
>> As for the pitting of the fuel bowl... That is an easy cure. Send it out
>> and get it Hard Coat Anodized to a thickness of 0.0025". It should cost
>> about $20 to $50 tops. When talking to the plating house you - should -
>> know what kind of aluminum it is made from. OR at least if it is cast or
>> machined from a billet. Also be nice to the house and ask if they could
>> just run it with a bigger batch - NO SPECIAL HANDLING REQUIRED. This keeps
>> price down.
>>
>> Barry
>> On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> If you use washed 91 oct it will be 87 when your done. If you have a
>>> 912ULS (100 hp) that won't work. If you start with 87 oct it isn't fit for
>>> either 912. You will eventually end up replacing the carb bowls at $100 a
>>> piece because the very small amount of moisture still in the fuel will pit
>>> the aluminum bowl. I have had to replace a few of these already for the long
>>> term hard core washers.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Roger Lee
>>> Tucson, Az.
>>> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
>>> Rotax Repair Center
>>> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
>>> Cell 520-349-7056
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340993#340993
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -List" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>
>> ttp://forums.matronics.com
>>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | An educational oil pressure issue. |
Hi All,
This was a private email, but I was given permission to post this. I hope we can
all learn and get something from it. It needs to be read from the bottom up.
Roger,
Thank you again!. It turns out the top ground that goes through the
firewall behind the instrument panel was loose. Tighten that up and not
only does the gauge work right, but the little static we'd picked up on
the radio is gone too!
Steve Privett
Privett Aviation
626-484-3593
http://privettaviation.com
_____|_____
___(*)_/__
o/ o
On 5/25/2011 5:08 PM, Roger Lee wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
> Your grounds are loose. There are about 5 to tighten. Under the cowl
> on the battery side. you will see a ground under the starter, the
> reg/rec, to the air frame the battery ground and up above these there
> is at least one bolt maybe two that go through the firewall and in
> behind the passenger side panel. Tighten all those in the engine
> compartment, then tighten the two that go through the firewall. loosen
> the top nut holding the wires down so you can tighten the nut on the
> bottom of the bolt. tighten it good. Then re-tighten the top nut. Once
> you look in there you will se what I'm talking about. This should
> solve your problem. It shouldn't take any longer than 15-20 min. to do
> all this.
>
> Roger Lee
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Privett"
>
> To: "ssadiver"
> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 2:55 PM
> Subject: Oil pressure in CTSW/Rotax
>
>
>> Roger,
>> We have the CTSW (996CT) and have had low oil pressure readings. We
>> replaced the sending unit with the VDO unit without the brass ring,
>> as bought from lockwood, adn the oil pressure was holding around 70
>> psi during flight. This worked fine for about 15 hours and now after
>> about an hour flight, the oil pressure increases and the analog gauge
>> pegs in the red.
>>
>> Is this a weak pressure spring or something else that you might know of?
>>
>> Steve Privett
>> Privett Aviation
>> 626-484-3593
>> http://privettaviation.com
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341207#341207
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| Subject: | Compression Ratio Rotax 912ULS |
I can't seem to find the differential pressure figure that I want to
check on the 912ULS. If its in the heavy duty maintenance manual I
didn't see it.
What xx/80 should I expect if all is well?
thanks for the help
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Compression Ratio Rotax 912ULS |
Hi John,
Your maint items can be found in the "Line Maint" manual. Yopu can use 8087 psi
test pressure. I'm old school so I still use 87, but regular A&P's use 80. A
normal drop in pressure is 2-4 psi.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341216#341216
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| Subject: | Re: Compression Ratio Rotax 912ULS |
Roger:
With the 80 PSI procedure what is the LOWEST acceptable PSI to pass?
Barry
On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 1:25 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hi John,
>
> Your maint items can be found in the "Line Maint" manual. Yopu can use 8087
> psi test pressure. I'm old school so I still use 87, but regular A&P's use
> 80. A normal drop in pressure is 2-4 psi.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341216#341216
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: urgent: 912S ignition failure |
I am still troubleshooting my ignition system. I am now suspecting the charging
coils. Unfortunately the Rotax Maintenance manuals does not provide any indication
on the characteristics of these coils except for their resistance value,
which I found to be ok. What I need is the voltage delivered versus the crankshaft
speed in the 200-500 RPM range.
Has anybody access to this information?
Remi Guerner
Europa F-PGKL, grounded courtesy of Rotax
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341223#341223
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When washing gas you should let it settle at least.... emphasis on the word
"Least" twenty minutes before siphoning off the gas. The other thing is
with ethanol in your fuel the water is still there you just don't see it
because it's in a phase relationship with the gas.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Christensen
Sent: May 25, 2011 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
What I have found in washing the alcohol from my gasoline is that a small
amount of settling occurs in the tank while the plane is sitting. I drain
my gascolator before and after each flight. The gascolator bowl has started
to rust and I plan to clean it up and coat the bowl with Kreem. I
discontinued using washed gas over the winter since my plane sat more. I
may try washing my gas twice to see if this stops the settlement.
Pete
On 2/7/2011 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
If you really, really have to fly on ethanol fuel then you have already
broken the first cardinal rule. Never leave fuel in your plane for an
extended period of time. If you have high humidity, as you said, it will
absorb some of the moisture and when that happens it, not only gets closer
to a phase separation but becomes very corrosive.... It may eat your tanks
if they are anything but stainless steel. It will probably start to eat
your fuel system including the carb body and the fuel lines. Best not to
leave it in the plane and only fly on fresh fuel. BTW you will know when
you have a phase separation happening... you will get something just over
10% of the quantity of fuel in your tank showing up as water. So if you
have left say 15 gal of fuel in your plane then if it separates you will get
1.5 gallons of water/ethanol solution (mostly water) hitting your carb or
injectors. A little good news is if you are using a paper filter it will
try to block the water from passing... unfortunately there won't be
anything else but water to pass. The milky substance you did find is
probably something the ethanol started to eat.
The second point is as Barry mentioned remove the ethanol form your fuel by
adding enough water to cause a phase separation. Then siphon the clear
ethanol free gas off the top of the water ethanol solution that will form on
the bottom of the container. Be careful though, to let the gas sit for
about twenty minutes so all the water can settle out before siphoning the
gas. And always use a good chamois or felt to strain your gas... either of
those products will pass gas but not water. If you remove the ethanol from
your fuel then it won't hurt to leave the gas in your plane between flights
for periods of up to I guess a month or so.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: February 7, 2011 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
Joe:
There are a few things that would cause your fuel to go cloudy:
Contamination in the tank.
Hygroscopic action of the alcohol
Temperature (low) causing the water to freeze
Being that you found only 1/2 ounce I would also consider:
The drain plugs as being contaminated due to oxidation
How clean was the inspection tube that you were using
When you say 'separation', are you referring to the water separating out
from the fuel due to saturation? If yes, then YES you could be seeing the
water above what the alcohol would hold in suspension.
A 1/2 ounce... I would not worry about. But why use gas with ethanol - Do
the separation procedure that has been discussed here on line and you will
reduce the chances of water.
Barry
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Joe and Joan Kimbell
<jnjkimbell@hotmail.com> wrote:
Appreciate some info concerning fuel seperation. I have CH701 with the
100hp riotax. I live in a high humedity area and have not been flying much
lately. I use 10% ethanol fuel and last time I started to fly (fuel had
been in A/C over a month) and checked the lowest drain, I found cloudy fuel,
not water, but did not lood good. I continued to drain fuel until it was
clear, probably a half an ounce. Was this cloudy fuel on the point of
seperation? I did go ahead and fly with no problems, but after thinking
about it, what would the list's ideas be. Very glad it kept running, though
an both tanks the fuel seemed to come out of only one tank. No external
fuel pump. Gravity feed.
=========
>
>
>
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
http://forums.matronics.com
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Fact of the matter is they don't... or at least not all of them do.
I was recently in Florida, great state!, when I met a man who had a 52
Bentley .... dead. He said it was a problem with the fuel pump inside the
right rear wheel... Sorry to tell you but in 52 the only pump put on a
Bentley was engine driven at the front of the car not under the backside.
What he actually had there was a Fram filter that someone who didn't know
any better installed to try to protect the car from fifty five years of gum
build up that was loosened by, Yep, Ethanol. I feel that a filter was
probably justified after so many years of first leaded gas then a host of
different non lead stuff and finally ethanol.... But! BIG BUT! The place
for a filter is after the fuel pump not between it and the gas tank. Those
old cars are designed to burn anything that will pass through their screens
so install a screen with more screening area and then check them regularly.
This is only one instance there have been literally thousands of others. If
you want to add the fact that planes undergo relatively large temperature
changes (down) in flight this adds another reason to avoid using the stuff
in planes.
Some of us have to use it. If this is your case then do so carefully.
Never leave gas in your plane, never fly on old gas and be sure to purchase
your gas at a busy station because they get more deliveries a week and so
their gas doesn't get the same chance of absorbing moisture in their tanks.
Good flights
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of ray
atkinson
Sent: May 25, 2011 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
How in the world do millions of cars run trillions of miles trouble free on
this stuff??
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Christensen <mailto:pchristensen10@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
What I have found in washing the alcohol from my gasoline is that a small
amount of settling occurs in the tank while the plane is sitting. I drain
my gascolator before and after each flight. The gascolator bowl has started
to rust and I plan to clean it up and coat the bowl with Kreem. I
discontinued using washed gas over the winter since my plane sat more. I
may try washing my gas twice to see if this stops the settlement.
Pete
On 2/7/2011 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
If you really, really have to fly on ethanol fuel then you have already
broken the first cardinal rule. Never leave fuel in your plane for an
extended period of time. If you have high humidity, as you said, it will
absorb some of the moisture and when that happens it, not only gets closer
to a phase separation but becomes very corrosive.... It may eat your tanks
if they are anything but stainless steel. It will probably start to eat
your fuel system including the carb body and the fuel lines. Best not to
leave it in the plane and only fly on fresh fuel. BTW you will know when
you have a phase separation happening... you will get something just over
10% of the quantity of fuel in your tank showing up as water. So if you
have left say 15 gal of fuel in your plane then if it separates you will get
1.5 gallons of water/ethanol solution (mostly water) hitting your carb or
injectors. A little good news is if you are using a paper filter it will
try to block the water from passing... unfortunately there won't be
anything else but water to pass. The milky substance you did find is
probably something the ethanol started to eat.
The second point is as Barry mentioned remove the ethanol form your fuel by
adding enough water to cause a phase separation. Then siphon the clear
ethanol free gas off the top of the water ethanol solution that will form on
the bottom of the container. Be careful though, to let the gas sit for
about twenty minutes so all the water can settle out before siphoning the
gas. And always use a good chamois or felt to strain your gas... either of
those products will pass gas but not water. If you remove the ethanol from
your fuel then it won't hurt to leave the gas in your plane between flights
for periods of up to I guess a month or so.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: February 7, 2011 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
Joe:
There are a few things that would cause your fuel to go cloudy:
Contamination in the tank.
Hygroscopic action of the alcohol
Temperature (low) causing the water to freeze
Being that you found only 1/2 ounce I would also consider:
The drain plugs as being contaminated due to oxidation
How clean was the inspection tube that you were using
When you say 'separation', are you referring to the water separating out
from the fuel due to saturation? If yes, then YES you could be seeing the
water above what the alcohol would hold in suspension.
A 1/2 ounce... I would not worry about. But why use gas with ethanol - Do
the separation procedure that has been discussed here on line and you will
reduce the chances of water.
Barry
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Joe and Joan Kimbell
<jnjkimbell@hotmail.com> wrote:
Appreciate some info concerning fuel seperation. I have CH701 with the
100hp riotax. I live in a high humedity area and have not been flying much
lately. I use 10% ethanol fuel and last time I started to fly (fuel had
been in A/C over a month) and checked the lowest drain, I found cloudy fuel,
not water, but did not lood good. I continued to drain fuel until it was
clear, probably a half an ounce. Was this cloudy fuel on the point of
seperation? I did go ahead and fly with no problems, but after thinking
about it, what would the list's ideas be. Very glad it kept running, though
an both tanks the fuel seemed to come out of only one tank. No external
fuel pump. Gravity feed.
=========
>
>
>
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List">http://www.matro
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Message 11
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Sure it did there are less BTU of energy in a gallon of ethanol than
there is in a gallon of gas... BTW there is also more BTU of energy in
a gallon of Diesel than in a gallon of gas. That=99s why Diesel
cars run further on a gallon of fuel than Gas powered cars and
it=99s also the reason Gasoline powered cars go further on a
gallon of fuel than ethanol powered engines.
If the idea of ethanol was to save gasoline reserves they had failed
miserably.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Christensen
Sent: May 25, 2011 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
I know for sure my car mileage went down when they started pumping
gasohol.
Pete
On 5/25/2011 11:25 AM, Rick Thomason wrote:
Who said they were "trouble free"?
On May 25, 2011, at 10:31 AM, "ray atkinson" <raybot@comcast.net> wrote:
How in the world do millions of cars run trillions of miles trouble free
on this stuff??
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Christensen <mailto:pchristensen10@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
What I have found in washing the alcohol from my gasoline is that a
small amount of settling occurs in the tank while the plane is sitting.
I drain my gascolator before and after each flight. The gascolator bowl
has started to rust and I plan to clean it up and coat the bowl with
Kreem. I discontinued using washed gas over the winter since my plane
sat more. I may try washing my gas twice to see if this stops the
settlement.
Pete
On 2/7/2011 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
If you really, really have to fly on ethanol fuel then you have already
broken the first cardinal rule. Never leave fuel in your plane for an
extended period of time. If you have high humidity, as you said, it
will absorb some of the moisture and when that happens it, not only gets
closer to a phase separation but becomes very corrosive.... It may eat
your tanks if they are anything but stainless steel. It will probably
start to eat your fuel system including the carb body and the fuel
lines. Best not to leave it in the plane and only fly on fresh fuel.
BTW you will know when you have a phase separation happening... you
will get something just over 10% of the quantity of fuel in your tank
showing up as water. So if you have left say 15 gal of fuel in your
plane then if it separates you will get 1.5 gallons of water/ethanol
solution (mostly water) hitting your carb or injectors. A little good
news is if you are using a paper filter it will try to block the water
from passing... unfortunately there won=99t be anything else but
water to pass. The milky substance you did find is probably something
the ethanol started to eat.
The second point is as Barry mentioned remove the ethanol form your fuel
by adding enough water to cause a phase separation. Then siphon the
clear ethanol free gas off the top of the water ethanol solution that
will form on the bottom of the container. Be careful though, to let the
gas sit for about twenty minutes so all the water can settle out before
siphoning the gas. And always use a good chamois or felt to strain your
gas... either of those products will pass gas but not water. If you
remove the ethanol from your fuel then it won=99t hurt to leave
the gas in your plane between flights for periods of up to I guess a
month or so.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
FLYaDIVE
Sent: February 7, 2011 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
Joe:
There are a few things that would cause your fuel to go cloudy:
Contamination in the tank.
Hygroscopic action of the alcohol
Temperature (low) causing the water to freeze
Being that you found only 1/2 ounce I would also consider:
The drain plugs as being contaminated due to oxidation
How clean was the inspection tube that you were using
When you say 'separation', are you referring to the water separating out
from the fuel due to saturation? If yes, then YES you could be seeing
the water above what the alcohol would hold in suspension.
A 1/2 ounce... I would not worry about. But why use gas with ethanol -
Do the separation procedure that has been discussed here on line and you
will reduce the chances of water.
Barry
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Joe and Joan Kimbell
<jnjkimbell@hotmail.com> wrote:
Appreciate some info concerning fuel seperation. I have CH701 with the
100hp riotax. I live in a high humedity area and have not been flying
much lately. I use 10% ethanol fuel and last time I started to fly
(fuel had been in A/C over a month) and checked the lowest drain, I
found cloudy fuel, not water, but did not lood good. I continued to
drain fuel until it was clear, probably a half an ounce. Was this cloudy
fuel on the point of seperation? I did go ahead and fly with no
problems, but after thinking about it, what would the list's ideas be.
Very glad it kept running, though an both tanks the fuel seemed to come
out of only one tank. No external fuel pump. Gravity feed.
=========
>
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Cars, newer ones, all have sealed fuel systems... planes have large vents pressurizing
the tanks.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of paul wilson
Sent: May 25, 2011 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
BS
I leave two cars for 6 months each year unused
full of gas and have never seen any negative things. The cars work just fine.
True - Cars and planes are like apples and
oranges. Cars are designed for toxic and
corrosive fuel and your homebuilt or certified planes are not.
Paul
=====
At 10:24 AM 5/25/2011, Rick Thomason wrote:
>Because they don't have fiberglass fuel tanks!
>
>Leave a half tank of gasohol in your car for 2
>months and then see how well it runs.
>
>Rick
>
>On May 25, 2011, at 10:31 AM, "ray atkinson"
><<mailto:raybot@comcast.net>raybot@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>How in the world do millions of cars run
>>trillions of miles trouble free on this stuff??
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <mailto:pchristensen10@austin.rr.com>Pete Christensen
>>To: <mailto:rotaxengines-list@matronics.com>rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
>>Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 7:37 AM
>>Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
>>What I have found in washing the alcohol from
>>my gasoline is that a small amount of settling
>>occurs in the tank while the plane is
>>sitting. I drain my gascolator before and
>>after each flight. The gascolator bowl has
>>started to rust and I plan to clean it up and
>>coat the bowl with Kreem. I discontinued using
>>washed gas over the winter since my plane sat
>>more. I may try washing my gas twice to see if this stops the settlement.
>>Pete
>>
>>On 2/7/2011 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>>>If you really, really have to fly on ethanol
>>>fuel then you have already broken the first
>>>cardinal rule. Never leave fuel in your plane
>>>for an extended period of time. If you have
>>>high humidity, as you said, it will absorb
>>>some of the moisture and when that happens it,
>>>not only gets closer to a phase separation but
>>>becomes very corrosive.... It may eat your
>>>tanks if they are anything but stainless
>>>steel. It will probably start to eat your
>>>fuel system including the carb body and the
>>>fuel lines. Best not to leave it in the plane
>>>and only fly on fresh fuel. BTW you will know
>>>when you have a phase separation
>>>happening... you will get something just over
>>>10% of the quantity of fuel in your tank
>>>showing up as water. So if you have left say
>>>15 gal of fuel in your plane then if it
>>>separates you will get 1.5 gallons of
>>>water/ethanol solution (mostly water) hitting
>>>your carb or injectors. A little good news is
>>>if you are using a paper filter it will try to
>>>block the water from passing... unfortunately
>>>there wont be anything else but water to
>>>pass. The milky substance you did find is
>>>probably something the ethanol started to eat.
>>>The second point is as Barry mentioned remove
>>>the ethanol form your fuel by adding enough
>>>water to cause a phase separation. Then
>>>siphon the clear ethanol free gas off the top
>>>of the water ethanol solution that will form
>>>on the bottom of the container. Be careful
>>>though, to let the gas sit for about twenty
>>>minutes so all the water can settle out before
>>>siphoning the gas. And always use a good
>>>chamois or felt to strain your gas... either
>>>of those products will pass gas but not
>>>water. If you remove the ethanol from your
>>>fuel then it wont hurt to leave the gas in
>>>your plane between flights for periods of up to I guess a month or so.
>>>Noel
>>>From:
>>><mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com>owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
>>>[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
>>>Sent: February 7, 2011 2:29 PM
>>>To: <mailto:rotaxengines-list@matronics.com>rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
>>>Joe:
>>>There are a few things that would cause your fuel to go cloudy:
>>>Contamination in the tank.
>>>Hygroscopic action of the alcohol
>>>Temperature (low) causing the water to freeze
>>>Being that you found only 1/2 ounce I would also consider:
>>>The drain plugs as being contaminated due to oxidation
>>>How clean was the inspection tube that you were using
>>>When you say 'separation', are you referring
>>>to the water separating out from the fuel due
>>>to saturation? If yes, then YES you could be
>>>seeing the water above what the alcohol would hold in suspension.
>>>A 1/2 ounce... I would not worry about. But
>>>why use gas with ethanol - Do the separation
>>>procedure that has been discussed here on line
>>>and you will reduce the chances of water.
>>>Barry
>>>On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Joe and Joan
>>>Kimbell <<mailto:jnjkimbell@hotmail.com>jnjkimbell@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>Appreciate some info concerning fuel
>>>seperation. I have CH701 with the 100hp
>>>riotax. I live in a high humedity area and
>>>have not been flying much lately. I use
>>>10% ethanol fuel and last time I started to
>>>fly (fuel had been in A/C over a month) and
>>>checked the lowest drain, I found cloudy fuel,
>>>not water, but did not lood good. I continued
>>>to drain fuel until it was clear, probably a
>>>half an ounce. Was this cloudy fuel on the
>>>point of seperation? I did go ahead and fly
>>>with no problems, but after thinking about it,
>>>what would the list's ideas be. Very glad it
>>>kept running, though an both tanks the fuel
>>>seemed to come out of only one tank. No external fuel pump. Gravity feed.
>>>
>>>=========
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>ist"
>>>target="_blank"><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>
>>>tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>
>>>_blank"><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>
>>><http://forums.matronics.com>http://forums.matronics.com
>>>
>>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>href="<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List"><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>
>>
>>href="<http://forums.matronics.com>http://forums.matronics.com"><http://forums.matronics.com>http://forums.matronics.com
>>
>>
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>>
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>>==================================
>>st"><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Low Oil Pressure |
Thanks to all that replied to my low oil pressure issue. I have ordered
a new sender and will see if that makes a difference.
Dan Wilde
>>
>
>
Message 14
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The amount of drop in RON depends partially on the concentration of ethanol
in the fuel. For instance if ethanol is washed out of 10% 91 Ron gas then
the result be a lesser drop than having the eth washed out of E-15 91RON
gas.
Funny thing is water in ethanol makes a corrosive liquid. Water in gas is
just water. The thing ot do is simply let it settle out before you siphon
off the gas. A better idea may be to try buying your gas at a marina.
Several marinas now sell no ethanol contaminated fuel because of problems in
boats.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: May 25, 2011 4:43 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: ethanol
If you use washed 91 oct it will be 87 when your done. If you have a 912ULS
(100 hp) that won't work. If you start with 87 oct it isn't fit for either
912. You will eventually end up replacing the carb bowls at $100 a piece
because the very small amount of moisture still in the fuel will pit the
aluminum bowl. I have had to replace a few of these already for the long
term hard core washers.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340993#340993
Message 15
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It should be simple to calculate the octane drop by removing the ethanol.
All you have to know is pure ethanol is 116 RON. 90%@X RON + 10% @ 116
91 RON The difference on the final RON and the Ethanol is 26 RON caused by
10 % of the quantity or 2.6 RON therefore a gestimation is wash your 91
octane and you will have 88.4 RON. Problem is if you have 15% ethanol in 91
RON gas then the drop will be larger...however if you only have 5% ethanol
in the mix then the drop in RON will only be half.
High octane premium fuel is supposed to be closer to 97 RON @ 10% ethanol
the drop by washing that fuel should be around 95 RON
Any mathematicians out there want to go over the figures for me. I don't
pretend to be an expert on math... I don't get paid enough!
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: May 25, 2011 7:58 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: ethanol
Hi Roger:
How did you get the octane rating of 87 after washing 91?
Alcohol does add a small amount of octane but I really doubt if it is 4
points.
Do you know anyone that can run octane tests?
I have a couple of tests I want to get done.
As for the pitting of the fuel bowl... That is an easy cure. Send it out
and get it Hard Coat Anodized to a thickness of 0.0025". It should cost
about $20 to $50 tops. When talking to the plating house you - should -
know what kind of aluminum it is made from. OR at least if it is cast or
machined from a billet. Also be nice to the house and ask if they could
just run it with a bigger batch - NO SPECIAL HANDLING REQUIRED. This keeps
price down.
Barry
On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1@yahoo.com> wrote:
If you use washed 91 oct it will be 87 when your done. If you have a 912ULS
(100 hp) that won't work. If you start with 87 oct it isn't fit for either
912. You will eventually end up replacing the carb bowls at $100 a piece
because the very small amount of moisture still in the fuel will pit the
aluminum bowl. I have had to replace a few of these already for the long
term hard core washers.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=340993#340993
==========
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Message 16
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Barry add to that mess the fact if you want to make a gallon of ethanol
commercially you better start with considerably more than a gallon of
Diesel. That's to seed the field, spray insecticides etc., harvest and
separate the corn, transport the corn, ferment the corn, distil the mash and
then transport the ethanol to gas stations because it cannot be shipped any
other way. Now you still have to dispose of the grouts. Some farmers feed
them to their animals... They should be shot at dawn for abusing their
animals in this way.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: May 25, 2011 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
You are correct Pete:
The HP went down about 10%.
And you probably see a 10% reduction in fuel economy.
So now you burn 10% more fuel for the same time or distance.
SOooooo if you are burning 10% more fuel and there is a 10% reduction in
hydrocarbons how the hell is there a reduction in pollution?
Ask the congress and the EPA to explain that! It must be the NEW MATH!
Barry
On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 1:33 PM, Pete Christensen
<pchristensen10@austin.rr.com> wrote:
I know for sure my car mileage went down when they started pumping gasohol.
Pete
On 5/25/2011 11:25 AM, Rick Thomason wrote:
Who said they were "trouble free"?
On May 25, 2011, at 10:31 AM, "ray atkinson" <raybot@comcast.net> wrote:
How in the world do millions of cars run trillions of miles trouble free on
this stuff??
----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Christensen <mailto:pchristensen10@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 7:37 AM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
What I have found in washing the alcohol from my gasoline is that a small
amount of settling occurs in the tank while the plane is sitting. I drain
my gascolator before and after each flight. The gascolator bowl has started
to rust and I plan to clean it up and coat the bowl with Kreem. I
discontinued using washed gas over the winter since my plane sat more. I
may try washing my gas twice to see if this stops the settlement.
Pete
On 2/7/2011 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
If you really, really have to fly on ethanol fuel then you have already
broken the first cardinal rule. Never leave fuel in your plane for an
extended period of time. If you have high humidity, as you said, it will
absorb some of the moisture and when that happens it, not only gets closer
to a phase separation but becomes very corrosive.... It may eat your tanks
if they are anything but stainless steel. It will probably start to eat
your fuel system including the carb body and the fuel lines. Best not to
leave it in the plane and only fly on fresh fuel. BTW you will know when
you have a phase separation happening... you will get something just over
10% of the quantity of fuel in your tank showing up as water. So if you
have left say 15 gal of fuel in your plane then if it separates you will get
1.5 gallons of water/ethanol solution (mostly water) hitting your carb or
injectors. A little good news is if you are using a paper filter it will
try to block the water from passing... unfortunately there won't be
anything else but water to pass. The milky substance you did find is
probably something the ethanol started to eat.
The second point is as Barry mentioned remove the ethanol form your fuel by
adding enough water to cause a phase separation. Then siphon the clear
ethanol free gas off the top of the water ethanol solution that will form on
the bottom of the container. Be careful though, to let the gas sit for
about twenty minutes so all the water can settle out before siphoning the
gas. And always use a good chamois or felt to strain your gas... either of
those products will pass gas but not water. If you remove the ethanol from
your fuel then it won't hurt to leave the gas in your plane between flights
for periods of up to I guess a month or so.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: February 7, 2011 2:29 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
Joe:
There are a few things that would cause your fuel to go cloudy:
Contamination in the tank.
Hygroscopic action of the alcohol
Temperature (low) causing the water to freeze
Being that you found only 1/2 ounce I would also consider:
The drain plugs as being contaminated due to oxidation
How clean was the inspection tube that you were using
When you say 'separation', are you referring to the water separating out
from the fuel due to saturation? If yes, then YES you could be seeing the
water above what the alcohol would hold in suspension.
A 1/2 ounce... I would not worry about. But why use gas with ethanol - Do
the separation procedure that has been discussed here on line and you will
reduce the chances of water.
Barry
On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Joe and Joan Kimbell
<jnjkimbell@hotmail.com> wrote:
Appreciate some info concerning fuel seperation. I have CH701 with the
100hp riotax. I live in a high humedity area and have not been flying much
lately. I use 10% ethanol fuel and last time I started to fly (fuel had
been in A/C over a month) and checked the lowest drain, I found cloudy fuel,
not water, but did not lood good. I continued to drain fuel until it was
clear, probably a half an ounce. Was this cloudy fuel on the point of
seperation? I did go ahead and fly with no problems, but after thinking
about it, what would the list's ideas be. Very glad it kept running, though
an both tanks the fuel seemed to come out of only one tank. No external
fuel pump. Gravity feed.
=========
>
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In my mind the reason we don't have a good alternative to ethanol laced fuel is
political. If we let the powers to be know we are dissatisfied with the status
of fuel something will be done about it. They are the ones who are in fact
p[aid to listen to our concerns. So why not tell them? There are serious issues
about fuelling anything on this continent with ethanol. Those issues are
multiplied when using the fuel for flight therefore should be addressed the sooner
the better.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Thomason
Sent: May 25, 2011 9:09 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
I said "half a tank" so the ethanol can suck all the water out of the air. I just
switched over to 100LL. Better to spew lead into the air than kill myself over
a water droplet or dissolved fiberglass.
On May 25, 2011, at 1:56 PM, paul wilson <pwmac@sisna.com> wrote:
>
> BS
> I leave two cars for 6 months each year unused full of gas and have never seen
any negative things. The cars work just fine.
> True - Cars and planes are like apples and oranges. Cars are designed for toxic
and corrosive fuel and your homebuilt or certified planes are not.
> Paul
> =====
> At 10:24 AM 5/25/2011, Rick Thomason wrote:
>> Because they don't have fiberglass fuel tanks!
>>
>> Leave a half tank of gasohol in your car for 2 months and then see how well
it runs.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On May 25, 2011, at 10:31 AM, "ray atkinson" <<mailto:raybot@comcast.net>raybot@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> How in the world do millions of cars run trillions of miles trouble free on
this stuff??
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <mailto:pchristensen10@austin.rr.com>Pete Christensen
>>> To: <mailto:rotaxengines-list@matronics.com>rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
>>> Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 7:37 AM
>>> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
>>> What I have found in washing the alcohol from my gasoline is that a small amount
of settling occurs in the tank while the plane is sitting. I drain my gascolator
before and after each flight. The gascolator bowl has started to rust
and I plan to clean it up and coat the bowl with Kreem. I discontinued using
washed gas over the winter since my plane sat more. I may try washing my gas
twice to see if this stops the settlement.
>>> Pete
>>>
>>> On 2/7/2011 8:23 PM, Noel Loveys wrote:
>>>> If you really, really have to fly on ethanol fuel then you have already broken
the first cardinal rule. Never leave fuel in your plane for an extended
period of time. If you have high humidity, as you said, it will absorb some
of the moisture and when that happens it, not only gets closer to a phase separation
but becomes very corrosive.... It may eat your tanks if they are anything
but stainless steel. It will probably start to eat your fuel system including
the carb body and the fuel lines. Best not to leave it in the plane and
only fly on fresh fuel. BTW you will know when you have a phase separation happening...
you will get something just over 10% of the quantity of fuel in your
tank showing up as water. So if you have left say 15 gal of fuel in your plane
then if it separates you will get 1.5 gallons of water/ethanol solution (mostly
water) hitting your carb or injectors. A little good news is if you are
using a paper filter it will try to block the wate!
r from passing... unfortunately there wont be anything else but water to pass.
The milky substance you did find is probably something the ethanol started
to eat.
>>>> The second point is as Barry mentioned remove the ethanol form your fuel by
adding enough water to cause a phase separation. Then siphon the clear ethanol
free gas off the top of the water ethanol solution that will form on the bottom
of the container. Be careful though, to let the gas sit for about twenty
minutes so all the water can settle out before siphoning the gas. And always
use a good chamois or felt to strain your gas... either of those products will
pass gas but not water. If you remove the ethanol from your fuel then it
wont hurt to leave the gas in your plane between flights for periods of up to
I guess a month or so.
>>>> Noel
>>>> From: <mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com>owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
>>>> Sent: February 7, 2011 2:29 PM
>>>> To: <mailto:rotaxengines-list@matronics.com>rotaxengines-list@matronics.com
>>>> Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: ethanol
>>>> Joe:
>>>> There are a few things that would cause your fuel to go cloudy:
>>>> Contamination in the tank.
>>>> Hygroscopic action of the alcohol
>>>> Temperature (low) causing the water to freeze
>>>> Being that you found only 1/2 ounce I would also consider:
>>>> The drain plugs as being contaminated due to oxidation
>>>> How clean was the inspection tube that you were using
>>>> When you say 'separation', are you referring to the water separating out from
the fuel due to saturation? If yes, then YES you could be seeing the water
above what the alcohol would hold in suspension.
>>>> A 1/2 ounce... I would not worry about. But why use gas with ethanol - Do
the separation procedure that has been discussed here on line and you will reduce
the chances of water.
>>>> Barry
>>>> On Mon, Feb 7, 2011 at 10:10 AM, Joe and Joan Kimbell <<mailto:jnjkimbell@hotmail.com>jnjkimbell@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Appreciate some info concerning fuel seperation. I have CH701 with the 100hp
riotax. I live in a high humedity area and have not been flying much lately.
I use 10% ethanol fuel and last time I started to fly (fuel had been in
A/C over a month) and checked the lowest drain, I found cloudy fuel, not water,
but did not lood good. I continued to drain fuel until it was clear, probably
a half an ounce. Was this cloudy fuel on the point of seperation? I did go
ahead and fly with no problems, but after thinking about it, what would the list's
ideas be. Very glad it kept running, though an both tanks the fuel seemed
to come out of only one tank. No external fuel pump. Gravity feed.
>>>>
>>>> =========
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ist" target="_blank"><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>>>
>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>
>>>> _blank"><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
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>>>>
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Message 18
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Problem Roger is there are more concerns than just the tanks slowly
disintegrating. There is the reduction of power, the reduction of range and
god knows what ethanol does to the evaporation rate and let's not forget
phase separation as the fuel cools in airborne tanks. These are serious
issues that flying on 100 LL will not address. Now if somebody came out
with a viable process to remove the lead from 100 LL that may be worth
looking into. The only process i can think of is electro reduction. It may
not work and I don't want to be the fellow to try it!
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roger Lee
Sent: May 25, 2011 10:10 PM
Subject: RotaxEngines-List: Re: ethanol
I have seen two test reports from the companies that make these fuel washing
systems. They both showed me reports starting with 91 and came out with 87.
No matter what the octane (88.7 or 87) it's too low for the 912ULS and it
still causes corrosion in either engine. The ethanol is not an issue at all
for the Rotax 912 series engine. You just need to make sure you use the
proper fuel hoses and know what your fuel tank is made out of. I have seen
several people take their tanks and slosh them with Kreem Weiss and just use
the ethanol since it is impervious to the ethanol. The fuel storage issue in
hangars is a fire code issue and airports don't normally buck that system as
it would leave them liable.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341050#341050
Message 19
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Even sober sailors want to avoid the SP lol
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: May 25, 2011 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: ethanol
On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 9:00 PM, dave <dave@cfisher.com> wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReguEsLfKcI
This guy runs a test like a drunk sailor runs from the SP.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikyc0xOAjbw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnQLfJrFc_c
some fun with ethanol and water after testing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJZOY8z_9Tk
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
http://www.kitfoxflyer.com/
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/user/kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341052#341=====================
== <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341052#341052>
, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
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Message 20
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I agree with you that his procedure needs work but it is close enough to
demonstrate that most of the gas in his area, Southern Ontario, is in fact
not 10% ethanol at all. No wonder he has no problem with it.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: May 25, 2011 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Re: ethanol
On Wed, May 25, 2011 at 9:00 PM, dave <dave@cfisher.com> wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReguEsLfKcI
This guy runs a test like a drunk sailor runs from the SP.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikyc0xOAjbw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnQLfJrFc_c
some fun with ethanol and water after testing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJZOY8z_9Tk
--------
Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
http://www.cfisher.com/
http://www.kitfoxflyer.com/
http://rotaxaircraft.com/forum/
Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the truth
http://www.youtube.com/user/kitfoxflyer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341052#341=====================
== <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341052#341052>
, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List"
target="_blank"========
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====
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Message 21
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| Subject: | New Rotax Owners Website engine forum |
Hi All,
here is the new Rotax Owners website engine forum. It's brand new.
http://www.rotax-owner.com/forum/index/5-rotax-ownercom-forum
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=341253#341253
Message 22
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| Subject: | Low Oil Pressure |
Hi! Dan
Sorry I've not been following the thread so may be duplicating the advice but whilst
you are fitting the new pressure sender mount it on the firewall forward
and run high pressure pipe to it from the front of the engine. I just did that
along with the mushroom type pressure regulator and the pressure read out never
varies but factual and steady.
Best regards
Bob Harrison Europa G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Wilde
Sent: 28 May 2011 00:05
Subject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Low Oil Pressure
Thanks to all that replied to my low oil pressure issue. I have ordered
a new sender and will see if that makes a difference.
Dan Wilde
>>
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