Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:11 AM - Re: spark plug adhesive (Alan Carter)
2. 04:12 AM - Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change (Thom Riddle)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change (Catz631@aol.com)
4. 08:03 AM - Re: spark plug adhesive (Roger Lee)
5. 08:48 AM - Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change (Roger Lee)
6. 10:31 AM - Re: Re: spark plug adhesive (Richard Girard)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: spark plug adhesive |
Hello All.
Oh Boy, this is all good stuff and very interesting comments and is nice to have
all participating in the topic i have learned a lot about Heat sink and anti
seize ,
My own thoughts on the matter are, if you have used either product i don,t think
any harm will be done, and as some one said, better cooling of the whole cylinder
head is the best, but if you have trouble in getting the plugs out stick
a bit of anti seize on then,
Why do the Rotax Plugs for the 914 cost 10 and the 912 3
and you can get them for 2.20 on the net. ???
Its the same Make same Number, and when you phone up Denso
they only produce this plug globally .
I am happy to accept rip off, but is there something i should know.
Alan
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change |
Alan,
A few comments:
Change the oil filter while the tank is empty, not after you refill the tank.
Trying to fill the filter with oil will result in a mess when you turn it to screw
it on. Don't bother.
Coat the gasket on the new oil filter with a thin film of oil (with your finger)
so it doesn't bunch up when tightening past point of contact.
The magnetic plug is on the side of the gearbox. The oil tank drain plug is not
magnetic. Check the gearbox magnetic plug while the tank is empty. IMPORTANT:
Unless your engine has the newer external hex head style magnetic plug, the
old internal 6 point style is NOT an allen type. It is a TORX type requiring
a TORX tool to remove. If a previous "mechanic" used an allen type tool it is
likely stripped beyond repair. In this case removal requires use of a screw extractor.
The old style magnetic plug should be replaced with the newer hex head
style for future ease of mag plug checking.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x32
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change |
Alan,
I would suggest you safety the oil filter to prevent it from loosening in
flight. I had a filter almost spin off on me. I tightened it properly
prior to this event. There are a couple of posts on this forum about guys
losing their engines because of this happening.
I drilled a small hole in a case flange below the filter then used a very
large hose clamp with Adel clamp rubber over the clamping strap (a bit
confusing to describe)
Anyway the clamp is tightened at the base of the filter and safety wired
to the case.
Dick
Maddux
Milton,Fl
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| Subject: | Re: spark plug adhesive |
Hi Alan,
You can use NGK DP9EA-9 plugs for the 914 and they are only about $3 each.
http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1365
The difference between the 2 stroke and 4 stroke torque and installation differences
is the head material and service type.
2 stroke plugs are torqued dry and in a cold head.
Anti seize is not recommended for the Rotax. To me anti seize is old school when
nothing else was around back then to help prevent galling or seizure.
Now days there are better alternatives. Many GA aircraft owners at my field have
tossed the anti seize and are using the silicone based heat transfer compound.
It does the same as anti seize as far as a thread lube and prevents seizure,
but it does one thing better than anti seize in that it transfers heat better.
If anti seize worked as well then they might have used it on circuit boards
too. All heat transfer paste really does is help fill in microscopic spaces within
the thread structure and help temps sync a little easier between plug thread
and cyl head. It's not a huge importance, but it's part of the Rotax maint.
routine.
Will the 912 or 914 run with dry plugs or with anti seize, sure they will, but
the heat transfer paste makes it a little better. With more than 20+ years of
912 business and tens of millions of dollars in research, 85% of the small aircraft
market using Rotax engines and millions of flight hours and I think Rotax
has a fair handle on what seems to give that particular engine an edge and are
there some US alternatives to European products to use, yes, but knowing which
ones are important at times.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382595#382595
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Oil Change |
Hi Alan,
Where do you live?
Seems from your oil change list you have a pretty good handle on the oil change.
I see that Skydrive semi synthetic oil is on the Rotax oil list. You must live
out of the US because I have never heard of it. If I were you I would pick
the Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 over this oil as the Aero Shell was made for the Rotax
and the Skydrive is an after thought and a substitute where suitable oils
may not be available around the world. You need to now start thinking of the
Rotax like a motorcycle engine and not an aircraft one and you will have a better
understanding of the 912 Rotax.
Use any good semi synthetic or full synthetic motorcycle oil. That said if you
use 100LL it has to be a semi synthetic oil. A full synthetic will not suspend
the lead and it will fall out in the crankcase and gearbox and everywhere else
you don't want it. If you can stay away from 100LL. Use the full synthetic with
unleaded auto fuel. Never rotate a prop once you drain the tank or have the
filter off. Don't forget the magnetic plug every oil change. It is either a
#40 Torx or a 16mm hex head.
Here are few a few oils to choose from:
Full synth;
Amsoil 10-40W motorcycle oil
Mobile One Racing 4T 10-40w motorcycle oil
Semi synth;
Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 (very common and made with the 912 in mind)
Golden Spectro 4
Honda GN4
The new Rotax oil filters now have a check valve in them which prevents pre-filling
and it will go on dry. Do as you said and rotate the prop 20 times to help
fill. The oil filter can come off before or after oil is put back into the reservoir
because the filter has oil in it no matter what. Change it though before
rotating the prop. As far as filters coming unscrewed. Several of the filters
in the past that have come unscrewed were not a Rotax for one and some were
of the old style. There have been at least three Rotax filter changes over the
years. If you put the filter on as prescribed you won't have an issue. If it
was a problem with the hundreds of thousands of 912's world wide Rotax would
have you safety wire. I have never seen a Rotax filter come off by itself if
properly applied. Screw it on until it makes a soft contact, then thread it on
another 270 degrees or 3/4 turn. I usually need an oil wrench to get that last
little tweak in the 3/4 turn and can't remove it by hand without the oil wrench
if it's on tight enough. If you can grab the filter by hand and easily unscrew
it you haven't put it on properly. I usually need oil filter pliers to remove
it. Do not get in the habit of using pliers on the canister or anything
else as I have seen a few times where the canister gets crushed, pin holes and
cracks. There is a solid metal ring at the base of the filter that you can use
your oil pliers if you use them. Many can't use the oil wrench that fits over
the end of the filter because of the exhaust is in the way.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382605#382605
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: spark plug adhesive |
Well, just for the sake of it. The insulator in a spark plug runs at 1000
to 1300 degrees. Too cold and the plug can't burn off the carbon and
combustion residue, too hot and you risk detonation and destroying your
engine.
Having the spark plug torqued into the cylinder head is essential for the
cooling path of the plug. Read the article in Sport Aviation about the
Cirrus owner who got his airplane back from annual with a plug severely
under torqued. Cylinder head temperature, as recorded by the aircraft's
engine information system peaked at almost 700 degrees. In less than five
minutes the piston was holed and the owner had an emergency on his hands.
Rick Girard
On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 7:43 PM, Gilles Thesee
<Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>wrote:
> FLYaDIVE a =E9crit :
>
>
>> And if heat sink was so important, why doesn't the two cycle engine use
>> ANYTHING on the spark plugs? Which engine produces more heat, four cycl
e
>> or two cycle?
>> A: [Two cycle]
>>
>> And if this 'advertised' heat sink compound did anything why isn't the
>> heat range changed on the spark plug?
>>
>
> Barry and all,
>
> Good point.
> This strange recommendation from Rotax is not supported by simple physics
:
> Only 20/30% of spark plug total heat rejection is by way of the thread, s
o
> even if a little paste did improve heat transfer by say, 20 %, the plug
> heat rejection would improve only by 5 to 6 %...
>
> What DOES work on the other hand, is providing adequate head cooling : a
> properly cooled head is the best heat sink one may dream of to have coole
r
> plugs.
>
> BTW, what is proposed as heat sink compound by a well known European
> importer, is actually *copper antiseize* and yet no adverse effect on the
> thousands of engines flying in this area.
> So real heat sink might not be so necessary after all...
>
> Best regards,
> --
> Gilles
> http://contrails.free.fr
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
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