Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:20 AM - Re: Re: 912 UL vibration (Richard Girard)
2. 03:13 PM - Radiator cleaning (Gtblu)
3. 04:52 PM - Re: Radiator cleaning (Roger Lee)
4. 05:01 PM - Re: Radiator cleaning (FLYaDIVE)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 912 UL vibration |
Barry, Yep, the paint on the tips is just for static balance, but I can get
to .1 gram and it does seem to help. How much is my experiment. I shoot a
little heavy so as the volatiles flash off the prop moves toward balance.
Not perfect, but cheap and keeps the prop in good shape.
My testing of the Balance Masters concept was on my Shovelhead Harley. I
have them on both the crank and the clutch basket. It takes a little while
to settle in once I'm up to road speed, but I can feel the vibration go
away and I really notice the difference after a long haul. Since the engine
is bolted directly to the frame it is much more noticeable than on either
my airplane of trike, but they do seem to work there, too.
Rick
On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 11:13 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> Rick:
>
> Painting the prop will work for STATIC balancing of the prop. But, what
> happens when the heavy point is at a rotational degree location tat is out
> in space. NO PHYSICAL location to add or remove weight? Not all the
> balancing is of the prop. Things like Engine, Spinner and Mounts
> contribute to vibration. AND how much paint is required? What happens
> when the paint is worn off? Slow changes in vibration is
> not noticeable over long periods of time... The body just gets use to it.
> The plane and insturments on the other had react to it - Shortened life.
> The idea of oil on the prop causing imbalance is very possible but also
> very arguable. Since the prop is spinning wouldn't there be an equal
> amount of oil spray on each blade? Who know, who cares... Just wipe the
> prop down after each landing.
>
> Balance Masters - This is another one of those theories/myths that has not
> been truly proven or disproven. I did a little balancing experiment at
> work with the same idea of a movable mass (mercury) and found it did NOT
> always balance out, it was 2 time yes, 15 times no. And my testing was
> Mercury Vs Accelerometer. Way too many variables to get repeated results.
> The better way of doing a moving weight balance system is a Washing
> Machine. Check it out - Pretty cool ideas there.
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 11:31 AM, Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Roger, Barry, While adding a washer will certainly work why not paint the
>> prop tips and add more paint on the light blade? For a pusher, especially
>> one on a two stroke powered aircraft you will get a fair amount of oil and
>> dirt that sticks to the blades and affects the balance. Part of my yearly
>> maintenance is to clean and repaint the prop, test the balance, and use the
>> tip paint to get the prop to Rotax specs for a new prop, less than half a
>> gram of imbalance.
>> I also recommend Balance Masters prop dynamic prop balancers. They are
>> very light and really do the job of getting rid of that last little bit and
>> countering for bug and oil buildup during flight.
>>
>> Rick Girard
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 13, 2012 at 9:43 AM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> ssadiver1@yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Hi Barry,
>>>
>>> Unfortunately there are many different prop mounts that people use on
>>> their planes. Some have backing plates and spinners, prop hub extensions,
>>> ext...
>>> If they don't have a backing plate then you may be stuck with putting a
>>> large washer on one of the prop mounting bolts. If you do that it could
>>> take a little more weight because it is closer to the center of mass. Or
>>> you could get him to put a backing plate and spinner on his plane and would
>>> benefit from better air flow and the balance. With the backing plate you
>>> can then move the weight out farther from the center.
>>> Just so many of you know as a tidbit fact. It is more important and
>>> affects the flow of air to have a spinner on a pusher over a tractor prop.
>>> The air flow is affected more and in a positive way.
>>> Which is funny because we seem to always put spinners on tractor props.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Roger Lee
>>> Tucson, Az.
>>> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
>>> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
>>> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
>>> Cell 520-349-7056
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385246#385246
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> -List" target="_blank">
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Zulu Delta
>> Mk IIIC
>> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>>
>> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be
>> unhappy.
>> - Groucho Marx
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 2
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| Subject: | Radiator cleaning |
Hi All,
I'm after some tips on how we clean oil cooler/ radiator fins of accumulated gunge
ie fine coating of oil from oil change drips mixed with dust. Even though
cooling is the least of my worries with these radiators, I would like them to
be clean. If anything they struggle to reach a satisfactory working temperature
despite being taped up over winter.
Thanks
Geoff Bell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385510#385510
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Radiator cleaning |
Hi Geoff,
Flush the fins with either a water based or a regular solvent. Then flush well
with water to make sure here isn't any residual. Then I personally blow it out
to help dry it and remove any residual with air pressure.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385517#385517
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Radiator cleaning |
Geoff:
Use any product that would cut oil. It is all dependent on ease of access
to all sides of the cooler and if can you remove any drippings.
As I was writing this I had an idea... I just deleted all that I wrote here
is the Simple, Quick and Inexpensive idea... Get a can of Spray Engine
Cleaner at any automotive store. Most require a warm engine - Then Spray
the cleaner on - Then wait a few minutes - Then wash it off with a garden
hose <-- High pressure helps.
Let it dry thoroughly - Air Hose will help. And you are done.
Barry
On Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 6:12 PM, Gtblu <gtbjbell@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm after some tips on how we clean oil cooler/ radiator fins of
> accumulated gunge ie fine coating of oil from oil change drips mixed with
> dust. Even though cooling is the least of my worries with these radiators,
> I would like them to be clean. If anything they struggle to reach a
> satisfactory working temperature despite being taped up over winter.
>
> Thanks
> Geoff Bell
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385510#385510
>
>
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