Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:08 AM - =?utf-8?Q?Re:__oil_change_question? ()
2. 02:57 AM - Bing 54 (william sullivan)
3. 07:35 AM - Re: oil change question (Roger Lee)
4. 08:56 AM - 912 run on (egp8111)
5. 11:46 AM - Re: 912 run on (Nati Niv)
6. 12:29 PM - Re: 912 run on (FLYaDIVE)
7. 12:46 PM - Re: oil change question (FLYaDIVE)
8. 12:49 PM - Re: oil change question (FLYaDIVE)
9. 06:14 PM - Re: 912 run on (Roger Lee)
10. 06:58 PM - Re: oil change question (krazydoc33)
11. 07:29 PM - Re: Bing 54 (Richard Girard)
12. 08:16 PM - Re: Bing 54 (william sullivan)
13. 08:18 PM - Re: Bing 54 (John Hauck)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re:_RotaxEngines-List:_oil_change_question? |
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Message 2
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- It's been a while since I looked in my Bing 54, so I have to ask.- Wh
at is the proper installation of the sieve sleeve in the carb bowl?- Bott
om of the jet, or slid all the way up?=0A=0A----------
-------------------------
-------------------------
---------------- Bill Sullivan=0A---
-------------------------
-------------------------
----------------------- Winds
or Locks, Ct.=0A-------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
-------- Kolb Firestar, 447=0A
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
Oil change should be simple. Rotate the prop before you drain oil or remove the
filter and never again until the oil is back in the tank and the filter installed.
3 qts. of oil. If you introduce too much air into the system then you will
need to do a full Rotax oil purge. There is no need to go there. If you are
using Aero Shell Sport Plus 4 then they are liters and just use all 3 liters.
This should put you at the top of the dip stick. You can not pre-fill the new
Rotax oil filters because of the check valve in the filter. Leave the plugs in
place and rotate the prop 20 times +/- it doesn't need to be exact. You must
leave the plugs in place because the only way for oil to get back to the oil
tank is by crankcase pressure. If you remove the plugs you lose that. Then start
the engine and the pressure is usually there within a 1-3 seconds because
the system still has oil in it. I would not personally turn the engine over with
the ignition off. First it isn't necessary and if done wrong under certain
conditions can cause damage.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to call.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421699#421699
Message 4
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I was syncing the carbs on my 912ul and tried to shut the engine down but turning
off the ignition switches did absolutely nothing. I cycled them several time
but the engine kept running. I finally shut off the fuel and waited for
it to quit. I checked the grounding on the switches and everything was in order.
The funny thing is the switches had been working fine before and have been
since this occasion. The Rotax manual says this is possible if the engine
is shut down hot but in this case the motor was barely warm.. Anyone have any
ideas ?
Thanks
EG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421706#421706
Message 5
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Hi
It is not possible for the engine to keep on running if the ignition
switches are in the off position, and you said that you checked continuity
to ground, correct?
It is very possible that as part of the carb sync you messed up with the
aluminum tube that connects the two carbs together, this tube is located
very close to the electronic ignition modules and it is possible that while
messing with it, you actually broke the "kill" wires leading from the
ignition switches in the cockpit to the electronic modules, I would suggest
checking continuity to ground starting right on the kill connection at the
module location itself.
Nati
RANS 6 912ULS, Illinois
On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 10:56 AM, egp8111 <egp8111@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I was syncing the carbs on my 912ul and tried to shut the engine down but
> turning off the ignition switches did absolutely nothing. I cycled them
> several time but the engine kept running. I finally shut off the fuel and
> waited for it to quit. I checked the grounding on the switches and
> everything was in order. The funny thing is the switches had been working
> fine before and have been since this occasion. The Rotax manual says this
> is possible if the engine is shut down hot but in this case the motor was
> barely warm.. Anyone have any ideas ?
> Thanks
> EG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421706#421706
>
>
Message 6
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EG:
Did the engine run smooth after you shut off the ignition switches? If so
then check the grounding of your switches again. Check further down the
wiring not just at the switch to ground.
If the engine ran rough then you could have a HOT SPOT in one or more
cylinders. A hot spot can cause run-on, dieseling, and pre-ignition. If
this is the case check the plugs first, then the area inside the cylinders
where the plugs screw into. You are LQQKing small hang-nails of metal.
These will heat up, hold the temps and fire-off a fuel air mixture.
Barry
On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 11:56 AM, egp8111 <egp8111@aol.com> wrote:
>
> I was syncing the carbs on my 912ul and tried to shut the engine down but
> turning off the ignition switches did absolutely nothing. I cycled them
> several time but the engine kept running. I finally shut off the fuel and
> waited for it to quit. I checked the grounding on the switches and
> everything was in order. The funny thing is the switches had been working
> fine before and have been since this occasion. The Rotax manual says this
> is possible if the engine is shut down hot but in this case the motor was
> barely warm.. Anyone have any ideas ?
> Thanks
> EG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421706#421706
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
You bought a RatTax
On Sun, Apr 6, 2014 at 12:28 PM, krazydoc33 <galaxyone@juno.com> wrote:
>
> I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change
> it at 20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after
> burping the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back in
> the tank, which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil
> level is above the dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20
> revolutions and ran the starter for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil
> pressure and level did not go down. Pressurized the tank, via the oil blow
> by line, to about 7-8 # with no change. This did not happen when I first
> filled the tank with oil. What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to start and
> check the oil pressure within 30 seconds?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
Sorry Doc,
But this is the biggest failure on Rotax's part, they did not eliminating a
ridiculous problem. All these engines and all these years and all they
could do is offer a complicated solution. Would deal with a car that had
this issue?
Barry
On Sun, Apr 6, 2014 at 12:28 PM, krazydoc33 <galaxyone@juno.com> wrote:
>
> I just changed the oil at 19 hours from first start. I was going to change
> it at 20 hours but had the cowl off so went ahead. Drained the tank after
> burping the engine and replaced the filter. After putting 3.25 qts. back in
> the tank, which is just a little less than what I drained out, the oil
> level is above the dipstick hole. Pulled the prop. through 15-20
> revolutions and ran the starter for 6-7 seconds, ignition off, no oil
> pressure and level did not go down. Pressurized the tank, via the oil blow
> by line, to about 7-8 # with no change. This did not happen when I first
> filled the tank with oil. What am I doing wrong? Is it safe to start and
> check the oil pressure within 30 seconds?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421612#421612
>
>
Message 9
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I would look at grounding at the ignition switch and up at the ignition modules
on the 6 pin connectors. White wire in the corner.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421750#421750
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: oil change question |
Hi Jim, The panel is a Dynon skyView, when the master is on so are all the senders.
As others have suggested the oil pump needed to be primed. I think what happened
is that I left the oil filter off overnight to let it drain down and it
also drained the oil pump down too. I purged the system per the Rotax manual
and all is now well. I did remove all the top plugs to be able to spin the engine
over easier. This engine has always run with a black sooty exhaust pipe.
The front two plugs have a black sooty deposit on them but the two rear plugs
look fine, a light brown color. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Henry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421752#421752
Message 11
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William, The screen should sit in the well cast into the float bowl as a
final coarse filter to keep crap out of the main jet.
Rick Girard
do not archive
On Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 4:53 AM, william sullivan
<williamtsullivan@att.net>wrote:
> It's been a while since I looked in my Bing 54, so I have to ask. What
> is the proper installation of the sieve sleeve in the carb bowl? Bottom of
> the jet, or slid all the way up?
>
>
> Bill Sullivan
>
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
>
> Kolb Firestar, 447
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
Message 12
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- Thanks.- I'll check tomorrow.- It didn't look right.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0A From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng@gmail.c
om>=0ATo: rotaxengines-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Monday, April 7, 2014 10
:29 PM=0ASubject: Re: RotaxEngines-List: Bing 54=0A =0A=0A=0AWilliam, The s
creen should sit in the well cast into the float bowl as a final coarse fil
ter to keep crap out of the main jet.=0A=0ARick Girard=0Ado not archive=0A
=0A=0A=0AOn Mon, Apr 7, 2014 at 4:53 AM, william sullivan <williamtsullivan
@att.net> wrote:=0A=0A- It's been a while since I looked in my Bing 54, s
o I have to ask.- What is the proper installation of the sieve sleeve in
the carb bowl?- Bottom of the jet, or slid all the way up?=0A>=0A>=0A>-
-------------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
Bill Sullivan=0A>-------------------
-------------------------
-------------------------
------- Windsor Locks, Ct.=0A>----------
-------------------------
-------------------------
----------------- Kolb Firestar, 447=0A>
=0A>ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RotaxEngines-
List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contrib
ution =0A=0A=0A-- =0A=0AZulu Delta=0AMk IIIC=0AThanks, Homer GBYM=0A=0AIt i
sn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.=0A
- - Groucho Marx
Message 13
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Rick, I was under the impression the main jet well screen was an air dam to
prevent air bubbles from entering the main jet well that could lean out the
mixture.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
William, The screen should sit in the well cast into the float bowl as a
final coarse filter to keep crap out of the main jet.
Rick Girard
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