Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:51 AM - Re: Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above (MacDonald Doug)
2. 06:10 AM - Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above (Roger Lee)
3. 10:57 AM - Re: Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above (Ollie Washburn)
4. 08:39 PM - Vacuum gauge carb synch setup (Richard Girard)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above |
All applicable kudos to Roger if he does decide to produce a gauge set for
syncing 912/914 carbs but it would be a redundant product.- Lockwood sell
s a very nice analog gauge set with applicable hoses, valves, and fittings
for about $90.00.- I purchased one about five years ago and have used it
several times.=0A=0Ahttp://www.lockwood.aero/p-2586-carb-synchronization-ki
t-for-rotax-912914.aspx=0A=0ADoug M=0A=0A=0ATime: 05:55:37 PM PST US=0ASubj
ect: RotaxEngines-List: Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above=0AFrom: "Jo
hnF" <n29cx@ridgeviewtel.us>=0A=0A=0ARoger, why don't you out together a ki
t of the gauges you use and offer it for=0Asale?- I'd probably buy one=0A
johnwf
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above |
Gauges are all over the market as some have pointed out. All you need is 2 vacuum
gauges that go from 0 to 30 in. I prefer liquid filled gauges.Buy some vacuum
tubing from the auto store or Ace Hardware )about 10'), buy two needle valves
from Ace (install them about 6" from the gauges) and then buy a 3/8" barbed
fitting and reducers to fit the small vacuum tube (sand off the barbs so it is
smooth), then get a 6" piece of poly tubing to fit on the other vacuum tube.
When you sync the carbs push off the left or right side rubber hose that is on
the carb balance tube. Now the carbs are separated. Then put the smooth brass
end in the rubber hose and slide the poly hose over the 90 degree fitting on top
of the air intake.
Start your engines!
p.s.
The clear hose in the picture is for demo and it should be regular vacuum hose.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429205#429205
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_150_169.jpg
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: rough running at 3400 RPM and above |
And the best thing I have found to use is a twin engine manifold press. gage.
Ollie
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 23, 2014, at 8:18 PM, "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Even though the Carbmate and Syncromate can split a hair what they can't do at
all is diagnose several carb problems at a glance or just by looking can't tell
you which carb to adjust, which way and by approximately how much. They can't
tell you if the cable needs to be lengthened or shortened at the throttle
arm, but only that they are out of sync.
>
> They do work well, but after you disconnect the electronic device and hook the
carbs back up the hair splitting is gone.
>
> I think the analog gauges still hold a distinct advantage over the electronic
balancer's and in many Rotax classes we have come to the same conclusion.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
> Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
> Rotax Repair Center - Heavy Maint. Rated
> Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
> Cell 520-349-7056
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429192#429192
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Vacuum gauge carb synch setup |
After I completed Rotax training at Lockwood Aviation in the spring of 2007
I came home and built a setup just like the one that Lockwood sells. It
worked great except for one thing. The fuel valves used in the setup to
dampen the pulses in engine vacuum were just too coarse in adjustment.
Several times I accidentally closed the valve and didn't notice until I
made a cable adjustment and got no change in gauge reading.
Figuring I was going to be using these for the rest of my life, I sold the
first set on eBay and went looking for better gauges and valves. I found
everything at McMaster Carr. I bought 4" (my old eyes need all the help
they can get and I don't have to worry about my glasses getting blown off
in the prop blast) stainless steel case glycerin filled gauges, p/n 38605K3
and needle valves p/n 4995K13. Let me warn you before you look them up
they're pricey. To make sure they were well protected I bought a nice case
from Harbor Freight p/n 69318 to protect them. The needle valves give me
precise control so I can adjust for about .2 in of wiggle in the needles. I
set them once and I can't remember ever adjusting them again.
Whatever you use in your vacuum gauge setup, two tips: Use at least 5 feet
of line to connect them to the engine. That gives you plenty of room to
keep the gauges out of the engine compartment and out of harm's way. Put a
union connection in the at the engine end. Not all engines take the same
size of hose to connect them to the intake manifold. The union allows you
to change out the ends quickly so you don't have to waste time improvising
if the owner is watching, or helping do the carb synch.
Rick Girard
- Trust those who seek, doubt those who find.
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