Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:04 AM - All New List Digest Format!! (Matt Dralle)
2. 12:58 AM - Runaway Trim (Vincent Welch)
3. 03:45 AM - Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer (Dean Pichon)
4. 05:42 AM - Re: 14 Hours Inspiration Report (Lenleg@aol.com)
5. 06:27 AM - Re: How to torque a bolt? (Elsa & Henry)
6. 06:34 AM - Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer (Rick Galati)
7. 07:02 AM - Re: Runaway Trim (Carl Froehlich)
8. 07:08 AM - Re: engine mount holes (Ed's Compuserve)
9. 07:54 AM - Re: Runaway Trim (Vincent Welch)
10. 08:30 AM - Re: Alternative Engine Questions (lm4@juno.com)
11. 08:35 AM - Re: engine mount holes and installing it! (Elsa & Henry)
12. 09:25 AM - Re: Runaway Trim (Jerry Springer)
13. 09:48 AM - Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer (Elsa & Henry)
14. 10:48 AM - Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer (Jerry Springer)
15. 11:17 AM - Engines (Wheeler North)
16. 11:40 AM - Data recording (Chris)
17. 12:03 PM - Re: Working on a non-owner built RV (Mike Robertson)
18. 12:27 PM - Re: Working on a non-owner built RV (Paul Besing)
19. 01:44 PM - Re: Engines (Tedd McHenry)
20. 01:44 PM - Re: Alternative Engine Questions (Kyle Boatright)
21. 01:55 PM - rudder pedal assemblies - RV7QB (Karen and Robert Brown)
22. 02:06 PM - baggage area floors, strobes & ELT's - RV7 (Karen and Robert Brown)
23. 02:53 PM - Re: Data recording (Terry Watson)
24. 03:04 PM - Re: Data recording (Kevin Horton)
25. 03:12 PM - manifold pressure reads low on VM-1000 (Tom Barnes)
26. 03:56 PM - Re: Data recording (Doug Rozendaal)
27. 04:27 PM - Re: Data recording (James E. Clark)
28. 04:32 PM - Re: Runaway Trim (Alex Peterson)
29. 04:34 PM - Re: Data recording (Doug Rozendaal)
30. 04:39 PM - Re: manifold pressure reads low on VM-1000 (Alex Peterson)
31. 04:48 PM - Oil Cooler/Heat Muff (Jim Bean)
32. 05:02 PM - Re: Engines (kempthornes)
33. 05:12 PM - Re: Alternative Engine Questions (kempthornes)
34. 05:33 PM - Re: Alternative Engine Questions (Dave Bristol)
35. 05:57 PM - Re: Alternative Engine Questions (Finn Lassen)
36. 06:10 PM - Re: Data recording (Bill VonDane)
37. 07:50 PM - More Freebies!!!! (KAKlewin@aol.com)
38. 08:01 PM - RV's, BAD Wind! & Larry Vetterman (Long). (Stein Bruch)
39. 08:07 PM - Re: Engines (Jim Oke)
40. 08:21 PM - Paint and filling tips (Jerry)
41. 08:30 PM - Freebies Gone!!! (KAKlewin@aol.com)
42. 09:35 PM - Re: Prop (Reinback)
43. 09:47 PM - Re: Paint and filling tips (Jim Oke)
44. 09:50 PM - Re: Prop (Reinback)
45. 10:27 PM - Re: Alternative Engine Questions (Tedd McHenry)
46. 10:42 PM - Drill Sizes (Norman)
47. 11:12 PM - New, NEW List Digest Format... (Matt Dralle)
48. 11:42 PM - Re: Drill Sizes (BrownTool@aol.com)
Message 1
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Subject: | All New List Digest Format!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
I've just finished up some awesome code that will completely change your
thinking about how email Digests should work and look! Yeah, I'm kind of
proud of it, that is true... :-)
What you'll be getting in the new List Digest message is the
following: The main message will contain the new text-based index I
introduced a few weeks back. But here's where things get
different... Instead of simply including all of the day's posts in line
within the message, there will now be included two enclosures - one with a
HTML encoded version of the Digests, and another with the usual text-only
version of the Digests.
I think you're really going to like the new HTML enclosure of the
Digests. All of the Indexes at the top are now hyperlinked to the actual
posts and there are hyperlinks at the top of each post that will:
o Take you back to the Index
o Take you to the next post
o Take you to the previous post
o Allow you to respond to the LIST regarding the message
o Allow you to respond directly to the POSTER regarding the message
You'll have to check it out to appreciate the full goodness of the new
format! :-)
The text-only version is basically exactly the same data that has been
normally sent in line within the message.
You'll also note that the filenames of the enclosures are such that they
can be conveniently placed in a personal "archive" directory for future
reference.
Hope you enjoy the new Digest format!!!
Oh, and don't forget about the Fund Raiser! :-)
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Hey Guys,
I am building my electrical distribution around the EXP Bus (before you
start about Bob and his fuses, I already have the unit in hand and intend to
use it). I was reading the most recent issue of Sport Aviation discussing
cockpit layout. One of the items mentioned was being able to reach circuit
breakers to disconnect in the event of runaway trim or flaps. I can
accomplish this by putting switches in the power line (trim and flaps are
actuated by switching the ground). Has anyone had a problem with runaway
trim with the MAC units? Has anyone had uncommanded flap movement? In
other words, do I really need to include the disconnect switches?
Vince Welch
RV-8A
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon@msn.com>
A buffer differs from a grinder in that the shaft that extends from either side
of the motor is longer. This little extra difference (1-3") between the motor
and the buffing/grinding wheel makes it much easier to buff large/irregular
parts. This configuration makes the buffer better for buffing (than a grinder).
However, if you are using files and sandpaper, the switch to a grinder with
a buffing wheel be completely satisfactory. Mounting your bench grinder on
a pedastal and/or putting buffing wheels on both sides helps to ensure you can
easily reach all areas of your parts.
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
RV-4 (flying)
Morgantown, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Will & Lynda Allen
Subject: RV-List: Bench grinder vs Buffer
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@attbi.com>
I'm needing to get something that's faster than using sand paper and files
and am looking for some feedback on the less expensive Bench Grinder vs the
Buffer. Is there anything that the Buffer will do that the grinder won't?
The only difference I can see is that the grinder has the guards that might
be in the way but I would think I could take those off if needed. And I'm
assuming I can use all the same attachments for the grinder ie: scotch
bright wheel, wire brush wheel, etc.
Thanks,
Will Allen
North Bend, Wa.
RV8 Emp
Message 4
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Subject: | RE: 14 Hours Inspiration Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Fellow Builders:
Just an update to hopefully inspire you to keep working hard on your
projects. I now have 14 hours on my 8A. I have spent most of this time
taking care of the minor problems and squawks that are common on most
projects.
I was lucky in that the DAR gave me a 50 miles fly-off area. I think I would
go crazy if I only had 25 miles ... definitely beg for 50. I am flying
almost every day the weather allows. I have not painted or put the wheel
pants/fairings on yet.
The EGT, CHT temps are great. CHT in the 380 range. I had to block off part
of the oil cooler ... temps were too cool. I am still not getting the full
2700 rpm on takeoff. Right now getting 2600. When pulling back to 2500 rpm
I am still showing around 1500-1600 FPM climbout at 110 knots. Pull it back
to 90 - 95 knots and you get 1800 - 2000 FPM. The angle of climb will
frighten you at first ... it is definitely not a Piper !!!!!
Cruise at 4500' is around 140-145 kts at 2350 rpm. Yesterday I saw a ground
speed of 210 mph. I like that !!!
One of the most pleasant surprises is the ease of landing. According to my
training with Mike Seager in the 6A ... I would say the 8A is easier to land.
It is such a thrill to open that hanger to see a plane ready to fly sitting
there. That alone is enough for me to encourage you to keep working hard.
Don't give up. There are many times during the final six months you feel
like selling it as scrap aluminum but just a few hours in the air will make
you glad you didn't.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL (res)
Greensboro, N.C.
14 hours !!
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: How to torque a bolt? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
As some have responded, you torque the nut. But there will be instances
where this cannot be done, such as the bolts that hold the u/c weldments to
the bulkhead and spar on the 6-A. In those cases, add a AN 960 washer under
the bolt head (if its length allows), coat the shank, (NOT THE THREADS) with
a little anti-seize compound and torque the bolt to near the top limit of
ft-lbs as shown in in AC 43-13-XX
Cheers!!-------Henry Hore
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Will Lynda,
My bench grinder, like most is not really the best platform for buffing
operations but as a construction tool a grinder will get used much more often.
So if it were an either/or buying choice, I would go with a grinder. Faced with
buffing out my aluminum spinner and not willing to spring for a new buffing
machine, I used my Delta drill press and it worked out just fine. With 12 speeds
to choose from, it was easy to select an optimum speed based upon the diameter
of a given buffing wheel. I simply mounted the buffing wheel on a
long 1/4" threaded bolt well away from the drill press's chuck. With
a 16" throat, it was no problem to manipulate the spinner without any chance of
it bumping up against anything. It took a little getting used
to having the buffing wheel attached and spinning vertically rather than
horizontally but was really no big deal. Rick Galati
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
In a word - no. Flaps don't get touched unless you are slow anyway. The
elevator and/or aileron trim, even at extreme travel, are controllable with
the stick.
Carl Froehlich
RV-8A (flying)
Vienna, VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
Subject: RV-List: Runaway Trim
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Hey Guys,
I am building my electrical distribution around the EXP Bus (before you
start about Bob and his fuses, I already have the unit in hand and intend to
use it). I was reading the most recent issue of Sport Aviation discussing
cockpit layout. One of the items mentioned was being able to reach circuit
breakers to disconnect in the event of runaway trim or flaps. I can
accomplish this by putting switches in the power line (trim and flaps are
actuated by switching the ground). Has anyone had a problem with runaway
trim with the MAC units? Has anyone had uncommanded flap movement? In
other words, do I really need to include the disconnect switches?
Vince Welch
RV-8A
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: engine mount holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed's Compuserve" <edwardoconnor@compuserve.com>
Take a look at some pictures on my web site. I used an engine stand and
2x4s. I did not drill out the holes. I cut some threaded rod to length
through the firewall and 2x4s and taps on each end. I fabricated an
adjustable tail stand since you have to do some things to the fuselage with
it level. Site <http://homepage.mac.com/edwardoconnor>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Thanks Carl, just trying to see if there is any failure mode that could
apply a ground to one of the control wires. It would make for a bad day if
something chaffed and the flap down wire found a ground in cruise flight.
Do Not Archive
Vince
>From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Runaway Trim
>Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 10:00:57 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
>
>In a word - no. Flaps don't get touched unless you are slow anyway. The
>elevator and/or aileron trim, even at extreme travel, are controllable with
>the stick.
>
>Carl Froehlich
>RV-8A (flying)
>Vienna, VA
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Runaway Trim
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>I am building my electrical distribution around the EXP Bus (before you
>start about Bob and his fuses, I already have the unit in hand and intend
>to
>use it). I was reading the most recent issue of Sport Aviation discussing
>cockpit layout. One of the items mentioned was being able to reach circuit
>breakers to disconnect in the event of runaway trim or flaps. I can
>accomplish this by putting switches in the power line (trim and flaps are
>actuated by switching the ground). Has anyone had a problem with runaway
>trim with the MAC units? Has anyone had uncommanded flap movement? In
>other words, do I really need to include the disconnect switches?
>
>Vince Welch
>RV-8A
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Chris,
Subaru has a boxer engine (horizontally opposed) much like
lync. or cont. It's 2.5 liter (2500 cc) will put out 160 to 220 HP
depending on weather it's turbo'd or has a cam grind etc. It also
happens to be liquid cooled, which means far better engine heat
balancing as well as heat in the cabin. You could probably complete
a project such as this for 7 thousand or so. Thats about where the
prices start for a mid time linc., probably without accessories ($$$).
I keep hearing that such a soob can run at cruise on about 8 gal. /Hr
while the comparable lync would use about 10 to 13. Thats part of
the answer. HTH
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 19:02:09 -0600 Chris <chrisw3@cox.net> writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> Ok I know the basics about how engines work and what the difference
> between 2 and 4 stroke, gas and diesel, Fuel injection and
> Carburetors
> but that is about it. Lately there is a lot of talk about
> "alternative"
> engines. One of the things everyone seems to hit on, is that
> traditional aviation engines are an old design and that newer
> engines in
> cars are more "high tech". As I see it most of the high tech with
> the
> ECU and sensors is as much for pollution control as anything else.
> I
> personally couldn't care less about emissions and if those who are
> in
> power really cared, I would be able to fill my car with Propane,
> Natural
> Gas, Methanol, and or Hydrogen at the corner gas station, but back
> to
> the topic. Also there is a lot in car engines to allow them to run
> efficiently at low power settings which we don't really care about
> in
> airplanes. My question is this. Other than Electronic Ignition
> (which
> is easy enough to put on a more traditional aircraft engine) what is
> so
> high tech about car engines that has any application in an airplane?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: engine mount holes and installing it! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Living in Canada, I bought all the kits at one time to avoid the annual
price-hikes and the pitfalls of several border crossings. Thus I had the
engine mount available at the time I built-up the firewall. I simply laid it
flat on a table, centered the mount on it, clamped it in place and then
back-drilled the holes through the tubes using a 3/8" B&D Bullet drill.
Worked great! With the fuselage out of the jig and up-right, I used two
2x4"s bolted to the firewall (through the mount holes) to act as front legs.
Before mounting the engine, I turned the fuselage on it side resting it on
two other 2x4"s bolted in place. I then primed the belly and painted it with
the final finish colour. Sure beats crawling under the fuselage to do that
later!
Regarding mounting the engine: Van's instructions on how to install the
bolts through the "Lord" mounts (at least in the manual that came with my
kit in 1995) are a "bunch of garbage"! It says, with the engine suspended,
"----it can be moved into position on the engine mount and the two upper
Lord mounts and the bolts installed (*) and partially tightened. then by
lifting the engine with the hoist, and actually lifting part of the
airframe also, the upper lord mounts are flexed upward enough that the lower
mounts are then brought nearly into position.---"--Nuts!! Think about it! If
you do as suggested, all that will happen is that the engine will pivot
upward on the top mounts and PULL AWAY from the bottom ones!! No way will
you be "--- lifting part of the airframe also---"!!
(*) That's the problem,-getting those first two bolts through! Here is what
I did, working alone: I used two lengths of 1/4" threaded rod to clamp the
top mounts. Being 1/8" smaller dia. than the bolts, they went in easily.
Then I lowered the hoist to allow the weight of the engine to
COMPRESS the front biscuit of the lower mounts. I could peer through from
the rear and align the biscuit with the engine bolt hole and then insert the
bolt and the rear biscuit easily. Once both bolts were in and tight, I
lifted the engine to compress the top front biscuit of the top mounts and
removing the 1/4" rods, inserted the bolts as was done on the
bottom.---Simple and easy.
Sure beats some articles I've seen in other publications that describe how
other people did it with aides pushing and heaving to get the bolts in!
Cheers!!--------Henry Hore
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Runaway Trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
In an emergency situation like that you could turn the master switch off.
I do not buy the Bob Nucholls approach to not be able to reach the breakers.
In my airplane I use the breaker switch combination, So I can turn off
any circuit I wish with a circuit breaker switch.
Jerry
Vincent Welch wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks Carl, just trying to see if there is any failure mode that could
> apply a ground to one of the control wires. It would make for a bad day if
> something chaffed and the flap down wire found a ground in cruise flight.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Vince
>
>
>
>>From: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Runaway Trim
>>Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 10:00:57 -0500
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Froehlich" <carlfro@erols.com>
>>
>>In a word - no. Flaps don't get touched unless you are slow anyway. The
>>elevator and/or aileron trim, even at extreme travel, are controllable with
>>the stick.
>>
>>Carl Froehlich
>>RV-8A (flying)
>>Vienna, VA
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Vincent Welch
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: Runaway Trim
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>>
>>
>>Hey Guys,
>>
>>I am building my electrical distribution around the EXP Bus (before you
>>start about Bob and his fuses, I already have the unit in hand and intend
>>to
>>use it). I was reading the most recent issue of Sport Aviation discussing
>>cockpit layout. One of the items mentioned was being able to reach circuit
>>breakers to disconnect in the event of runaway trim or flaps. I can
>>accomplish this by putting switches in the power line (trim and flaps are
>>actuated by switching the ground). Has anyone had a problem with runaway
>>trim with the MAC units? Has anyone had uncommanded flap movement? In
>>other words, do I really need to include the disconnect switches?
>>
>>Vince Welch
>>RV-8A
>>
>>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
The very, VERY, best tool to have in your shop is table-top 1'' belt sander!
I have a Delta 31-050. It uses 30'' dia. belts which are easily available in
several grit sizes. My wife also loves it because I use it to sharpen all
her kitchen knives using the fine grit belt. Practically every piece of
aluminum on my 6-A has had corners and slots cleaned, deburred, rounded,
etc, and after 7 years of use (abuse?) it's still going strong! I don't know
if Delta still make that model. The ones I see advertised also have a disc
sander on the side of the belt drive. Maybe this is a better purchase.
A bench grinder is not good for doing aluminum work. The wheels that come
with them are too coarse for that and will clog-up. I am fortunate enough to
have the original "ShopSmith" (now 50 years old) and I use it for all
drill-press work and have the scotch-bright wheel mounted on one of its
arbors.
Another most useful tool is a Dremel hand grinder-polisher. Funnily enough
the kit does not include the most useful accessory (not here in Canada
anyway) which is a fiber reinforced cut-off wheel.The ones that come with
the kit are not reinforced and shatter at the least excuse. "Craftsman"
(#36959) makes a 1 1/4"dia x 1/32" thk wheel (5 in package) that is great to
cut aluminum sheet and cut holes, for example the Naca vent-holes in the
fuselage side. They wear pretty fast cutting aluminum, you'll find!
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Bench grinder vs Buffer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I find that a double ended type bench grinder works great. Have a fine grinding
wheel
on one end and a Scotch type buffing wheel on the other end.
Elsa & Henry wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> The very, VERY, best tool to have in your shop is table-top 1'' belt sander!
> I have a Delta 31-050. It uses 30'' dia. belts which are easily available in
> several grit sizes. My wife also loves it because I use it to sharpen all
> her kitchen knives using the fine grit belt. Practically every piece of
> aluminum on my 6-A has had corners and slots cleaned, deburred, rounded,
> etc, and after 7 years of use (abuse?) it's still going strong! I don't know
> if Delta still make that model. The ones I see advertised also have a disc
> sander on the side of the belt drive. Maybe this is a better purchase.
>
> A bench grinder is not good for doing aluminum work. The wheels that come
> with them are too coarse for that and will clog-up. I am fortunate enough to
> have the original "ShopSmith" (now 50 years old) and I use it for all
> drill-press work and have the scotch-bright wheel mounted on one of its
>
Yes, they well clog up, but just use a grinding wheel dressing tool to clean
it once in a while.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
The only real difference between auto vs. aviation engines is their
respective missions. One is designed to accelerate and decelerate a lot, to
not run at full power continously and to deliver reasonable power over its
entire RPM range which can be from 600-6000 RPM commonly, the other is
designed to stay at a constant power/RPM setting, to deliver most of its
power between 2000-2700 RPM, and run at full power until it wears out.
And finally one is designed to spin a nice round symetrical weight, where
the other is designed to spin a god awful set of paddles that are trying to
rip its face off in five different ways, at all times. ;{)
So, trying to use one for the other, either way, is kinda silly, expensive
and can be risky if not done correctly, not that there really is a correct
way to do this. (I know I'm gonna get flammed here)
Its just that it makes no sense to me to redesign something to an
application that no part in it was ever designed for, when there is already
something that is designed for this. (You will not save one dime doing this,
but you might have some fun if you are into that much work.)
I think we will get a lot further by using our efforts at improving the
thing that was designed for this application, rather than redesigning
something that wasn't meant for this application.
Which, by the way, is what the engine manufacturers are doing via the
IOF-360 lyc and the IOF-240 Cont. being produced or modified by TCM
Aerosance. TexLyc is also working on their own version of this, but they
both need to get a clue on costs. The TCM FADEC costs as much as the engine
does. I am in the middle of installing one and its a nice product if it runs
well, but damm, the cost is unbelieveable.
The real issue about these powerplant costs are mass production....
So next time you order an aircraft engine, order twenty of them.... ;{)
Message 16
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<ExperimentalAvionics@yahoogroups.com>,
RV-list <rv-list@matronics.com>,
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I was thinking it would be nice to be able to record EGT CHT OAT
Altitude, IAS and GPS data on a frequency of a few times a second. I
think this would be a very valuable tool while in the test flight stage
of a new home built plane. Is there a way to do this with say a lap top
and no more than say $2000 for the data acquisition equipment. I know
recording the GPS data wouldn't be that hard with a lap top but what
about all the rest of it?
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Working on a non-owner built RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Working on a non-owner built RV
>Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:56:58 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
>You got it. Since you don't hold the repairman certificate, treat it like
>a
>certified plane, as far as work is concerned. All your work (beyond
>maintenance such as oil changes, tires, etc) needs to be signed off by an
>A&P, or the the builder that holds the repairman certificate. For the
>annual condition inspection, it needs to be an IA or the original builder.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Henry Hochberg" <infodocta@pol.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Working on a non-owner built RV
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <infodocta@pol.net>
> >
> >
> > This question may have been addressed before, so excuse me if it has.
> > When you buy a used RV and then want to do the work on it yourself,
> > including major work (such as converting mechanical flaps to
> > electrical), what do the regs say about your not being the builder?
> > Can you just have an IA supervise?Thanks.
> >
> > Henry H.
> >
> >
> > ------------------ Reply Separator --------------------
> > Originally From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 11/27/02
> > Date: 11/27/2002 11:57pm
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
>
>
Paul,
I'm sorry but I have to jump in here. Anybody can work on an experimental
aircraft and no certificate at all is required. The only time a certificate
is required by regulations is during the annual condition inspection. Then,
only the original builder with a Repairman's Certificate or an licensed A&P,
not an IA, can conduct the inspection.
As to major alterations you have to go by whatever tyhe Operating
Linmitations state. The older ones say that any major change has to be
coordinated with the local FSDO, and the new ones state that the owner can
just make an entry in the maintenance logs, conduct a minimum 5 hour test
flight, sign it off and go on your merry way.
Just remember....ALL maintenance MUST be entered in the maintenance logs.
Seeing as how anybody can do the maintenance, only those entries not entered
could get one in trouble (maybe).
Mike Robertson
DAS FED
RV-8A, 6A, 9A
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Working on a non-owner built RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Thanks, Mike. Yes, I was corrected many times. I was just going off of
what my DAR told me. It seems that there is alot of mis information being
dissimated by the different DAR's out there. They all have their own idea
on what the regs say we must do.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Working on a non-owner built RV
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Working on a non-owner built RV
> >Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2002 13:56:58 -0700
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> >
> >You got it. Since you don't hold the repairman certificate, treat it
like
> >a
> >certified plane, as far as work is concerned. All your work (beyond
> >maintenance such as oil changes, tires, etc) needs to be signed off by an
> >A&P, or the the builder that holds the repairman certificate. For the
> >annual condition inspection, it needs to be an IA or the original
builder.
> >
> >Paul Besing
> >RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> >http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> >Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> >http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Henry Hochberg" <infodocta@pol.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Working on a non-owner built RV
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Henry Hochberg <infodocta@pol.net>
> > >
> > >
> > > This question may have been addressed before, so excuse me if it has.
> > > When you buy a used RV and then want to do the work on it yourself,
> > > including major work (such as converting mechanical flaps to
> > > electrical), what do the regs say about your not being the builder?
> > > Can you just have an IA supervise?Thanks.
> > >
> > > Henry H.
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------ Reply Separator --------------------
> > > Originally From: RV-List Digest Server <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 11/27/02
> > > Date: 11/27/2002 11:57pm
> > >
> > >
> > > *
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> Paul,
>
> I'm sorry but I have to jump in here. Anybody can work on an experimental
> aircraft and no certificate at all is required. The only time a
certificate
> is required by regulations is during the annual condition inspection.
Then,
> only the original builder with a Repairman's Certificate or an licensed
A&P,
> not an IA, can conduct the inspection.
> As to major alterations you have to go by whatever tyhe Operating
> Linmitations state. The older ones say that any major change has to be
> coordinated with the local FSDO, and the new ones state that the owner can
> just make an entry in the maintenance logs, conduct a minimum 5 hour test
> flight, sign it off and go on your merry way.
> Just remember....ALL maintenance MUST be entered in the maintenance logs.
> Seeing as how anybody can do the maintenance, only those entries not
entered
> could get one in trouble (maybe).
>
> Mike Robertson
> DAS FED
> RV-8A, 6A, 9A
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Its just that it makes no sense to me to redesign something to an
> application that no part in it was ever designed for,
Many people say this, or something like it (including Van), but never, ever
mention even one thing that would be done differently on an engine designed for
automotive use as compared to aircraft use. I'm not suggesting that there are
no differences, but I am suggesting that most of the people who say this have
little idea what any of those differences are. Which makes me wonder what
makes them think they're qualified to offer an opinion.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I've got a buddy who has installed one of the 220 HP Subaru's in his
Velocity. He's achieved 27 hours and 3 engine related emergency landings
since his first flight last February. This is an individual who has gone
the extra step to do things right, and he still doesn't have a satisfactory
drivetrain.
So far, his biggest problem is finding a reliable gearbox.He's on gearbox MK
III now, and is dealing with people who advertise these things in the back
of Sport Aviation.
If you want to fly and not tinker, go with a proven package.
Kyle Boatright
----- Original Message -----
From: <lm4@juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Engine Questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
>
> Chris,
> Subaru has a boxer engine (horizontally opposed) much like
> lync. or cont. It's 2.5 liter (2500 cc) will put out 160 to 220 HP
> depending on weather it's turbo'd or has a cam grind etc. It also
> happens to be liquid cooled, which means far better engine heat
> balancing as well as heat in the cabin. You could probably complete
> a project such as this for 7 thousand or so. Thats about where the
> prices start for a mid time linc., probably without accessories ($$$).
> I keep hearing that such a soob can run at cruise on about 8 gal. /Hr
> while the comparable lync would use about 10 to 13. Thats part of
> the answer. HTH
> Larry Mac Donald
> Rochester N.Y.
>
> On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 19:02:09 -0600 Chris <chrisw3@cox.net> writes:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
> >
> > Ok I know the basics about how engines work and what the difference
> > between 2 and 4 stroke, gas and diesel, Fuel injection and
> > Carburetors
> > but that is about it. Lately there is a lot of talk about
> > "alternative"
> > engines. One of the things everyone seems to hit on, is that
> > traditional aviation engines are an old design and that newer
> > engines in
> > cars are more "high tech". As I see it most of the high tech with
> > the
> > ECU and sensors is as much for pollution control as anything else.
> > I
> > personally couldn't care less about emissions and if those who are
> > in
> > power really cared, I would be able to fill my car with Propane,
> > Natural
> > Gas, Methanol, and or Hydrogen at the corner gas station, but back
> > to
> > the topic. Also there is a lot in car engines to allow them to run
> > efficiently at low power settings which we don't really care about
> > in
> > airplanes. My question is this. Other than Electronic Ignition
> > (which
> > is easy enough to put on a more traditional aircraft engine) what is
> > so
> > high tech about car engines that has any application in an airplane?
> >
> > --
> > Chris Woodhouse
> > 3147 SW 127th St.
> > Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> > 405-691-5206 (home)
> > chrisw@programmer.net
> > N35 20.492'
> > W97 34.342'
> >
> >
> >
> > _->
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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Subject: | rudder pedal assemblies - RV7QB |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
I am bummed at my lack of foresight, but felt the need to warn other builders,
especially QB's...
The plans give exact dimensions to trim the (steel) rudder pedal weldments, in
my case 40 1/8" for the right and 40 5/32" for the left. I dutifully trimmed
to those exact dimensions.
When I trial fitted the (trimmed) assembly to the fuselage at the 3" minimum distance
(from the forward side of the firewall stiffener), I find that I have .16"
of rudder pedal weldment end play. I don't know what that magic number should
be, but if the side rudder pedal bearing blocks (the rudder assembly) are
adjusted toward a more aft position, this rudder pedal weldment endplay becomes
more like over 1/2", which really seems like a lot of lateral movement in the
rudder pedals. I know I should have trial fitted the rudder pedal weldments
before I trimmed...but at least my rudder pedals are cut to the length specified
in the plans!
I trimmed a total of .117" from these steel tubes, I think I would have been better
off not trimming at all.
I think I am going to install some 1" nylon washers inside the (nylon) side rudder
pedal bearing blocks to reduce the endplay, any thoughts on this remedy??
Bob Brown
RV7A - fuselage
Message 22
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Subject: | baggage area floors, strobes & ELT's - RV7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
Thanks for the suggestions on the placement of strobe power supplies and ELT's.
I will be placing mine between the ribs under the baggage floor similar to some
of the examples sent to me offline.
I have installed nutplates at various locations in the baggage area ribs to make
the baggage area floor panels removable...I don't like having places in the
airplane I can't LOOK at. This option will also allow easy installation and future
inspection access for antennas and wiring.
Again, thanks for the options...there's a lot of thoughtful builders out there.
Bob Brown
RV7A - fuselage
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bluemountain's EFIS-one has a built-in data recorder that records "each
fixed sensor and every user configured sensor written every 5 seconds."
Their example includes time, airspeed, true airspeed, altitude, outside air
temperature, density altitude, heading, rpm, manifold pressure, fuel left,
fuel right, volts, fuel pressure, oil pressure, and coolant pressure.
The flash memory in it can hold 12 hours of flight data.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
I was thinking it would be nice to be able to record EGT CHT OAT
Altitude, IAS and GPS data on a frequency of a few times a second. I
think this would be a very valuable tool while in the test flight stage
of a new home built plane. Is there a way to do this with say a lap top
and no more than say $2000 for the data acquisition equipment. I know
recording the GPS data wouldn't be that hard with a lap top but what
about all the rest of it?
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Data recording |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
>I was thinking it would be nice to be able to record EGT CHT OAT
>Altitude, IAS and GPS data on a frequency of a few times a second. I
>think this would be a very valuable tool while in the test flight stage
>of a new home built plane. Is there a way to do this with say a lap top
>and no more than say $2000 for the data acquisition equipment. I know
>recording the GPS data wouldn't be that hard with a lap top but what
>about all the rest of it?
>
>--
>Chris Woodhouse
>3147 SW 127th St.
>Oklahoma City, OK 73170
>405-691-5206 (home)
>chrisw@programmer.net
>N35 20.492'
>W97 34.342'
>
Some of the integrated engine instrument packages are designed to
either record data, or to feed it to a laptop so it can record it. I
know the Grand Rapids EIS systems can output data to a laptop, and I
believe the Rocky Mountain microMonitor has some sort of
functionality like this.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 25
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Subject: | manifold pressure reads low on VM-1000 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
Listers,
With the engine off, the VM-1000 reports manifold pressure at 29.2 when it
should be reporting 29.8 +/- (based on field elevation). I talked to the Vision
"man" while at OSH and he said I have a unit that is at the limit of their
tolerance. Looking through the archives, I can find no other references to this
problem. He offered to allow me to try another unit, but before I do that,
I would like to know if this is an issue that I should or should not be concerned
with.
Thanks in advance for any personal experience on this issue.
Tom Barnes -6 in hangar, wings on.
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Data recording |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Go to this site and click Data Acquisition,
you can collect all kinds of info and it is not that expensive. You need to
be a whiz to get is all wired up and programed, but the equipment is not
that expensive. BTW they have a GREAT set of catalogs that have loads of
good info and ideas in them.
Tailwinds
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <chrisw3@cox.net>
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
Take a visit to:
http://flightperformance.com/default.htm
The system does not do everything you want but many of the things you
mention. I think it is about $2500.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris
> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 2:42 PM
> To: ExperimentalAvionics@yahoogroups.com; RV-list; vansairforce
> Subject: RV-List: Data recording
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> I was thinking it would be nice to be able to record EGT CHT OAT
> Altitude, IAS and GPS data on a frequency of a few times a second. I
> think this would be a very valuable tool while in the test flight stage
> of a new home built plane. Is there a way to do this with say a lap top
> and no more than say $2000 for the data acquisition equipment. I know
> recording the GPS data wouldn't be that hard with a lap top but what
> about all the rest of it?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> apply a ground to one of the control wires. It would make
> for a bad day if
> something chafed and the flap down wire found a ground in
> cruise flight.
It should take more than this failure to cause uncommanded flap
movement. The standard flap wiring should take a hot wire and ground
wire to the center of a DPDT, three position spring centered switch.
Everything "downstream" of this switch, when it is in the neutral
position, is dead, meaning it is totally disconnected from the airplane.
Two different things would have to spontaneously happen to cause an
uncommanded flap movement. A more probable failure would be the switch
sticking during a commanded movement.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 235 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Data recording |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
DUH! www.omega.com
then click Data Acquisition
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Data recording
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> Go to this site and click Data Acquisition,
>
> you can collect all kinds of info and it is not that expensive. You need
to
> be a whiz to get is all wired up and programed, but the equipment is not
> that expensive. BTW they have a GREAT set of catalogs that have loads of
> good info and ideas in them.
>
> Tailwinds
> Doug Rozendaal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris" <chrisw3@cox.net>
> To: <ExperimentalAvionics@yahoogroups.com>; "
>
>
Message 30
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Subject: | manifold pressure reads low on VM-1000 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> With the engine off, the VM-1000 reports manifold
> pressure at 29.2 when it should be reporting 29.8 +/- (based
> on field elevation).
You probably already have this figured correctly, but.... How are you
getting the 29.8" in the above example? The ATIS or whatever will only
give a barometer reading which will agree with a MAP gauge at a sea
level airport.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 235 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 31
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Subject: | Oil Cooler/Heat Muff |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
I have my oil cooler mounted on the baffle behind #3 cylinder, pretty
much as Van's drawing shows. My heat muff is below on a cross tube. It
would be rather convenient to run the heat muff scat tube off of the
back of the oil cooler. I am picturing a 2" flange placed over the
bottom of the back of the cooler.
I am not looking to improve the heating effiency, it's just a
mechanically convenient way to get the scat tube to the heat muff.
The engine is an IO360 which seems to need all the cooling it can get.
On the other hand there is constant air flow through the muff because
the heat valve dumps it overboard when heat is not is use
So what does the group think about the effect this might have on the oil
cooler, IE might it raise the oil temp? Anybody tried this?
Jim Bean
RV-8
Cooling Baffles (3 months)
Starting third year building
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 11:14 AM 12/1/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Its just that it makes no sense to me ................
Lots of things make no sense to me -- usually because I am ignorant about them.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 33
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Subject: | Re: Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 04:40 PM 12/1/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
>I've got a buddy who has installed one of the 220 HP Subaru's in his
>Velocity. He's achieved 27 hours and 3 engine related emergency landings
>since his first flight last February. This is an individual who has gone
>the extra step to do things right, and he still doesn't have a satisfactory
>drivetrain.
Give him some encouragement, Kyle. You are a buddy.
There is a story about an engineering manager, at Baldwin Locomotive Works
I think. After a new locomotive was all designed he gathered his engineers
together and said, "Okay, guys, let's build one and see what doesn't work".
The development of new products involves many corrections along the
way. Guys who do engine conversions right, like your buddy, are bold
adventurers. They have the courage (and funds) the rest of us lack.
Aren't there builders with a few engine related emergency landings who are
flying Lycomings?????
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
220 HP is a LOT of power to be asking of a 152 cu engine, and even 1 HP per
cubic inch is pushing it. The normal aircraft engine is about 1/2 HP per
cubic inch, which I admit is a little conservative but almost 1.5 per cu
inch? Not on my airplane.
Automotive engines are not designed to put out high HP for long periods of
time as are aircraft engines.
Dave
lm4@juno.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
>
> Chris,
> Subaru has a boxer engine (horizontally opposed) much like
> lync. or cont. It's 2.5 liter (2500 cc) will put out 160 to 220 HP
> depending on weather it's turbo'd or has a cam grind etc. It also
> happens to be liquid cooled, which means far better engine heat
> balancing as well as heat in the cabin. You could probably complete
> a project such as this for 7 thousand or so. Thats about where the
> prices start for a mid time linc., probably without accessories ($$$).
> I keep hearing that such a soob can run at cruise on about 8 gal. /Hr
> while the comparable lync would use about 10 to 13. Thats part of
> the answer. HTH
> Larry Mac Donald
> Rochester N.Y.
>
> On Sat, 30 Nov 2002 19:02:09 -0600 Chris <chrisw3@cox.net> writes:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
> >
> > Ok I know the basics about how engines work and what the difference
> > between 2 and 4 stroke, gas and diesel, Fuel injection and
> > Carburetors
> > but that is about it. Lately there is a lot of talk about
> > "alternative"
> > engines. One of the things everyone seems to hit on, is that
> > traditional aviation engines are an old design and that newer
> > engines in
> > cars are more "high tech". As I see it most of the high tech with
> > the
> > ECU and sensors is as much for pollution control as anything else.
> > I
> > personally couldn't care less about emissions and if those who are
> > in
> > power really cared, I would be able to fill my car with Propane,
> > Natural
> > Gas, Methanol, and or Hydrogen at the corner gas station, but back
> > to
> > the topic. Also there is a lot in car engines to allow them to run
> > efficiently at low power settings which we don't really care about
> > in
> > airplanes. My question is this. Other than Electronic Ignition
> > (which
> > is easy enough to put on a more traditional aircraft engine) what is
> > so
> > high tech about car engines that has any application in an airplane?
> >
> > --
> > Chris Woodhouse
> > 3147 SW 127th St.
> > Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> > 405-691-5206 (home)
> > chrisw@programmer.net
> > N35 20.492'
> > W97 34.342'
> >
> >
> >
> > _->
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 35
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Subject: | Re: Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
I really need to take issue with the "funds" statement. The reason I
chose to install a Mazda 13-B rotary in my RV-3 was lack of funds. Sure
it took more time and there have been adventures along the way, but I've
spent nowhere near what a Lycoming would have cost me. Not to mention
what I've saved by running on the cheapest Mo gas available. The gearbox
issue is well solved with Tracy's gearbox being available. He also sells
a redundant Ignition and Fuel injection controller. There are even
people selling engine mounts if you don't care to make/modify your own.
Soon intake manifold and throttle body will be available too. This is no
longer virgin territory.
Finn
304 hours since August 2000.
kempthornes wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>At 04:40 PM 12/1/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>>
>>I've got a buddy who has installed one of the 220 HP Subaru's in his
>>Velocity. He's achieved 27 hours and 3 engine related emergency landings
>>since his first flight last February. This is an individual who has gone
>>the extra step to do things right, and he still doesn't have a satisfactory
>>drivetrain.
>>
>>
>
>Give him some encouragement, Kyle. You are a buddy.
>
>There is a story about an engineering manager, at Baldwin Locomotive Works
>I think. After a new locomotive was all designed he gathered his engineers
>together and said, "Okay, guys, let's build one and see what doesn't work".
>
>The development of new products involves many corrections along the
>way. Guys who do engine conversions right, like your buddy, are bold
>adventurers. They have the courage (and funds) the rest of us lack.
>
>Aren't there builders with a few engine related emergency landings who are
>flying Lycomings?????
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK flying!
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Data recording |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv@vondane.com>
If you use the EIS 4000 for your engine monitoring you can do this...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris" <chrisw3@cox.net>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; "vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Data recording
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> I was thinking it would be nice to be able to record EGT CHT OAT
> Altitude, IAS and GPS data on a frequency of a few times a second. I
> think this would be a very valuable tool while in the test flight stage
> of a new home built plane. Is there a way to do this with say a lap top
> and no more than say $2000 for the data acquisition equipment. I know
> recording the GPS data wouldn't be that hard with a lap top but what
> about all the rest of it?
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
Message 37
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Subject: | More Freebies!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
Well my wife made me clean the attic...again...doesn't she know that my plane
will never get done with all my honey do's!!! uggg...anyway....I found two
more Air Force Issue Flight Suits that were issued to me about 5 years ago.
Looks to me that I worn them very little (there were a bit short..hence the
early retirement) and are in excellent condition. Specifics below:
AF Green Nomex Flight Suit
Size 40S (40 Short) Should fit height of 5'4" to 5"8", 40in chest
All patch velcro sewn on suit (my old Captain rank is still sewn on it,
but easily removed)
I have two of these...and judging from the last one I put on here you have
to be fast to get your hands on one. Im not selling these, but there are
yours FREE!! (few things in the RV world are free..and hell its christmas!!!)
I am asking for about 10 bucks to cover shipping. To spread the wealth I
would like to give to two separate individuals.
SO....if your interested...please respond off list....
Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
RV6A Finishing
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 38
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"Rv-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: | RV's, BAD Wind! & Larry Vetterman (Long). |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi All,
I just arrived home from my Thanksgiving flight to Sturgis-SD from
Minneapolis. Instead of a lengthy trip report, I've just got one (OK, 2)
interesting items to report on.
I left for Sturgis Last Wed (11/27) from Minneapolis at 10:00 am. Weather
forecast for Sturgis was partly cloudy with light winds NW@10-15. I headed
out under the overcast in Minnesota, found a hole and climbed on top.
Perfect sailing until Pierre-SD. I was cruising at 9500', and started to
get banged around pretty good, so I slowed down from my 180mph to about 160.
It didn't help much. At this point the weather was hazy, but no cloud layer
so I headed on towards the Black Hills I now could see in the distance. As
the turbulence got worse, I decided to see if I could find a better
altitude, all to no avail. I was really getting the crap beat out of me, so
the next step was to start trying to find out what the winds were like in
Sturgis.
I dialed up Rapid City tower and just caught a message from a NWA DC-9 as
follows:
"RAP Tower, NWAxxx is going around, we had some pretty bad wind shear on
final...could you give us an current wind condition report when we turn base
again".
RAP Tower replied, and reported current winds a few minutes later.
"NWAxxx, winds variable 270-330o @35Gusting-42".
My heart skipped a beat and my jaw hit my lap! 35-42, could that be
right???!?!?! I mean the forecast had said 10-15! I decided to have a
short conversation with ATC in RAP to confirm my worst susupicions. They
confirmed that winds were terribly gusty and gave me the same report as the
NWA folks. I asked if they knew what Sturgis, Spearfish or any of the other
Northern Hills were, and they said it's pretty much blowing bad everywhere.
I decided to plow on (slowly) to Sturgis. Got to the airport flying
sideways, and entered the pattern the best I could. The windsock was
straight out stiff, and about 30o off the runway (29). I decided I had to
try so I lined up, no flaps, and flew right down to the runway. It wasn't
pretty, I've never moved a stick and rudder so violently from stop to stop
in my life, but only one small bounce and I was down. Here's the funny
thing. My heart was pounding so heard I just stopped as quickly as I could
and sat there for a couple of seconds. When I looked outside, I was
sitting smack on top of the numbers. I had to wipe the sweat off my palms,
and started the 4600' taxi to the ramp. Needless to say, I could raise the
tail just sitting still, and the turn off the runway was difficult but
doable at crawling speed. I parked on the ramp and couldn't get out of the
plane, because the plane wouldn't stay put (no parking-brake), so the line
guy put some bricks under the tires to hold the plane still. The G-Meter had
+4/-2 on it, and I hadn't done ANY aerobatics - just turbulence.
Now, you may think I'm completely crazy, but I filled up with gas and
decided to fly over to my dads place (2 minute flight) which was ultimately
my final destination. My takeoff roll was only a couple of plane lengths!
My dad's runway is the same direction as Sturgis, and actually a bit longer
so I headed out. It took 2 tries to put it on the ground there and once
again stop-to-stop on the stick/rudder, but all ended up OK with me
COMPLETELY WORE OUT. Speaking of my dads place, he just finished the
"modification" on the runway, which has resulted in 5,000'x75' of perfectly
smooth grass/gravel. It's minutes from Mt.Rushmore and Devils Tower, and
right against Bear Butte. We're planning on having a BBQ this summer so
keep your eyes open for a good chance for an unofficial fly-in! The runway
is so smooth, that during a calm day, even a greenhorn like me could
consistently stick some beautiful wheel landings.
Overall I'm now even more impressed with these planes than before. I came
home today in 2:15 (225-235mph over the ground,) and it was smooth as glass
at 10.5K', FYI the trip is 520 miles. I won't voluntarily EVER fly in 35mph
winds, but at least I know the plane will do it if it has to.
One more thing in this rambling note. While filling up with gas yesterday
in Sturgis (I was giving rides like mad), I taxied up to the pump and
behold-ANOTHER RV! It was a gorgeous RV4. Right away the guy walked up and
started talking to me. He new who I was, but I didn't know him. It was
Larry Vetterman, just out goofing around. After I filled up Larry wanted to
go over and buzz my dads place again (he hadn't seen the new runway). We
got to do some really good formation practice. Just an FYI---His plane is
every bit as good looking as his exhausts, the only difference to most, is
that he has Vortex Generators. More to come on that later.
Well, sorry for the lengthy note. I'm usually one to keep 'em short. This
was my first long flight in my newly minted RV6, so I had to brag! For
those still building, KEEP IT UP. It's Soooooooo worth it!
Happy Flying & Building,
Stein Bruch
RV6(My crosswind angel)60hrs, Minneapolis
Flying like mad!
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Cannot but agree that auto and aviation engines are generally designed for
somewhat different missions. There are exceptions; consider the engine on a
glider towplane compared to that of a long haul 18 wheeler truck and the
load cycle that each is exposed to, for instance.
However, I think the point could be made that the aviation engine world can
perhaps learn a few things from the auto world. (I agree that maybe Lyc. and
Cont. are trying and it's just aviation's rules and culture that's holding
them back).
I'm thinking of stuff like the carefully controlled combustion process that
let's some of the smaller compacts wring a lot of power from a small size &
weight package while dealing with all sorts of pollution control rules.
Think also of the durability of the average auto engine in the face of
often abusive handling (cold starts, no warm up, over-reving, etc.) and
often casual, minimal, or even nonexistent maintenance. At $20k a pop there
is an incentive to look after one's O-320 plus there are few convenient
stopping places if it quits at 2,000 ft over a great big forest, but what
would the failure rate of an O-320 be if it was treated the same as the
stereotypical soccer mom's van?
The reason to consider using automotive technology today is to take
advantage of the great cost savings implicit in the mass production of the
automotive world. There is no free lunch and a good reduction drive will
cost some money, but the cost advantage both in initial purchase and later
overhaul costs of an auto engine are considerable. There is, of course, a
cost versus time tradeoff to make that will be different for different
folks.
Some missions, such as glider tow plane operators who are fed up with
replacing Lyc. cylinders that have been shock cooled too often, can see an
operational advantage in water cooling, etc. as well.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A (with a Lyc. - no time to deal with an auto conversion this time
around)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Well,
>
> The only real difference between auto vs. aviation engines is their
> respective missions. One is designed to accelerate and decelerate a lot,
to
> not run at full power continously and to deliver reasonable power over its
> entire RPM range which can be from 600-6000 RPM commonly, the other is
> designed to stay at a constant power/RPM setting, to deliver most of its
> power between 2000-2700 RPM, and run at full power until it wears out.
>
> And finally one is designed to spin a nice round symetrical weight, where
> the other is designed to spin a god awful set of paddles that are trying
to
> rip its face off in five different ways, at all times. ;{)
>
> So, trying to use one for the other, either way, is kinda silly, expensive
> and can be risky if not done correctly, not that there really is a correct
> way to do this. (I know I'm gonna get flammed here)
>
> Its just that it makes no sense to me to redesign something to an
> application that no part in it was ever designed for, when there is
already
> something that is designed for this. (You will not save one dime doing
this,
> but you might have some fun if you are into that much work.)
>
> I think we will get a lot further by using our efforts at improving the
> thing that was designed for this application, rather than redesigning
> something that wasn't meant for this application.
>
> Which, by the way, is what the engine manufacturers are doing via the
> IOF-360 lyc and the IOF-240 Cont. being produced or modified by TCM
> Aerosance. TexLyc is also working on their own version of this, but they
> both need to get a clue on costs. The TCM FADEC costs as much as the
engine
> does. I am in the middle of installing one and its a nice product if it
runs
> well, but damm, the cost is unbelieveable.
>
> The real issue about these powerplant costs are mass production....
>
> So next time you order an aircraft engine, order twenty of them.... ;{)
>
>
Message 40
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Subject: | Paint and filling tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
I am building an 8A and I have seen some nice paint jobs; and some not so nice.
My question is about filling the tips on the ennpenage. What is a good filler
to blend the fiberglass tips into the aluminum? A lot of planes have very obvious
cracks in the paint after shrinkage. How do I avoid these? Some planes have
very smooth transitions with no sign of these cracks. I can only guess that
the preparation and quality of the filler is the reason for the best results.
Any recomendations will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jerry Doyal
jdoyal@sport.rr.com
Message 41
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Subject: | Freebies Gone!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
Thanks to the quick respondents to taking these flight suits off my
hands.....if I come across anymore I'll post them to the list....
Cheers....
Kurt Klewin, OKC, OK
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 42
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|
21: 33:01 PST
--> RV-List message posted by: Reinback <reinback@yahoo.com>
Dave ,
Im in the same boat, Ive asked Aerocomposites
several times same questions you have specifically
weight of the entire propeller and also spinner kit
details (is it just raw materials or a finished
spinner?) and other detailed questions and have
gotten had no response.
And I asked for costumers I could speak to, preferably
with RVs again no response. Ive asked this
information of other propeller companies and I did get
answers and customer referrals.
I also wanted to ask Aerocomposites why the Lancair
Legacy (that they use to quote performance numbers for
their 3 blade prop) put the 3 blade Hartzell propeller
back on to fly in the Reno race rather than going with
the Aerocomposites prop. If the Aerocomposites prop
really had the claimed performance increase, wouldnt
they have kept it on for the race?
Makes a guy wonder ?
Roger
RV-7
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
Message 43
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Subject: | Re: Paint and filling tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
There are lots of autobody fillers out there to suit different applications.
I used some stuff called "Evercoat" in a purple tin that cured very quickly
and sanded nicely however it is a bit brittle for some locations where some
flex is needed. Epoxy with microballons works not badly in these locations.
A visit to your local auto body supply place should fix you up with
something suitable.
Jim Oke
YWG
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Paint and filling tips
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
>
> I am building an 8A and I have seen some nice paint jobs; and some not so
nice. My question is about filling the tips on the ennpenage. What is a good
filler to blend the fiberglass tips into the aluminum? A lot of planes have
very obvious cracks in the paint after shrinkage. How do I avoid these? Some
planes have very smooth transitions with no sign of these cracks. I can only
guess that the preparation and quality of the filler is the reason for the
best results. Any recomendations will be appreciated!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jerry Doyal
>
> jdoyal@sport.rr.com
>
>
Message 44
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21: 48:40 PST
--> RV-List message posted by: Reinback <reinback@yahoo.com>
Randy
Im interested in the AC prop. You mention several
times the AC prop has the best performance. Please
help me because I have not seen or heard of a AC prop
on an RV as of yet. The only performance numbers I
have seen is the 3 blade AC on the Lancair with a
Continental 550.
Another question I have is you mention AC is using
the McCauly 220 hub. The last time a spoke with them
they said they where making there own hub and not
using the McCauly hub?
I am still pondering about 2 vs 3blade props. I had a
good buddy some 20yrs ago who had several Cessna 185s
some with 2 blade and some with 3 blade props. I asked
him what performance difference there was. He said the
larger diameter 2-blade prop climbed slightly better
but the 3-blade was slightly faster than the 2-blade
prop. He also said it took someone with a lot of time
in the airplane the really notice any of these
differences at all. The only thing I can say for
myself after riding in my friends 185s is that the
three bladed prop was incredibly smooth and quiet
compared to the 2-bladed 185 , it was like a
completely different airplane with the 3 blade prop.
Roger
RV-7
http://mailplus.yahoo.com
Message 45
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Subject: | Re: Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Automotive engines are not designed to put out high HP for long periods of
> time as are aircraft engines.
You should have a look at the endurance tests the auto industry does and
compare them to aircraft certification tests. The auto industry tests are much
more rigorous.
Tedd
Message 46
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Can anyone tell me how many thou's a #16 drill is?
#11?
I'm putting the plastic knob on my canopy latching mechanism.
Thanks,
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive
Message 47
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Subject: | New, NEW List Digest Format... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Okay, so I woke up this morning to an email box full of hate-mail about the
new List Digest format. I thought it was cool, but I guess not... Still,
it seemed like too much code to just throw out, so I've modified things a
little and I'm hoping everyone will be happy with the new, NEW
arrangement. Here's how it works now:
o The HTML and TXT enclosures aren't sent in the Digest any longer.
o URL Links to the HTML and TEXT versions of the day's Digests
will be found at the top of the digest email.
o The new Digest Index will be found at the top of the digest email
following the URL Links.
o The full digest text will then be found in the email as before.
o All of the previous Digests will now be available on line. The
URL for the main digest page is:
http://www.matronics.com/digest
From here, you can drill into the specific List Digest of interest.
o Both the HTML and TXT versions of the Digests can be found here.
o The List Message Trailer will contain a Link directly to the given
o Right now there's only one Digest shown, but each day there will
be another. They will be sorted with the newest at the top.
Left-hand column is the HTML version, right-hand column the TXT
version.
A couple people also complained that some messages in the HTML version were
just one long line that went off to the right forever and they hated
that. Come to think of it, this is also an issue in the Search Engine,
List Browser, and Archive Browser. Some email programs don't included hard
Returns at regular intervals and that's what causes this. I wrote a
program tonight that will automatically chop these long lines into 78
characters or less and wrap the rest of the line. After tonight's Archive
transfer, all of the Searching and Browsing tools shouldn't have the
problem any longer either. Woo hoo!
So, back to the new Digest format. What people are going to see in the
new, NEW Digest is a bit of verbiage at the top of the email describing the
URL links to the HTML and TXT on-line versions, followed by the Links,
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Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: BrownTool@aol.com
In a message dated 12/2/2002 12:43:59 AM Central Standard Time,
nhunger@sprint.ca writes:
> Can anyone tell me how many thou's a #16 drill is?
>
> #11?
>
>
#16 - .1770
#11 - .1910
Michael Brown
Brown Aviation Tool Supply Co.
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