Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:58 AM - Targa Strip (Fred Stucklen)
2. 02:11 AM - Re: Cabin Heat (Norman)
3. 06:00 AM - Compass (GRENIER@aol.com)
4. 06:15 AM - Re: Avery tach drive cover (Larry Bowen)
5. 06:54 AM - Re: Compass (Larry Bowen)
6. 07:12 AM - How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (Joe & Jan Connell)
7. 08:54 AM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft (kempthornes)
8. 09:24 AM - G S T IN cANADA (GEORGE INMAN)
9. 11:15 AM - Re: alternative engines and Van's opinion (apology) (Charlie and Tupper England)
10. 11:54 AM - Modeling Clay (Ernest Kells)
11. 12:47 PM - Re: Modeling Clay (Knicholas2@aol.com)
12. 12:48 PM - camshaft grinder (Jim Jewell)
13. 01:02 PM - Priming (Dr. Leathers)
14. 01:25 PM - Re: Modeling Clay (barry pote)
15. 01:58 PM - Re: Modeling Clay (Albert Gardner)
16. 02:33 PM - Re: Modeling Clay (KostaLewis)
17. 03:22 PM - Re: Priming (Norman)
18. 03:24 PM - Alternative Powerplants et.al. (Jim Duckett)
19. 04:03 PM - Re: Alternative Powerplants et.al. (JRWillJR@aol.com)
20. 04:19 PM - Re: Alternative Powerplants et.al. (Rob Prior)
21. 05:09 PM - Re:Modeling clay (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
22. 05:58 PM - Re: Re:Modeling clay (Phil)
23. 07:12 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Wool (Lenleg@aol.com)
24. 07:27 PM - Re: Re: Stainless Steel Wool (Jim Jewell)
25. 07:33 PM - Re: Re: Stainless Steel Wool (Chris)
26. 08:01 PM - RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's (Kyle Boatright)
27. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: Stainless Steel Wool (Phil)
28. 10:50 PM - Re: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) (Gary)
29. 10:53 PM - Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) (Gary)
30. 11:18 PM - Alternative engines (perfeng@3rivers.net)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Norman,
I also needed the clips to hold the canopy bubble in place while fiber glassing
the front. Used the LP4-3 pop rivets with no cracking.
I also put in the Targa strip with Velcro. I used contact cement on my first
RV-6A, but was not happy with the long term results. The contact cement would
not hold up and over time would come apart from the metal. So on the new RV-6A
I'm building, I'm planning on holding the Velcro in place with a metal strip
and pop rivets. The Velcro will be help in place on the under side of the instrument
panel in the same manner......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A
" The last 10% of building takes 90% of the total building time!"
Time: 08:09:23 PM PST US
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: Targa Strip
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Re - Tip Up canopy Targa Strip I'm looking for some opinions on any
of the
ways I plan on finishing my canopy.
I am almost ready to attach my canopy bubble to the frame. I found I needed
four
tabs accros the front to hold it down evenly. I made the tabs out of scrap
040
and will hold each one down with two LP4-3 pop rivets. Any one see any problems
with that plan?
I do not have the front holes drilled in the Plexi on the side frames. The
Plexi
seems to not have any bulging qualities there so I want to drill the last
hole
on each side. Problem is I've read too many times where that's the spot that
RV6 builders have had their canopies crack. What shound I do? Mine look like
they won't be making the Plexi change at all.
And do I make these holes 3/16 after countersinking? So big for movement?
Targa Strip - to do or not to do. I've decided to do one for two reasons.
First,
they have to be better at keeping the rain out when the aircraft is parked
outside
in the rain. I live in Vancouver so that one is a no brainer. Second, I'm
assuming that they can be sealed better in flight as well.
Who has links on pictures to some examples? I am currious as to how thick
they
end up and how they end at the lower edges.
I am going to try an use the window as a mold by taping it up with masking
tape,
liberal mold release agent, then I'll do 3 or 4 layers of staggered cloth.
I
will peel it off for edge finishing, then install onto freshly roughed up
plexi.
I will epoxy it down and use every second hole in the canopy frame. I plan
on using the soft alum 1/8 canopy rivets along the rear edge of the main
canopy
Plexi. I'll leave out every second one to be done with the targa strip.
The front fiberglass fairing - did most guys do this right on the Plexi without
the mold release? or is this one done as a separate piece too?
HELP!
I need direction!
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> I fly in cold climate here in Minnesota so I have two heat valves on the
firewall with the idea of having two heat muffs (Rick Robbins on Vetterman
crossover for an RV6). I have seen the air pick up in two differant
locations... (1) on the forward baffles just inside the cowling air intake
scoops ahead of the engine cylinders and (2) on the aft baffle above the
engine accessory case and then via scat tubing to the muffs. My question
is which location produces the best heat and performance for the cockpit?
Pros and cons appreciated especially from other cold climate flyers.
Dick, looking for more heat? Try heating the seats. Heated pads can be
bought that will go under your seat covers and warm you up. I've seen cheapo
seat covers at Canadian Tire for $80 (Can) with electric heat. They plugged
into the cig lighter. They would sell millions of these things if they would
hit the right advertising media.
My aircraft has quality heated seat pads built into the Oregon Aero seats. I
got them at a seat upholstery place but after the fact I discovered they
were easy to find on the internet.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: GRENIER@aol.com
A few weeks ago someone posted a web reference for an electronic flux gate
compass. I thought I saved the reference, but now I can't find it. Does
anyone remember what it is? Thanks
Ray Grenier
RV-4
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Avery tach drive cover |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Mine has a hole for safety wire..........
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
> Sent: Friday, December 06, 2002 11:06 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Avery tach drive cover
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> No gasket is apparently needed. My cover bailed out
> somewhere, and nothing seems to be leaking. I now wonder
> just what the cover is supposed to do... Alex Peterson Maple
> Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 236 hours, last 100 or so without a
> tach cover... www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> > Guys,
> >
> > I just got the Avery Tools' tach drive cover since I've got
> > dual Lightspeeds and get my RPM sensing directly from the
> > ignition units. The cover doesn't have any kind of gasket
> > with it....does anyone know if I should make one or is there
> > no significant oil present at the tach drive opening?
> >
> > Generally I've had outstanding quality and service from Avery
> > but if I had to do it over, I'd probly go to the hardware
> > store and make my own tach drive cover....it doesn't look
> > like it's worth $7.50 to me...
>
>
> ===========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
http://www.nisongermarine.com/3-gcid2.html
The site appears to be down though....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> GRENIER@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 8:59 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Compass
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: GRENIER@aol.com
>
> A few weeks ago someone posted a web reference for an
> electronic flux gate
> compass. I thought I saved the reference, but now I can't
> find it. Does
> anyone remember what it is? Thanks
>
> Ray Grenier
> RV-4
>
>
> ===========
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Hi,
I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
lace it together and let it dangle?
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A N95JJ
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft |
fuselage?
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:10 AM 12/7/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
>I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
>are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
>through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
>you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
>lace it together and let it dangle?
Yes.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
If you are a non-resident,and the plane will be
exported
without being registerd in Canada.You may be able
to get a rebate.
See
http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/tax/nonresidents/visitors/vrpqa-e.html#P106_2743
> Hi Terence:
> This is Tom Brandon back with you, the American building an RV7A on
> Vancouver Island. I just found out some bad news today. It seems I'm going
> to have to pay the Canadian Government $6,000 or $7,000 in taxes for the
> privilege of building up here. I'm going to have to pay PST & GST on the
kit
> I import. Are any of of your members tax lawyers? Can you give us any
> advice? Darren & I are trying to find out if it's a mistake, but so far,
no
> luck.
> Thanks
> Tom Brandon
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@attcanada.ca
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: alternative engines and Van's opinion (apology) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
snips
>
> 'You need to get out more'
>
snips
It seems I was suffering from a case of 'foot in mouth' with an earlier post.
I'm slowly learning that kidding around through email just doesn't work that
well. I would hate to cause any hard feelings or shift the focus of a useful
discussion to other areas.
I am sorry for causing any problems.
I think that the discussions about alternative engines are productive and I hope
to continue learning.
Charlie
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
First question: I have decided to make my own intersection fairings.
Instead of the oil-based modeling clay mentioned by Vans and the archives
for the molds, has anyone tried the normal (water-based) modeling clay that
is readily available - and cheap? First, I am considering mixing a
food-grade oil into the clay, replacing the water - stirring well in small
batches for each fairing. Second, I am considering laying up the
water-based clay, then rubbing a coating of oil on the surface for no
sticking. Would one of these methods work?? Working with fiber-glass is a
little bit of hell on Earth.
Second question: I would like to repair a few riveting dings. Would resin
mixed with flox - or milled fiber work after really roughing up the skin? I
understand that it would dry very hard. Although sanding may be really
tough, I only have very few of these so this wouldn't be a problem. It
would be great to hide these very few errors with something that won't
shrink, crack, fall off, etc. Thanks.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Modeling Clay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I tried using the oil based clay for my fairings and it is awful! I was able
to lay up the glass & resin but I still can't get all the clay out! I have
picked, chipped and used damn near every solvent that I have in the shop and
nothing seems to dissolve the stuff! If I were to do it again, I will try
good ol' play-doe" or another water soluble clay.
Just my .02.
Kim Nicholas
RV9A hangin' the engine this week....
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | camshaft grinder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I sent in an email earlier. In its content I referred to a company called Shadblt
cams in Vancouver BC. In that email I spelled Shadbolt with two Ds. I thought
I had better correct that and provide a more usefull means of contact should
the need arise
http://www.shadboltcams.com/main.html
Should you have questions regarding camshaft technology Automotive, Marine, Industrial,
or Aircraft etc. This is one place that should be on your list of people
and places to research.
Aside from being a customer and a long and enduring friendship with Barry the owner
I have no business associations with Shadbolt cams
Jim in Kelowna
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
I noticed that the Van's prototype for the RV-10 has had no priming or other corrosion
treatment for the internal structures such as bulkheads etc. Do they dip
the entire thing after the fact, or what? What about the mated surfaces?
DOC
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Modeling Clay |
--> RV-List message posted by: barry pote <barrypote@comcast.net>
The clay to use, according to Sam James of Fiberglass 101 Video fame, is
PLASTOLINE. Buy in 1 pound bars. keep in can to keep from drying out.
Heat with a hair dryer to make it pliable. Roll it in small diameter
rolls. Dampen to smooth.
Barry Pote RV9a
> I tried using the oil based clay for my fairings and it is awful! I was able
> to lay up the glass & resin but I still can't get all the clay out! I have
> picked, chipped and used damn near every solvent that I have in the shop and
> nothing seems to dissolve the stuff! If I were to do it again, I will try
> good ol' play-doe" or another water soluble clay.
>
> Just my .02.
>
> Kim Nicholas
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Modeling Clay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <albert.gardner@worldnet.att.net>
Modeling clay worked very well for me. Lay peep ply over the clay before you
start laying up the cloth to prevent clay from sticking to you fairing.
Albert Gardner, Yuma, AZ
RV-9A: N872RV
Working on panel
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "KostaLewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>First question: I have decided to make my own intersection fairings.
>Instead of the oil-based modeling clay mentioned by Vans and the
archives
>for the molds, has anyone tried the normal (water-based) modeling clay
that
>is readily available - and cheap.....
I used the oil-based. You don't have to pack just clay in the area to be
faired. I filled the rear tail fairing area with chunks of Styrofoam,
then filled in the important area with clay. Use Glad Wrap between the
clay and your airplane/foam. After putting a releasing agent on the clay
to keep it from sticking, use PeelPly or Dacron fabric against the clay.
Then, the oil-based clay comes off both the fairing and the airplane
easily. I'm not sure if you would be hacking away at the water-based
stuff to get it out after it dried out, oil mixed in or not. Sounds like
a mess, to me. It doesn't take that much oil-based and it is also pretty
cheap.
I have tools I use on the pottery wheel to carve and shape the clay,
but, while handy, you don't need them.
And man, does it make a tight-fitting fairing.
IMHO
Michael
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> I noticed that the Van's prototype for the RV-10 has had no priming or
other corrosion treatment for the internal structures such as bulkheads etc.
Do they dip the entire thing after the fact, or what? What about the mated
surfaces?
Prototypes are traditionally done as light and simple as possible. The
designer wants the very lightest structure possible for the first prototype
will have many people watching the performance numbers. He also wants to
build it as fast as possible. The plant manager wants the prototype to cost
as little as possible in labour hours, supplies used, and shop real estate
used because prototypes do not generate revenue.
Just guessing....after all it's a list of amaters experimenting.
If you want the real skinny then post your question to
info@vansaircraft.com
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternative Powerplants et.al. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Hi Guys,
Well I've been quietly reading along for the past few days and figured
I might as well jump into this too. Okay, here's the credentials for
what their worth... I've been re-engineering, modifying and building
engines for automotive and marine use for over 30 years. You can also
count the slug of Vee Dubs we built to spin fans too. I have numerous
certificates, awards, trophies and the like that say I can turn a wrench
and read a micrometer (even though that proves nothing).
I don't claim to have all the knowledge or near the expertise to call
myself an EXPERT but, I do have a little background lets say.
I'm like a lot of folks that are looking at the price, the technology,
and the availibility of parts and components. Here's what I see as some
of the elements that are different between the two "Types".
First, lets keep in mind that I'm talking Non-Certified applications
here...
Maybe it shouldn't be first but, cost is a major factor with a lots of
folks. Most Auto conversions run around $40.00 per HP, where Lyc's run
right at $180.00 (both complete from mounts to prop hub) or in other
words looking at 200 HP, $8,000 compared to $36,000. Okay, I know a lot
of people do not have the expertise, the suppliers, or the facilities to
do most if not all the conversion work themselves so, the $40.00 per hp
doesn't reflect that. I'm just using my situation as an example. What
my approximate cost to have either type hanging on the mounts ready for
the prop.
As I look at this, I also see that there is a myriad of component and
part options and variances I can utilize to "rework" the auto engine to
exceed my requirements. Block, crank, rods, pistons, valves and
valvetrain, heads, induction, ignition... With the "Lyc" engine well,
you get what you get. Sure there are a few options but, very few.
As with anything concerning aircraft, weight is the king. Lighter
parts than O.E.M. will cost you bucks. It holds true in both type
engines. Lyc's are already about as light as the loads and harmonics
will allow. The auto type has to be modified to reduce the weight and
still meet the demands put on it. Again it can be done, and at well
below the Lyc's cost per hp.
The basic cost IS regulated by demand. 800,000 auto engines to maybe
10,000 aircraft, which costs less to produce per unit? 30+ Grand for a
200 HP lycoming? What am I after here the power or the engine type?
There was a good arguement for "designed use" on here and yes, I do
agree to a point. Crate to crate comparison the auto is not airworthy
in the same manner that a Lyc would not perform in an automotive
application without some modification but, the point is it can be
reasonably done.
I also shudder when I read about people that go out to a wrecking
yard, buy an engine, hang it and start flying. Maybe they might change
the oil. These folks are everywhere in all powered venues. These are
the same folks that will buy Grade II bolts by the pound and put their
ship together. Geez! You can't regulate stupidity!
Bottom line, both are good designs and produce power. The question is
what is your priority? Mine is cost, design options, and reliable
power. Sure I'd buy a new Lycoming if it was complete and ready to turn
the prop for say @$15 K but it ain't gonna happen! I can do my whole
panel for with the savings and still meet my powerplant perameters...IMHO
Jim Duckett, 4.3L RV-7A
Do Not Archive!
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Powerplants et.al. |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
In a message dated 12/7/2002 5:25:30 PM Central Standard Time,
perfeng@3rivers.net writes:
> "words looking at 200 HP, $8,000 compared to $36,000."
For 36,000 dollars you can buy one hell of an airplane engine or even
two. Fact is
> you can find Lycomings for 15,000 dollars or less but brand new ECi and
> Superior engines professionally assembled for a little over 20,000 dollars.
> You do not have to spend 36,000 dollars to get an "aviation type" engine of
> 180-200 horses. I may eat my words someday and I will gladly do it and bow
> down before thee but I suspect when the pedal hits the metal or should I
> say the throttle slaps the stop my XP360 will make that Chevy V6 suck it's
> exhaust. Does anyone know where I can get that sticker of a bratty kid
> doing something nasty to a Chevy. Hey, just kidding with you guys cuz right
> now I am up to my armpits in sheet metal and no where near finished but it
> is fun to do some ribbing. It is amazing to see people spend 50,000
> dollars for a Suburban or a boat and do it without even blinking an eye but
> then balk at paying for an engine that is going to carry them and their
> friends and loved ones thousands of feet into the air not to mention all
> the time you spend building the thing for it all to be betted on the same
> company that built the Vega, the Corvair, diesel converted gasoline
> engines, the Pontiac Aztec, the Chevette. Not a Bowtie sorta guy, I am
> prejudiced, admit it and apologize in advance for being non PC. Do Not
> Archive. JR, A&P
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Powerplants et.al. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Jim Duckett wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
> Maybe it shouldn't be first but, cost is a major factor with a lots of
> folks. Most Auto conversions run around $40.00 per HP, where Lyc's run
> right at $180.00 (both complete from mounts to prop hub) or in other
> words looking at 200 HP, $8,000 compared to $36,000. Okay, I know a lot
> of people do not have the expertise, the suppliers, or the facilities to
> do most if not all the conversion work themselves so, the $40.00 per hp
> doesn't reflect that. I'm just using my situation as an example. What
> my approximate cost to have either type hanging on the mounts ready for
> the prop.
I'd like to see some breakdown of the $8000 for an automotive "mount to
hub" installation, as that sounds exceedingly cheap. I'd also like to
see those numbers side-by-side with your breakdown for a "$36k, 200hp
Lycoming", as that number seems high to me. Not knowing any better, i'd
be guessing that you're comparing a homegrown automotive conversion to a
factory-new Lycoming.
Let's also not forget that *on average*, you would expect a given
Lycoming installation to stay on an aircraft, trouble-free, for 2000
hours. So far, nobody on this list has shown that a comparably powered
automotive conversion has done that (800 hours on a rotary-conversion is
the best i've seen yet). Furthermore, frequently a 2000 hour, well
maintained Lycoming can be overhauled for less than half the cost of a
new engine, and re-installed for another 2000 trouble-free hours. Can
the same be said for an automotive conversion, or should we expect to
replace the engine with a new one when it's time is up?
Automotive conversions all seem to either require lots of maintenance,
or prompt people to perform unscheduled maintenance in an attempt to
tinker with them somehow. If they *on average* worked that well, why
would people bother tinkering with them? Usually because of one of two
things: they want the engine to produce more power or weigh less. In
either case, it suggests that the engine didn't meet the requirements of
it's mission when it was installed.
I'm not against automotive conversions. What I want is lowest total
cost of ownership for my aircraft. Right now all of the anecdotal
evidence still points to Lycomings being better in the long run, with
rotary conversions a not so far away second. A few years from now when
I get to the engine-installation stage maybe the situation will be
different. If it's cheaper for a conversion, i'll go that route.
-RB4
RV7 Empennage
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Modeling clay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I got oil based modeling clay from Wal-Mart. Yuo could cover it with Saran
Wrap before adding cloth & epoxy.
I wrapped the gear legs with Saran Wrap before glasing the gear leg
fairings in place & it popped right off.
My .02c worth.
do not archive
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Modeling clay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> I got oil based modeling clay from Wal-Mart. Yuo could cover it with Saran
> Wrap before adding cloth & epoxy.
> I wrapped the gear legs with Saran Wrap before glasing the gear leg
> fairings in place & it popped right off.
> My .02c worth.
> do not archive
>
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
>
do not archive...I use oil based clay all the time.
Never a problem. I put masking tape down first, then the clay in any shape I
want, then I cover it with masking tape which also acts as the release.
Phil
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Stainless Steel Wool |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
List:
Does anyone know where I can find "stainless" steel wool. I would like to
use it in the heat muff and so far have not been able to locate any.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
20 hours !!
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Stainless Steel Wool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Len,
The steel wool you refer to is actually stainless steel pot scrubbers. They
can be found in hardware stores, the dollar store or your local food market.
They are much coarser than steel wool which will allow air flow at a better
rate. In theory at least.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Stainless Steel Wool
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> List:
>
> Does anyone know where I can find "stainless" steel wool. I would like to
> use it in the heat muff and so far have not been able to locate any.
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 20 hours !!
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Stainless Steel Wool |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
Lenleg@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> List:
>
> Does anyone know where I can find "stainless" steel wool. I would like to
> use it in the heat muff and so far have not been able to locate any.
http://www.mcmaster.com They have everything :) well almost anyway
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Anyone with an RV-6 with the sliding canopy is aware of the air leaks that occur
between the side skirts and the fuselage. Last night, in an inspired moment,
I came up with a solution that worked very well in 8 (yep 8!) airborne hours
today, with most of my flying in sub-zero (F) conditions...
I had some insulation left from a non-aviation project. This material is extruded
foam pipe insulation, with a 3/4" internal diameter and probably 1/2" wall
thickness. I took a piece of it and split it in half lengthwise. Once the canopy
is closed, the semicircular foam strip will slide right down into the gap
between the side skirts and the slider tracks, and will completely seal the
openings. In flight, the suction in that location will hold the seals firmly
in place, although they can be removed fairly easily.
Even if one was to forget to remove the seals before opening the canopy, the foam
is so soft it just collapses and doesn't impede the sliding mechanism at all.
I did some in flight testing with and without the seals and the difference was
very noticeable.
Despite the extremely cold outside air temps between 7 and 10k feet today, we had
to keep the heater turned down to its minimum setting so the heat wouldn't
run us out of the cockpit. Previously, the cold breezes inside the cockpit made
it a much less comfortable environment.
By the way, it was sub-20F when I started the airplane this morning. It cranked
right off. I had a $12 heating pad on the battery, two blankets over the cowl,
and a couple of trouble lights inside the cowl.
It was even colder when I got to Martinsburg WV 3 hours later. They had about
6" of snow on the ground. En-route, I was pleasantly surprised that all of the
airports on our route of flight (Atlanta-Martinsburg, staying on the East side
of the Appalachian Mts.) had been cleared of snow.
Kyle Boatright
160 hp RV-6
Master of cold weather op's...
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Stainless Steel Wool |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil <sisson@mcleodusa.net>
Try scouring pads at Wal-mart. There are certain types of pots and pan cleaners
that are SS...
Chris wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
>
> Lenleg@aol.com wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
> >
> > List:
> >
> > Does anyone know where I can find "stainless" steel wool. I would like to
> > use it in the heat muff and so far have not been able to locate any.
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com They have everything :) well almost anyway
>
> --
> Chris Woodhouse
> 3147 SW 127th St.
> Oklahoma City, OK 73170
> 405-691-5206 (home)
> chrisw@programmer.net
> N35 20.492'
> W97 34.342'
>
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Norman...........some people with Tip-ups experience plexi cracks at the lower
rear corners of the canopy. The reason is that the canopy twists slightly when
you close it from one side, and it hits the roll bar. The "21 years of the
RVator" book shows one solution: guides to guide the steel latch straight into
the slots. These prevent the plexi from contacting the roll bar.
I made a modified version of these out of some 1/4 inch thick UHMW plastic angle.
I can send pictures off list if you like.
On the front fairing to the windshield: I don't know of anyone who has made the
fairing separate from the windshield. Far as I know, everyone lays it up right
on the plexi, and bonds it to the windshield. Rough up the 'glass first so
it will stick.
The pop riveted tabs are a good idea. I had four of them, and they are imbedded
in the fairing. I applied a layer of flox to cover them, then did the glass
layers.
I didn't do a Targa strip.
I'm not sure what you mean by the 3/16 holes........I don't have any holes that
big in mine.
Gary -9A tipper
Time: 08:09:23 PM PST US
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Targa Strip
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Re - Tip Up canopy Targa Strip I'm looking for some opinions on any of the
ways I plan on finishing my canopy.
I am almost ready to attach my canopy bubble to the frame. I found I needed four
tabs accros the front to hold it down evenly. I made the tabs out of scrap 040
and will hold each one down with two LP4-3 pop rivets. Any one see any problems
with that plan?
I do not have the front holes drilled in the Plexi on the side frames. The Plexi
seems to not have any bulging qualities there so I want to drill the last hole
on each side. Problem is I've read too many times where that's the spot that
RV6 builders have had their canopies crack. What shound I do? Mine look like
they won't be making the Plexi change at all.
And do I make these holes 3/16 after countersinking? So big for movement?
Targa Strip - to do or not to do. I've decided to do one for two reasons. First,
they have to be better at keeping the rain out when the aircraft is parked outside
in the rain. I live in Vancouver so that one is a no brainer. Second, I'm
assuming that they can be sealed better in flight as well.
Who has links on pictures to some examples? I am currious as to how thick they
end up and how they end at the lower edges.
I am going to try an use the window as a mold by taping it up with masking tape,
liberal mold release agent, then I'll do 3 or 4 layers of staggered cloth. I
will peel it off for edge finishing, then install onto freshly roughed up plexi.
I will epoxy it down and use every second hole in the canopy frame. I plan
on using the soft alum 1/8 canopy rivets along the rear edge of the main canopy
Plexi. I'll leave out every second one to be done with the targa strip.
The front fiberglass fairing - did most guys do this right on the Plexi without
the mold release? or is this one done as a separate piece too?
HELP!
I need direction!
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
---
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
Norman,
PS............. I wouldn't use masking tape for mold release. The paper agsorbs
the resin and sticks. Use duct tape or clear package sealing tape.......or
even Saran Wrap.
Gary
I am going to try an use the window as a mold by taping it up with masking tape,
liberal mold release agent, then I'll do 3 or 4 layers of staggered cloth. I
................
HELP!
I need direction!
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
---
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternative engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: perfeng@3rivers.net
Hey JR,
I do agree with you when you look at the price of a Superior and a few of the
others but, I was going with the prices I've seen from Lycoming. I haven't
hung the chevy on the ship yet and with some of the the new "aftermarket
Lycoming" suppliers starting to kick butt in the suggested price department...I
may not. Either way I will still try to develop it.
If it wasn't for the pressure from those of us that are trying to find
a "reasonable alternative" to the gawd awful prices...(Yes, I have a problem
with a stock 200 HP engine costing as much as a 700HP race engine)then there
would be no competition and hence, what we were faced with in the past...pay
their price at any cost!
As far as some of the vehicles you mentioned well, it's too bad that the OEM's
use consumers to evaluate test bed vehicles. Good suspension bad engines and
vice versa...go figure.
By the way...what was the cert number and engine type used on the first engine
powered experimental aircraft...? Sorry! Couldn't resist.
Jim Duckett, RV-7A
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|