Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:34 AM - Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow (Tim Lewis)
2. 03:17 AM - Re: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow (Jim Sears)
3. 03:25 AM - Re: Re:Priming (Jim Sears)
4. 04:34 AM - Re: baggage floor and platenuts (Mark Phillips)
5. 05:48 AM - N-345SL makes first flight (Larry Hawkins)
6. 05:52 AM - Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) (Charlie Kuss)
7. 06:03 AM - Re: Modeling Clay (Larry Hawkins)
8. 06:06 AM - Re: N-345SL makes first flight (Lenleg@aol.com)
9. 06:09 AM - Re: Re:Priming (Ernest Kells)
10. 06:18 AM - Re: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow (Mark Phillips)
11. 06:33 AM - Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) (Tedd McHenry)
12. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: Rockets vs Van's (Bob Japundza)
13. 06:54 AM - Fw: N-345SL makes first flight (C. Rabaut)
14. 07:07 AM - Re: N-345SL makes first flight (Charles Rowbotham)
15. 07:24 AM - Re: Rapco Vac Pump Mount questions (Richard Dudley)
16. 07:28 AM - Re:Water+Autogas=ice=no Gas (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
17. 07:48 AM - Re: (apology) (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
18. 07:49 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Mike Robertson)
19. 08:17 AM - Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
20. 08:26 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Tracy Crook)
21. 08:43 AM - Electric Constant Speed Propeller (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
22. 08:52 AM - countersinking spar on RV7 wings (Gordon Lomoth)
23. 08:58 AM - width of fuselage (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
24. 09:05 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Larry Hawkins)
25. 09:32 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Mike Robertson)
26. 09:45 AM - Re: width of fuselage (Dan Checkoway)
27. 09:55 AM - weight of Hooker Harnesses (Jim Truitt)
28. 10:23 AM - Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Mark Phillips)
29. 10:42 AM - Re: Engines...somewhat long! (Rob Prior)
30. 10:50 AM - Re: width of fuselage (Mark Phillips)
31. 11:07 AM - Re: width of fuselage (Dan Checkoway)
32. 11:18 AM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Pete Bodie)
33. 11:30 AM - Re: N-345SL makes first flight (Francis Malczynski)
34. 12:03 PM - Re: countersinking spar on RV7 wings (HCRV6@aol.com)
35. 12:48 PM - Re: countersinking spar on RV7 wings (Stephen Johnson)
36. 01:53 PM - canopy frame (Bert Forero)
37. 02:25 PM - Re: Re:Priming (Dave Bristol)
38. 02:49 PM - Re: canopy frame (Ralph E. Capen)
39. 03:18 PM - Princeton capacitive fuel level probes (czechsix@juno.com)
40. 04:49 PM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (William Davis)
41. 05:15 PM - Re: canopy frame (Jim Jewell)
42. 05:22 PM - Re: RV6 S-cowl Dave Ford (Dick DeCramer)
43. 05:38 PM - Re: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes (Larry Bowen)
44. 08:12 PM - Re: canopy frame (Randall Henderson)
45. 08:27 PM - Re: Single Strobe Power Supply Source? (Norman)
46. 09:16 PM - Contact Cement (Norman)
47. 09:18 PM - Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck (Stephen Johnson)
48. 09:33 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (Norman)
49. 09:40 PM - Re: Re: Single strobe power supply (DvdBock@aol.com)
50. 10:31 PM - Re: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's (Norman)
51. 10:34 PM - Re: Re: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) (Norman)
52. 10:43 PM - Re: baggage floor and platenuts (Norman)
53. 11:45 PM - Cockpit Floor Details (Jim Oke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
Listers,
I've been using 93 octane auto gas on one tank of my RV-6A for over
a year. For the first time, last week, I had a problem with the auto gas.
- I'd noticed on the last several tanks that after I poured the autogas
into the tank (using that AC$ filter that's supposed to trap water) that I
was getting about 1/4" of water in the fuel sampler when I sumped the
auto gas tank. (I check each batch of auto gas to ensure it contains
no alcohol, using the EAA test).
- On a flight to Chicago, 10-15 degrees F @ 8000', I started loosing
power. Carb heat did no good, so "nearest/nearest" on the GPS
headed me to Zanesville OH 4 miles away, and I switched tanks to the
avgas tank. Power instantly restored.
- Once overhead ZZV, I switched back to the offending (autogas)
tank, and saw fuel flow instantly drop. Problem isolated... no fuel flow
from autogas tank. Gauge showed 1/4 tank remaining, fuel totalizer
agreed.
- On the ground at ZZV, sumped autogas tank, found very slow fuel
flow from sump, lots of little white "slivers" perhaps 1/16" long, which
I think were ice. Hypothesized ice slush blocking fuel pickup.
Removed fuel sump drain and let a half gallon or so flow out. No
obvious chunks of ice emerged onto pavement. Fuel flow showed
good on the ground.
- Filled auto gas tank with avgas, took off on avgas tank, then tested
autogas tank at altitude. No problem.
20/20 hindsight:
- ANY sign of water in autogas is dangerous in the winter -- ice.
-- I won't use autogas from that dealer in the future, due to consistent
signs of H2O in the gas
- Keeping one tank devoted to 100% avgas is a good safety precaution
Tim
******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
.> 20/20 hindsight:
> - ANY sign of water in autogas is dangerous in the winter -- ice.
Water in any gas is dangerous. Water, and unknowns, can be found in avgas,
as well. That's why we're supposed to test for water before flights and
after filling up with gas. I've also found that one must keep the shafts of
the caps lubricated to keep them moist so that water does not venture into
the tanks when it rains. When I do that, I don't get water in my tanks. If
I don't, I can see some seepage. This is very important if one keeps his
airplane tied out, like I do.
> -- I won't use autogas from that dealer in the future, due to consistent
> signs of H2O in the gas
That is a smart move. The dealer is obviously not checking his tanks. I'm
sure your airplane is not the only one suffering from water in the gas. His
auto customers are probably suffering, as well. I've been buying airplane
gas from local auto service stations since 1986. I've yet to find water in
the gas from those stations. Call it lucky; but, I make sure that I buy
from those stations that sell a lot of gas. When I first started flying
with autogas, I'd also buy from airports that sold it. I finally quit that
because I was afraid that they didn't pump enough of it to keep it fresh. I
must admit that I still will buy it from Winterhaven, FL because their gas
is in nice tanks, which is a sign that they
probably push quite a bit of it to go to the expense of buying new tanks for
it.
> - Keeping one tank devoted to 100% avgas is a good safety precaution
>
Yes, maybe. If your avgas has water in it, you could get the same results.
:-) I don't bother with that. I check for water in the gas like I was
taught. With that, I don't worry about it. I have autogas in both tanks.
There is one little problem, though. If you're flying in extremely cold
conditions, you could have water in the gas and not find it in the test.
That could happen with either type. Since I don't like to fly when it's
that cold, I can usually find any water that's present. Another thing to do
is keep the tanks full in colder months to prevent condensation. I get more
moisture in the tanks from that than I do from leaks.
BTW, the auto gas price around the corner at the local BP was $1.17,
yesterday. Our airport's gas is around $2.40. For a guy like me who flys
on a very limited budget, auto gas in airplanes is a godsend. It's meant
that I've been able to fly my own aircraft at a much cheaper hourly rate for
the last 16+ years. If the Feds ever bring 82UL avgas on board, the rest of
you will be joining me, whether you want to or not. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
> i am sorry but priming really dose not mean someone is a TRUE craftsmen
just
> means they took extra time to prime. makes more weight, takes more time,
and
> for what?
I guess that depends on where you live. I've seen Cessnas, etc. with some
pretty bad corrosion at the ribs, etc. Especially those I've seen from
Florida. I did primer my RV-6A's interior parts; but, I'll probably just
primer the parts that do not have alclad on my next one. I don't live near
salt water; so, I'm sure that will be enough. Aircraft around here that
have not been around salt water generally fare well without the primer. A
shot of a corrosion preventative will take care of any worrying about it
that I might have; but, I'm going to wait for a while before I decide to do
that.
BTW, if one looks at a Van's QB, one would swear that they don't use primer,
either. They do. It has no pigment in it. I'm not too sure I like that.
I'd rather be able to see it.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: baggage floor and platenuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Jeff- welcome to "Platenut Hell" 8-)
I wound up using basically 2-1/2" spacing on the front and rear edges, one on each
end of each rib with 3 spaced as necessary in between. In using K1100 (flush)
screws, I figured they would probably have a little more shear strength than
K1000's, so perhaps a few less than the rivet call out would work OK, but
then I
haven't done any crash tests yet (nor do I intend to!!)
Good luck from The PossumWorks
Mark Phillips
Jeff Orear wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> list:
>
> This is a picky kind of question, but here goes. Those of you that have installed
your baggage compartment floor panels with screws/platenuts, what spacing
between screws did you use? My thought is to have one at the front and back
edges of each panel at each rib and then evenly space two between them. Sound
good?
>
> Thanks in advance folks
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuselage
> Peshtigo, WI
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | N-345SL makes first flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear skies
over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even
though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I
owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years but
mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING"
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Jim,
Thanks for the info. Sounds really good. Marine and truck engines are always better
choices than the auto versions. Since the S-10 engine makes 190 hp at 4400
rpm, 223 hp at 4800 sounds about right. Does this engine use a "hotter" cam
than the S-10? Turning those extra "Rs" may require a different PSRU ratio to
fully utilize that extra power. More power and higher engine speed means more
stress on the PSRU.
To be honest, it's the PSRU and possibly poorly constructed cooling systems that
make me shy away from using something like the 4.3. I also want constant speed
prop capability. Using a PSRU means wood or composite props ONLY. The only
C/S props which work well are the hydraulic units. The current electric versions
are to slow to adjust.
What are your thoughts & experience using the aluminium block/head combinations
offered by Chevrolet and the after market? Do these parts offer enough rigidity
for steady high output applications?
Charlie
PS Perhaps you should post your reply on list. I'm sure that there are others interested
in this info.
>--> RV-List message posted by: perfeng@3rivers.net
>
>
>Charlie,
>Your figures are right for the S-10 application for 1998-2001. The engine I
>use is not "on-road" production. It is actually one of GM's primary Marine
>engines. Box stock right out of the crate 233hp @4800. Roller valve train,
>60% under balanced crank, trufrided,"Pink" type rods, vortec flow profile heads.
>We've put together quite a few of these for different types of applications and
>every one we've had apart so far has been right down to the blueprint spec's so
>very little tweeking has had to be done.
>
>Jim D.
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
I used the regular water based clay and it worked fine you just have to seal
it with the mold release and do your lay ups before it dries and cracks,
once the wet lay up is on it won't dry out at least not before the
fiberglass epoxy resin cures. I bought 25# for $12 still have about 203 you
can have for free, come and get it.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, Flying.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ernest Kells [mailto:ernest.kells@sympatico.ca]
Subject: RV-List: Modeling Clay
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
First question: I have decided to make my own intersection fairings.
Instead of the oil-based modeling clay mentioned by Vans and the archives
for the molds, has anyone tried the normal (water-based) modeling clay that
is readily available - and cheap? First, I am considering mixing a
food-grade oil into the clay, replacing the water - stirring well in small
batches for each fairing. Second, I am considering laying up the
water-based clay, then rubbing a coating of oil on the surface for no
sticking. Would one of these methods work?? Working with fiber-glass is a
little bit of hell on Earth.
Second question: I would like to repair a few riveting dings. Would resin
mixed with flox - or milled fiber work after really roughing up the skin? I
understand that it would dry very hard. Although sanding may be really
tough, I only have very few of these so this wouldn't be a problem. It
would be great to hide these very few errors with something that won't
shrink, crack, fall off, etc. Thanks.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2655.35">
RE: RV-List: Modeling Clay
I used the regular water based clay and it worked fine you just have to seal it
with the mold release and do your lay ups before it dries and cracks, once the
wet lay up is on it won't dry out at least not before the fiberglass epoxy resin
cures. I bought 25# for $12 still have about 203 you can have for free, come
and get it.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, Flying.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ernest Kells [<A HREF"mailto:ernest.kells@sympatico.ca">mailto:ernest.kells@sympatico.ca]
Subject: RV-List: Modeling Clay
-- RV-List message posted by: Ernest Kells ernest.kells@sympatico.ca
First question: I have decided to make my own intersection fairings.
Instead of the oil-based modeling clay mentioned by Vans and the archives
for the molds, has anyone tried the normal (water-based) modeling clay that
is readily available - and cheap? First, I am considering mixing a
food-grade oil into the clay, replacing the water - stirring well in small
batches for each fairing. Second, I am considering laying up the
water-based clay, then rubbing a coating of oil on the surface for no
sticking. Would one of these methods work?? Working with fiber-glass is a
little bit of hell on Earth.
Second question: I would like to repair a few riveting dings. Would resin
mixed with flox - or milled fiber work after really roughing up the skin? I
understand that it would dry very hard. Although sanding may be really
tough, I only have very few of these so this wouldn't be a problem. It
would be great to hide these very few errors with something that won't
shrink, crack, fall off, etc. Thanks.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: N-345SL makes first flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Larry:
Congrats!!!
Take care of all the minors squawks and fly safe .. and have FUN !!!
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
24 hours !!
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
I strongly agree with Bob's attached comments. I have used Dupont's epoxy
primer on all internal parts, including homemade clips, etc.
In the current Sport Aviation is the 2nd part of an article on bringing a
Beechcraft Bonanza up to current. There is an eye-opening picture with the
skins off. It looks like someone raked dead leaves over it - brown rash
EVERYWHERE. It's an older model - but I wouldn't ride in a plane with 1/10
that corrosion. In the past I don't think that manufacturers expected ANY
plane would last a half century. Today, with modern paints, there is no
reason why EVERY plane could not last much longer. Of course, do not archive
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:Priming
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> The true craftsman primes all parts with an epoxy type primer to prevent
> corrosion in places you cannot see.
> I primed all my parts prior to assembly with NAPA Vinyl Wash Primer ( A
two
> part , self etching primer ). I will never worry about not being able to
see
> inside .
> That first step from 13.5 is a LOOOONG one !
> do not archive
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Jim & Tim-
Thanks for the great info- 2 questions:
1. Other than sumping the tanks, what is the "test for water" procedure you
speak of?
2. Any ideas if any of the commercially available fuel anti-ice products might
be useful prophylactics for icing (I'm am not familiar with them, just heard of
'em) or would the tank sealant/hoses/seals etc. object with unpleasant results?
Anybody used any of this stuff?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - 6A
>
> .> 20/20 hindsight:
> > - ANY sign of water in autogas is dangerous in the winter -- ice.
>
> Water in any gas is dangerous. Water, and unknowns, can be found in avgas,
> as well. That's why we're supposed to test for water before flights and
> after filling up with gas.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> I also want constant speed prop capability. Using a PSRU means wood or composite
props ONLY.
There are PSRUs that allow you to use a Hartzell CS prop. A friend has one on
his Spitfire replica. However, I think it's a gear drive, which I know you're
not so keen on. If you like I can find out more about it for you.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rockets vs Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Japundza" <Bob.Japundza@realmed.com>
>How will insurance costs differ...RV versus F1?
Larry,
Yearly insurance costs will be a little more than double what I'm paying now.
On the other side of that, the hull value is much higher so it comes as no surprise.
I've been quoted around $2500/yr. Ouch. This is because of the high
rate of claims on the HR2...that's an entirely different subject which I won't
get into here. Hopefully it will go down somewhat as more F1's get airborne.
Ironically, I believe I will only a few thousand $$ more into the completion
of this airplane than my RV-6. The engines and props at the moment are in greater
supply than 4-cyl engines, I was able to get some good deals on the engine
and prop. Its all a balancing act.
Bob
Message 13
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| Subject: | N-345SL makes first flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Larry,
Congratulations!!!!!!!!!! I wish you many thousands of hours more. The
RV-4 is a dream come true for many of us, myself included.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
>
> RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear
skies
> over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even
> though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down.
I
> owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years
but
> mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help.
> Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING"
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: N-345SL makes first flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Larry,
CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "'RV List'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight
>Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 06:43:45 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
>
>RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear
>skies
>over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even
>though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I
>owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years
>but
>mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help.
>Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING"
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Rapco Vac Pump Mount questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Gary,
A homegrown solution is to modify a 7/16 box end wrench by cutting open
the end of the boxend to slip over the stud and putting a right angle
bend (requires heating) in the shank of the wrench about 2" from the
center of the boxend. This will allow the long part of the shank to pass
between the pump and the oil filter.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
WCruiser1@aol.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: WCruiser1@aol.com
>
> I am working on installing my rapco vac pump on the aux mount of my O-360 and
> have not figured out how to tighten the lower corner nut closest to the
> centerline of the engine. With the pump diameter larger than the mount
> pattern, you have to tighten the nuts from the side (no socket access)
> however the oil filter, temerature control, and tach drive are imediated
> adjacent to the lower corner attachement.
>
> Any advise would be greately appreciated.
>
> Gary Gembala
>
> RV8A
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re:Water+Autogas=ice=no Gas |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I have used a mixture of auto regular and 100LL and have had NO water
problems . Of course I strain everything through a funnel with a screen fine
enough to reject water . NOTHING goes into my tanks - except through that
funnel . Really cheap insurance .
I check each barrel of auto gas for alcohol too.
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
He did use an emoticon but most apparently missed it.
Thus written by a man who inserts much humor into his email WITHOUT the use
of emoticons. Most people miss my humor too. Yet, I still do not stop.
Do not archive
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Borduas [mailto:eborduas@lycos.com]
Subject: RE: RV-List: (apology)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Borduas" <eborduas@lycos.com>
>>I've found that humour rarely works in email, unless you're a very good
writer,
>>except with someone you've already met face-to-face. I'm not a good
enough
>>writer, so I avoid it.
The difficulty with expressing emotions is exactly the reason why emoticons
(smilies) came about. E.g: :), :( ;}, and many others.
ERic
-7 | -9?
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: inspection good experience - thx |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection.
Mike R.
Do Not Archive
>From: WPAerial@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
>Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
>Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have an
>airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-)
>
>Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike.
>
>Jerry Wilken
>Albany Oregon
>N699WP S/N 23776
>1056 lb.
>2014 hours build time to date.
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
MT-Propeller makes a very nice electric constant speed propeller. I just
received one for my LOM engine. They put together a very complete propeller
system package (based on what I've received.).
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn 50 LOM M332A engine
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: inspection good experience - thx |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA
was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked
to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to
pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection.
Tracy Crook
Mazda 13B powered RV-4
Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection.
>
> Mike R.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> >From: WPAerial@aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
> >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
> >
> >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have
an
> >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-)
> >
> >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike.
> >
> >Jerry Wilken
> >Albany Oregon
> >N699WP S/N 23776
> >1056 lb.
> >2014 hours build time to date.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Electric Constant Speed Propeller |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
After spending my week at Oshkosh this year looking for a replacement
propeller for my present electric CS prop, I found the booth for
MT-Propeller.
Yea. I know. They make "aerobatic" propellers, which make the airplane fly
slower. I read that on the RV-list. Recently. So it must be true. :-)
However, if you request a "cruise" propeller, you'll get a very efficient
cruise propeller. (For you "Missouri technical" people, I'll have actual
performance numbers soon. :-) )
MT-Propeller uses a questionnaire to determine the appropriate propeller for
each application. (I have already filled out a couple of questionnaires for
individuals on the RV-list that have E-mailed me directly.)
The questionnaire does NOT order the propeller.
The questionnaire is used to identify the propeller hub and blade design,
which match the data provided on the questionnaire. The propeller model and
blade designation is provided with a price list of the "propeller system".
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | countersinking spar on RV7 wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Lomoth" <rv7canuck@hotmail.com>
Hello
I am starting to countersink the flange for the nutplates that hold the fuel
tank skins to the spar. I am using a piece of aluminum behind the spar to
center the pilot. I have drilled the holes to #19 and am using a #8 screw
countersink cutter. The size of the countersinks seem quite large to me and
was wondering how wide other peoples countersinks may be? I know that they
are deeper than the flange so thats why I used the aluminum behind it. When
I use a test dimple, also #8 the countersinks seem larger than they should.
Anybody else out there with this problem?
Thanks in advance
Gordon Lomoth
Kitchener, Ontario
Rv7 wings
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | width of fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Can anyone please tell me how wide the widest part of an RV-7 fuselage is, when
it's ready to be moved out of the shop and out to a hanger for installation of
the wings, etc?
I'm trying to decide which RV to build.
KL
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | inspection good experience - thx |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
Depends on where you're at, Albuquerque FSDO did mine for free, tax dollars
at work. The guy was very helpful and easy to deal with.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, flying.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tracy Crook [mailto:lors01@msn.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA
was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked
to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to
pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection.
Tracy Crook
Mazda 13B powered RV-4
Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection.
>
> Mike R.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> >From: WPAerial@aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
> >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
> >
> >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have
an
> >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-)
> >
> >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike.
> >
> >Jerry Wilken
> >Albany Oregon
> >N699WP S/N 23776
> >1056 lb.
> >2014 hours build time to date.
> >
> >
>
>
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2655.35">
RE: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
Depends on where you're at, Albuquerque FSDO did mine for free, tax dollars at
work. The guy was very helpful and easy to deal with.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, flying.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tracy Crook [<A HREF"mailto:lors01@msn.com">mailto:lors01@msn.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
-- RV-List message posted by: Tracy Crook lors01@msn.com
Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA
was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked
to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to
pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection.
Tracy Crook
Mazda 13B powered RV-4
Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected.
-- RV-List message posted by: Mike Robertson mrobert569@hotmail.com
Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection.
Mike R.
Do Not Archive
From: WPAerial@aol.com
Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST
-- RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have
an
airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-)
Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike.
Jerry Wilken
Albany Oregon
N699WP S/N 23776
1056 lb.
2014 hours build time to date.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: inspection good experience - thx |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
It is up to individual offices and their workload. Nation wide the FAA is
down on inspectors and because of the redirect of funds to the TSA their is
a freeze on hiring with some exceptions.
Mike Robertson
Do Not Archive
>From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
>Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:31:12 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
>Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the
>FAA
>was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked
>to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to
>pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection.
>
>Tracy Crook
>Mazda 13B powered RV-4
>Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected.
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection.
> >
> > Mike R.
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> > >From: WPAerial@aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
> > >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
> > >
> > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have
>an
> > >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-)
> > >
> > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike.
> > >
> > >Jerry Wilken
> > >Albany Oregon
> > >N699WP S/N 23776
> > >1056 lb.
> > >2014 hours build time to date.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: width of fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I measured 43 5/16" exterior width at the widest point.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: RV-List: width of fuselage
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers"
<DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> Can anyone please tell me how wide the widest part of an RV-7 fuselage is,
when it's ready to be moved out of the shop and out to a hanger for
installation of the wings, etc?
>
> I'm trying to decide which RV to build.
>
> KL
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | weight of Hooker Harnesses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
I have Hooker harnesses for my 8A, five point, with shoulder and lap
pads, pull tabs, and military style latch. Weight of both is about 9 pounds
- hard to be exact on my bathroom scales, but should be close.
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Howdy 'list-
Somebody's website has a color graphic of Van's standard airfoil showing
pressure gradients around it in flight- some kind of wind tunnel test
results, I believe. I know I had it but it's buried somewhere on my
well-organized hard drive. 8-( If someone could send me a link (or
the file) I would appreciate it!
Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve
without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark - do not archive -
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engines...somewhat long! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Jim Duckett wrote:
> To adress the "Alternative Engine Cost" of $8000 ready to run, I'll give
> Re-Sale prices here.
> 4.3L (262ci) 230HP Chevrolet 4300 V-6 Marine Vortec $1600
> Carb, Manifold, and Leaning block $ 550
> Redundant MSD Ignition system $ 700
> Dampener, Pulleys, Flexplate, Brackets, etc. $ 500
> Average cost of PSRU $4000
> 12 hours to inspect and assemble @$65/Hr. $ 780
>
> Total $7980
>
> If you figure our actual cost (being a stocking shop) and our actual
> cost of labor, yes, we can build a dang good powerplant assembly for 8
> grand!
Fair enough, but if I worked for Superior Air Parts I could probably buy
all the components at cost for a percentage of their kit price, too. I
may even be able to get some of the guys in the shop to assemble it for
me for a case of beer (delivered *after* assembly, of course... 8-). We
don't all have access to someone willing to cut their profits on parts
just to sell us an engine. Or are you suggesting that you would be
willing to sell anyone who called you a running engine for $8000?
> Even if you build a full aluminum auto engine with every "trick part
> under the sun"and charge out every bit of labor and machining you still
> come in around $14,000 with PSRU, and you can make 230-250 HP with
> excellent reliability and longevity and be around 100# lighter than the Lyc.
This is the claim i've heard from *every* auto conversion manufacturer,
and it's still only a bunch of predictions. Nobody has *done* it. Yet.
I'm not saying it *can't* be done. I'm saying it *hasn't* been done.
I would like nothing more than to put an engine in my RV-7 (when I get
that far) for $8000 that gives me 230-250hp, 100# lighter than a
Lycoming, inverted and aerobatic capable, reliable, and with a 2000 hour
expected TBO. But that product does not exist.
> Who knows, I may win a new 200HP angle valve in a raffle and this will
> go down as a good discussion topic.
It's always a good discussion topic, Jim... If it ends up with a new
engine on the market that meets a great price point, then i'm all for
it... 8-)
> Jim Duckett, sissy nose wheeling, chevy thinking RV-7A
Oh, and the nosewheel will require an even more complex engine mount,
and you'll have less room inside the engine compartment, and... 8-)
-RB4
RV7 Empennage
Do not archive
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: width of fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
> I measured 43 5/16" exterior width at the widest point.
...or about .001100139611 kilometers.....................
Ooops, sorry!! 8-)
such a frivolous - do not archive - waste of bandwidth!!!
Mark
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: width of fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I forgot you need to add a few inches because the bottom center skin
protrudes out. Say 48" to be safe.
)_( Dan
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: width of fuselage
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> > I measured 43 5/16" exterior width at the widest point.
>
> ...or about .001100139611 kilometers.....................
>
> Ooops, sorry!! 8-)
> such a frivolous - do not archive - waste of bandwidth!!!
>
> Mark
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Bodie" <rv6apjb@attbi.com>
Had the same problem yesterday. Screw in a longer screw and tap on it with a
hammer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Howdy 'list-
>
> Somebody's website has a color graphic of Van's standard airfoil showing
> pressure gradients around it in flight- some kind of wind tunnel test
> results, I believe. I know I had it but it's buried somewhere on my
> well-organized hard drive. 8-( If someone could send me a link (or
> the file) I would appreciate it!
>
> Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve
> without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-)
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark - do not archive -
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | N-345SL makes first flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
That is really great, congratulations on your first flight..
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF, (still test flying, weather not co-operating)
Olcott, NY
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins
Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com>
RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear skies
over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even
though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I
owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years but
mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING"
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: countersinking spar on RV7 wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
The way I check machined countersinks is to gradually adjust the cutter depth
until a test dimple in a piece of scrap material the same thickness as the
overlying skin just fits flush in the countersink. Another thing you need to
watch is that even a backup plate unless it is securely clamped in position
will allow the cutter pilot to wobble and cut uneven and oversized holes.
This works for me, hope it helps
In a message dated 12/9/02 8:53:44 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv7canuck@hotmail.com writes:
<< --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Lomoth" <rv7canuck@hotmail.com>
Hello
I am starting to countersink the flange for the nutplates that hold the fuel
tank skins to the spar. I am using a piece of aluminum behind the spar to
center the pilot. I have drilled the holes to #19 and am using a #8 screw
countersink cutter. The size of the countersinks seem quite large to me and
was wondering how wide other peoples countersinks may be? I know that they
are deeper than the flange so thats why I used the aluminum behind it. When
I use a test dimple, also #8 the countersinks seem larger than they should.
Anybody else out there with this problem?
Thanks in advance
Gordon Lomoth >>
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, electrical (still)
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: countersinking spar on RV7 wings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
That's basically what I did. I got some 1/8" x 1" aluminum strips from Home
Depot and made templates by drilling to #19 after I had drilled the holes in
the spar to #19. I just attached the templates using #8 flat screws and
nuts and clecoes through the platenut holes. When I finished
countersinking, I had barely touched the aluminum backplate. You don't want
to use an air drill here. I used a battery powered drill set to the slower
of the two possible speeds. I also used cutting fluid available from
Cleaveland.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Lomoth" <rv7canuck@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: countersinking spar on RV7 wings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Lomoth" <rv7canuck@hotmail.com>
>
> Hello
>
> I am starting to countersink the flange for the nutplates that hold the
fuel
> tank skins to the spar. I am using a piece of aluminum behind the spar to
> center the pilot. I have drilled the holes to #19 and am using a #8 screw
> countersink cutter. The size of the countersinks seem quite large to me
and
> was wondering how wide other peoples countersinks may be? I know that
they
> are deeper than the flange so thats why I used the aluminum behind it.
When
> I use a test dimple, also #8 the countersinks seem larger than they
should.
> Anybody else out there with this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Gordon Lomoth
> Kitchener, Ontario
> Rv7 wings
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
hello:
I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does not
fit well with one side of the fuselage.
I am trying to bend to fit better, instead what
I did was to make it worst.
Any suggestions, any one out there had any problem
with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend this
steel tube...
waiting for some reply ,,,
thanks much
bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Yeah, but you could make the same point about a nosewheel.
:>)
Dave
do not archive
WPAerial@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
> i am sorry but priming really dose not mean someone is a TRUE craftsmen just
> means they took extra time to prime. makes more weight, takes more time, and
> for what?
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"<recapen@earthlink.net>
I just went through that whole mess. I finally put the forward face of the
slider frame on the garage floor, stood on it and muscled the center brace to
the side - it needed to move over an inch. The two "poker" inserts are not
level with each other (but the blocks can be drilled at different levels to
compensate). Then I could work the rear bow. It fits - enough that I'm
satisfied with it...but it should have fit better out of the box - especially
with a QB!
Ralph Capen
Waiting for warm weather for the plexi...
On 9 Dec 2002 21:51:11 -0000 Bert Forero <bert6@mybluelight.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero"
>
> hello:
>
> I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does
> not
> fit well with one side of the fuselage.
>
> I am trying to bend to fit better, instead
> what
> I did was to make it worst.
>
> Any suggestions, any one out there had any
> problem
> with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend
> this
> steel tube...
>
> waiting for some reply ,,,
> thanks much
>
>
> bert
> rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars
> a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the
> about this
> your generous
> the Contributions
> ads or any other
> Forums.
> latest messages.
> other List members.
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Princeton capacitive fuel level probes |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
Is anyone out there using Princeton capacitive fuel level probes? Grand Rapids
Technologies is selling them with their EIS engine monitor, and they are available
pre-bent to fit the RV tanks so I'm assuming there must be some in service.
Any comments pro or con? I already have the Stewart Warner float senders
but am thinking about getting the capacitive probes and putting them in before
my wings are permanently mounted. They are more expensive at $95 each but if
it saves me *ever* having to pull them out for replacement it's probly worthwhile.
I know it can be done but in my case it will be worse on the left wing
since I have my fuel pump and gascolator in the wing root area...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: inspection good experience - thx |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
Tracy,
A few are still being done out of the Orlando office by Al Kimbal. I don't
know if you could get him to go all of the way to Bell.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
> Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the
FAA
> was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked
> to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had
to
> pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection.
>
> Tracy Crook
> Mazda 13B powered RV-4
> Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected.
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection.
> >
> > Mike R.
> >
> > Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> > >From: WPAerial@aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx
> > >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
> > >
> > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have
> an
> > >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-)
> > >
> > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike.
> > >
> > >Jerry Wilken
> > >Albany Oregon
> > >N699WP S/N 23776
> > >1056 lb.
> > >2014 hours build time to date.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Bert,
To bend the Large diameter tubes I made a holder for the bench vise.
I used two pieces of 2X4 About 4" long. I clamped the 4" faces of them
together in the vice. I drilled them across the grain with a large enough
drill so that when opened they could be put around the tube and clamped in
the vise. This allowed me to use solid force enough to be able to tweak/bend
the roll over bar/windshield by myself.
I used shop rags folded to use as cushions so as to avoid denting the bar
while bending. It would will be wise as well to use a rasp to soften the
outermost edges of the "2X4 clamp" to help avoid these dents.
For bending the smaller canopy frame tubes while in place on the airframe I
made a portable bender that incorporates the use of carpenters bar clamp.
I cut 4, 4" lengths of 2X4. Again I drilled them across the grain in the
vise. Two of these pieces where screwed to the ends of a longer piece of
2X4. so that the grooves in them would lay parallel to the length of the
2X4. One of the remaining pieces of 2X4 can then be used as the opposing
clamp face for this awkward but effective tube bender. Again the outer edges
of the grooves should be softened with a rasp or coarse file.
Hold the carpentry clamp and the longer 2X4 part centered against area of
the tube you want to bend put the short 2X4 piece opposite and tighten the
clamp.
This whole arrangement sounds and is somewhat awkward but it worked for me.
The smallest, rear canopy tubes where bent by hand. To do this I found
myself doing a combination dance, Sumo wrestling and exercise that had me
simultaneously laughing and cursing.
Lots of luck,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: canopy frame
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> hello:
>
> I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does not
> fit well with one side of the fuselage.
>
> I am trying to bend to fit better, instead what
> I did was to make it worst.
>
> Any suggestions, any one out there had any problem
> with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend this
> steel tube...
>
> waiting for some reply ,,,
> thanks much
>
>
> bert
> rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 S-cowl Dave Ford |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Dave..
I am just finishing my baffles. The way I read the instructions the area behind
the spinner is to be sealed and I am in the process of doing that now but have
not succeeded yet. The fiberglass ducts on the underside of the top cowl have
been trimmed to fit between the side baffles and the center baffles. The
ducts have a very small space (1/4") between them and the baffles to allow the
rubber seal to pass as the top cowl is being installed in position. This may
be enlarged later for fit as the rubber seals have not been installed yet. My
cowl ducts are, at this point only clecoed in position so they are still moveable.
I don't know if this is the proper way to do this but that is where I
am now. It appears like the seal around the nose of the cowl will not be super
tight like the rest of the baffles but I am trying.
Dick DeCramer
RV 6
Northfield, MN
Message 43
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| Subject: | Princeton capacitive fuel level probes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Haven't used them.
The EIS folks said the Van's cap. Senders, which I have installed, would
work with their instrument too. Just need a converter/adapter thingy.
I don't remember the details at this point. I'll have to revisit those
details and order them soon. I already have the EIS.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> czechsix@juno.com
> Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 6:16 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Guys,
>
> Is anyone out there using Princeton capacitive fuel level
> probes? Grand Rapids Technologies is selling them with their
> EIS engine monitor, and they are available pre-bent to fit
> the RV tanks so I'm assuming there must be some in service.
> Any comments pro or con? I already have the Stewart Warner
> float senders but am thinking about getting the capacitive
> probes and putting them in before my wings are permanently
> mounted. They are more expensive at $95 each but if it saves
> me *ever* having to pull them out for replacement it's probly
> worthwhile. I know it can be done but in my case it will be
> worse on the left wing since I have my fuel pump and
> gascolator in the wing root area...
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D fiberglass...
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" <randallh@attbi.com>
> I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does not
> fit well with one side of the fuselage.
>
> I am trying to bend to fit better, instead what
> I did was to make it worst.
>
> Any suggestions, any one out there had any problem
> with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend this
> steel tube...
Picture a flowchart that goes:
1) Bend tube
2) Better? go to step 4. Otherwise
3) Worse? Go to step 1. Otherwise
4) Still not quite right? Go to step 1. Otherwise
5) You're done.
If the you haven't made it to step 5 at the end of a week, you're still not
alone -- keep trying.
And no I'm not even really trying to be sarcastic. I spent close to a week
of evenings on that. Read the other posts for suggestions on how to bend the
thing (and hit the archives if you cant get enough of that.) Also I believe
it was issue 5 2002 of the RVator that had a good write-up on it by Scott
McDaniels.
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs)
Portland, OR
www.vanshomewing.org
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Single Strobe Power Supply Source? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Has anyone found an acceptable, reasonably-priced Strobe Power Supply
Source
> for single tail strobe? I have searched archives w/o success for
alternative
> source. Thanks for your help.
When I researched strobes and what power supplies (read brightness) put
out, I found that you get what you pay for. I then noticed that some small
planes had strobes that were much brighter than others. The lessor of the
ones I saw in flight weren't effective very far but yet I was able to notice
stobe flashes on some planes at very great distances. I then bought the
Whelens from ACS for big bucks. Ho hum......
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 46
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
snip
> I also put in the Targa strip with Velcro. I used contact cement on my
first RV-6A, but was not happy with the long term results. The contact
cement would not hold up and over time would come apart from the metal. So
on the new RV-6A I'm building, I'm planning on holding the Velcro in place
with a metal strip and pop rivets. The Velcro will be help in place on the
under side of the instrument panel in the same manner......
snip
For the record, this builder is talking about a cover over the backs of his
instrunments and radios where I believe most people are calling a Targa
Strip a custom made piece that covers the split between the two canopy
pieces on a RV6, RV7, or RV9.
I would like to add a comment from my seat maker that he told me last week.
(Happy Ho Langley BC) I was out at his shop looking for a piece of material
to cover the top of my glairsheild. He mentioned to be carefull to use high
temperature contact cement for any area where the sun can bake the
upolstery. I had no idea there were different types. I went to Home Depot
and sure enough they had the 3M High Strength V90 that Mr Ho had shown me in
his shop.
Now some builders from the past will recall that I have been promoting the
use of nothing but non flamable products within the cockpit. Now I am in a
state of conflict with contact cement. The stuff is available from many
manufactors with a water base that is very low flamable where the regular
stuff and certainly the V90 is highly flammable. I once had to prep a
Mercedes for a TV show that would jump several other cars and have a big
crash while on fire. We bought a one gallon can of contact cement and poured
it all over the car just as the cameras began to roll. A friend of mine used
a small torch and lit it then the stunt driver floored it and we jumped out
of the way. He got to 45 mph before he hit the pipe ramp and was majorly on
fire the whole way. Wasn't the safest day for any of us but no one was hurt
and we got a great shot. The car was a fire ball to the camera but we were
actually controlling where the fire was by using a thick grade of contact
cement. We were successfull in containing the fire to the exterior of the
car.
So I will use the high strength only on the glair sheild where the black
covering is going to create a very hard duty. Everything else will be done
with the water based stuff. The last thing I want is my upolstery falling
apart in the first year. Or the second for that matter.....
The moral of this post is to be aware that there are many different types of
glues out there. Some contact cements will work better than others.
Seasons greatings from Norman Hunger and familly.
Do not archive
Message 47
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| Subject: | Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
I just found out my new Lycoming engine is in town. The catch is that the
truck doesn't have a lift gate to unload the engine. I have a portable
engine crane and five of the nylon tiedowns that I used to pull the wing
skins into position. I don't want to take it out of the box since it's
packed for long term storage. I'm thinking it won't be a big deal to rig up
something when the truck arrives to lower it about four feet onto a cart I
have. Am I wrong?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
> through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
> you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
> lace it together and let it dangle?
Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage side skins like my
RV6A?
I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in the J-stringers. A few
holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they are very secure. I used
Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Single strobe power supply |
--> RV-List message posted by: DvdBock@aol.com
Thanks for your help. I contacted Louis there.
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> By the way, it was sub-20F when I started the airplane this morning. It
cranked right off. I had a $12 heating pad on the battery, two blankets
over the cowl, and a couple of trouble lights inside the cowl.
How long do you have the trouble lights on for? Overnight?
Norman
Do not archive
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Thank-you Gary for the info.
> On the front fairing to the windshield: I don't know of anyone who has
made the fairing separate from the windshield. Far as I know, everyone lays
it up right on the plexi, and bonds it to the windshield. Rough up the
'glass first so it will stick.
>
How do you get the upper edge of the fairing to have a nice edge? I don't
see myself sanding away there with one little slip ruining the windscreen. I
thought I would make the fairing removable for just the first three layers,
perfect the upper edge, then glue it on and continue glassing on more layers
while being carfull to never get too near the top edge. Comments?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: baggage floor and platenuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> This is a picky kind of question, but here goes. Those of you that have
installed your baggage compartment floor panels with screws/platenuts, what
spacing between screws did you use? My thought is to have one at the front
and back edges of each panel at each rib and then evenly space two between
them. Sound good?
Yup (RV6A), it's in my "if I were doing it again" file.....
Norman
Message 53
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| Subject: | Cockpit Floor Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Time for the cockpit floor to get finished (RV-6A, btw). The Coleman camping foam
is already cut and two layers glued to fit between the stiffener angles and
the somewhat fire-resistant carpet is ready to cut to fit.
Can anyone with a few hours flying comment on the need for any additional stiffening
or reinforcement material between the foam and the carpet ? How about "heel
scuff plates" as mentioned in the archives occasionally.?
My thinking is to provide a smooth, flat surface to lay the carpet on (attached
with velcro strips or whatever) and provide a firmer surface to step on when
getting in. Probably won't be too many ladies with spike heels or similar getting
in but something fairly substantial seems needed; .025 alum seems too thin,
040 or greater would work but seems heavy. I am thinking about something like
1/4" ply or 1/8" hardboard cut to fit around the battery box and miss the various
tits of fuel and brake line at the edges of the floor. Salvaged airliner
honeycomb floor would be notice but is not likely to happen.
Scuff plates would be strategically placed alum rectangles riveted to the carpet
under the rudder pedals.
So, useful items or just more unnecessary weight ??
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A (wings on - only 30 inaccessible $%&* nuts left to tighten)
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