---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 12/09/02: 53 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:34 AM - Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow (Tim Lewis) 2. 03:17 AM - Re: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow (Jim Sears) 3. 03:25 AM - Re: Re:Priming (Jim Sears) 4. 04:34 AM - Re: baggage floor and platenuts (Mark Phillips) 5. 05:48 AM - N-345SL makes first flight (Larry Hawkins) 6. 05:52 AM - Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) (Charlie Kuss) 7. 06:03 AM - Re: Modeling Clay (Larry Hawkins) 8. 06:06 AM - Re: N-345SL makes first flight (Lenleg@aol.com) 9. 06:09 AM - Re: Re:Priming (Ernest Kells) 10. 06:18 AM - Re: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow (Mark Phillips) 11. 06:33 AM - Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) (Tedd McHenry) 12. 06:52 AM - Re: Re: Rockets vs Van's (Bob Japundza) 13. 06:54 AM - Fw: N-345SL makes first flight (C. Rabaut) 14. 07:07 AM - Re: N-345SL makes first flight (Charles Rowbotham) 15. 07:24 AM - Re: Rapco Vac Pump Mount questions (Richard Dudley) 16. 07:28 AM - Re:Water+Autogas=ice=no Gas (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 17. 07:48 AM - Re: (apology) (Van Artsdalen, Scott) 18. 07:49 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Mike Robertson) 19. 08:17 AM - Re: Charlie Kuss (engines) (LeastDrag93066@aol.com) 20. 08:26 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Tracy Crook) 21. 08:43 AM - Electric Constant Speed Propeller (LeastDrag93066@aol.com) 22. 08:52 AM - countersinking spar on RV7 wings (Gordon Lomoth) 23. 08:58 AM - width of fuselage (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers) 24. 09:05 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Larry Hawkins) 25. 09:32 AM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (Mike Robertson) 26. 09:45 AM - Re: width of fuselage (Dan Checkoway) 27. 09:55 AM - weight of Hooker Harnesses (Jim Truitt) 28. 10:23 AM - Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Mark Phillips) 29. 10:42 AM - Re: Engines...somewhat long! (Rob Prior) 30. 10:50 AM - Re: width of fuselage (Mark Phillips) 31. 11:07 AM - Re: width of fuselage (Dan Checkoway) 32. 11:18 AM - Re: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve (Pete Bodie) 33. 11:30 AM - Re: N-345SL makes first flight (Francis Malczynski) 34. 12:03 PM - Re: countersinking spar on RV7 wings (HCRV6@aol.com) 35. 12:48 PM - Re: countersinking spar on RV7 wings (Stephen Johnson) 36. 01:53 PM - canopy frame (Bert Forero) 37. 02:25 PM - Re: Re:Priming (Dave Bristol) 38. 02:49 PM - Re: canopy frame (Ralph E. Capen) 39. 03:18 PM - Princeton capacitive fuel level probes (czechsix@juno.com) 40. 04:49 PM - Re: inspection good experience - thx (William Davis) 41. 05:15 PM - Re: canopy frame (Jim Jewell) 42. 05:22 PM - Re: RV6 S-cowl Dave Ford (Dick DeCramer) 43. 05:38 PM - Re: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes (Larry Bowen) 44. 08:12 PM - Re: canopy frame (Randall Henderson) 45. 08:27 PM - Re: Single Strobe Power Supply Source? (Norman) 46. 09:16 PM - Contact Cement (Norman) 47. 09:18 PM - Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck (Stephen Johnson) 48. 09:33 PM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (Norman) 49. 09:40 PM - Re: Re: Single strobe power supply (DvdBock@aol.com) 50. 10:31 PM - Re: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's (Norman) 51. 10:34 PM - Re: Re: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) (Norman) 52. 10:43 PM - Re: baggage floor and platenuts (Norman) 53. 11:45 PM - Cockpit Floor Details (Jim Oke) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:34:14 AM PST US From: "Tim Lewis" Subject: RV-List: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" Listers, I've been using 93 octane auto gas on one tank of my RV-6A for over a year. For the first time, last week, I had a problem with the auto gas. - I'd noticed on the last several tanks that after I poured the autogas into the tank (using that AC$ filter that's supposed to trap water) that I was getting about 1/4" of water in the fuel sampler when I sumped the auto gas tank. (I check each batch of auto gas to ensure it contains no alcohol, using the EAA test). - On a flight to Chicago, 10-15 degrees F @ 8000', I started loosing power. Carb heat did no good, so "nearest/nearest" on the GPS headed me to Zanesville OH 4 miles away, and I switched tanks to the avgas tank. Power instantly restored. - Once overhead ZZV, I switched back to the offending (autogas) tank, and saw fuel flow instantly drop. Problem isolated... no fuel flow from autogas tank. Gauge showed 1/4 tank remaining, fuel totalizer agreed. - On the ground at ZZV, sumped autogas tank, found very slow fuel flow from sump, lots of little white "slivers" perhaps 1/16" long, which I think were ice. Hypothesized ice slush blocking fuel pickup. Removed fuel sump drain and let a half gallon or so flow out. No obvious chunks of ice emerged onto pavement. Fuel flow showed good on the ground. - Filled auto gas tank with avgas, took off on avgas tank, then tested autogas tank at altitude. No problem. 20/20 hindsight: - ANY sign of water in autogas is dangerous in the winter -- ice. -- I won't use autogas from that dealer in the future, due to consistent signs of H2O in the gas - Keeping one tank devoted to 100% avgas is a good safety precaution Tim ****** Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA) RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99 http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a ****** ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:17:58 AM PST US From: "Jim Sears" Subject: Re: RV-List: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" .> 20/20 hindsight: > - ANY sign of water in autogas is dangerous in the winter -- ice. Water in any gas is dangerous. Water, and unknowns, can be found in avgas, as well. That's why we're supposed to test for water before flights and after filling up with gas. I've also found that one must keep the shafts of the caps lubricated to keep them moist so that water does not venture into the tanks when it rains. When I do that, I don't get water in my tanks. If I don't, I can see some seepage. This is very important if one keeps his airplane tied out, like I do. > -- I won't use autogas from that dealer in the future, due to consistent > signs of H2O in the gas That is a smart move. The dealer is obviously not checking his tanks. I'm sure your airplane is not the only one suffering from water in the gas. His auto customers are probably suffering, as well. I've been buying airplane gas from local auto service stations since 1986. I've yet to find water in the gas from those stations. Call it lucky; but, I make sure that I buy from those stations that sell a lot of gas. When I first started flying with autogas, I'd also buy from airports that sold it. I finally quit that because I was afraid that they didn't pump enough of it to keep it fresh. I must admit that I still will buy it from Winterhaven, FL because their gas is in nice tanks, which is a sign that they probably push quite a bit of it to go to the expense of buying new tanks for it. > - Keeping one tank devoted to 100% avgas is a good safety precaution > Yes, maybe. If your avgas has water in it, you could get the same results. :-) I don't bother with that. I check for water in the gas like I was taught. With that, I don't worry about it. I have autogas in both tanks. There is one little problem, though. If you're flying in extremely cold conditions, you could have water in the gas and not find it in the test. That could happen with either type. Since I don't like to fly when it's that cold, I can usually find any water that's present. Another thing to do is keep the tanks full in colder months to prevent condensation. I get more moisture in the tanks from that than I do from leaks. BTW, the auto gas price around the corner at the local BP was $1.17, yesterday. Our airport's gas is around $2.40. For a guy like me who flys on a very limited budget, auto gas in airplanes is a godsend. It's meant that I've been able to fly my own aircraft at a much cheaper hourly rate for the last 16+ years. If the Feds ever bring 82UL avgas on board, the rest of you will be joining me, whether you want to or not. :-) Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS EAA Tech Counselor ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:25:59 AM PST US From: "Jim Sears" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Priming --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" > i am sorry but priming really dose not mean someone is a TRUE craftsmen just > means they took extra time to prime. makes more weight, takes more time, and > for what? I guess that depends on where you live. I've seen Cessnas, etc. with some pretty bad corrosion at the ribs, etc. Especially those I've seen from Florida. I did primer my RV-6A's interior parts; but, I'll probably just primer the parts that do not have alclad on my next one. I don't live near salt water; so, I'm sure that will be enough. Aircraft around here that have not been around salt water generally fare well without the primer. A shot of a corrosion preventative will take care of any worrying about it that I might have; but, I'm going to wait for a while before I decide to do that. BTW, if one looks at a Van's QB, one would swear that they don't use primer, either. They do. It has no pigment in it. I'm not too sure I like that. I'd rather be able to see it. Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS EAA Tech Counselor ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:34:30 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: RV-List: baggage floor and platenuts --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Hi Jeff- welcome to "Platenut Hell" 8-) I wound up using basically 2-1/2" spacing on the front and rear edges, one on each end of each rib with 3 spaced as necessary in between. In using K1100 (flush) screws, I figured they would probably have a little more shear strength than K1000's, so perhaps a few less than the rivet call out would work OK, but then I haven't done any crash tests yet (nor do I intend to!!) Good luck from The PossumWorks Mark Phillips Jeff Orear wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" > > list: > > This is a picky kind of question, but here goes. Those of you that have installed your baggage compartment floor panels with screws/platenuts, what spacing between screws did you use? My thought is to have one at the front and back edges of each panel at each rib and then evenly space two between them. Sound good? > > Thanks in advance folks > > Regards, > > Jeff Orear > RV6A > fuselage > Peshtigo, WI > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:48:26 AM PST US From: Larry Hawkins Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear skies over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years but mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING" ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:52:01 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Charlie Kuss (engines) --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Jim, Thanks for the info. Sounds really good. Marine and truck engines are always better choices than the auto versions. Since the S-10 engine makes 190 hp at 4400 rpm, 223 hp at 4800 sounds about right. Does this engine use a "hotter" cam than the S-10? Turning those extra "Rs" may require a different PSRU ratio to fully utilize that extra power. More power and higher engine speed means more stress on the PSRU. To be honest, it's the PSRU and possibly poorly constructed cooling systems that make me shy away from using something like the 4.3. I also want constant speed prop capability. Using a PSRU means wood or composite props ONLY. The only C/S props which work well are the hydraulic units. The current electric versions are to slow to adjust. What are your thoughts & experience using the aluminium block/head combinations offered by Chevrolet and the after market? Do these parts offer enough rigidity for steady high output applications? Charlie PS Perhaps you should post your reply on list. I'm sure that there are others interested in this info. >--> RV-List message posted by: perfeng@3rivers.net > > >Charlie, >Your figures are right for the S-10 application for 1998-2001. The engine I >use is not "on-road" production. It is actually one of GM's primary Marine >engines. Box stock right out of the crate 233hp @4800. Roller valve train, >60% under balanced crank, trufrided,"Pink" type rods, vortec flow profile heads. >We've put together quite a few of these for different types of applications and >every one we've had apart so far has been right down to the blueprint spec's so >very little tweeking has had to be done. > >Jim D. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:03:16 AM PST US From: Larry Hawkins Subject: RE: RV-List: Modeling Clay --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins I used the regular water based clay and it worked fine you just have to seal it with the mold release and do your lay ups before it dries and cracks, once the wet lay up is on it won't dry out at least not before the fiberglass epoxy resin cures. I bought 25# for $12 still have about 203 you can have for free, come and get it. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, Flying. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Kells [mailto:ernest.kells@sympatico.ca] Subject: RV-List: Modeling Clay --> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" First question: I have decided to make my own intersection fairings. Instead of the oil-based modeling clay mentioned by Vans and the archives for the molds, has anyone tried the normal (water-based) modeling clay that is readily available - and cheap? First, I am considering mixing a food-grade oil into the clay, replacing the water - stirring well in small batches for each fairing. Second, I am considering laying up the water-based clay, then rubbing a coating of oil on the surface for no sticking. Would one of these methods work?? Working with fiber-glass is a little bit of hell on Earth. Second question: I would like to repair a few riveting dings. Would resin mixed with flox - or milled fiber work after really roughing up the skin? I understand that it would dry very hard. Although sanding may be really tough, I only have very few of these so this wouldn't be a problem. It would be great to hide these very few errors with something that won't shrink, crack, fall off, etc. Thanks. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 85% Complete RE: RV-List: Modeling Clay I used the regular water based clay and it worked fine you just have to seal it with the mold release and do your lay ups before it dries and cracks, once the wet lay up is on it won't dry out at least not before the fiberglass epoxy resin cures. I bought 25# for $12 still have about 203 you can have for free, come and get it. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, Flying. -----Original Message----- From: Ernest Kells [mailto:ernest.kells@sympatico.ca] Subject: RV-List: Modeling Clay -- RV-List message posted by: Ernest Kells ernest.kells@sympatico.ca First question: I have decided to make my own intersection fairings. Instead of the oil-based modeling clay mentioned by Vans and the archives for the molds, has anyone tried the normal (water-based) modeling clay that is readily available - and cheap? First, I am considering mixing a food-grade oil into the clay, replacing the water - stirring well in small batches for each fairing. Second, I am considering laying up the water-based clay, then rubbing a coating of oil on the surface for no sticking. Would one of these methods work?? Working with fiber-glass is a little bit of hell on Earth. Second question: I would like to repair a few riveting dings. Would resin mixed with flox - or milled fiber work after really roughing up the skin? I understand that it would dry very hard. Although sanding may be really tough, I only have very few of these so this wouldn't be a problem. It would be great to hide these very few errors with something that won't shrink, crack, fall off, etc. Thanks. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 85% Complete ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:06:48 AM PST US From: Lenleg@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com Larry: Congrats!!! Take care of all the minors squawks and fly safe .. and have FUN !!! Len Leggette RV-8A N901LL Greensboro, N.C. 24 hours !! ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:09:05 AM PST US From: "Ernest Kells" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Priming --> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" I strongly agree with Bob's attached comments. I have used Dupont's epoxy primer on all internal parts, including homemade clips, etc. In the current Sport Aviation is the 2nd part of an article on bringing a Beechcraft Bonanza up to current. There is an eye-opening picture with the skins off. It looks like someone raked dead leaves over it - brown rash EVERYWHERE. It's an older model - but I wouldn't ride in a plane with 1/10 that corrosion. In the past I don't think that manufacturers expected ANY plane would last a half century. Today, with modern paints, there is no reason why EVERY plane could not last much longer. Of course, do not archive Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop Finish Kit 85% Complete ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Re:Priming > --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com > > The true craftsman primes all parts with an epoxy type primer to prevent > corrosion in places you cannot see. > I primed all my parts prior to assembly with NAPA Vinyl Wash Primer ( A two > part , self etching primer ). I will never worry about not being able to see > inside . > That first step from 13.5 is a LOOOONG one ! > do not archive > Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor > RV-4 , N1191X > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:00 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: RV-List: Autogas + water = ice = no fuel flow --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Jim & Tim- Thanks for the great info- 2 questions: 1. Other than sumping the tanks, what is the "test for water" procedure you speak of? 2. Any ideas if any of the commercially available fuel anti-ice products might be useful prophylactics for icing (I'm am not familiar with them, just heard of 'em) or would the tank sealant/hoses/seals etc. object with unpleasant results? Anybody used any of this stuff? From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips - 6A > > .> 20/20 hindsight: > > - ANY sign of water in autogas is dangerous in the winter -- ice. > > Water in any gas is dangerous. Water, and unknowns, can be found in avgas, > as well. That's why we're supposed to test for water before flights and > after filling up with gas. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:21 AM PST US From: Tedd McHenry Subject: Re: RV-List: Charlie Kuss (engines) --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry > I also want constant speed prop capability. Using a PSRU means wood or composite props ONLY. There are PSRUs that allow you to use a Hartzell CS prop. A friend has one on his Spitfire replica. However, I think it's a gear drive, which I know you're not so keen on. If you like I can find out more about it for you. Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC -6 wings ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:52:56 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Rockets vs Van's From: "Bob Japundza" --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Japundza" >How will insurance costs differ...RV versus F1? Larry, Yearly insurance costs will be a little more than double what I'm paying now. On the other side of that, the hull value is much higher so it comes as no surprise. I've been quoted around $2500/yr. Ouch. This is because of the high rate of claims on the HR2...that's an entirely different subject which I won't get into here. Hopefully it will go down somewhat as more F1's get airborne. Ironically, I believe I will only a few thousand $$ more into the completion of this airplane than my RV-6. The engines and props at the moment are in greater supply than 4-cyl engines, I was able to get some good deals on the engine and prop. Its all a balancing act. Bob ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:54:18 AM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Fw: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Larry, Congratulations!!!!!!!!!! I wish you many thousands of hours more. The RV-4 is a dream come true for many of us, myself included. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Hawkins Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight > --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins > > RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear skies > over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even > though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I > owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years but > mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help. > Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING" > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:07:16 AM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Larry, CONGRATULATIONS & WELL DONE !!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: Larry Hawkins >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: "'RV List'" >Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight >Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 06:43:45 -0700 > >--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins > >RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear >skies >over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even >though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I >owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years >but >mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help. >Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING" > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:24:16 AM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: Rapco Vac Pump Mount questions --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Hi Gary, A homegrown solution is to modify a 7/16 box end wrench by cutting open the end of the boxend to slip over the stud and putting a right angle bend (requires heating) in the shank of the wrench about 2" from the center of the boxend. This will allow the long part of the shank to pass between the pump and the oil filter. Hope this helps. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A FWF WCruiser1@aol.com wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: WCruiser1@aol.com > > I am working on installing my rapco vac pump on the aux mount of my O-360 and > have not figured out how to tighten the lower corner nut closest to the > centerline of the engine. With the pump diameter larger than the mount > pattern, you have to tighten the nuts from the side (no socket access) > however the oil filter, temerature control, and tach drive are imediated > adjacent to the lower corner attachement. > > Any advise would be greately appreciated. > > Gary Gembala > > RV8A > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:28:38 AM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re:Water+Autogas=ice=no Gas --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com I have used a mixture of auto regular and 100LL and have had NO water problems . Of course I strain everything through a funnel with a screen fine enough to reject water . NOTHING goes into my tanks - except through that funnel . Really cheap insurance . I check each barrel of auto gas for alcohol too. RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now Charleston, Arkansas ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:48:20 AM PST US From: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" Subject: RE: RV-List: (apology) --> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" He did use an emoticon but most apparently missed it. Thus written by a man who inserts much humor into his email WITHOUT the use of emoticons. Most people miss my humor too. Yet, I still do not stop. Do not archive -- Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA Network Manager Union Safe Deposit Bank 209-946-5116 -----Original Message----- From: Eric Borduas [mailto:eborduas@lycos.com] Subject: RE: RV-List: (apology) --> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Borduas" >>I've found that humour rarely works in email, unless you're a very good writer, >>except with someone you've already met face-to-face. I'm not a good enough >>writer, so I avoid it. The difficulty with expressing emotions is exactly the reason why emoticons (smilies) came about. E.g: :), :( ;}, and many others. ERic -7 | -9? ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:49:52 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection. Mike R. Do Not Archive >From: WPAerial@aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have an >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-) > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike. > >Jerry Wilken >Albany Oregon >N699WP S/N 23776 >1056 lb. >2014 hours build time to date. > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:17:27 AM PST US From: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Charlie Kuss (engines) --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Hi All, MT-Propeller makes a very nice electric constant speed propeller. I just received one for my LOM engine. They put together a very complete propeller system package (based on what I've received.). Jim Ayers RV-3 N47RV sn 50 LOM M332A engine ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:26:07 AM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection. Tracy Crook Mazda 13B powered RV-4 Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected. > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection. > > Mike R. > > Do Not Archive > > > >From: WPAerial@aol.com > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > >To: rv-list@matronics.com > >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx > >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > > > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have an > >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-) > > > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike. > > > >Jerry Wilken > >Albany Oregon > >N699WP S/N 23776 > >1056 lb. > >2014 hours build time to date. > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:43:32 AM PST US From: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Electric Constant Speed Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Hi All, After spending my week at Oshkosh this year looking for a replacement propeller for my present electric CS prop, I found the booth for MT-Propeller. Yea. I know. They make "aerobatic" propellers, which make the airplane fly slower. I read that on the RV-list. Recently. So it must be true. :-) However, if you request a "cruise" propeller, you'll get a very efficient cruise propeller. (For you "Missouri technical" people, I'll have actual performance numbers soon. :-) ) MT-Propeller uses a questionnaire to determine the appropriate propeller for each application. (I have already filled out a couple of questionnaires for individuals on the RV-list that have E-mailed me directly.) The questionnaire does NOT order the propeller. The questionnaire is used to identify the propeller hub and blade design, which match the data provided on the questionnaire. The propeller model and blade designation is provided with a price list of the "propeller system". Jim Ayers Less Drag Products, Inc. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 08:52:03 AM PST US From: "Gordon Lomoth" Subject: RV-List: countersinking spar on RV7 wings --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Lomoth" Hello I am starting to countersink the flange for the nutplates that hold the fuel tank skins to the spar. I am using a piece of aluminum behind the spar to center the pilot. I have drilled the holes to #19 and am using a #8 screw countersink cutter. The size of the countersinks seem quite large to me and was wondering how wide other peoples countersinks may be? I know that they are deeper than the flange so thats why I used the aluminum behind it. When I use a test dimple, also #8 the countersinks seem larger than they should. Anybody else out there with this problem? Thanks in advance Gordon Lomoth Kitchener, Ontario Rv7 wings The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 08:58:15 AM PST US From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" Subject: RV-List: width of fuselage --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" Can anyone please tell me how wide the widest part of an RV-7 fuselage is, when it's ready to be moved out of the shop and out to a hanger for installation of the wings, etc? I'm trying to decide which RV to build. KL ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:05:04 AM PST US From: Larry Hawkins Subject: RE: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins Depends on where you're at, Albuquerque FSDO did mine for free, tax dollars at work. The guy was very helpful and easy to deal with. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, flying. -----Original Message----- From: Tracy Crook [mailto:lors01@msn.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection. Tracy Crook Mazda 13B powered RV-4 Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected. > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection. > > Mike R. > > Do Not Archive > > > >From: WPAerial@aol.com > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > >To: rv-list@matronics.com > >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx > >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > > > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have an > >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-) > > > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike. > > > >Jerry Wilken > >Albany Oregon > >N699WP S/N 23776 > >1056 lb. > >2014 hours build time to date. > > > > > > RE: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx Depends on where you're at, Albuquerque FSDO did mine for free, tax dollars at work. The guy was very helpful and easy to deal with. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, flying. -----Original Message----- From: Tracy Crook [mailto:lors01@msn.com] Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx -- RV-List message posted by: Tracy Crook lors01@msn.com Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection. Tracy Crook Mazda 13B powered RV-4 Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected. -- RV-List message posted by: Mike Robertson mrobert569@hotmail.com Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection. Mike R. Do Not Archive From: WPAerial@aol.com Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST -- RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have an airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-) Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike. Jerry Wilken Albany Oregon N699WP S/N 23776 1056 lb. 2014 hours build time to date. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:32:26 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" It is up to individual offices and their workload. Nation wide the FAA is down on inspectors and because of the redirect of funds to the TSA their is a freeze on hiring with some exceptions. Mike Robertson Do Not Archive >From: "Tracy Crook" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx >Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2002 11:31:12 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" > > >Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the >FAA >was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked >to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to >pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection. > >Tracy Crook >Mazda 13B powered RV-4 >Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected. > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > > > Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection. > > > > Mike R. > > > > Do Not Archive > > > > > > >From: WPAerial@aol.com > > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > > >To: rv-list@matronics.com > > >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx > > >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST > > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > > > > > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have >an > > >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-) > > > > > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike. > > > > > >Jerry Wilken > > >Albany Oregon > > >N699WP S/N 23776 > > >1056 lb. > > >2014 hours build time to date. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:45:21 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: width of fuselage --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I measured 43 5/16" exterior width at the widest point. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (fuselage) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" Subject: RV-List: width of fuselage > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" > > Can anyone please tell me how wide the widest part of an RV-7 fuselage is, when it's ready to be moved out of the shop and out to a hanger for installation of the wings, etc? > > I'm trying to decide which RV to build. > > KL > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:55:34 AM PST US From: Jim Truitt Subject: RV-List: weight of Hooker Harnesses --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt I have Hooker harnesses for my 8A, five point, with shoulder and lap pads, pull tabs, and military style latch. Weight of both is about 9 pounds - hard to be exact on my bathroom scales, but should be close. ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 10:23:15 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Howdy 'list- Somebody's website has a color graphic of Van's standard airfoil showing pressure gradients around it in flight- some kind of wind tunnel test results, I believe. I know I had it but it's buried somewhere on my well-organized hard drive. 8-( If someone could send me a link (or the file) I would appreciate it! Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-) From The PossumWorks in TN Mark - do not archive - ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 10:42:35 AM PST US From: Rob Prior Subject: Re: RV-List: Engines...somewhat long! --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior Jim Duckett wrote: > To adress the "Alternative Engine Cost" of $8000 ready to run, I'll give > Re-Sale prices here. > 4.3L (262ci) 230HP Chevrolet 4300 V-6 Marine Vortec $1600 > Carb, Manifold, and Leaning block $ 550 > Redundant MSD Ignition system $ 700 > Dampener, Pulleys, Flexplate, Brackets, etc. $ 500 > Average cost of PSRU $4000 > 12 hours to inspect and assemble @$65/Hr. $ 780 > > Total $7980 > > If you figure our actual cost (being a stocking shop) and our actual > cost of labor, yes, we can build a dang good powerplant assembly for 8 > grand! Fair enough, but if I worked for Superior Air Parts I could probably buy all the components at cost for a percentage of their kit price, too. I may even be able to get some of the guys in the shop to assemble it for me for a case of beer (delivered *after* assembly, of course... 8-). We don't all have access to someone willing to cut their profits on parts just to sell us an engine. Or are you suggesting that you would be willing to sell anyone who called you a running engine for $8000? > Even if you build a full aluminum auto engine with every "trick part > under the sun"and charge out every bit of labor and machining you still > come in around $14,000 with PSRU, and you can make 230-250 HP with > excellent reliability and longevity and be around 100# lighter than the Lyc. This is the claim i've heard from *every* auto conversion manufacturer, and it's still only a bunch of predictions. Nobody has *done* it. Yet. I'm not saying it *can't* be done. I'm saying it *hasn't* been done. I would like nothing more than to put an engine in my RV-7 (when I get that far) for $8000 that gives me 230-250hp, 100# lighter than a Lycoming, inverted and aerobatic capable, reliable, and with a 2000 hour expected TBO. But that product does not exist. > Who knows, I may win a new 200HP angle valve in a raffle and this will > go down as a good discussion topic. It's always a good discussion topic, Jim... If it ends up with a new engine on the market that meets a great price point, then i'm all for it... 8-) > Jim Duckett, sissy nose wheeling, chevy thinking RV-7A Oh, and the nosewheel will require an even more complex engine mount, and you'll have less room inside the engine compartment, and... 8-) -RB4 RV7 Empennage Do not archive ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 10:50:44 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: RV-List: width of fuselage --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Dan Checkoway wrote: > I measured 43 5/16" exterior width at the widest point. ...or about .001100139611 kilometers..................... Ooops, sorry!! 8-) such a frivolous - do not archive - waste of bandwidth!!! Mark ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 11:07:13 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: width of fuselage --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I forgot you need to add a few inches because the bottom center skin protrudes out. Say 48" to be safe. )_( Dan do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" Subject: Re: RV-List: width of fuselage > --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips > > Dan Checkoway wrote: > > > I measured 43 5/16" exterior width at the widest point. > > ...or about .001100139611 kilometers..................... > > Ooops, sorry!! 8-) > such a frivolous - do not archive - waste of bandwidth!!! > > Mark > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 11:18:40 AM PST US From: "Pete Bodie" Subject: Re: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve --> RV-List message posted by: "Pete Bodie" Had the same problem yesterday. Screw in a longer screw and tap on it with a hammer. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" Subject: RV-List: Airfoil Diagram & Van's Fuel Valve > --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips > > Howdy 'list- > > Somebody's website has a color graphic of Van's standard airfoil showing > pressure gradients around it in flight- some kind of wind tunnel test > results, I believe. I know I had it but it's buried somewhere on my > well-organized hard drive. 8-( If someone could send me a link (or > the file) I would appreciate it! > > Also, how do ya get the &%@*! handle off of Vans standard fuel valve > without destroying it? -yes, I HAVE removed the screw! 8-) > > From The PossumWorks in TN > Mark - do not archive - > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 11:30:38 AM PST US From: "Francis Malczynski" Subject: RE: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" That is really great, congratulations on your first flight.. Fran Malczynski RV6 - N594EF, (still test flying, weather not co-operating) Olcott, NY -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Hawkins Subject: RV-List: N-345SL makes first flight --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Hawkins RV-4 N345SL made it's first flight on Sunday morning in the cool clear skies over Farmington NM. It was great, landing was easier than I expected even though my approach was too fast, these airplanes don't want to slow down. I owe thanks to many on the list for help and encouragement over the years but mostly to my good friend Mike Talovich who is always there to help. Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, "FLYING" ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 12:03:10 PM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: countersinking spar on RV7 wings --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com The way I check machined countersinks is to gradually adjust the cutter depth until a test dimple in a piece of scrap material the same thickness as the overlying skin just fits flush in the countersink. Another thing you need to watch is that even a backup plate unless it is securely clamped in position will allow the cutter pilot to wobble and cut uneven and oversized holes. This works for me, hope it helps In a message dated 12/9/02 8:53:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, rv7canuck@hotmail.com writes: << --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Lomoth" Hello I am starting to countersink the flange for the nutplates that hold the fuel tank skins to the spar. I am using a piece of aluminum behind the spar to center the pilot. I have drilled the holes to #19 and am using a #8 screw countersink cutter. The size of the countersinks seem quite large to me and was wondering how wide other peoples countersinks may be? I know that they are deeper than the flange so thats why I used the aluminum behind it. When I use a test dimple, also #8 the countersinks seem larger than they should. Anybody else out there with this problem? Thanks in advance Gordon Lomoth >> Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, electrical (still) ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 12:48:41 PM PST US From: "Stephen Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: countersinking spar on RV7 wings --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" That's basically what I did. I got some 1/8" x 1" aluminum strips from Home Depot and made templates by drilling to #19 after I had drilled the holes in the spar to #19. I just attached the templates using #8 flat screws and nuts and clecoes through the platenut holes. When I finished countersinking, I had barely touched the aluminum backplate. You don't want to use an air drill here. I used a battery powered drill set to the slower of the two possible speeds. I also used cutting fluid available from Cleaveland. Steve Johnson RV-8 #80121 fuse ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon Lomoth" Subject: RV-List: countersinking spar on RV7 wings > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Lomoth" > > Hello > > I am starting to countersink the flange for the nutplates that hold the fuel > tank skins to the spar. I am using a piece of aluminum behind the spar to > center the pilot. I have drilled the holes to #19 and am using a #8 screw > countersink cutter. The size of the countersinks seem quite large to me and > was wondering how wide other peoples countersinks may be? I know that they > are deeper than the flange so thats why I used the aluminum behind it. When > I use a test dimple, also #8 the countersinks seem larger than they should. > Anybody else out there with this problem? > > Thanks in advance > > Gordon Lomoth > Kitchener, Ontario > Rv7 wings ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 01:53:00 PM PST US From: "Bert Forero" Subject: RV-List: canopy frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" hello: I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does not fit well with one side of the fuselage. I am trying to bend to fit better, instead what I did was to make it worst. Any suggestions, any one out there had any problem with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend this steel tube... waiting for some reply ,,, thanks much bert rv6a Do Not Archive Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 02:25:38 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Priming --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Yeah, but you could make the same point about a nosewheel. :>) Dave do not archive WPAerial@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > > i am sorry but priming really dose not mean someone is a TRUE craftsmen just > means they took extra time to prime. makes more weight, takes more time, and > for what? > ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 02:49:26 PM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" I just went through that whole mess. I finally put the forward face of the slider frame on the garage floor, stood on it and muscled the center brace to the side - it needed to move over an inch. The two "poker" inserts are not level with each other (but the blocks can be drilled at different levels to compensate). Then I could work the rear bow. It fits - enough that I'm satisfied with it...but it should have fit better out of the box - especially with a QB! Ralph Capen Waiting for warm weather for the plexi... On 9 Dec 2002 21:51:11 -0000 Bert Forero wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" > > hello: > > I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does > not > fit well with one side of the fuselage. > > I am trying to bend to fit better, instead > what > I did was to make it worst. > > Any suggestions, any one out there had any > problem > with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend > this > steel tube... > > waiting for some reply ,,, > thanks much > > > bert > rv6a > > Do Not Archive > > > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars > a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com > > > Month -- > Gifts!) > Click on the > about this > your generous > the Contributions > ads or any other > Forums. > latest messages. > other List members. > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/search > Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 03:18:01 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes From: czechsix@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Guys, Is anyone out there using Princeton capacitive fuel level probes? Grand Rapids Technologies is selling them with their EIS engine monitor, and they are available pre-bent to fit the RV tanks so I'm assuming there must be some in service. Any comments pro or con? I already have the Stewart Warner float senders but am thinking about getting the capacitive probes and putting them in before my wings are permanently mounted. They are more expensive at $95 each but if it saves me *ever* having to pull them out for replacement it's probly worthwhile. I know it can be done but in my case it will be worse on the left wing since I have my fuel pump and gascolator in the wing root area... Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D fiberglass... ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 04:49:28 PM PST US From: "William Davis" Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" Tracy, A few are still being done out of the Orlando office by Al Kimbal. I don't know if you could get him to go all of the way to Bell. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" > > > Anyone know the current status on FAA inspections? I had heard that the FAA > was not going to do this anymore and refered all requests to DARs. Talked > to a builder a few days ago who was shocked by the $1000 fee that he had to > pay a designee for his Airworthiness inspection. > > Tracy Crook > Mazda 13B powered RV-4 > Mazda 20B powered RV-8, soon (?) to be inspected. > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > > > Thanks for the kind words. It was my pleasure to do the inspection. > > > > Mike R. > > > > Do Not Archive > > > > > > >From: WPAerial@aol.com > > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > > >To: rv-list@matronics.com > > >Subject: RV-List: inspection good experience - thx > > >Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2002 23:33:50 EST > > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > > > > > >Had Mike Robertson FAA rep here in Oregon inspect my RV6A today. I have > an > > >airplane after 6 yr. 8 MO.:-) > > > > > >Had a real good experience. Thankyou Mike. > > > > > >Jerry Wilken > > >Albany Oregon > > >N699WP S/N 23776 > > >1056 lb. > > >2014 hours build time to date. > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 05:15:58 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Bert, To bend the Large diameter tubes I made a holder for the bench vise. I used two pieces of 2X4 About 4" long. I clamped the 4" faces of them together in the vice. I drilled them across the grain with a large enough drill so that when opened they could be put around the tube and clamped in the vise. This allowed me to use solid force enough to be able to tweak/bend the roll over bar/windshield by myself. I used shop rags folded to use as cushions so as to avoid denting the bar while bending. It would will be wise as well to use a rasp to soften the outermost edges of the "2X4 clamp" to help avoid these dents. For bending the smaller canopy frame tubes while in place on the airframe I made a portable bender that incorporates the use of carpenters bar clamp. I cut 4, 4" lengths of 2X4. Again I drilled them across the grain in the vise. Two of these pieces where screwed to the ends of a longer piece of 2X4. so that the grooves in them would lay parallel to the length of the 2X4. One of the remaining pieces of 2X4 can then be used as the opposing clamp face for this awkward but effective tube bender. Again the outer edges of the grooves should be softened with a rasp or coarse file. Hold the carpentry clamp and the longer 2X4 part centered against area of the tube you want to bend put the short 2X4 piece opposite and tighten the clamp. This whole arrangement sounds and is somewhat awkward but it worked for me. The smallest, rear canopy tubes where bent by hand. To do this I found myself doing a combination dance, Sumo wrestling and exercise that had me simultaneously laughing and cursing. Lots of luck, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bert Forero" Subject: RV-List: canopy frame > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" > > hello: > > I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does not > fit well with one side of the fuselage. > > I am trying to bend to fit better, instead what > I did was to make it worst. > > Any suggestions, any one out there had any problem > with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend this > steel tube... > > waiting for some reply ,,, > thanks much > > > bert > rv6a > > Do Not Archive > > > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com > > ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 05:22:55 PM PST US From: "Dick DeCramer" Subject: RV-List: Re: RV6 S-cowl Dave Ford --> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" Dave.. I am just finishing my baffles. The way I read the instructions the area behind the spinner is to be sealed and I am in the process of doing that now but have not succeeded yet. The fiberglass ducts on the underside of the top cowl have been trimmed to fit between the side baffles and the center baffles. The ducts have a very small space (1/4") between them and the baffles to allow the rubber seal to pass as the top cowl is being installed in position. This may be enlarged later for fit as the rubber seals have not been installed yet. My cowl ducts are, at this point only clecoed in position so they are still moveable. I don't know if this is the proper way to do this but that is where I am now. It appears like the seal around the nose of the cowl will not be super tight like the rest of the baffles but I am trying. Dick DeCramer RV 6 Northfield, MN ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 05:38:21 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Haven't used them. The EIS folks said the Van's cap. Senders, which I have installed, would work with their instrument too. Just need a converter/adapter thingy. I don't remember the details at this point. I'll have to revisit those details and order them soon. I already have the EIS. - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of > czechsix@juno.com > Sent: Monday, December 09, 2002 6:16 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Princeton capacitive fuel level probes > > > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > Guys, > > Is anyone out there using Princeton capacitive fuel level > probes? Grand Rapids Technologies is selling them with their > EIS engine monitor, and they are available pre-bent to fit > the RV tanks so I'm assuming there must be some in service. > Any comments pro or con? I already have the Stewart Warner > float senders but am thinking about getting the capacitive > probes and putting them in before my wings are permanently > mounted. They are more expensive at $95 each but if it saves > me *ever* having to pull them out for replacement it's probly > worthwhile. I know it can be done but in my case it will be > worse on the left wing since I have my fuel pump and > gascolator in the wing root area... > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D fiberglass... ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 08:12:09 PM PST US From: "Randall Henderson" Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy frame --> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Henderson" > I am stuck; the frame for my canopy does not > fit well with one side of the fuselage. > > I am trying to bend to fit better, instead what > I did was to make it worst. > > Any suggestions, any one out there had any problem > with this? how was fixed... is hard to bend this > steel tube... Picture a flowchart that goes: 1) Bend tube 2) Better? go to step 4. Otherwise 3) Worse? Go to step 1. Otherwise 4) Still not quite right? Go to step 1. Otherwise 5) You're done. If the you haven't made it to step 5 at the end of a week, you're still not alone -- keep trying. And no I'm not even really trying to be sarcastic. I spent close to a week of evenings on that. Read the other posts for suggestions on how to bend the thing (and hit the archives if you cant get enough of that.) Also I believe it was issue 5 2002 of the RVator that had a good write-up on it by Scott McDaniels. Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~450 hrs) Portland, OR www.vanshomewing.org ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 08:27:44 PM PST US From: "Norman" Subject: Re: RV-List: Single Strobe Power Supply Source? --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" > Has anyone found an acceptable, reasonably-priced Strobe Power Supply Source > for single tail strobe? I have searched archives w/o success for alternative > source. Thanks for your help. When I researched strobes and what power supplies (read brightness) put out, I found that you get what you pay for. I then noticed that some small planes had strobes that were much brighter than others. The lessor of the ones I saw in flight weren't effective very far but yet I was able to notice stobe flashes on some planes at very great distances. I then bought the Whelens from ACS for big bucks. Ho hum...... Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 09:16:00 PM PST US From: "Norman" Subject: RV-List: Contact Cement --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" snip > I also put in the Targa strip with Velcro. I used contact cement on my first RV-6A, but was not happy with the long term results. The contact cement would not hold up and over time would come apart from the metal. So on the new RV-6A I'm building, I'm planning on holding the Velcro in place with a metal strip and pop rivets. The Velcro will be help in place on the under side of the instrument panel in the same manner...... snip For the record, this builder is talking about a cover over the backs of his instrunments and radios where I believe most people are calling a Targa Strip a custom made piece that covers the split between the two canopy pieces on a RV6, RV7, or RV9. I would like to add a comment from my seat maker that he told me last week. (Happy Ho Langley BC) I was out at his shop looking for a piece of material to cover the top of my glairsheild. He mentioned to be carefull to use high temperature contact cement for any area where the sun can bake the upolstery. I had no idea there were different types. I went to Home Depot and sure enough they had the 3M High Strength V90 that Mr Ho had shown me in his shop. Now some builders from the past will recall that I have been promoting the use of nothing but non flamable products within the cockpit. Now I am in a state of conflict with contact cement. The stuff is available from many manufactors with a water base that is very low flamable where the regular stuff and certainly the V90 is highly flammable. I once had to prep a Mercedes for a TV show that would jump several other cars and have a big crash while on fire. We bought a one gallon can of contact cement and poured it all over the car just as the cameras began to roll. A friend of mine used a small torch and lit it then the stunt driver floored it and we jumped out of the way. He got to 45 mph before he hit the pipe ramp and was majorly on fire the whole way. Wasn't the safest day for any of us but no one was hurt and we got a great shot. The car was a fire ball to the camera but we were actually controlling where the fire was by using a thick grade of contact cement. We were successfull in containing the fire to the exterior of the car. So I will use the high strength only on the glair sheild where the black covering is going to create a very hard duty. Everything else will be done with the water based stuff. The last thing I want is my upolstery falling apart in the first year. Or the second for that matter..... The moral of this post is to be aware that there are many different types of glues out there. Some contact cements will work better than others. Seasons greatings from Norman Hunger and familly. Do not archive ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 09:18:46 PM PST US From: "Stephen Johnson" Subject: RV-List: Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" I just found out my new Lycoming engine is in town. The catch is that the truck doesn't have a lift gate to unload the engine. I have a portable engine crane and five of the nylon tiedowns that I used to pull the wing skins into position. I don't want to take it out of the box since it's packed for long term storage. I'm thinking it won't be a big deal to rig up something when the truck arrives to lower it about four feet onto a cart I have. Am I wrong? Steve Johnson RV-8 #80121 ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 09:33:16 PM PST US From: "Norman" Subject: Re: RV-List: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just > lace it together and let it dangle? Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage side skins like my RV6A? I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in the J-stringers. A few holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they are very secure. I used Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads. Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:58 PM PST US From: DvdBock@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Single strobe power supply --> RV-List message posted by: DvdBock@aol.com Thanks for your help. I contacted Louis there. ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 10:31:21 PM PST US From: "Norman" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" > By the way, it was sub-20F when I started the airplane this morning. It cranked right off. I had a $12 heating pad on the battery, two blankets over the cowl, and a couple of trouble lights inside the cowl. How long do you have the trouble lights on for? Overnight? Norman Do not archive ________________________________ Message 51 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:58 PM PST US From: "Norman" Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" Thank-you Gary for the info. > On the front fairing to the windshield: I don't know of anyone who has made the fairing separate from the windshield. Far as I know, everyone lays it up right on the plexi, and bonds it to the windshield. Rough up the 'glass first so it will stick. > How do you get the upper edge of the fairing to have a nice edge? I don't see myself sanding away there with one little slip ruining the windscreen. I thought I would make the fairing removable for just the first three layers, perfect the upper edge, then glue it on and continue glassing on more layers while being carfull to never get too near the top edge. Comments? Norman Hunger RV6A Delta BC Do not archive ________________________________ Message 52 ____________________________________ Time: 10:43:54 PM PST US From: "Norman" Subject: Re: RV-List: baggage floor and platenuts --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" > This is a picky kind of question, but here goes. Those of you that have installed your baggage compartment floor panels with screws/platenuts, what spacing between screws did you use? My thought is to have one at the front and back edges of each panel at each rib and then evenly space two between them. Sound good? Yup (RV6A), it's in my "if I were doing it again" file..... Norman ________________________________ Message 53 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:04 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Floor Details --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Time for the cockpit floor to get finished (RV-6A, btw). The Coleman camping foam is already cut and two layers glued to fit between the stiffener angles and the somewhat fire-resistant carpet is ready to cut to fit. Can anyone with a few hours flying comment on the need for any additional stiffening or reinforcement material between the foam and the carpet ? How about "heel scuff plates" as mentioned in the archives occasionally.? My thinking is to provide a smooth, flat surface to lay the carpet on (attached with velcro strips or whatever) and provide a firmer surface to step on when getting in. Probably won't be too many ladies with spike heels or similar getting in but something fairly substantial seems needed; .025 alum seems too thin, 040 or greater would work but seems heavy. I am thinking about something like 1/4" ply or 1/8" hardboard cut to fit around the battery box and miss the various tits of fuel and brake line at the edges of the floor. Salvaged airliner honeycomb floor would be notice but is not likely to happen. Scuff plates would be strategically placed alum rectangles riveted to the carpet under the rudder pedals. So, useful items or just more unnecessary weight ?? Jim Oke Winnipeg, MB RV-6A (wings on - only 30 inaccessible $%&* nuts left to tighten)