Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:19 AM - Re: Contact Cement (George McNutt)
2. 12:53 AM - Re: Cockpit Floor Details (Jim Jewell)
3. 01:13 AM - Re: Contact Cement (Jim Jewell)
4. 01:23 AM - Re: Seats & Cockpit Floor Details (George McNutt)
5. 03:03 AM - Headphones (Jim Nolan)
6. 04:05 AM - Re: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's (Kyle Boatright)
7. 04:34 AM - Re: Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck (Mark Phillips)
8. 05:16 AM - Re: Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck (glenn williams)
9. 05:21 AM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (glenn williams)
10. 05:25 AM - Engine installation (Rick Galati)
11. 05:32 AM - Re: Engine installation (glenn williams)
12. 05:34 AM - Avionics (Paul Brown)
13. 05:45 AM - Re: Engine installation (KAKlewin@aol.com)
14. 05:57 AM - Re: Avionics (barry pote)
15. 06:08 AM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (Miller Robert)
16. 06:16 AM - Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? (glenn williams)
17. 06:16 AM - Re:Water+Autogas=ice=no Gas (Bruce Anthony)
18. 06:20 AM - Engine for sale 0 320 E3D (TColeE@aol.com)
19. 06:39 AM - Re: Avionics (Jim Norman)
20. 06:47 AM - Re: Engine installation (Richard Dudley)
21. 06:55 AM - Re: Avionics (Richard Dudley)
22. 07:21 AM - Re: Avionics (David Lundquist)
23. 07:37 AM - Re: Avionics (Dave)
24. 07:55 AM - Re: Re: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) (Sam Buchanan)
25. 08:04 AM - Maui (Bruce Knoll)
26. 08:15 AM - Piper Pitot Facts (Rob Miller)
27. 08:22 AM - Re: Priming (That was not corrosion) (P M Condon)
28. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) (Jeff Point)
29. 10:30 AM - Canopy crack :-( (Chris Good)
30. 11:09 AM - Re: Canopy crack :-( (Jeff Point)
31. 11:20 AM - Builder Locator Database (Matthew Mucker)
32. 11:23 AM - How to buck two dag-bern rivets (Dan Checkoway)
33. 12:03 PM - Re: Piper Pitot Facts (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
34. 12:13 PM - Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets (glenn williams)
35. 12:16 PM - Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (John Helms)
36. 02:09 PM - Fw: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (C. Rabaut)
37. 02:32 PM - Re: Engines...somewhat long! (Dr. Leathers)
38. 03:01 PM - Feedback on Finding an Oil Leak (Dean Pichon)
39. 03:02 PM - Re: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (John Helms)
40. 03:31 PM - Fw: You're welcome (C. Rabaut)
41. 03:42 PM - Fw: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (C. Rabaut)
42. 04:13 PM - Re: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (John)
43. 04:16 PM - Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets (Jeff Orear)
44. 04:23 PM - Re: Fw: You're welcome (Dr. Leathers)
45. 04:51 PM - ACS2002 price jump (Dan Checkoway)
46. 04:58 PM - Fw: Fw: You're welcome (C. Rabaut)
47. 04:59 PM - Fw: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (C. Rabaut)
48. 05:02 PM - Re: Fw: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (Sam Buchanan)
49. 05:07 PM - Re: Fw: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long (Smcm75@aol.com)
50. 05:27 PM - Re: Fw: You're welcome (John Starn)
51. 05:33 PM - How do you put a tire and tube together. (cecilth@juno.com)
52. 05:43 PM - Re: ACS2002 price jump (Stephen Johnson)
53. 06:28 PM - Re: How do you put a tire and tube together. (Larry Pardue)
54. 06:31 PM - Re: Piper Pitot Facts (Kevin Horton)
55. 06:54 PM - Navaid auto pilot (PASSPAT@aol.com)
56. 06:57 PM - Re: ACS2002 price jump (RobHickman@aol.com)
57. 07:11 PM - Re: How do you put a tire and tube together. (Stephen Johnson)
58. 07:14 PM - Re: ACS2002 price jump (Bobby Hester)
59. 08:01 PM - Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets (KDMIGAS@aol.com)
60. 08:16 PM - Fw: Re: Weight of Hooker Harnesses for RV-8/A? (czechsix@juno.com)
61. 08:49 PM - Re: How do you put a tire and tube together. (Eustace Bowhay)
62. 10:23 PM - Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets (kempthornes)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
snip
> I also put in the Targa strip with Velcro. I used contact cement on my
Now some builders from the past will recall that I have been promoting the
use of nothing but non flamable products within the cockpit. Now I am in a
state of conflict with contact cement. The stuff is available from many
manufactors with a water base that is very low flamable where the regular
stuff and certainly the V90 is highly flammable.
--------------------------------
Hi Norman
Are you worried about in shop use during construction or in flight use, I
would think that it is not that flammable after it has dried and all the
solvent has dissolved. A flammability test of the dry V90 might be in order.
George in Langley
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Floor Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Jim,
Awhile back Mike Nellis kindly put some drawings and pictures of my approach
to the cabin foot well floors. these can be found at:
http://bmnellis.com/BuilderIdeas/JimJewellIdeas.htm
I felt then that this approach served the purpose of providing some extra
floor area strength with the least added weight that I could devise. the
added foor strength is surprising! The total weight of the various non Vans
designed aircraft parts weighed in at less than six pounds including extra
rivets, screws and nut plates. The added appearance of a clean uncluttered
floor area is a bonus.
I thought that having the floors built removable and integral to the air
frame to a must. the insulation that vans sells will be attached to the
underside of the floors. This will provide heat and sound dampening and keep
the hull frame work open to air movement. I would rather not provide places
for condensation to be trapped if at all possible.
This did represent extra effort and ate up extra days of build time. If I
build again I will do it again and basically the same. since the pictures
where taken I added additional floor trim parts and heel scuff plates.
I think that if your upper forward section is riveted in place this would be
a hard addition to accomplish.
If you want more information let me know.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Floor Details
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> Time for the cockpit floor to get finished (RV-6A, btw). The Coleman
camping foam is already cut and two layers glued to fit between the
stiffener angles and the somewhat fire-resistant carpet is ready to cut to
fit.
>
> Can anyone with a few hours flying comment on the need for any additional
stiffening or reinforcement material between the foam and the carpet ? How
about "heel scuff plates" as mentioned in the archives occasionally.?
>
> My thinking is to provide a smooth, flat surface to lay the carpet on
(attached with velcro strips or whatever) and provide a firmer surface to
step on when getting in. Probably won't be too many ladies with spike heels
or similar getting in but something fairly substantial seems needed; .025
alum seems too thin, 040 or greater would work but seems heavy. I am
thinking about something like 1/4" ply or 1/8" hardboard cut to fit around
the battery box and miss the various tits of fuel and brake line at the
edges of the floor. Salvaged airliner honeycomb floor would be notice but is
not likely to happen.
>
> Scuff plates would be strategically placed alum rectangles riveted to the
carpet under the rudder pedals.
>
> So, useful items or just more unnecessary weight ??
>
> Jim Oke
> Winnipeg, MB
> RV-6A (wings on - only 30 inaccessible $%&* nuts left to tighten)
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Contact Cement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi to George and Norman,
If the material that is glued in place is fire retardant the dried glue
holding it will be sealed off from air supply so it will not readily
combust.
I tend to think that if there is enough heat to cause serious gassing (the
main concern with these types of products) due to excess heat form a fire
source you will already be frying other fish. (g-{
Do try to avoid using materials like poly urethanes etc. in the forward
cabin section. The gases from these materials will do you great harm and are
likely to incapacitate you long before the fire itself.
Bummer topic eh!,.. Canadian for; Bummer topic huh! .....(:-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Contact Cement
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> snip
> > I also put in the Targa strip with Velcro. I used contact cement on my
>
> Now some builders from the past will recall that I have been promoting the
> use of nothing but non flamable products within the cockpit. Now I am in a
> state of conflict with contact cement. The stuff is available from many
> manufactors with a water base that is very low flamable where the regular
> stuff and certainly the V90 is highly flammable.
>
>
> --------------------------------
>
> Hi Norman
>
> Are you worried about in shop use during construction or in flight use, I
> would think that it is not that flammable after it has dried and all the
> solvent has dissolved. A flammability test of the dry V90 might be in
order.
>
> George in Langley
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Seats & Cockpit Floor Details |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Time for the cockpit floor to get finished (RV-6A, btw). The Coleman camping
foam is already cut and two layers glued to fit between the stiffener angles
and the somewhat fire-resistant carpet is ready to cut to fit.
Can anyone with a few hours flying comment on the need for any additional
stiffening or reinforcement material between the foam and the carpet ? How
about "heel scuff plates" as mentioned in the archives occasionally.?
My thinking is to provide a smooth, flat surface to lay the carpet on
(attached with velcro strips or whatever) and provide a firmer surface to
step on when getting in. Probably won't be
------------------------------------
Hi Jim
My experience with my 6A is that I do not step directly on the floor when
getting in/out, the floor is too far forward. I get in by stepping/standing
on the seat and kind of sitting or supporting myself on the seat back, I
have a matching doily to protect seat cushion. Once in this position I slide
down into the seat.
I have these recommendations for builders.
(1)A firm, level, bottom seat cushion, it is easier to stand on.
(2)Rugged upholstery material and strong attachment where the seatback
cushion is attached at the top of the seat back. You will be pushing the
seat back cushion downwards with your back as you lower yourself into the
seat.
(3) Handles on roll bar to assist entry exit.
(4) Watch positioning of pull type controls on botom of instrument panel,
there is a tendency for the cuff of a pantleg to snag protruding controls.
(5)carpeting must be securily attached to the floorboards to prevent your
heels from pushing it forward as you slide down into the seat. There is
quite a bit of weight in your legs and it is applied through your heels to
the flooring as you move or drag your feet forward/aft during entry/exit.
Flooring with less traction (slippery) is better.
(6)Many builders use small wear plates where heels rest on carpet at the
rudder pedals.
On my 6A flooring, I used vinyl, a Boeing (surplus) galley flooring over 1/2
inch felt insulation, my seats are a heavy Boeing surplus fabric like they
use in 747 cockpit seats.
Hope that helps,
Coldest winter of my life, CYWG, 1959, ATC school!
George McNutt
Langley, B.C.
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <JimNolan@kconline.com>
List,
I've got to share this experience in buying headsets with you.
I bought two noise canceling headsets about two and a half months ago
from a place called AvShop in Warsaw Indiana. ( they do mostly internet
business ) I had trouble hearing and the words were distorted. I mailed them
back to the manufacture and they sent me two new sets. ( they were real
understanding ) With the new sets, I found that a squeal developed when I
turned my head sideways.
AvShop has a policy that if you don't like your headsets within a month
that you can take them back and exchange them for a different set. But after
two and a half months they took these back cheerfully and exchanged them for
two non-noise canceling headsets. You don't get service like that very often
and when you've spent $900.00 it makes you feel queasy to think that you're
money was wasted.
Just thought I'd share this experience in case someone needed headsets
without taking a chance on your purchase.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
Warsaw, In.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Yes, overnight. You'd need lots of BTU's to warm a lycoming in less than a
few hours...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6 Slider Air Leaks/Cold weather op's
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
>
> > By the way, it was sub-20F when I started the airplane this morning. It
> cranked right off. I had a $12 heating pad on the battery, two blankets
> over the cowl, and a couple of trouble lights inside the cowl.
>
> How long do you have the trouble lights on for? Overnight?
> Norman
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
I would imagine the engine is strapped to the pallet that is the base for the
box- cut a hole in the top of the box large enough to attach your crane to the
lifting strap, hook it up & hoist away? No idea if this would work, but worth
looking at?
Stephen Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
>
> I just found out my new Lycoming engine is in town. The catch is that the
> truck doesn't have a lift gate to unload the engine. I have a portable
> engine crane and five of the nylon tiedowns that I used to pull the wing
> skins into position. I don't want to take it out of the box since it's
> packed for long term storage. I'm thinking it won't be a big deal to rig up
> something when the truck arrives to lower it about four feet onto a cart I
> have. Am I wrong?
>
> Steve Johnson
> RV-8 #80121
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Unloading new Lycoming from the freight truck |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
you are going to need 4 people when the engine arrives
if you do not have a fork lift. One for each corner. 3
will work as the engine is not that heavy unless you
are very weak. I suspect that since you are building
you probably are not a girly man lol
do not archive
Glenn Williams
A&P Fort Worth
--- Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips
> <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> I would imagine the engine is strapped to the pallet
> that is the base for the
> box- cut a hole in the top of the box large enough
> to attach your crane to the
> lifting strap, hook it up & hoist away? No idea if
> this would work, but worth
> looking at?
>
>
> Stephen Johnson wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson"
> <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
> >
> > I just found out my new Lycoming engine is in
> town. The catch is that the
> > truck doesn't have a lift gate to unload the
> engine. I have a portable
> > engine crane and five of the nylon tiedowns that I
> used to pull the wing
> > skins into position. I don't want to take it out
> of the box since it's
> > packed for long term storage. I'm thinking it
> won't be a big deal to rig up
> > something when the truck arrives to lower it about
> four feet onto a cart I
> > have. Am I wrong?
> >
> > Steve Johnson
> > RV-8 #80121
> >
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
This will work for you as well as all RV types. You
can purchase a "standoff". A standoff is a round 1" to
4" long aluminum tube threaded on the inside for an
adel clamp to anchor your wiring and the base has two
rivet holes to attach it to the anchoring structure. I
would think that Avery or any reputable aircraft tool
supply house will carry these.
do not archive
Glenn Williams
A&P Fort Worth
--- Norman <nhunger@sprint.ca> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman"
> <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire
> goes
> > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
> > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
> > lace it together and let it dangle?
>
> Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage
> side skins like my
> RV6A?
> I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in
> the J-stringers. A few
> holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they
> are very secure. I used
> Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 10
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| Subject: | Engine installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Within the next two weeks or so, I am expecting a factory new Lycoming
0-320-D1A and welcome any tips, advice, or suggestions for avoiding grief or
needless aggravation in hanging the engine on my 6A as soon as possible.
Another words, what prep work is advantageous or needs to be done to the engine
right out of the box, mandatory or otherwise, prior to bolting the powerplant to
the engine mount?
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Engine installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
pretty much nothing other than having the engine mount
bolted and torqued in place. Ensure you have the
correct mounts i.e dynofocal 1 etc. and a good engine
hoist. Follow the manual from Vans and take your time
I think you will find it goes a lot easier than what
you may have been led to believe.
Do not archive
Glenn Williams
A&P Fort Worth
--- Rick Galati <rick07x@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati"
> <rick07x@earthlink.net>
>
>
> Within the next two weeks or so, I am expecting a
> factory new Lycoming
> 0-320-D1A and welcome any tips, advice, or
> suggestions for avoiding grief or
> needless aggravation in hanging the engine on my 6A
> as soon as possible.
> Another words, what prep work is advantageous or
> needs to be done to the engine
> right out of the box, mandatory or otherwise, prior
> to bolting the powerplant to
> the engine mount?
>
>
> --- Rick Galati
>
> --- rick07x@earthlink.net
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
A few years ago, while at SNF, I was talking to a guy on the flight line and he
mentioned that if I ever wanted to buy any avionics for my RV I should check
with a guy in Georgia. He said that this guy had the best prices. Does anyone
know of this place. I'm looking to purchase one of UPS's SL40's. The best price
that I could find, so far, is 1245.00
Paul
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Engine installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: KAKlewin@aol.com
Rick....
There is a great article on hanging your engine on doug reeves web site:
www.vanairforce.net I think its under the firewall forward section. Good
look at what needs to be done before you mount and things to think about. Im
getting close to that point, but not quite there yet!!! Hope that helps.
Kurt in OKC
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: barry pote <barrypote@comcast.net>
Try Charles at Mt Pocono, Pa .....570.839.1181
10% over cost or garmin is 30% off their published list and ups is 20%
off.
Gave me a great deal.
Barry Pote RV9a
Paul Brown wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
>
> A few years ago, while at SNF, I was talking to a guy on the flight line and
he mentioned that if I ever wanted to buy any avionics for my RV I should check
with a guy in Georgia. He said that this guy had the best prices. Does anyone
know of this place. I'm looking to purchase one of UPS's SL40's. The best
price that I could find, so far, is 1245.00
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because of flammability, and toxic
vapors that could result from a short situation, etc.
Electrical tape placed strategically with good flammability ratings instead?
Robert
Norman wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire goes
> > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how do
> > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you just
> > lace it together and let it dangle?
>
> Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the fuselage side skins like my
> RV6A?
> I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them in the J-stringers. A few
> holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they are very secure. I used
> Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: How do you secure wiring harnesses in the aft fuselage? |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
Here are some preliminary part #'s for the metal
"standoff" Try these with your local tool dealer. They
are listed in the M.S. books.
WSI42L3W-5 (this is a 1/2" standoff)
BAC18F OR G
BACS18R
these are upright standoffs and not the ones that lay
flat.
Glenn Williams
A&P Fort Worth
--- Miller Robert <rmiller3@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Miller Robert
> <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
>
> The plastic wrap makes me a little nervous because
> of flammability, and toxic
> vapors that could result from a short situation,
> etc.
> Electrical tape placed strategically with good
> flammability ratings instead?
> Robert
>
> Norman wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman"
> <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > I'm building and RV-9A and am wondering how you
> > > are securing the aft fuselage wiring. The wire
> goes
> > > through snap bushings on the bulkheads, but how
> do
> > > you secure it between the bulkheads? Do you
> just
> > > lace it together and let it dangle?
> >
> > Does the RV9 use J-stringers to stiffen the
> fuselage side skins like my
> > RV6A?
> > I bundled my wires in plastic wrap then laid them
> in the J-stringers. A few
> > holes and some mil spec plastic tie wraps and they
> are very secure. I used
> > Van's snap bushings at the bulkheads.
> >
> > Norman Hunger
> > RV6A Delta BC
> >
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re:Water+Autogas=ice=no Gas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
Unless a filter is specifically engineered to repel water (hydrophobic), the water
will pass through it. Filters at retail gasoline stations are designed with
hydrophobic elements, but even they fail too often. It is almost impossible
to keep water out of fuel, aviation or otherwise along the production, distribution
and retail chain, and systems are employed at each level to remove it.
Even the most reliable marketer will find it in his tanks eventually, but if
you don't get it from the refiner, distributor, or marketer, watch out for condensation
in your own tanks as another poster pointed out.
The rule is: expect water, check your sumps before every flight and feel good
when you don't find it. Interestingly enough, ethanol in gasoline will absorb
water to a point so it provides some safety margin at the expense of economy
and materials compatibility. We have ETOH in all of our automotive gasoline here
in Minnesota (but not because of water).
Bruce Anthony
Chemical Engineer
18 years in refining and retail petroleum
RV-9A - just getting started
Message 18
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| Subject: | Engine for sale 0 320 E3D |
--> RV-List message posted by: TColeE@aol.com
Helping a friend try to sale his Glassair kit 70% finished with engine and
prop. Engine overhauled ready to go 12,500. prop spinner backiing plate bolts
and extension ,new never used 70CM 6S16-O-78. 1,650
Terry E. Cole
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
The guy's name is John Stark.
Stark avionics.
Here is his old web site (I think he has a new one, but its not in Google...
this on still has his correct phone numbers, etc)
http://www.mindspring.com/~jts7/starkav.html
In my opinion, John has the lowest prices around. I bought a complete
Apollow/UPS IFR stack from him about 3 months ago. His price was $5,120 LESS
than Gulf Coast Avionics, and about $3,000 less than Eastern Avionics.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Brown
Subject: RV-List: Avionics
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
A few years ago, while at SNF, I was talking to a guy on the flight line and
he mentioned that if I ever wanted to buy any avionics for my RV I should
check with a guy in Georgia. He said that this guy had the best prices. Does
anyone know of this place. I'm looking to purchase one of UPS's SL40's.
The best price that I could find, so far, is 1245.00
Paul
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Engine installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Rick,
I just hung my 0-320-D1A last weekend. I found the "Illustrated Guide to
Engine Hanging" very helpful in both preparation of the engine and the
actual hanging. It can be found at the following address:
http://www.metronet.com/~dreeves/articles/IllustratedGuideToEngineHanging/enginehanging.htm.
The same article was published in a the Second Issue of 2001 RVator.
Their step-by-step sequence works. The fourth bolt was still difficult
and required a lot of patience and persistence.
On tightening and torquing the bolts, you will need a variety of 7/16
wrenches. Each nut has different accessibility problems. Typical open
end and sockets will not fit. I found that a Sears short box end wrench
worked well for all nut positions. I ended up cutting a piece out of the
end of the box end to allow removal on the third nut after tightening.
Not enough room between the valve push tube and the mounting ear.
Hope this helps. I'll be glad to discuss further while still fresh in my
mind if you wish.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Rick Galati wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
>
> Within the next two weeks or so, I am expecting a factory new Lycoming
> 0-320-D1A and welcome any tips, advice, or suggestions for avoiding grief or
> needless aggravation in hanging the engine on my 6A as soon as possible.
> Another words, what prep work is advantageous or needs to be done to the engine
> right out of the box, mandatory or otherwise, prior to bolting the powerplant
to
> the engine mount?
>
> --- Rick Galati
>
> --- rick07x@earthlink.net
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Paul,
The "guy in Georgia" is John Stark of Stark Avionics. I purchased my
whole avionics package from him about a year ago. His prices are the
best I have seen. I polled the list before I bought and got all positive
comments. I am very pleased with what I received: GNS-430, GTX-327,
GMA-340 and SL-30.
His address is:
Stark Avionics
Hangar 12
Columbus Metro Airport
Columbus, GA 31909
Ph. 706-321-1008
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A FWF
Paul Brown wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
>
> A few years ago, while at SNF, I was talking to a guy on the flight line and
he mentioned that if I ever wanted to buy any avionics for my RV I should check
with a guy in Georgia. He said that this guy had the best prices. Does anyone
know of this place. I'm looking to purchase one of UPS's SL40's. The best
price that I could find, so far, is 1245.00
>
> Paul
>
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Lundquist" <lundquist@ieee.org>
Probably Stark Avionics:
I've done some business with them recently and was very pleased
Dave Lundquist
Telephone
706-321-1008
FAX
706-324-3770
Postal address
5290E ARMOUR ROAD COLUMBUS METRO AIRPORT
COLUMBUS, GA 31909
Electronic mail
General Information: john@starkavionics.com
Sales:john@starkavionics.com
Customer Support: john@starkavionics.com
Webmaster: john@starkavionics.com
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <davevon@tir.com>
Charlie's new number is 610-258-4750.
Just got off the phone with him. Sounds like a good guy to do business
with.
Dave
RV-6
The need for speed...
----- Original Message -----
From: "barry pote" <barrypote@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avionics
> --> RV-List message posted by: barry pote <barrypote@comcast.net>
>
> Try Charles at Mt Pocono, Pa .....570.839.1181
> 10% over cost or garmin is 30% off their published list and ups is 20%
> off.
> Gave me a great deal.
> Barry Pote RV9a
>
> Paul Brown wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
> >
> > A few years ago, while at SNF, I was talking to a guy on the flight line
and he mentioned that if I ever wanted to buy any avionics for my RV I
should check with a guy in Georgia. He said that this guy had the best
prices. Does anyone know of this place. I'm looking to purchase one of
UPS's SL40's. The best price that I could find, so far, is 1245.00
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Norman wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> How do you get the upper edge of the fairing to have a nice edge? I don't
> see myself sanding away there with one little slip ruining the windscreen. I
> thought I would make the fairing removable for just the first three layers,
> perfect the upper edge, then glue it on and continue glassing on more layers
> while being carfull to never get too near the top edge. Comments?
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
Norman, I applied two or three layers of black electrical tape to the
canopy/fairing edge. It was then possible to feather the edge of the
fairing without damaging the plexi by sanding down to the tape. This
will result in the fairing blending into the canopy so you won't have
the "lip" that you see on the edge of many fairings. Here are details:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/finish3.html
By the way, I removed your note about archiving this thread....can't
imagine why you wouldn't want this info in the archives (even though it
is already there.....). :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Knoll" <tripodcat@msn.com>
Hi,
Leaving tonight for 7 days in Maui. Would be interested in visiting with anybody
building a 6/6a &/OR any aviation events taking place on the island. My computer
will be online til 6 pm mountain time.
Bruce Knoll
tripodcat@msn.com
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 26
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| Subject: | Piper Pitot Facts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Hello
I want to leave my experience with the Piper Pitot for the archives.
I have installed a Piper Pitot 12" from the leading edge in the junction
of the spar and a the 2nd to outboard rib of my RV-8.
1. The pitot mounted STATIC system caused errors and the airspeed
indicator wound read low (20 kts) especially at low speeds.
2. Upon relocating to dual static locations on the aft fuselage (just
behind the rear baggage compartment) all pitot/static instruments now read
correctly.
3. The Piper Pitot is considerably more robust than the stock version and
is built to take abuse by spectators, photographers and line personnel. I
also suspect it is slightly less draggy but have no hard evidence of this.
I hope this helps someone, some time.
Rob Miller -8
N262RM "Bad Cat"
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Priming (That was not corrosion) |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Having an old B model 1950 model Bonanza myself and repairing that same
location, that brown muck
down in the belly of the airframe was old greese, oil, dirt and goop
from oil mixed with insulation and dirt that collects in a 50 year old
airplane belly. Also, Beechcraft sprayed a tar based muck in that
location. I dont beleive that was corrosion you saw in the pictures (see
clip below).
.................................................................................
Time: 06:09:05 AM PST US
From: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Priming
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells"
<ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
I strongly agree with Bob's attached comments. I have used Dupont's
epoxy
primer on all internal parts, including homemade clips, etc.
In the current Sport Aviation is the 2nd part of an article on bringing
a
Beechcraft Bonanza up to current. There is an eye-opening picture with
the
skins off. It looks like someone raked dead leaves over it - brown rash
EVERYWHERE. It's an older model - but I wouldn't ride in a plane with
1/10
that . In the past I don't think that manufacturers expected ANY
plane would last a half century. Today, with modern paints, there is no
reason why EVERY plane could not last much longer. Of course, do not
archive
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
Finish Kit 85% Complete
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Targa Strip (and tip-up stuff) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I was out of town all weekend, or I would have been all over this
thread. I am currently doing both the canopy leading edge and a
fiberglass targa strip over the front/ rear split line. The method
described by Sam on his website works like a charm. You do have to be a
bit carefull. Electrical tape is pretty thick and surprisingly tough
against sandpaper, and one thickness is all I used to define the edge,
and sanded the superfil down to it. I am using the same method for the
front edge of the targa strip, which is 5 layers of cloth thick, with
the layers staggered to be only two layers thick at the front edge, and
full thickness at the rear. The glass was roughed up so it would stick
better, and I left every other screw hole open ( I used screws on the
entire canopy in place of rivets) to back drill through them into the
strip when it is finished, for a mechanical bond.
There was an article in the 18 Years of RVater which I don't have just
now, where the author (Ken Scott I think) built his fairing by glassing,
removing, finishing and reapplying as you describe. He recommended
against doing it like this. Also, one slip of the sandpaper will not
really ruin the canopy. Micro mesh works like a charm on these little
booboos (of course, don't ask how I know.)
Jeff Point
RV-6 canopy...still
Milwaukee WI
>
>Norman, I applied two or three layers of black electrical tape to the
>canopy/fairing edge. It was then possible to feather the edge of the
>fairing without damaging the plexi by sanding down to the tape. This
>will result in the fairing blending into the canopy so you won't have
>the "lip" that you see on the edge of many fairings. Here are details:
>
>http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/finish3.html
>
>By the way, I removed your note about archiving this thread....can't
>imagine why you wouldn't want this info in the archives (even though it
>is already there.....). :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Canopy crack :-( |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Listers,
Not a happy subject line. After over two years, flying nearly 500 hrs, my 6A sliding
canopy developed a crack last weekend at one of the aft skirt rivets.
The OAT in Wisconsin was 10-20 deg F, so that probably didn't help. The hangar
was about 65, so maybe the temperature change did it.
I stop-drilled the crack with 1/16" drill. It has about 2" exposed, with a further
inch under the skirt, going through the rivet to the edge of the plexiglass.
Reading the archives, it seems that Weld-on 3 is the thing to use, so I've
ordered some from Spruce.
Here's my question:
After letting the Weld-on 3 wick into the crack, should I dissolve some plexi shavings
in the solvent to make a filler for the 1/16" hole, or should I leave
it open? Anything else I should do?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A, flying 480 hrs
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy crack :-( |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Chris,
I have a nearly identical crack in mine near the forward end of the
skirt (on a tip up though) which happened while drilling. I stop
drilled it, used Weldon 3 injected with a medical syringe (it is watery
thin) and let it cure. Then I filled the stop-drill hole with epoxy,
let that cure, and sanded it flush, then used Micro Mesh to fix the
plexi. Turned out, well, not perfect, but not too bad, and better than
a new canopy. A better solution (which I considered but abandoned) may
have been to find or make a plug of plexi for the hole and glue it in
with Weldon, then sand it flush.
I played around quite a bit with the Weldon and scrap plexi. Based on
my very un-scientific testing, it seems that the joint is about 50-75%
as strong as unbroken plexi, judging by the force required to re-break
the fused piece. Pretty amazing stuff. Never did try disolving plexi
shavings though. Certainly I have plenty of them after cutting and
drilling the canopy. I have 99.5% of the one quart can left, and you're
welcome to it if you don't feel like waiting for AC$.
Jeff Point
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Builder Locator Database |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Mucker" <matthew@mucker.net>
All,
Recently, one of the members of the Zenith-list took a cross country trip in
his Zodiac and later found that he'd been mere miles from other Zenith
builders and missed seeing them during his stops. This led to a discussion
about creating a database where homebuilders could look up other builders by
geographic area.
I took on the challenge and have created a Homebuilders Directory at
www.matthewmucker.com/builder_directory.asp. I presented this web-based
database to the Zenith list and have received very positive feedback.
The web server hasn't gone belly-up yet, so in order to stress test the
database, I'd like to invite the RV'ers on the Matronics list to register in
the directory and test it out some. If it survives the RV list, it'll
probably survive anything, and I'll declare the database "live" and commit
to maintaining it and keeping it running.
I am not a member of the RV list, so replies to the list won't get to me.
Please send feedback/compliments/criticism to matthew@mucker.net. (I'm away
from the computer until late tonight taking final exams.)
Thanks,
-Matt
P.S. Currently, only ZIP codes and airports in the United States are
supported by the database, as I haven't been able to find latitude/longitude
data for airports and postal codes in other countries. If you know of such
a source, please PLEASE email me! I need it in a flat-file or database
format that I can import into MS Access.
Message 32
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| Subject: | How to buck two dag-bern rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm stumped...there are two rivets on each side rail (canopy deck, whatever
you want to call it) that I just can't buck. One is because the side rail
curls under and prevents me from getting any sort of even modified bucking
bar in there (that I can think of, at least), and the other rivet is
obscured by the top of the F-704 flange.
I put some pictures of the area in question here:
http://www.rvproject.com/bucking_issue.html
Got any advice on how I might buck these rivets, or do most people put blind
rivets in those two spots?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Piper Pitot Facts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Well if you can't make a simple pitot tube work then I would be very dubious
about the quality of the rest of the aircraft. You should sell that plane,
if you can find someone gullible enough to buy it, and fly something geared
more toward someone of your caliber. Oh, say a Grumman Cheetah or some
other glued-together airplane.
OK, for the humor-impaired, Rob is a good friend of mine (or at least he was
until he read this email.) He's an officer in our local EAA chapter
(Chapter 90) and did an impeccable job on his airplane. He built the first
RV to fly at Oakdale (O27) in over 5 years. Soon to be joined by an RV-6,
an RV-4 (that would be me!), a -6A, 7, and 9. Way to go Rob, 'bout time you
chimed in!
Stay tuned for the Central Valley Squadron of Van's Air Force!
Do not archive. No need to.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Miller [mailto:rmill2000@yahoo.com]
Subject: RV-List: Piper Pitot Facts
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Hello
I want to leave my experience with the Piper Pitot for the archives.
I have installed a Piper Pitot 12" from the leading edge in the junction
of the spar and a the 2nd to outboard rib of my RV-8.
1. The pitot mounted STATIC system caused errors and the airspeed
indicator wound read low (20 kts) especially at low speeds.
2. Upon relocating to dual static locations on the aft fuselage (just
behind the rear baggage compartment) all pitot/static instruments now read
correctly.
3. The Piper Pitot is considerably more robust than the stock version and
is built to take abuse by spectators, photographers and line personnel. I
also suspect it is slightly less draggy but have no hard evidence of this.
I hope this helps someone, some time.
Rob Miller -8
N262RM "Bad Cat"
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
I would use two cherry max blind rivets and if the
stem is protruding use a jewelers file to file them
even with the countersink.
Glenn Williams
A&P Fort Worth
do not archive
--- Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm stumped...there are two rivets on each side rail
> (canopy deck, whatever
> you want to call it) that I just can't buck. One is
> because the side rail
> curls under and prevents me from getting any sort of
> even modified bucking
> bar in there (that I can think of, at least), and
> the other rivet is
> obscured by the top of the F-704 flange.
>
> I put some pictures of the area in question here:
> http://www.rvproject.com/bucking_issue.html
>
> Got any advice on how I might buck these rivets, or
> do most people put blind
> rivets in those two spots?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
There is a brand new law regarding terrorism coverage with regards to insurance
policies in the US. My customers should be receiving a letter from me (which
was written by my boss, and doesn't explain much).
You all should receive a letter from your insurance company directly regarding
it in the next 90 days. Once notified, if you elect not to purchase the coverage,
it will automatically go away again.
The law temporarily adds coverage to US insurance policies with regards to acts
of terrorism. The scope of the coverage being added to all applicable policies
is extremely narrow (territory limited [basically] to US soil, over $5 millon
losses in total per occurence, must be designated a terrorist act by the US
Secretary of Treasury, etc.)
The government enacted this law to ensure that commercial enterprises could purchase
coverage for terrorist acts onto their policies. "Commercial" was not defined
in the law and most of the insurance companies are erring on the side of
contacting all their policy holders and offering the coverage.
This law should not be seen as deleting the War Risk exclusion on your policy.
It is much narrower than the definitions on that exclusion. It is only adding
back in a portion of those risks excluded.
Applicable policyholders will be notified by their insurance carriers that the
coverage now exists on the policy. They will likely have the choice of allowing
the coverage to lapse at the end of the grace period, sign away the coverage,
or purchase the coverage permenantly. Yes, you will have to ultimately pay for
this coverage if you want it to stay on your policy. It has only been added
temporarily.
The pricing has yet to be determined. But, my initial reaction is that unless it
is extremely cheap, it will not be worth purchasing. The coverage is EXTREMELY
narrow. The act causing the damage would have to do more than $5 million in
damage, and the US Government (Secretary of the Treasury) would have to specifically
declare that as an act of terrorism.
It does appear that the companies will either issue an additional exclusion if
you do not purchase the coverage (in addition to the war/hijacking exclusions
that now appear on all policies) or they will alter their war/hijacking exclusions.
Once you're contacted by your insurance company with specifics on the coverage
and pricing, if you have any questions or wish to purchase the coverage, you should
contact your current insurance agent.
Definetely, do not archive
John "JT" Helms
Branch Manager
NationAir Insurance Agency
Pleasure and Business Branch
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Leave it to the Insurance Industry to lead the heroic charge to recede from
any/all liability/responsibility.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Helms <jhelms@i1.net>
Subject: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
>
> There is a brand new law regarding terrorism coverage with regards to
insurance policies in the US. My customers should be receiving a letter
from me (which was written by my boss, and doesn't explain much).
>
> You all should receive a letter from your insurance company directly
regarding it in the next 90 days. Once notified, if you elect not to
purchase the coverage, it will automatically go away again.
>
> The law temporarily adds coverage to US insurance policies with regards to
acts of terrorism. The scope of the coverage being added to all applicable
policies is extremely narrow (territory limited [basically] to US soil, over
$5 millon losses in total per occurence, must be designated a terrorist act
by the US Secretary of Treasury, etc.)
>
> The government enacted this law to ensure that commercial enterprises
could purchase coverage for terrorist acts onto their policies.
"Commercial" was not defined in the law and most of the insurance companies
are erring on the side of contacting all their policy holders and offering
the coverage.
>
> This law should not be seen as deleting the War Risk exclusion on your
policy. It is much narrower than the definitions on that exclusion. It is
only adding back in a portion of those risks excluded.
>
> Applicable policyholders will be notified by their insurance carriers that
the coverage now exists on the policy. They will likely have the choice of
allowing the coverage to lapse at the end of the grace period, sign away the
coverage, or purchase the coverage permenantly. Yes, you will have to
ultimately pay for this coverage if you want it to stay on your policy. It
has only been added temporarily.
>
> The pricing has yet to be determined. But, my initial reaction is that
unless it is extremely cheap, it will not be worth purchasing. The coverage
is EXTREMELY narrow. The act causing the damage would have to do more than
$5 million in damage, and the US Government (Secretary of the Treasury)
would have to specifically declare that as an act of terrorism.
>
> It does appear that the companies will either issue an additional
exclusion if you do not purchase the coverage (in addition to the
war/hijacking exclusions that now appear on all policies) or they will alter
their war/hijacking exclusions.
>
> Once you're contacted by your insurance company with specifics on the
coverage and pricing, if you have any questions or wish to purchase the
coverage, you should contact your current insurance agent.
>
> Definetely, do not archive
>
> John "JT" Helms
> Branch Manager
> NationAir Insurance Agency
> Pleasure and Business Branch
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engines...somewhat long! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Why is there far more discussion about Eggenfellner engines than NSI Aero
engines?
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Duckett" <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engines...somewhat long!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Duckett <perfeng@3rivers.net>
>
> Okay Guys,
> I think we all agree that what we're looking for to turn the prop is a
> reliable, reasonably priced, engine with good to excellent operational
> longevity. Weight, fuel burn, maintenance, and power production are
> also high on our lists too.
> As I agreed, there are new suppliers of "cert" type engines coming on
> line that are really giving the "Big Boys" a wake-up call. I'm sure
> everyone has seen the push Lycoming has been making here of late, so it
> seems they are watching what we're doing.
> My bottom line is I want 200 HP. I want the latest in engine and
> power producing technology in either "type" of powerplant. The "Auto"
> has the advantages in that I have far more options in engineering and
> building to reach my objectives than I currently do with the "Cert"
> engine and for far less money.
> I'll agree that the points that support the "cert" engine does in a lot
> of ways out weighs the "auto" when you look at proven flight hours,
> number of units in service, and we don't fly into parts stores but into
> airports. Guys like Tracy C., Jess M., Jim E., and many others have an
> uphill battle because they can't show a kajillion flight hours and
> thousands and thousands of units in service. That doesn't mean that
> their, mine, our someone elses engineering and designs are flawed or
> won't do just as well or better that a "cert".
> Nothing is more un-nerving than to have the fan quit turning and and
> hearing that deafening silence when all you see out the windscreen is
> trees and mountain tops. Just because I have a Lycoming hanging up
> front doesn't mean it won't happen. Just because I have an "auto"
> engine up there doesn't mean it will!
> To address a few other questions and comments that have arose concerning
> this thread...
> (paraphrased)
> Automotive engines must turn so much faster than Lyc's, what is the
> longevity? Or something like that.
> Figuring Normal Rated Power Output:
> an IO-360 turning @ 2024 rpm gives us 135 True HP at 75% and a piston
> speed of 1518 fpm.
> a 4.3L (262ci) turning @3375 rpm gives us 168 True HP at 75% and a
> piston speed of 1958 fpm.
>
> If you look at Absolute Maximum Power Output (Redline for application)
> IO-360 turning at 2650 rpm develops 180 THP and a piston speed of 2024 fpm
> 4.3L turning at 4500 rpm develops 223 THP and a piston speed of 2610 fpm
>
> So yes, the Lycoming does turn approx. 28% slower but, the Chevy builds
> more power with less displacement. You could turn the Chevy to match the
> Piston Speed of the Lycoming but, flow profiles and fuel burn would be
> horrible without turboing it.
> Even if you tear down the Chevy four times to the Lyc's one, all the
> costs for overhauls on the Chevy is still around half that of one Lyc O/H.
>
> To address Rob's question about our "Backyard Approach" conversion,
> we've been engneering and building racing and special application
> engines for 30+ years. I still don't claim to be an "expert" that some
> on the list seem to be searching for. I just a guy who loves engines
> and loves to fly. I don't cut corners or build engines on a dirt floor.
> I don't buy my tools from Home Depot or Harbor Freight and I can't
> carry them around in the back of my pick-up. So myself and our shop is
> far from being "Back Yard".
> To adress the "Alternative Engine Cost" of $8000 ready to run, I'll give
> Re-Sale prices here.
> 4.3L (262ci) 230HP Chevrolet 4300 V-6 Marine Vortec $1600
> Carb, Manifold, and Leaning block
> $ 550
> Redundant MSD Ignition system
> $ 700
> Dampener, Pulleys, Flexplate, Brackets, etc.
> $ 500
> Average cost of PSRU
> $4000
> 12 hours to inspect and assemble @$65/Hr. $ 780
>
> Total
> $7980
>
> If you figure our actual cost (being a stocking shop) and our actual
> cost of labor, yes, we can build a dang good powerplant assembly for 8
> grand!
> Granted, we are doing a lot more to our engine than just this but, my
> point is...you can build a reliable 200 HP powerplant out of the crate
> for around half of a 200HP Lycomings price.
> Even if you build a full aluminum auto engine with every "trick part
> under the sun"and charge out every bit of labor and machining you still
> come in around $14,000 with PSRU, and you can make 230-250 HP with
> excellent reliability and longevity and be around 100# lighter than the
Lyc.
> Who knows, I may win a new 200HP angle valve in a raffle and this will
> go down as a good discussion topic.
>
> Jim Duckett, sissy nose wheeling, chevy thinking RV-7A
>
> Please do not archive this rant!
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Feedback on Finding an Oil Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Many thanks to all those who provided suggestions on finding the oil leak in
my -4. I ended up using dye from NAPA and an ultraviolet light. The leak,
oddly enough, was a pin hole in an Aeroquip hose that connected the engine
to the firewall-mounted oil transducer. The hose has only about 100 hours
on it. It's one of the ridiculously expensive types with a stainless steel
braid over a polymer tube.
It took me a long time to believe this hose could really be the culprit, but
this past weekend, I removed it and pressure-tested it. I applied about
70psi air to the hose with my compressor and submersed it in a bucket of
water. Sure enough, a steady stream of air exited the tube from an
invisible hole in the center of the line.
I'm looking forward to replacing the line and once again having a clean
engine compartment. Thanks, again for the help.
Dean Pichon
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
Can you read?
This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it to a
community of airplane owners that I care about.
Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase it.
If I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must be a
person who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at so
low a price that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten us to
the point we're at in this segment of the market... with so few companies
left that do aviation insurance.)
Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some people to
manage risk.
Don't be so negative.
JT
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Fw: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Leave it to the Insurance Industry to lead the heroic charge to recede from
any/all liability/responsibility.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Helms <jhelms@i1.net>
Subject: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
>
> There is a brand new law regarding terrorism coverage with regards to
insurance policies in the US. My customers should be receiving a letter
from me (which was written by my boss, and doesn't explain much).
>
> You all should receive a letter from your insurance company directly
regarding it in the next 90 days. Once notified, if you elect not to
purchase the coverage, it will automatically go away again.
>
> The law temporarily adds coverage to US insurance policies with regards to
acts of terrorism. The scope of the coverage being added to all applicable
policies is extremely narrow (territory limited [basically] to US soil, over
$5 millon losses in total per occurence, must be designated a terrorist act
by the US Secretary of Treasury, etc.)
>
> The government enacted this law to ensure that commercial enterprises
could purchase coverage for terrorist acts onto their policies.
"Commercial" was not defined in the law and most of the insurance companies
are erring on the side of contacting all their policy holders and offering
the coverage.
>
> This law should not be seen as deleting the War Risk exclusion on your
policy. It is much narrower than the definitions on that exclusion. It is
only adding back in a portion of those risks excluded.
>
> Applicable policyholders will be notified by their insurance carriers that
the coverage now exists on the policy. They will likely have the choice of
allowing the coverage to lapse at the end of the grace period, sign away the
coverage, or purchase the coverage permenantly. Yes, you will have to
ultimately pay for this coverage if you want it to stay on your policy. It
has only been added temporarily.
>
> The pricing has yet to be determined. But, my initial reaction is that
unless it is extremely cheap, it will not be worth purchasing. The coverage
is EXTREMELY narrow. The act causing the damage would have to do more than
$5 million in damage, and the US Government (Secretary of the Treasury)
would have to specifically declare that as an act of terrorism.
>
> It does appear that the companies will either issue an additional
exclusion if you do not purchase the coverage (in addition to the
war/hijacking exclusions that now appear on all policies) or they will alter
their war/hijacking exclusions.
>
> Once you're contacted by your insurance company with specifics on the
coverage and pricing, if you have any questions or wish to purchase the
coverage, you should contact your current insurance agent.
>
> Definetely, do not archive
>
> John "JT" Helms
> Branch Manager
> NationAir Insurance Agency
> Pleasure and Business Branch
>
>
Message 40
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: You're welcome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
JT,
Thanks for your half witted flames. But the Insurance Industry has NEVER come
out on the short end. I and other Californians/Americans are constantly screwed
by these white collar criminals. :
) But seriously, I do think that insurance agents, realtors, attorneys, bartenders,
and politicians profit inappropriately in good and bad times.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: John Helms
Subject: You're welcome
Can you read?
This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it.
Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase it. If
I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must be a person
who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at so low a price
that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten us to the point
we're at in this segment of the market... with so few companies left that do aviation
insurance.)
Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some people to manage
risk.
Am I using words that are too large for you to understand?
You pay small $, we pay big $ if plane breaks, or you hurt people.
Don't be so negative.
JT
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Wow, you are sly. Send me the nasty email and sanitize the one to the list.
Yes I sought quotes from you and several other insurance agents. And as a
law enforcement officer I believe the actions you and the other agents take
are CRIMINAL! You folks claim that it's just "courtesy" but you all "On a
gentleman's agreement" refuse to offer coverage to honest folks.
*like my grandma said... "Never argue with an idiot, folks watchin' are
likely not going to be able to tell the difference."
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: John Helms <jhelms@i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
>
> Can you read?
>
> This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it to
a
> community of airplane owners that I care about.
>
> Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase it.
> If I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must be
a
> person who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at so
> low a price that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten us
to
> the point we're at in this segment of the market... with so few companies
> left that do aviation insurance.)
>
> Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some people
to
> manage risk.
>
> Don't be so negative.
>
> JT
>
> Do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> To: "RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Leave it to the Insurance Industry to lead the heroic charge to recede
from
> any/all liability/responsibility.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Helms <jhelms@i1.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
> >
> > There is a brand new law regarding terrorism coverage with regards to
> insurance policies in the US. My customers should be receiving a letter
> from me (which was written by my boss, and doesn't explain much).
> >
> > You all should receive a letter from your insurance company directly
> regarding it in the next 90 days. Once notified, if you elect not to
> purchase the coverage, it will automatically go away again.
> >
> > The law temporarily adds coverage to US insurance policies with regards
to
> acts of terrorism. The scope of the coverage being added to all
applicable
> policies is extremely narrow (territory limited [basically] to US soil,
over
> $5 millon losses in total per occurence, must be designated a terrorist
act
> by the US Secretary of Treasury, etc.)
> >
> > The government enacted this law to ensure that commercial enterprises
> could purchase coverage for terrorist acts onto their policies.
> "Commercial" was not defined in the law and most of the insurance
companies
> are erring on the side of contacting all their policy holders and offering
> the coverage.
> >
> > This law should not be seen as deleting the War Risk exclusion on your
> policy. It is much narrower than the definitions on that exclusion. It is
> only adding back in a portion of those risks excluded.
> >
> > Applicable policyholders will be notified by their insurance carriers
that
> the coverage now exists on the policy. They will likely have the choice of
> allowing the coverage to lapse at the end of the grace period, sign away
the
> coverage, or purchase the coverage permenantly. Yes, you will have to
> ultimately pay for this coverage if you want it to stay on your policy. It
> has only been added temporarily.
> >
> > The pricing has yet to be determined. But, my initial reaction is that
> unless it is extremely cheap, it will not be worth purchasing. The
coverage
> is EXTREMELY narrow. The act causing the damage would have to do more than
> $5 million in damage, and the US Government (Secretary of the Treasury)
> would have to specifically declare that as an act of terrorism.
> >
> > It does appear that the companies will either issue an additional
> exclusion if you do not purchase the coverage (in addition to the
> war/hijacking exclusions that now appear on all policies) or they will
alter
> their war/hijacking exclusions.
> >
> > Once you're contacted by your insurance company with specifics on the
> coverage and pricing, if you have any questions or wish to purchase the
> coverage, you should contact your current insurance agent.
> >
> > Definetely, do not archive
> >
> > John "JT" Helms
> > Branch Manager
> > NationAir Insurance Agency
> > Pleasure and Business Branch
> >
> >
>
>
Message 42
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| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
John Helms,
I got your letter and read your posting a few hours ago. Your message was
clear. The new governmental law requires this, and since we can opt out if
we wish with essentially no change to our policy or premium I see no reason
for anyone to get upset.. thanks for the information.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
>
> Can you read?
>
> This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it to
a
> community of airplane owners that I care about.
>
> Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase it.
> If I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must be
a
> person who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at so
> low a price that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten us
to
> the point we're at in this segment of the market... with so few companies
> left that do aviation insurance.)
>
> Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some people
to
> manage risk.
>
> Don't be so negative.
>
> JT
>
> Do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> To: "RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Fw: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Leave it to the Insurance Industry to lead the heroic charge to recede
from
> any/all liability/responsibility.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Helms <jhelms@i1.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
> >
> > There is a brand new law regarding terrorism coverage with regards to
> insurance policies in the US. My customers should be receiving a letter
> from me (which was written by my boss, and doesn't explain much).
> >
> > You all should receive a letter from your insurance company directly
> regarding it in the next 90 days. Once notified, if you elect not to
> purchase the coverage, it will automatically go away again.
> >
> > The law temporarily adds coverage to US insurance policies with regards
to
> acts of terrorism. The scope of the coverage being added to all
applicable
> policies is extremely narrow (territory limited [basically] to US soil,
over
> $5 millon losses in total per occurence, must be designated a terrorist
act
> by the US Secretary of Treasury, etc.)
> >
> > The government enacted this law to ensure that commercial enterprises
> could purchase coverage for terrorist acts onto their policies.
> "Commercial" was not defined in the law and most of the insurance
companies
> are erring on the side of contacting all their policy holders and offering
> the coverage.
> >
> > This law should not be seen as deleting the War Risk exclusion on your
> policy. It is much narrower than the definitions on that exclusion. It is
> only adding back in a portion of those risks excluded.
> >
> > Applicable policyholders will be notified by their insurance carriers
that
> the coverage now exists on the policy. They will likely have the choice of
> allowing the coverage to lapse at the end of the grace period, sign away
the
> coverage, or purchase the coverage permenantly. Yes, you will have to
> ultimately pay for this coverage if you want it to stay on your policy. It
> has only been added temporarily.
> >
> > The pricing has yet to be determined. But, my initial reaction is that
> unless it is extremely cheap, it will not be worth purchasing. The
coverage
> is EXTREMELY narrow. The act causing the damage would have to do more than
> $5 million in damage, and the US Government (Secretary of the Treasury)
> would have to specifically declare that as an act of terrorism.
> >
> > It does appear that the companies will either issue an additional
> exclusion if you do not purchase the coverage (in addition to the
> war/hijacking exclusions that now appear on all policies) or they will
alter
> their war/hijacking exclusions.
> >
> > Once you're contacted by your insurance company with specifics on the
> coverage and pricing, if you have any questions or wish to purchase the
> coverage, you should contact your current insurance agent.
> >
> > Definetely, do not archive
> >
> > John "JT" Helms
> > Branch Manager
> > NationAir Insurance Agency
> > Pleasure and Business Branch
> >
> >
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Dan:
Not sure if this will help you, as I could not see if you have enough room
in your pictures.
In several confined areas, I have had success using the base of the smaller
version from a set of machine squares that I purchased from Harbor Freight.
It is small enough and narrow enough to get into some tight squeezes. It is
just heavy enough to whang an occasional elusive rivet.
Hope this helps. Otherwise, the suggestion to use a blind rivet may be the
way to go.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: How to buck two dag-bern rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm stumped...there are two rivets on each side rail (canopy deck,
whatever
> you want to call it) that I just can't buck. One is because the side rail
> curls under and prevents me from getting any sort of even modified bucking
> bar in there (that I can think of, at least), and the other rivet is
> obscured by the top of the F-704 flange.
>
> I put some pictures of the area in question here:
> http://www.rvproject.com/bucking_issue.html
>
> Got any advice on how I might buck these rivets, or do most people put
blind
> rivets in those two spots?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: You're welcome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
I'm glad he left out doctors!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: You're welcome
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> JT,
>
> Thanks for your half witted flames. But the Insurance Industry has
NEVER come out on the short end. I and other Californians/Americans are
constantly screwed by these white collar criminals. :
> ) But seriously, I do think that insurance agents, realtors, attorneys,
bartenders, and politicians profit inappropriately in good and bad times.
>
> Chuck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Helms
> To: crabaut@coalinga.com
> Subject: You're welcome
>
>
> Can you read?
>
> This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it.
>
> Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase it.
If I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must be a
person who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at so
low a price that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten us to
the point we're at in this segment of the market... with so few companies
left that do aviation insurance.)
>
> Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some people
to manage risk.
>
> Am I using words that are too large for you to understand?
>
> You pay small $, we pay big $ if plane breaks, or you hurt people.
>
> Don't be so negative.
>
> JT
>
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | ACS2002 price jump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yoiks...anybody else notice the huge (for me) jump in price that just
happened to the ACS2002? It went from $3250 to $3800 (Van's) and $3950
(Advanced Control Systems). Wow! Not exactly a meager 3% hike.
Sucks to be me...6-12 months away from needing it. Boy, I hope they're not
catching on to its true value just yet...
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Fw: You're welcome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Hey Doctors put in a hell'oalot of college time (I know, I've put in
numerous years myself) and I figure they earn the big $$ (or at least the
vast majority).
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Leathers <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: You're welcome
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> I'm glad he left out doctors!!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> To: "RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: You're welcome
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> > JT,
> >
> > Thanks for your half witted flames. But the Insurance Industry has
> NEVER come out on the short end. I and other Californians/Americans are
> constantly screwed by these white collar criminals. :
> > ) But seriously, I do think that insurance agents, realtors,
attorneys,
> bartenders, and politicians profit inappropriately in good and bad times.
> >
> > Chuck
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Helms
> > To: crabaut@coalinga.com
> > Subject: You're welcome
> >
> >
> > Can you read?
> >
> > This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it.
> >
> > Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase
it.
> If I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must be
a
> person who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at so
> low a price that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten us
to
> the point we're at in this segment of the market... with so few companies
> left that do aviation insurance.)
> >
> > Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some
people
> to manage risk.
> >
> > Am I using words that are too large for you to understand?
> >
> > You pay small $, we pay big $ if plane breaks, or you hurt people.
> >
> > Don't be so negative.
> >
> > JT
> >
> >
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
John,
But did you copy the part about their "New Exclusions" will be forth
coming?
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: John <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> John Helms,
>
> I got your letter and read your posting a few hours ago. Your message was
> clear. The new governmental law requires this, and since we can opt out if
> we wish with essentially no change to our policy or premium I see no
reason
> for anyone to get upset.. thanks for the information.
>
> John at Salida, CO
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
> >
> > Can you read?
> >
> > This was a government law that was passed. I was trying to explain it
to
> a
> > community of airplane owners that I care about.
> >
> > Why are you so down on insurance? If you don't want it don't purchase
it.
> > If I am not mistaken, you have requested quotes in the past. You must
be
> a
> > person who expects the insurance company to offer coverages for you at
so
> > low a price that they lose money. (that by the way is what has gotten
us
> to
> > the point we're at in this segment of the market... with so few
companies
> > left that do aviation insurance.)
> >
> > Some people do want it. Insurance provides a useful tool for some
people
> to
> > manage risk.
> >
> > Don't be so negative.
> >
> > JT
> >
> > Do not archive
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> > To: "RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Fw: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
> >
> > Leave it to the Insurance Industry to lead the heroic charge to recede
> from
> > any/all liability/responsibility.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: John Helms <jhelms@i1.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Helms" <jhelms@i1.net>
> > >
> > > There is a brand new law regarding terrorism coverage with regards to
> > insurance policies in the US. My customers should be receiving a letter
> > from me (which was written by my boss, and doesn't explain much).
> > >
> > > You all should receive a letter from your insurance company directly
> > regarding it in the next 90 days. Once notified, if you elect not to
> > purchase the coverage, it will automatically go away again.
> > >
> > > The law temporarily adds coverage to US insurance policies with
regards
> to
> > acts of terrorism. The scope of the coverage being added to all
> applicable
> > policies is extremely narrow (territory limited [basically] to US soil,
> over
> > $5 millon losses in total per occurence, must be designated a terrorist
> act
> > by the US Secretary of Treasury, etc.)
> > >
> > > The government enacted this law to ensure that commercial enterprises
> > could purchase coverage for terrorist acts onto their policies.
> > "Commercial" was not defined in the law and most of the insurance
> companies
> > are erring on the side of contacting all their policy holders and
offering
> > the coverage.
> > >
> > > This law should not be seen as deleting the War Risk exclusion on your
> > policy. It is much narrower than the definitions on that exclusion. It
is
> > only adding back in a portion of those risks excluded.
> > >
> > > Applicable policyholders will be notified by their insurance carriers
> that
> > the coverage now exists on the policy. They will likely have the choice
of
> > allowing the coverage to lapse at the end of the grace period, sign away
> the
> > coverage, or purchase the coverage permenantly. Yes, you will have to
> > ultimately pay for this coverage if you want it to stay on your policy.
It
> > has only been added temporarily.
> > >
> > > The pricing has yet to be determined. But, my initial reaction is that
> > unless it is extremely cheap, it will not be worth purchasing. The
> coverage
> > is EXTREMELY narrow. The act causing the damage would have to do more
than
> > $5 million in damage, and the US Government (Secretary of the Treasury)
> > would have to specifically declare that as an act of terrorism.
> > >
> > > It does appear that the companies will either issue an additional
> > exclusion if you do not purchase the coverage (in addition to the
> > war/hijacking exclusions that now appear on all policies) or they will
> alter
> > their war/hijacking exclusions.
> > >
> > > Once you're contacted by your insurance company with specifics on the
> > coverage and pricing, if you have any questions or wish to purchase the
> > coverage, you should contact your current insurance agent.
> > >
> > > Definetely, do not archive
> > >
> > > John "JT" Helms
> > > Branch Manager
> > > NationAir Insurance Agency
> > > Pleasure and Business Branch
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
"C. Rabaut" wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
>
> Wow, you are sly. Send me the nasty email and sanitize the one to the list.
> Yes I sought quotes from you and several other insurance agents. And as a
> law enforcement officer I believe the actions you and the other agents take
> are CRIMINAL! You folks claim that it's just "courtesy" but you all "On a
> gentleman's agreement" refuse to offer coverage to honest folks.
>
> *like my grandma said... "Never argue with an idiot, folks watchin' are
> likely not going to be able to tell the difference."
> do not archive
>
Whew....I am sure that any other law enforcement officers on the list
are cringing 'bout now....
I think you insurance types just got raised a rung or two on society's
ladder of opinion. ;-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: Terrorism Act and Insurance- Long |
--> RV-List message posted by: Smcm75@aol.com
In a message dated 12/10/02 5:13:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
> Leave it to the Insurance Industry to lead the heroic charge to recede from
> any/all liability/responsibility.
>
>
You guys need to realize that without insurance there would be no commerce. I
hate paying for insurance like everyone else, but without it there would be
no mortgages available for houses, no financing for any commercial
properties, no investments into corporate America. I was an aviation
insurance broker for 27 years and I can state from experience that you cannot
ever accuse the insurance industry of being smart, but without them there
would be no Aviation. Someone has to provide the financial security necessary
for business to operate.
Someone should think what it would be like if everyone had to pay for his own
mistakes and problems out of his own checkbook. Tell me a different way of
doing it I I will beat a path to your door
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: You're welcome |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
I'm glad he left out plumbers, as doctors and plumbers to have one thing in
common. We both bury our mistakes. Little humor there "Doc" 8
)
KABONG
Do Not Archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
I'm glad he left out doctors!!
Thanks for your half witted flames.
Message 51
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| Subject: | How do you put a tire and tube together. |
--> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
How do you put a tire and tube together?
I mean without pinching the tube. I've tried, carefully, tongue in cheek,
soft cajoling words and polite curse words so far.
So I figure some of you thousands of guys, or girls have done this a few
times. Have any of you figured out an easy way that works every time?
Cecil Hatfield
I just know I will wake up in the morning and have the answer. Ain't this
list great? Yep, I paid my dues last month for the sixth time in six
years.
Cecil (again)
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 price jump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
I checked the web site, and it says the unit now includes wiring harness.
Does it include everything you need now?
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: ACS2002 price jump
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Yoiks...anybody else notice the huge (for me) jump in price that just
> happened to the ACS2002? It went from $3250 to $3800 (Van's) and $3950
> (Advanced Control Systems). Wow! Not exactly a meager 3% hike.
>
> Sucks to be me...6-12 months away from needing it. Boy, I hope they're
not
> catching on to its true value just yet...
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: How do you put a tire and tube together. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
>
> How do you put a tire and tube together?
>
> I mean without pinching the tube. I've tried, carefully, tongue in cheek,
> soft cajoling words and polite curse words so far.
> So I figure some of you thousands of guys, or girls have done this a few
> times. Have any of you figured out an easy way that works every time?
> Cecil Hatfield
Shoot! I don't have the answer. It's always a struggle for me. After you
do get the tube kinda in position it probably pays to put a bit of air in it
to give it shape so it won't get pinched when you bolt the rims together.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: Piper Pitot Facts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello
>
>I want to leave my experience with the Piper Pitot for the archives.
>
>I have installed a Piper Pitot 12" from the leading edge in the junction
>of the spar and a the 2nd to outboard rib of my RV-8.
>
>1. The pitot mounted STATIC system caused errors and the airspeed
>indicator wound read low (20 kts) especially at low speeds.
>
>2. Upon relocating to dual static locations on the aft fuselage (just
>behind the rear baggage compartment) all pitot/static instruments now read
>correctly.
>
>3. The Piper Pitot is considerably more robust than the stock version and
>is built to take abuse by spectators, photographers and line personnel. I
>also suspect it is slightly less draggy but have no hard evidence of this.
>
>I hope this helps someone, some time.
>
>Rob Miller -8
>N262RM "Bad Cat"
>
Do you know what part number the pitot tube is, or what model and
year Piper it is off of? There are several different part number
Piper pitot tubes, with different angles on the bottom face to tweak
the pressure sensed by the static source. So we need to be able to
figure out which pitot tube you used in order to make good use of
this info.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Navaid auto pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: PASSPAT@aol.com
Anyone out there looking for a navaid auto pilot new in the box
$1100.00 plus shipping contact me off the list. passpat@aol.com .
Pat Patterson
do not archive
Message 56
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 price jump |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
After evaluating our costs for the ACS 2002 engine monitor it has become
necessary to increase the price of the units. Since setting a price for the
system we have changed to better quality and expensive EGT probes, CHT
probes, pressure transducers and include a complete wiring harness. We have
been notified by a number of our suppliers that we will have price increases
starting the first of the year.
We have also added a new full time engineer Ken Chard to work on exciting new
features and to help with system manufacturing.
The System comes with the following sensors:
4 EGT Probes
4 CHT Probes
1 Amp Transducer
1 Fuel Pressure Transducer
1 Oil Pressure Transducer
1 Oil Temperature Probe
1 OAT Probe
1 Fuel Flow Transducer
1 Manifold Pressure Transducer
1 Carb Temperature Probe (If Required)
1 RPM Transducer
You will need to supply:
MAC Trim Servo's
MAC Flap Position Sensor
Fuel Tank Sending Units
Micro Switches for Digital Inputs (Canopy, ?)
The system also comes with a laser cut template to make installing the screen
easier.
Sincerely,
Rob Hickman
Advanced Control Systems Inc.
www.Advanced-Control-Systems.com
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: How do you put a tire and tube together. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen Johnson" <spjohnsn@ix.netcom.com>
Use talcum powder (baby powder) inside the tire to lubricate the interface.
At least that's what's recommended for bicycles and motorcycles.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 #80121 fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: <cecilth@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: How do you put a tire and tube together.
> --> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
>
> How do you put a tire and tube together?
>
> I mean without pinching the tube. I've tried, carefully, tongue in cheek,
> soft cajoling words and polite curse words so far.
> So I figure some of you thousands of guys, or girls have done this a few
> times. Have any of you figured out an easy way that works every time?
> Cecil Hatfield
> I just know I will wake up in the morning and have the answer. Ain't this
> list great? Yep, I paid my dues last month for the sixth time in six
> years.
> Cecil (again)
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 price jump |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@apex.net>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Yoiks...anybody else notice the huge (for me) jump in price that just
>happened to the ACS2002? It went from $3250 to $3800 (Van's) and $3950
>(Advanced Control Systems). Wow! Not exactly a meager 3% hike.
>
>Sucks to be me...6-12 months away from needing it. Boy, I hope they're not
>catching on to its true value just yet...
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
I been watching for some reports on this product. Any users out there
that can give us there comments? Inquiring minds want to hear from you :-)
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Working on the wings :-)
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: KDMIGAS@aol.com
Don't know what size rivet you need there as I am just finishing wings. I
discovered a great Cherry-Max called a 3214-4-2 which fits a 40 dimple slick
as h---. Used them on the tight spots on ailerons, flaps,and vert
stab..Ouytfit called aero fasteners in socal has them.. Really saved time and
grinding bucking bars
Message 60
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| Subject: | Fw: RE: Weight of Hooker Harnesses for RV-8/A? |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, just in case anyone else cares, here's the answer I got straight
from the horse's mouth for the weight of a set of Hooker 5 poin military
latch sport harnesses for the RV-8. For comparison sake, the Pac Aero
harnesses (no longer in business) which are virtually identical except
without the pads weigh about 3 lbs 9 oz per seat.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D fiberglass until hell freezes over....
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Scott McPhillips" <scott@hookerharness.com>
Subject: RE: Weight of Hooker Harnesses for RV-8/A?
Message-ID:
<9B8DC966664D77468670421AA08DD767D189@hh2000.hooker-harness.bz>
Dear Mark,
Weight is slightly over 4 pounds per seat (5 point harness with
regular foam padding). Please let me know if you have any other
questions.
Scott McPhillips
Hooker Custom Harness, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: czechsix@juno.com [mailto:czechsix@juno.com]
Subject: Re: Weight of Hooker Harnesses for RV-8/A?
Hi Scott, thanks for the prompt reply. I was thinking the "standard"
offering for RV-8's....5 point sport harness with military style latch,
4
pads, and the 1 3/4" wide belt size. I don't need dual lap belts or
extra heavy harness material as I don't plan any inverted or otherwise
rigorous aerobatic maneuvers, and I can't afford the very cool rotary
latch.
Thanks,
--Mark
On Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:01:32 -0600 "Scott McPhillips"
<scott@hookerharness.com> writes:
> Dear Mark,
>
> Which system or you interested in? Weigh will vary based
> on
> type of buckle, pads and harness style? Weigh can range anywhere
> from a
> little over 2 pounds per seat to a little over 8 pounds per seat.
> If I
> know which system you are looking for I can quote you a more
> precise
> weight. Please contact me with any questions.
>
> Regards,
>
> Scott McPhillips
> Hooker Custom Harness, Inc.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: czechsix@juno.com [mailto:czechsix@juno.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:39 AM
> To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> Cc: hoohar@mwci.net; czech6@hotmail.com
> Subject: Weight of Hooker Harnesses for RV-8/A?
>
>
> Does anybody know how much a set of Hooker harnesses for an RV-8/A
> weighs? I'm just curious if anyone has weighed them or if there's
> a
> published weight number for them.
>
> If anyone has this info for a Rocket or RV-4 it's probably close
> enough
> to me an idea....
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D fiberglass....
>
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: How do you put a tire and tube together. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
As has been suggested, I put talcum powder in the tire and roll it around
until all of the inside has a coating of powder then dump the excess out.
Put the inner tube in the tire and put enough air in it to get it seated
wrinkle free in the tire, then leave just enough air in it retain it's
shape. This with a little care should allow the two wheel halves to go
together without pinching the tube.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. 6A wings and emp. parts painted.
----- Original Message -----
From: <cecilth@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: How do you put a tire and tube together.
> --> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
>
> How do you put a tire and tube together?
>
> I mean without pinching the tube. I've tried, carefully, tongue in cheek,
> soft cajoling words and polite curse words so far.
> So I figure some of you thousands of guys, or girls have done this a few
> times. Have any of you figured out an easy way that works every time?
> Cecil Hatfield
> I just know I will wake up in the morning and have the answer. Ain't this
> list great? Yep, I paid my dues last month for the sixth time in six
> years.
> Cecil (again)
>
>
Message 62
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| Subject: | Re: How to buck two dag-bern rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 11:20 AM 12/10/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
You are never going to complete that airplane with such wimpy little swear
words as 'dag-bern'!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
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