Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:45 AM - Re: Re: 360 makes 180 hp (glenn williams)
2. 05:58 AM - Fw: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed (Doug Weiler)
3. 07:36 AM - WTB: Landoll Harmonic Balancer WTS: Pneumatic Rivet Sqeezer (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
4. 08:08 AM - Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer SOLD (Van Artsdalen, Scott)
5. 08:10 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
6. 09:34 AM - Re: Plexi Drill Bits (and plexi drilling, Tip-up) (Elsa & Henry)
7. 09:52 AM - Alternate engine (Bill Irvine)
8. 10:31 AM - Re: Fw: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed (kempthornes)
9. 10:40 AM - Re: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed (kempthornes)
10. 10:45 AM - Re: Alternate engines (kempthornes)
11. 11:02 AM - Re: Alternate engine (JRWillJR@aol.com)
12. 11:15 AM - Re: Seat Belt Data (czechsix@juno.com)
13. 11:18 AM - Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI (czechsix@juno.com)
14. 11:36 AM - Solution to stripped threads in Nosewheel fork (czechsix@juno.com)
15. 11:53 AM - Re: Re: Seat Belt Data (Jim Jewell)
16. 12:12 PM - Reserved N-number (JusCash@aol.com)
17. 12:13 PM - Re: parallel valves (Karen and Robert Brown)
18. 12:19 PM - connector plug for trim wiring cable (Karen and Robert Brown)
19. 12:38 PM - Re: Alternate engine (Tedd McHenry)
20. 12:56 PM - Re: parallel valves (Dan Checkoway)
21. 01:02 PM - Re: parallel valves (Jim Norman)
22. 01:10 PM - Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related) (dmedema@att.net)
23. 01:16 PM - Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs (Steve J Hurlbut)
24. 01:18 PM - Re: Alternate engine (John Starn)
25. 01:23 PM - Re: Alternate engine (Tracy Crook)
26. 01:28 PM - Placement of ELT remote (Knicholas2@aol.com)
27. 01:40 PM - Needed---turn & bank (Chuck Weyant)
28. 01:43 PM - Re: connector plug for trim wiring cable (Rick Galati)
29. 01:58 PM - Re: parallel valves (Ross Schlotthauer)
30. 01:58 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote ()
31. 02:10 PM - Re: Re: Seat Belt Data (Elsa & Henry)
32. 02:18 PM - Re: Needed---turn & bank (Ralph E. Capen)
33. 02:34 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Joshua Siler)
34. 02:35 PM - S-curved Stick for -8 (Jack Blomgren)
35. 02:43 PM - Re: connector plug for trim wiring cable (Ellis H Mcgaughy)
36. 02:51 PM - Re: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs (Sam Buchanan)
37. 02:56 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Stein Bruch)
38. 03:00 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Don R Jordan)
39. 03:00 PM - Re: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs (Don R Jordan)
40. 03:05 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
41. 03:13 PM - Re: parallel valves (Norman)
42. 03:34 PM - Re: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs (Kyle Boatright)
43. 04:00 PM - Re: Alternate engine (Rob Prior)
44. 04:06 PM - Re: S-curved Stick for -8 (Randy Lervold)
45. 05:49 PM - Re: Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater (Patrick Kelley)
46. 06:19 PM - Re: Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
47. 06:31 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Dave Bristol)
48. 06:34 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Dave Bristol)
49. 07:16 PM - Re: parallel valves (Richard Sipp)
50. 08:55 PM - Re: Alternate engine (Kysh)
51. 08:57 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Ross A. Scroggs)
52. 10:41 PM - Re: Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related) (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: 360 makes 180 hp |
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn williams <willig10@yahoo.com>
Mr Hal Kempthorne I believe I said do not archive. As
I will do now. Now who is showing their personal
feelings?
do not archive
--- kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes
> <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> Someone (who cares who) wrote:
>
> >However my personal fear factor will not let me
> >use this combination on my aircraft. I will go with
> >the aircraft engine everytime.
>
> Several of you have said that you would not like a
> converted auto engine in
> your aircraft. I hate to sound callous but I don't
> give a damn. Your
> personal feelings are probably not of interest to
> most of the list. At
> very least, include Do Not Archive.
>
> Let's keep our feelings to ourselves.
>
> No one cares who I am.
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Glenn Williams
8A
A&P
N81GW
Message 2
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| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Whats the max RPM it is recommended to run a O-360 for the run of it's
life
> bearing in mind a cruise altitude of say 6000 to 8000 feet? Translate that
> into the max speed and that's what I want. Of course if it were possible
to
> go just a little bit slower but have a much lower fuel burn then that
would
> make more sense. Otherwise max speed please.
>
> I don't have any RV time but I've read a thousand times how they climb
close
> to 2000 feet a minute with a O-360 CS. It would seem to my inexperienced
> brain that one would still have good climbing ability even if one traded
> some climb for cruise speed.
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
I race my 180 hp with CS prop RV-4 with several of my local flying buddies.
I am just a little faster than a friend's RV-6, 180 hp with the Sensenich FP
prop. He and I are evenly matched for speed when I run at 22" and 2375 rpm
at, say, 6000', and he is running 24" and 2600 rpm.
There is no substitute to a CS prop for climb. I can easily climb 3000 fpm
at 120 msp IAS (solo) on a nice cold Wisconsin day. It is a kick!
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
Message 3
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| Subject: | WTB: Landoll Harmonic Balancer WTS: Pneumatic Rivet Sqeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Good morning/day/evening to you where ever you are!
I was wondering if anyone had one of Mark Landoll's harmonic balancers they
might want to part with. I'm going to be needing some weight on the nose of
my RV-4 if I'm going to be able to haul anyone of any size. These
lightweight starters and alternators are great but they sure don't do much
for my CG situation.
Also, I am selling my pneumatic rivet squeezer that I bought from Cleveland.
They are selling for $565, I'll take $250 or best REASONABLE offer. I'll
pay shipping.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2653.12">
WTB: Landoll Harmonic Balancer WTS: Pneumatic Rivet Sqeezer
Good morning/day/evening to you where ever you are!
I was wondering if anyone had one of Mark Landoll's harmonic balancers they might
want to part with. I'm going to be needing some weight on the nose of my RV-4
if I'm going to be able to haul anyone of any size. These lightweight starters
and alternators are great but they sure don't do much for my CG situation.
Also, I am selling my pneumatic rivet squeezer that I bought from Cleveland. They
are selling for $565, I'll take $250 or best REASONABLE offer. I'll pay shipping.
<A NAME"_MailAutoSig">--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
Message 4
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| Subject: | Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer SOLD |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Van Artsdalen, Scott" <svanarts@unionsafe.com>
Do not archive
--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2653.12">
Pneumatic Rivet Squeezer SOLD
Do not archive
<A NAME"_MailAutoSig">--
Scott VanArtsdalen, MCSE, CCNA
Network Manager
Union Safe Deposit Bank
209-946-5116
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
The early results are interesting.
5 for "cruise" prop
0 for "maximum speed" prop
1 comment without an obvious choice.
Could this actually be a historical point on the RV-list;
where there is conscientious? :-)
Jim Ayers
RV-3 N47RV sn 50 Constant Speed "Cruise" Prop being installed
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drill Bits (and plexi drilling, Tip-up) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
In an off-list reply to Norman, earlier, re canopy plexi drilling, I stated
the reasons why so many builders have had trouble with their plexi drilling
at the front just before the curvature around the corner on the C-602* nose
skin: The problem is, that skin does not have a joggle to match the one in
the WD-625A* frame side panel, in which a trimmed plexi nests, so the plexi
bulges out as it goes over the step there. My solution was to cut a slot,
about 2 1/2" to 3" long in the C-602 skin, just below the plexi trim line
following around the corner so that the skin and plexi will continue
smoothly around the corner. The slot will be covered by the fiberglass
fairing anyway. Worked great!
Re drills: Under no circumstances should a drill bit with standard rake be
used on plexi.! It will dig in and form curly swarf and pull itself through!
An invitation to a crack to happen! If you don't have a proper plexi drill,
grind the point so that there is no rake and try it on a piece of scrap. The
drill should produce plexi dust, not curls, as it penetrates. If you still
get curls, you are probably pushing too hard or the rake removal is not
proper.
Cheers!!---------Henry
(*) The part no's are the ones in my 1995 RV6-A Tip-up kit
Message 7
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| Subject: | Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
> A horizontally-opposed, direct-drive, water-cooled,
> 6-cylinder engine. 375 CID, 200 HP (maybe a bit
> more), fuel-injected....
Thanks for all the thoughts and feedback. So, do I
understand correctly, weight and cost are the single
most important aspects of a new engine? You wouldn't
buy an engine that was more reliable, more durable and
cheaper to overhaul if is was heavier and cost more?
Does everyone feel this way? Personally, I'd take the
100 lb hit if it meant I could climb in my plane, hit
the button and fly away, time after time, for 1500
hours without tearing the engine apart. But maybe
that's just me.
Someone asked how my engine compares to the Cool Jugs.
The Cool Jugs are a great idea, I just carried it a
step further and intergrated the cylinders with the
block.
Someone else asked why I don't just take a Chevy V-6,
make a custom crank that will accept a prop and invert
the engine. Well, there are enormous oil-control
problems with an inverted engine. Plus, there are
many airplanes designed for a horizontally-opposed
engine that don't have the room for an inverted
engine. But most importantly, inverted engines just
look goofy. A lot of our decisions are emotional.
(How else can you explain buying a Corvette instead of
a mini-van? The mini-van is far more practical, but
not nearly as much fun.) And, to me, an inverted-V
engine just looks goofy. I don't think many people
would buy it.
BTW, another commented that this belongs on the
engines list. I put it here because the RV market is
the largest potential market, and I wanted your
opinions. I'm not interested in what some guy
building an ultra-light thinks about a 200 HP engine.
Someone else asked "why take the gamble?" Exactly.
I've seen new engines for sale at OSH, and when I
asked, "Where's your test plane? How many hours do
you have on your engine?" I got blank stares or a
mumbled "Ah, we're working on that...." The key to
making this project a commercial success is, when
someone askes those same questions, to be able to
point and say, "There's the test plane and we have
over 1000 trouble-free hours on the engine so far.
Want to go for a ride?"
The problem I have is I don't have time to build a new
engine AND a new RV-7/8/10. So, does anyone want to
volunteer their plane to be the test plane, in
exchange for a free engine? Any takers? C'mon guys,
you all bitch and moan about how unreliable and
ancient Lycomings are; here's your chance to use a
modern, reliable engine. Who's gonna step up to the
plate and swing?
Some drive a Yugo, some drive a Ferrari...
Bill
wgirvine@yahoo.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 07:55 AM 12/18/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
>There is no substitute to a CS prop for climb. I can easily climb 3000 fpm
>at 120 msp IAS (solo) on a nice cold Wisconsin day. It is a kick!
Sure there is! Try a fixed pitch prop pitched to give the same speed and
climb at an even greater rate due to lower induced drag.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed Prop - Cruise vs maximum speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 10:59 PM 12/17/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
>Whats the max RPM it is recommended to run a O-360 for the run of it's life
>bearing in mind a cruise altitude of say 6000 to 8000 feet?
I don't know just now where to look for this information but longevity is
more related to percent of full power than to just RPM. Long life of the
engine comes from asking less of it. Flying high and slow is the best
economy of both fuel and engine. Often, flying high is also the best for
speed - usually when going east as the winds are strong up there.
When I worked for Simpson Timber I would too frequently be called on to go
to Whitecourt, Alberta in the company Lear 24. It was fast. Many of those
trips were over too soon. If we enjoy flight, why go so fast?
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 09:26 PM 12/16/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
>
>Since so many people are unhappy with Lycoming
>engines, how would you guys feel about the
>following...?
I feel like I do when I hear any advertisement that sounds great. I feel
like asking, "How much????"
And then I feel disappointed.
Do Not Archive
hal
>A horizontally-opposed, direct-drive, water-cooled, 6
>cylinder engine. 375 CID, 200 HP (maybe a bit more),
><snip>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
In a message dated 12/18/2002 11:58:11 AM Central Standard Time,
wgirvine@yahoo.com writes:
> Thanks for all the thoughts and feedback. So, do I
> understand correctly, weight and cost are the single
> most important aspects of a new engine? You wouldn't
> buy an engine that was more reliable, more durable and
> cheaper to overhaul if is was heavier and cost more?
> Does everyone feel this way? Personally, I'd take the
> 100 lb hit if it meant I could climb in my plane, hit
> the button and fly away, time after time, for 1500
> hours without tearing the engine apart. But maybe
> that's just me.
I could not resist answering because I was thinking this might be an April
Fools Joke. Building a new engine for manufacturing is a massive undertaking
well beyond building a single airplane from a kit. Butttttt, to answer the
question, No, I would not accept the 100 lbs weight penalty. That is a huge
increase in weight for an RV. For some other airframe it might be acceptable
but for an RV it is not acceptable. You only have to take the typical
finished weight, fuel weight, the weight of two 190 pounders and see there is
not a lot of room left over for baggage much less aerobatic considerations
and then add an engine that is 100 lbs heavier!!--no way would I be
interested. Most guys, at least me are going to want a 2000 hour TBO not a
1500 hour. I would think the cost advantage would need to be no more than
2/3s or less the price of a Lycoming. The engine would have to be able to use
controllable propellers, and be capable in some versions of being aerobatic.
This kind of thinking might lead to something along the lines of the Jabiru 8
cylinder. The "more reliable" part--well it is possible to build an engine
with the potential to be more reliable but until it goes through the
certification process and more importantly accumulates actual flight time it
is not realistic (my opinion) to make the "more reliable" statement. Not
intended as a flame, from dreams come amazing things. Air-cooled boats except
for airboats are kinda rare and I think that water cooled aerial vessels are
-- well--like a fish out of water. Do Not Archive. JR
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Data |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Norman, not that it matters, but I just received the LAST set of RV-8 Pac Aero
5 point harnesses and they are virtually identical in every way to the Hookers
as far as I can tell (1.75" belt width, military latches, etc) EXCEPT they don't
have the pads. They weigh 3 lbs 9 oz (or 3.56 lbs) for each seat....I just
took them out of the box a couple weeks ago and weighed them with a DIGITAL
scale.
Where did you get the 4.5 lbs number? That doesn't sound like it could be right
to me....even if my scale was off a bit I'd say they have to be lighter than
the Hookers which, as I said, appear identical except for the addition of four
pads per seat (which will only weigh a few ounces and would make the Hooker
claim of 3.9 lbs per seat seem to be in line with what I've measured on the Pac
Aeros).
One question relevant to this noble effort on your part to document harness weights...have
you considered the differences in RV model? Maybe it's negligible
but it might be interesting to confirm whether an RV-8 harness and RV-6/7/9 harness
have the same weights...
Best regards,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass....
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Data
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Here are some seat belt details. All prices USD. Canadians see the bottom for the
best domestic deal.
This post could use more details. Help!
<snip>
PACIFIC AERO HARNESS
These are the ones that Van used to sell but he has gone out of buisness recently
due to supplier cost increases. His 5 point belts weighed 4.5 lbs. Webpage
not available anymore.
<snip>
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
CASCAR Sportsman #96 team owner/driver (working twards 2004 Super Series, just
need another quarter mil or so)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, I got this info from Dynon and just thought I'd pass it on to the List, FYI,
in case anyone's interested...
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
--------------------------------------------------
Mark,
1. The AOA/Pitot Probe does not include a static port. We recommend you
use the static system recommended by the designer of your plane.
2. There is no audio output from the EFIS-D10 at this time. It is on our
list of possible future enhancements.
3. We anticipate the AOA/pitot probe will be available several months
behind the EFIS-D10. We may release an unheated version somewhat earlier if
there is interest.
Thank you for you continued patience and interest.
Gillian C. Torode
Business Manager
Dynon Development Inc.
19501 144th Ave NE
Suite C-500
Woodinville, WA 98072
(425)402-4404 Phone (425)984-1751 Fax
-----Original Message-----
From: menavrat@rockwellcollins.com [mailto:menavrat@rockwellcollins.com]
Subject: Pitot/AOA questions
Hi Gillian, a few questions on your pitot/AOA system:
1) Does your pitot have a static port too? Your website description is a
bit confusing....it says there's a pitot port and another port to measure
changing air pressure for AOA, and doesn't specifically mention a static
port but sort of implies that it's there or is somehow derived from the
other two ports ("Pressures from these ports on the pitot are sensed with
silicon-based semiconductor pressure sensors and analyzed by the EFIS-D10
to translate the pressure data into angle of attack, airspeed, and
altitude."
Just wondering if I need seperate static ports or if I can hook up my
static system to your probe?
2) Is there a way to drive an aural tone to warn of impending stall due to
high AOA? This seems to be one of the greatest advantages of an AOA system
but on your wiring diagram I don't see anything clearly indicating an audio
output....
3) Are you planning to have the pitot/AOA probe available at the same time
as the EFIS D-10, or do you plan to phase it in later when you've got more
flight test data? I have an RV-8 if it makes any difference....
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A finishing....with hole in panel for D-10....
Message 14
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| Subject: | Solution to stripped threads in Nosewheel fork |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, I thought I'd post the solution to the stripped threads in the forward bracket
attach points on the nosewheel fork in case anyone else can benefit. I
was going to use helicoils, but ran into a couple issues, the first being the
cost....helicoils use a special, non-standard tap and special installation tool.
My local ACE Hardware store charges about $40 for the tap and inst. tool,
which was a bit more than I could stomach for a one-time repair, and I couldn't
find anyone who had a set to borrow. In addition, a couple guys I talked to
who have lots of experience on cars said that helicoils work ok for a one-time
fix but if it's something you need to remove and install on an ongoing basis,
they don't hold up too well.
What was recommended to me is a type of threaded insert that has standard external
threads (so you can use a standard--read "much less expensive"--tap) and internal
threads to match whatever you originally had in the hole you are repairing.
McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) sells a wide variety of these. I ended
up using P/N 90259A147 which is self-locking (comes with a micro-encapsulated
epoxy that activates when you screw it in) and costs a whopping $1.26 each.
The internal threads are 3/8 X 24 (same as the nosewheel fork) and the external
threads are 1/2 x 13. No special tools required, I bought a 1/2 X 13 tap at
ACE Hardware for $5, tapped the holes, and screwed the inserts in using the
original 3/8 X 24 bolts that came with the nosewheel kit.
Given what I've experienced if I were to build another nosedragger today I'd probly
just go ahead and put the inserts in to begin with...much more robust than
the threaded aluminum.
FWIW.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Data |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Mark,
Norman got the Pac Aero weight figures from me. As they are no longer
available I did not try to weigh the belts accurately I just used our
bathroom scale and came up with 8 to 9 lbs. Obviously the poor scale is not
used to such light treatment. :) Of course it could have been lying to me
all these years. ):-)!
I wish!!
Thanks for the correction.
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Seat Belt Data
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Norman, not that it matters, but I just received the LAST set of RV-8 Pac
Aero 5 point harnesses and they are virtually identical in every way to the
Hookers as far as I can tell (1.75" belt width, military latches, etc)
EXCEPT they don't have the pads. They weigh 3 lbs 9 oz (or 3.56 lbs) for
each seat....I just took them out of the box a couple weeks ago and weighed
them with a DIGITAL scale.
>
> Where did you get the 4.5 lbs number? That doesn't sound like it could be
right to me....even if my scale was off a bit I'd say they have to be
lighter than the Hookers which, as I said, appear identical except for the
addition of four pads per seat (which will only weigh a few ounces and would
make the Hooker claim of 3.9 lbs per seat seem to be in line with what I've
measured on the Pac Aeros).
>
> One question relevant to this noble effort on your part to document
harness weights...have you considered the differences in RV model? Maybe
it's negligible but it might be interesting to confirm whether an RV-8
harness and RV-6/7/9 harness have the same weights...
>
> Best regards,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...fiberglass....
>
>
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Subject: RV-List: Seat Belt Data
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> Here are some seat belt details. All prices USD. Canadians see the bottom
for the
> best domestic deal.
> This post could use more details. Help!
>
> <snip>
>
> PACIFIC AERO HARNESS
> These are the ones that Van used to sell but he has gone out of buisness
recently
> due to supplier cost increases. His 5 point belts weighed 4.5 lbs. Webpage
> not available anymore.
>
> <snip>
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> CASCAR Sportsman #96 team owner/driver (working twards 2004 Super Series,
just
> need another quarter mil or so)
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Reserved N-number |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Is any one on the list interested in having N7QB? I have had this N-number
reserved for many years and have decided not to renew it. Thought it would
be nice to see on one of the new RV7's. For a donation to the RV-list it's
yours.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: parallel valves |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
I'm struggling with this one myself. All my A&P relatives say it is dirt simple
to build a parallel valve, fuel injected 360 to put out 200HP (by flow porting
and running 9 or 10:1 pistons). These same people all tell me that this will
not reduce the life of the engine, nor put any undue stress on it. It WILL
allow one to save about 40 lbs of weight. My uncle commented that it seemed
many more angle valve 360's come to him with cracked cylinders than the parallel
valve versions...not sure what that means in terms of making my engine choice.
I spent an afternoon talking with the engine builders Ly-Con's engine shop in Visalia,
CA a few months ago, and they confirm that most of the high compression
parallel valve360's they build have had no problem at all making TBO, certainly
no problem related to upping the compression to dyno out at 200-210HP.
So what's the answer? If what I'm hearing is true, then a parallel valve, fuel
injected 360 with a forward facing induction system and high compression pistons
is the way to go.
I can't see why I'd want to pay 10k more for an engine that weighs 40 lbs more
and puts out THE SAME POWER.
I welcome real world experience on this question...I need to order an engine.
Bob Brown
RV7A- fuselage wiring
Message 18
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| Subject: | connector plug for trim wiring cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
Somewhere lately I saw a photo of a really small (1/4"x1/8") connector plug that
was perfect to use on the 5 wire (each wire is 26 ga) cable I have for the MAC
trim system. The person who posted the photo said they used the same plugs
inside the control sticks. I seem to remember they came from an RC hobby shop,
but I have visited several in the last few weeks and they don't have anything
like that.
The plug I saw had pins that soldered onto the wires, which were then covered with
heatshrink tubing and inserted into the plug. The plug itself was then covered
with heatshrink tubing.
does this ring any bells with anyone?
Bob Brown
RV7A fuselage - wiring
do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Air-cooled boats except
> for airboats are kinda rare and I think that water cooled aerial vessels are
> -- well--like a fish out of water.
I think it bears noting, given this analogy, that a "liquid-cooled" engine is
air cooled. It just uses a liquid heat transfer medium. As do all Lycomings
(i.e. oil).
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: parallel valves |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm certainly not trying to convince you of anything, but here's what I went
with...
In my case I wanted as much power as I could get while still staying within
the general guidelines of a certificated-ish engine (although mine will be
an experimental engine). I ended up having Bart take a 200hp angle valve
IO-360-A1B6 core and build it with Airflow Performance injection and a
single Lightspeed Plasma II. Supposedly that configuration has dyno'd out
to around 220hp.
Swapping the right mag for the Lightspeed, having no vacuum pump, a
lightweight alternator & starter, and using a Whirlwind 150 composite prop
(to shave about 20 pounds off the Hartzell aluminum config), my powerplant
will weigh in roughly the same as a stock 180hp powerplant, but it will be
producing close to 40hp more, performing better (theoretically) at altitude,
etc.
Plus it will have the counterweighted crankshaft. If you take the 180hp
core and add a c-weighted crank, you're adding several pounds there. Check
the TCDS and you'll see what I mean.
Worth the extra $10k? For me, yes. Haven't flown it yet, but we'll see.
I know, we're comparing apples to oranges. But it's food for thought
nonetheless.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: parallel valves
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
>
> I'm struggling with this one myself. All my A&P relatives say it is dirt
simple to build a parallel valve, fuel injected 360 to put out 200HP (by
flow porting and running 9 or 10:1 pistons). These same people all tell me
that this will not reduce the life of the engine, nor put any undue stress
on it. It WILL allow one to save about 40 lbs of weight. My uncle
commented that it seemed many more angle valve 360's come to him with
cracked cylinders than the parallel valve versions...not sure what that
means in terms of making my engine choice.
>
> I spent an afternoon talking with the engine builders Ly-Con's engine shop
in Visalia, CA a few months ago, and they confirm that most of the high
compression parallel valve360's they build have had no problem at all making
TBO, certainly no problem related to upping the compression to dyno out at
200-210HP.
>
> So what's the answer? If what I'm hearing is true, then a parallel valve,
fuel injected 360 with a forward facing induction system and high
compression pistons is the way to go.
>
> I can't see why I'd want to pay 10k more for an engine that weighs 40 lbs
more and puts out THE SAME POWER.
>
> I welcome real world experience on this question...I need to order an
engine.
>
> Bob Brown
> RV7A- fuselage wiring
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
Rob,
What you are describing is exactly what Bart Lallond built for me. Every
part is new, except a one-run block. 9.5:1 pistons, Air Flow Performance
fuel injection (forward facing), Lightspeed Engineering electronic ignition
(right side only, Slick magneto on the left), Melenium cylinders, etc.
I told Bart "Build me what you would build yourself". This is what I got.
He told me the same thing you have heard from the guys at Lycon...don'
believe there to be an issue about getting the engine to TBO. The only
concern Bart noted was that if we can't get AvGas, then the high comp
pistons will have to be changed... I would recommend Bart to anyone.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Karen and Robert
Brown
Subject: Re: RV-List: parallel valves
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
I'm struggling with this one myself. All my A&P relatives say it is dirt
simple to build a parallel valve, fuel injected 360 to put out 200HP (by
flow porting and running 9 or 10:1 pistons). These same people all tell me
that this will not reduce the life of the engine, nor put any undue stress
on it. It WILL allow one to save about 40 lbs of weight. My uncle
commented that it seemed many more angle valve 360's come to him with
cracked cylinders than the parallel valve versions...not sure what that
means in terms of making my engine choice.
I spent an afternoon talking with the engine builders Ly-Con's engine shop
in Visalia, CA a few months ago, and they confirm that most of the high
compression parallel valve360's they build have had no problem at all making
TBO, certainly no problem related to upping the compression to dyno out at
200-210HP.
So what's the answer? If what I'm hearing is true, then a parallel valve,
fuel injected 360 with a forward facing induction system and high
compression pistons is the way to go.
I can't see why I'd want to pay 10k more for an engine that weighs 40 lbs
more and puts out THE SAME POWER.
I welcome real world experience on this question...I need to order an
engine.
Bob Brown
RV7A- fuselage wiring
Message 22
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| Subject: | Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related) |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Alright all you Flight Simulator junkies: can you recommend
your favorite input devices such as control wheels/sticks and
rudder pedals. My daughter (14 years old) is into airplanes
and we recently upgraded our computer to handle a copy of
FS2002 she bought. I'm looking for some input devices for
a Christmas present for her.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276 (reserved) finishing up!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Can someone give me a part number for Aircraft Spruce (or page number) for
some chrome plugs (or
stainless, or whatever) that would go in the side of the fiberglass wheel
pants for access to the main bolts?
I already have the spring loaded 1" camloc doors for the tire pressure.
Steve
RV7A
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Many years ago (1968) a good friend and member of our Corvette club sold his
'67 427 tri power 425/450HP Corvette and bought a very used '65 VW bug
because it got better gas milage than the 'vette. We took the number of
miles he drove in a year, figured out the savings for a year by driving the
VW. Gas was cheaper then and he was going to save a little more than $300.00
a year. $300.00.... thats less than a $1.00 a day. I told him "I wouldn't
drive that piece of s--t for $10.00 a day" and that the resale value of the
'vette would only go up. Have you priced a '67 Corvette lately, its value
is now between $35,000 and $65,000 or more than $1,000.00 a year. Bottom
line: Drive/fly what you love, going cheap only costs more in the long run.
KABONG
---- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Irvine" <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alternate engine
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
>
> > A horizontally-opposed, direct-drive, water-cooled,
> > 6-cylinder engine. 375 CID, 200 HP (maybe a bit
> > more), fuel-injected....
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts and feedback. So, do I
> understand correctly, weight and cost are the single
> most important aspects of a new engine? You wouldn't
> buy an engine that was more reliable, more durable and
> cheaper to overhaul if is was heavier and cost more?
> Does everyone feel this way? Personally, I'd take the
> 100 lb hit if it meant I could climb in my plane, hit
> the button and fly away, time after time, for 1500
> hours without tearing the engine apart. But maybe
> that's just me.
>
> Someone asked how my engine compares to the Cool Jugs.
> The Cool Jugs are a great idea, I just carried it a
> step further and intergrated the cylinders with the
> block.
>
> Someone else asked why I don't just take a Chevy V-6,
> make a custom crank that will accept a prop and invert
> the engine. Well, there are enormous oil-control
> problems with an inverted engine. Plus, there are
> many airplanes designed for a horizontally-opposed
> engine that don't have the room for an inverted
> engine. But most importantly, inverted engines just
> look goofy. A lot of our decisions are emotional.
> (How else can you explain buying a Corvette instead of
> a mini-van? The mini-van is far more practical, but
> not nearly as much fun.) And, to me, an inverted-V
> engine just looks goofy. I don't think many people
> would buy it.
>
> BTW, another commented that this belongs on the
> engines list. I put it here because the RV market is
> the largest potential market, and I wanted your
> opinions. I'm not interested in what some guy
> building an ultra-light thinks about a 200 HP engine.
>
> Someone else asked "why take the gamble?" Exactly.
> I've seen new engines for sale at OSH, and when I
> asked, "Where's your test plane? How many hours do
> you have on your engine?" I got blank stares or a
> mumbled "Ah, we're working on that...." The key to
> making this project a commercial success is, when
> someone askes those same questions, to be able to
> point and say, "There's the test plane and we have
> over 1000 trouble-free hours on the engine so far.
> Want to go for a ride?"
>
> The problem I have is I don't have time to build a new
> engine AND a new RV-7/8/10. So, does anyone want to
> volunteer their plane to be the test plane, in
> exchange for a free engine? Any takers? C'mon guys,
> you all bitch and moan about how unreliable and
> ancient Lycomings are; here's your chance to use a
> modern, reliable engine. Who's gonna step up to the
> plate and swing?
>
> Some drive a Yugo, some drive a Ferrari...
>
> Bill
> wgirvine@yahoo.com
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> Bill
> wgirvine@yahoo.com
> The key to
> making this project a commercial success is, when
> someone askes those same questions, to be able to
> point and say, "There's the test plane and we have
> over 1000 trouble-free hours on the engine so far.
> Want to go for a ride?"
Been there, done that! :-)
And the Mazda 13B rotary installation weighs the same as a Lyc O - 320.
I agree with those who think the 100 pound increase is a non-starter, even
if it has the advantage of direct drive.
I also agree with whoever said that it is the added accessories that are the
major reliability concern on an alternative engine. I believe that the
rotary is equal or better than the Lycoming in reliability, it is the
reduction drive that I think about when I'm flying my plane. Which brings
me to the real point of this post.
Every known failure mode of my reduction drive will manifest itself by the
presence of metal chips (steel) in the oil return line from the drive. This
happens long before a possible catestrophic failure. If I had a good chip
detector, it would increase my confidence level during flight at least 500%.
I found one source of chip detectors (used in helicopter transmissions) but
the price was way beyond reasonable. Anyone out there aware of any at
reasonable prices? If not, I'll have to add this to my list of things to
design.
Tracy Crook
13B powered RV-4 , 1300+ hrs.
20B powered RV-8, Getting ready for final cut on canopy.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with lights
and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post between the
seats. So whattdaya think?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - finishing......
Message 27
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| Subject: | Needed---turn & bank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
Hey guys, I am installing the instrument panel and discovered that the turn and
bank I have is 1" inch too long. The rear of the instrument hits that gusset
off the longeron behind the instrument panel on the left side.
Does anyone have an extra Turn & Bank they'd like to sell thats 4 inches or less
in length? Electric or Vacuum would be okay. My electric is older but works
fine if anyone is interested in a trade.
Chuck Weyant
RV9A (Panel Building --- yeah!!!)
do not archive
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: connector plug for trim wiring cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Bob,
I made my 2 axis trim "quick disconnect" from the control surfaces with 5
pin connectors available from Radio Shack. The part numbers are 274-003A for the
5-pin plug and 274-005C for the 5-pin socket. Slight
modification of the plug may be desirable, but the receptacle (socket) can be
used as is. -- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" bkbrown@wmca.net
Somewhere lately I saw a photo of a really small (1/4"x1/8") connector plug that
was perfect to use on the 5 wire (each wire is 26 ga) cable I have for the MAC
trim system. The person who posted the photo said they used the same plugs
inside the control sticks. I seem to remember they came from an RC hobby shop,
but I have visited several in the last few weeks and they don't have anything
like that.
The plug I saw had pins that soldered onto the wires, which were then covered with
heatshrink tubing and inserted into the plug. The plug itself was then covered
with heatshrink tubing.
does this ring any bells with anyone?
Bob Brown
RV7A fuselage - wiring
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: parallel valves |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer <rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
Bob,
I am by no means an engine guru but in talking with
folks that should know, the big difference between
fuel injecting the parallel valve engine and
IO-360-A1B6 is the counterweighted crank. I have been
told the crank is where the 40 pounds is at and that
makes alot of sense to me. Those counterweights
smooth out four cylinders firing out 200 hp. The 180
hp parallel engine is not nearly as smooth running,
much less a modififed 200 hp version.
This is what I have been told.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 fuse
--- Karen and Robert Brown <bkbrown@wmca.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert
> Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
>
> I'm struggling with this one myself. All my A&P
> relatives say it is dirt simple to build a parallel
> valve, fuel injected 360 to put out 200HP (by flow
> porting and running 9 or 10:1 pistons). These same
> people all tell me that this will not reduce the
> life of the engine, nor put any undue stress on it.
> It WILL allow one to save about 40 lbs of weight.
> My uncle commented that it seemed many more angle
> valve 360's come to him with cracked cylinders than
> the parallel valve versions...not sure what that
> means in terms of making my engine choice.
>
> I spent an afternoon talking with the engine
> builders Ly-Con's engine shop in Visalia, CA a few
> months ago, and they confirm that most of the high
> compression parallel valve360's they build have had
> no problem at all making TBO, certainly no problem
> related to upping the compression to dyno out at
> 200-210HP.
>
> So what's the answer? If what I'm hearing is true,
> then a parallel valve, fuel injected 360 with a
> forward facing induction system and high compression
> pistons is the way to go.
>
> I can't see why I'd want to pay 10k more for an
> engine that weighs 40 lbs more and puts out THE SAME
> POWER.
>
> I welcome real world experience on this question...I
> need to order an engine.
>
> Bob Brown
> RV7A- fuselage wiring
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: <recapen@earthlink.net>
I was thinking of putting mine in the same place. I think that I remember
reading somewhere that it had to be "within reach of the pilot" in order to
reset or manually activate.
I guess I better check the regs again - unless someone else quotes it here
first...
Ralph Capen
RV6A
On Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:24:20 EST Knicholas2@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by:
> Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a
> small remote panel with lights
> and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that
> this HAS to be on the
> instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere
> else? My panel is pretty
> crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the
> center support post between the
> seats. So whattdaya think?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - finishing......
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the
> about this
> your generous
> the Contributions
> ads or any other
> Forums.
> latest messages.
> other List members.
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Data |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Jim, just climb on your scale and your weight,-- =X, then have someone hand
you the harness, now total weight-- =Y;---Y-X = Harness weight! "Elementary
my dear Watson"
Cheers!!--Henry.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Needed---turn & bank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"<recapen@earthlink.net>
I've seen the horizontal part of that gussett with a wedge shaped part taken
out (pointing aft) with the vertical part bent to the left and reattached to
make room.
Don't remember where I saw it - I may end up needing something like that
myself - gotta check and see as my autopilot goes all the way back.
Might be in the archives for the 6(a) models...
Ralph Capen
On Thu, 19 Dec 2002 13:42:19 -0800 Chuck Weyant <chuck@chuckdirect.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant"
>
> Hey guys, I am installing the instrument panel
> and discovered that the turn and bank I have is
> 1" inch too long. The rear of the instrument
> hits that gusset off the longeron behind the
> instrument panel on the left side.
>
> Does anyone have an extra Turn & Bank they'd
> like to sell thats 4 inches or less in length?
> Electric or Vacuum would be okay. My electric
> is older but works fine if anyone is interested
> in a trade.
> Chuck Weyant
> RV9A (Panel Building --- yeah!!!)
> do not archive
>
>
> Month --
> Gifts!)
> Click on the
> about this
> your generous
> the Contributions
> ads or any other
> Forums.
> latest messages.
> other List members.
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
I flew a Piper Archer the other day that had the ELT switch mounted on
the wall near the pilot's armrest.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Knicholas2@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Placement of ELT remote
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with
lights
and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post
between the
seats. So whattdaya think?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - finishing......
=
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | S-curved Stick for -8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Have any -8 builders reformed their front stick a la Llyle Hefel's design?
If so, please share dimensions and bending method. Particularly, can the
stick material be successfully bent cold using some electrical conduit
bender (or press with shaped blocks), or is (red) heat required for the
correct method and a better product?
Thanks,
Jack Blomgren
Minnesota Wing
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: connector plug for trim wiring cable |
12/18/2002 05:40:21 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ellis H Mcgaughy" <Ellis.H.Mcgaughy-1@USA.dupont.com>
What you are probably talking about are "dean's pin connectors." They
come in various pin numbers. I have used 2, 3, and 4 pin connectors.
They probably make a 5 pin connector as well. Check with someone like
Tower Hobbies (mail order ... found on the web, etc.).
"Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>@matronics.com on 12/18/2002
03:17:38 PM
Please respond to rv-list@matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: connector plug for trim wiring cable
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@wmca.net>
Somewhere lately I saw a photo of a really small (1/4"x1/8") connector plug
that was perfect to use on the 5 wire (each wire is 26 ga) cable I have for
the MAC trim system. The person who posted the photo said they used the
same plugs inside the control sticks. I seem to remember they came from an
RC hobby shop, but I have visited several in the last few weeks and they
don't have anything like that.
The plug I saw had pins that soldered onto the wires, which were then
covered with heatshrink tubing and inserted into the plug. The plug itself
was then covered with heatshrink tubing.
does this ring any bells with anyone?
Bob Brown
RV7A fuselage - wiring
do not archive
This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender
by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless
explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended",
this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment,
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a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing
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Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Steve, check in the aviation (plumbing) department of your local Home
Depot or Lowes; you are looking "hole plugs", should be an assortment of
sizes in a blister pack.
You may need to tweak the spring tangs on the plugs to accommodate the
thickness of the fiberglass.
Sam Buchanan
=========================
Steve J Hurlbut wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> Can someone give me a part number for Aircraft Spruce (or page number) for
> some chrome plugs (or
> stainless, or whatever) that would go in the side of the fiberglass wheel
> pants for access to the main bolts?
>
> I already have the spring loaded 1" camloc doors for the tire pressure.
>
> Steve
> RV7A
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I mounted mine in the the right cabin deck on the passenger side. Fits in
there nice and neatly, looks like it was supposed to go there!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch, Rv6 Flying-Minneapolis
RV7 Empennage.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Knicholas2@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Placement of ELT remote
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with lights
and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post between
the
seats. So whattdaya think?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - finishing......
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don R Jordan <dons6a@juno.com>
Kim:
I installed mine behind the copilot seat. & got by with it. you need to
be able to reach it or install the control.
I can't reach it in flight, so will install the control one of these
days.
You know they play reverse the wires , if you cut your cable.
Don Jordan - RV6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
**************************************************
On Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:24:20 EST Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel
> with lights
> and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on
> the
> instrument panel? Can it be mounted somewhere else? My panel is
> pretty
> crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post
> between the
> seats. So whattdaya think?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - finishing......
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don R Jordan <dons6a@juno.com>
Your local hardware store shold have them.
Don Jordan - RV6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
On Wed, 18 Dec 2002 16:11:45 -0500 "Steve J Hurlbut"
<sjhdcl@kingston.net> writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut"
> <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> Can someone give me a part number for Aircraft Spruce (or page
> number) for
> some chrome plugs (or
> stainless, or whatever) that would go in the side of the fiberglass
> wheel
> pants for access to the main bolts?
>
> I already have the spring loaded 1" camloc doors for the tire
> pressure.
>
> Steve
> RV7A
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Try this on for size. Its is creative so the FAA may not like it but here
it goes.
How about eliminating it and adding a placard saying to check 121.5 before
shut down.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Knicholas2@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Placement of ELT remote
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with lights
and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post between
the
seats. So whattdaya think?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - finishing......
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> The only
> concern Bart noted was that if we can't get AvGas, then the high comp
> pistons will have to be changed...
So you're saying you can't use car gas when you go over 9 to 1 pistons?
What if you use an octane additive available at the auto parts stores. 104
comes to mind. Very expensive but seems to work quite well. How about a
comment from one of the petroleum experts.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive until answered
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
In my Home Despot and Lowe's, these plugs were in the trays marked
"specialty fasteners" in the hardware section.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless/Chrome Landing gear plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Steve, check in the aviation (plumbing) department of your local Home
> Depot or Lowes; you are looking "hole plugs", should be an assortment of
> sizes in a blister pack.
>
> You may need to tweak the spring tangs on the plugs to accommodate the
> thickness of the fiberglass.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> =========================
>
> Steve J Hurlbut wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
> >
> > Can someone give me a part number for Aircraft Spruce (or page number)
for
> > some chrome plugs (or
> > stainless, or whatever) that would go in the side of the fiberglass
wheel
> > pants for access to the main bolts?
> >
> > I already have the spring loaded 1" camloc doors for the tire pressure.
> >
> > Steve
> > RV7A
> >
>
>
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Bill Irvine wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
>>A horizontally-opposed, direct-drive, water-cooled,
>>6-cylinder engine. 375 CID, 200 HP (maybe a bit
>>more), fuel-injected....
>
> Thanks for all the thoughts and feedback. So, do I
> understand correctly, weight and cost are the single
> most important aspects of a new engine? You wouldn't
> buy an engine that was more reliable, more durable and
> cheaper to overhaul if is was heavier and cost more?
No. I would buy the engine that can give me the lowest total cost of
ownership, and meet my performance requirements. My performance
requirements include weight equal to or less than (but not much less
than) an I/O-360, so if it's 100# more, it's off my list. Total cost of
ownership will include expected cost of overhauls, so it overhauls are
dirt cheap then a higher up-front cost of the engine may be acceptable.
But I have a hard time seeing how a brand-new-to-market engine, with
custom compoents, will be cheap to overhaul or maintain. The parts
availability may not be there.
> The problem I have is I don't have time to build a new
> engine AND a new RV-7/8/10. So, does anyone want to
> volunteer their plane to be the test plane, in
> exchange for a free engine? Any takers? C'mon guys,
> you all bitch and moan about how unreliable and
> ancient Lycomings are; here's your chance to use a
> modern, reliable engine. Who's gonna step up to the
> plate and swing?
If you can make an engine that'll produce 180HP, weigh no more than an
I/O-360, be safe for Acro, and convince me that your engineering will
make the total cost of ownership lower than a Lycoming, then you're on.
I'll have an RV-7 ready in oh, let's say about 5 years just to be safe,
which may be how long it'll take you to build an engine that will do all
that... 8-)
-RB4
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: S-curved Stick for -8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
We tried and couldn't get the curves without collapsing the tube. I
purchased two more stick blanks and some day will try it again but this time
with cuts and welds. The geometry is very tricky because if the handle is to
be raised enough to be comfortable then it must be back quite a ways in
order to move all the way forward without hitting the panel. That will put
it right up against your belly and I'm afraid guys with larger mid-sections
might not be able to make it work. Anway, we plan to experiment with it
further hopefully. The standard position does indeed put the stick too low
and far forward for proper ergonomics, but you do get used to it. I have
nearly 300 hours in in now and have stopped complaining about it... besides,
no one would listen. ;-)
There's been quite a bit of discussion on this which should be in the
archives.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 285 hrs
www.rv-8.com
Home Wing VAF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: S-curved Stick for -8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
>
> Have any -8 builders reformed their front stick a la Llyle Hefel's design?
> If so, please share dimensions and bending method. Particularly, can the
> stick material be successfully bent cold using some electrical conduit
> bender (or press with shaped blocks), or is (red) heat required for the
> correct method and a better product?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack Blomgren
> Minnesota Wing
>
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
I just bought a cheap 1000w halogen light; keeps my garage warm and I
can see what I'm doing now...
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - on hold for the holidays
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ross
Schlotthauer
Subject: RV-List: Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater
--> RV-List message posted by: Ross Schlotthauer
<rdschlotthauer@yahoo.com>
RVers,
I broke down and spent the best $300 of the project a
couple weeks ago. I have a small unheated hanger that
is attached to the side of my house, sits in a
residential neighborhood, and is commonly referered to
as a "two car garage" by non RV types. I found that
as winter set in here in north Idaho I began to spend
less and less time in the hanger due to quite
uncomfortable temperatures. I really wanted to have
some heat out there but figured it was no use without
insulation. I have essential building equipment on
all walls and in every corner of the hanger and
couldn't stomach the thought of giving up precious
building time insulating. I also have a two car
uninsulated metal rollup door that I figured would be
a hassle to try and insulate.
It was suggested to me by one of my fellow energy
concious Idahoans that I just buy a big heater and
forget about insulation. That mentality appealed to
me greatly so I went down to Lowes home improvement
and bought a 30,000 btu/hour vent free natural gas
heater with a thermostatically controlled blower and
all the plumbing fixins. I set it in the corner by my
gas water heater and furnace and fired it up. In
about 30 minutes it brings my hanger temp from 40
degrees F to 65 degrees F and I have to either turn it
down or work in shorts.
I calculate that I am burning $0.24 per hour worth of
gas when I am running full power on the heater. For
that price I can afford to throw a little heat
outside. I highly recommend the $300 investment to
anyone.
Ross Schlotthauer
RV7 Fuse (in comfort)
=
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Best $300 I ever spent / garage heater |
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
In a message dated 12/18/2002 9:00:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
webmaster@flion.com writes:
> just bought a cheap 1000w halogen light; keeps my garage warm and I
> can see what I'm doing now
Sure.....But look at all the money you have to spend on tanning lotion!
Hal Benjamin
RV4, Fuselage
Long Island, NY Do Not Archive
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Kim,
TSO C91a states the following:
"ELT remote controls should be located in view of and accessible
from the pilots normal seated position."
Also,
"A visual monitor should be in the pilots forward field of view
and be visible under normal daylight ambient light conditions."
Also of interest.
"ELT remote controls should enable selection of at least the
following functions:
MANUAL ON Transmitter manually selected ON.
ARMED Transmitter enabled such that activation will
occur in response to a correct crash sensor input. ELT
must be in this position during flight.
RESET Operating Transmitter deactivated and
returned to the ARMED condition.
Note: The OFF function should not be available at the remote
control.
An aural or visual monitor should be provided to alert the pilot
when the ELT has been activated and is transmitting.
An aural monitor should provide a distinct signal which is
plainly audible from within and outside the aircraft with the
engines not running.
To facilitate locating ELT following a crash, a placard identifying
the location of the ELT in the aircraft, for example ELT INSIDE
should be installed in the immediate vicinity of the ELT on the
external surface of the aircraft. Lettering at least 25mm high in a
colour contrasting with the aircraft paintwork would be suitable
identification."
So, it sounds to me like the remote should be on the instrument panel. And
actually, most panels have some otherwise wasted real estate that will suffice
-
the remote for the AK-450 is really quite small.
Dave RV6, So Cal
Knicholas2@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with lights
> and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
> instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
> crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post between the
> seats. So whattdaya think?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - finishing......
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
It's required by TSO C91a
Dave
do not archive
Noel & Yoshie Simmons wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
> Try this on for size. Its is creative so the FAA may not like it but here
> it goes.
> How about eliminating it and adding a placard saying to check 121.5 before
> shut down.
>
> Noel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Knicholas2@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Placement of ELT remote
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with lights
> and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
> instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
> crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post between
> the
> seats. So whattdaya think?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - finishing......
>
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
On 12/18 Bob offered:
> So what's the answer? If what I'm hearing is true, then a parallel valve,
fuel injected 360 with a forward facing induction system and high
compression pistons is the way to go.
>
> I can't see why I'd want to pay 10k more for an engine that weighs 40 lbs
more and puts out THE SAME POWER.
>
> I welcome real world experience on this question...I need to order an
engine.
While the engine itself may be fine in this configuration we still have the
un-answered question of what impact (pun intended) the engine would have on
a Hartzell CS prop. Remember, Hartzell says all bets are off with even
minor modification to an untested modified engine prop combination.
Dick Sipp
N250DS RV-4
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As Tedd McHenry was saying:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
> > Air-cooled boats except
> > for airboats are kinda rare and I think that water cooled aerial vessels are
> > -- well--like a fish out of water.
>
> I think it bears noting, given this analogy, that a "liquid-cooled" engine is
> air cooled. It just uses a liquid heat transfer medium. As do all Lycomings
> (i.e. oil).
Generally not in a boat. :>
-Kysh
do not archive
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
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| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
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| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
-- Albert Einstein
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross A. Scroggs" <rscroggs@attbi.com>
Kim,
I have the same ELT in my J3 Cub. If memory serves me, the manual says
the remote module
has to be visible to the pilot. If I was to install it on my instrument
panel (J3 ???) I wouldn't be able
to reach it, so I installed it under the rear seat where I sit. The manual
doesn't say that the pilot has
to be able to see it while sitting, just to be able to see it. So every
time I get out of the plane, I just
look under the seat and make sure it hasn't been triggered. I can really
see it if I just lean forward
a little.
Just use common sense when installing it and you won't have any trouble.
Ross Scroggs, A&P
RV-4 #3911
Conyers, Ga.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Placement of ELT remote
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel with
lights
> and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
> instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
> crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post between
the
> seats. So whattdaya think?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - finishing......
>
>
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
There is a nice RV-6 and RV-6A for FS2K2 at flightsim.com. There, now
it's RV related. And a subjective and unsubstantiated opinion stated as
fact to follow, so it's RV-List related. ;)
The best non-forcefeedback stick I have used (and I have owned several)
is the Gravis Blackhawk Digital. One of the cheaper ones at about $30,
best feel, built in throttle and trim (coolie) hat, several buttons
which can be programmed for any function, and way more reliable than
anything else I have owned. Highly recommended. And she (and you) will
love FS2K2, especially if you ever used the older versions.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finish kit and FS junkie
Milwaukee WI
>
>
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