Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:02 AM - Re: Alternate engine (James E. Clark)
2. 01:02 AM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (James E. Clark)
3. 01:50 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (JRWillJR@aol.com)
4. 02:32 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Jim Jewell)
5. 04:48 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Dave)
6. 06:22 AM - Re: S-curved Stick for -8 (RVer273sb@aol.com)
7. 06:53 AM - Re: chip detector (John Huft)
8. 07:01 AM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (Lenleg@aol.com)
9. 07:03 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (John Huft)
10. 07:34 AM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (John Starn)
11. 07:35 AM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (Brian Denk)
12. 07:37 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (John Starn)
13. 07:39 AM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (Jim Norman)
14. 07:53 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Rob Prior)
15. 08:09 AM - Re: Blowj...er, a job you do by blowing... (Ken - Design Department)
16. 08:34 AM - stick curves (Frazier, Vincent A)
17. 09:10 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Dave)
18. 09:16 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (kempthornes)
19. 09:42 AM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (Pat Hatch)
20. 09:50 AM - Alternate engine (Bill Irvine)
21. 09:58 AM - Re: Wheel pant access holes for air (BELTEDAIR@aol.com)
22. 10:06 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Tedd McHenry)
23. 10:20 AM - Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) (David Carter)
24. 10:36 AM - Alternate engines - motorcycle? (Wiethe, Philip (P.J.))
25. 10:48 AM - RV-8A curved stick (Jim Truitt)
26. 10:57 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (JRWillJR@aol.com)
27. 11:02 AM - Re: parallel valves--choices (JRWillJR@aol.com)
28. 11:30 AM - Re: Alternate engine (Charlie and Tupper England)
29. 12:00 PM - Projects for sale? (Charlie and Tupper England)
30. 12:10 PM - RV-8A curved stick (Jim Truitt)
31. 12:33 PM - Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine (kempthornes)
32. 12:35 PM - Re: RV-8A curved stick (Chris)
33. 01:31 PM - Flight Simulator Control (bruno)
34. 01:43 PM - Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
35. 01:43 PM - Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
36. 01:45 PM - Re: canopy frame (Bert Forero)
37. 02:26 PM - Re: Plexi Drill Bits (Wayne R. Couture)
38. 03:01 PM - Re: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals (Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc)
39. 03:18 PM - Re: canopy frame (Jim Jewell)
40. 03:18 PM - Re: best $300 (Joel Haynes)
41. 03:52 PM - Re: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals (Kyle Boatright)
42. 03:55 PM - Re: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals (Stein Bruch)
43. 04:28 PM - Re: Alternate engine (Kysh)
44. 05:15 PM - Re: Plexi Drill Bits (Chuck Weyant)
45. 05:46 PM - Re: Placement of ELT remote (Gary)
46. 06:11 PM - Re: Flight Simulator Control (Paul Besing)
47. 06:32 PM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Dave Bristol)
48. 06:34 PM - Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine (Kevin Horton)
49. 08:25 PM - Re: chip detector (Tracy Crook)
50. 09:06 PM - Re: chip detector (James E. Clark)
51. 09:40 PM - Re: chip detector (Meketa)
52. 09:48 PM - Re: parallel valves--choices (Norman)
53. 10:04 PM - Re: Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related) (Eric Borduas)
54. 11:06 PM - Re: Flight Simulator Control (Rob Prior)
55. 11:06 PM - Re: Seat Belt Data (Meketa)
56. 11:51 PM - Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine Questions (JRWillJR@aol.com)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
Tracy + List,
Doesn't one of the "remote oil filter" companies offer a chip detector for
their unit?
Don't know how good or cost effective it is but I do remember talking to
them a few years ago about it. Their point was similar about the engine.
IIRC, it was the one with the "stronger/beefier" of the remote mounts.
James
<<<SNIP>>>
>
> Been there, done that! :-)
>
> And the Mazda 13B rotary installation weighs the same as a Lyc O - 320.
> I agree with those who think the 100 pound increase is a non-starter, even
> if it has the advantage of direct drive.
>
> I also agree with whoever said that it is the added accessories
> that are the
> major reliability concern on an alternative engine. I believe that the
> rotary is equal or better than the Lycoming in reliability, it is the
> reduction drive that I think about when I'm flying my plane. Which brings
> me to the real point of this post.
>
> Every known failure mode of my reduction drive will manifest itself by the
> presence of metal chips (steel) in the oil return line from the
> drive. This
> happens long before a possible catestrophic failure. If I had a good chip
> detector, it would increase my confidence level during flight at
> least 500%.
> I found one source of chip detectors (used in helicopter
> transmissions) but
> the price was way beyond reasonable. Anyone out there aware of any at
> reasonable prices? If not, I'll have to add this to my list of things to
> design.
>
> Tracy Crook
> 13B powered RV-4 , 1300+ hrs.
> 20B powered RV-8, Getting ready for final cut on canopy.
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
On my "certified" plane it is NOT on the panel. It is to my left (forward
and above the arm rest).
I am not sure but I *think* the issue is one of being in clear view of and
operable by the pilot.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Knicholas2@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2002 4:24 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Placement of ELT remote
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> I am installing my Ameri-King ELT which has a small remote panel
> with lights
> and switch. Is there any "rule" that says that this HAS to be on the
> instrument panel? Can it be mounted soemwhere else? My panel is pretty
> crowded so I am thinking of putting it in the center support post
> between the
> seats. So whattdaya think?
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - finishing......
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
I just bought an engine.
High compression pistons--sounds great until 100LL is not easily available
and then of course there is the Hartzel/Sensenich admonition not to use their
props in such a case. I went with standard pistons, 8.5 to 1.
Parallel valve---yes, they are approx. 40 lbs lighter than the angle valve
engine so when you factor in the weight you don't really have a 20 horsepower
advantage. Several things affect that weight including the crank, different
case and cylinders etc, y'all notice the angle valve engine is physically
larger than a parallel valve engine.
Induction---- front induction, cool air type, is beneficial at a higher cost,
the Superior bottom induction is already much improved over the Lycoming
version so it may not be worth the extra money to most folks.
Electronic ignition--I wanted it until I found out that Hartzell was seeing
some very real differences in vibration analysis using these ignitions. I
think the greater danger is the unknown compatibility with Sensenich. So,
depending on your prop choice electronic ignition still has advantages in
starting, smoothness, power, fuel consumption and compatibility with auto
fuel (adjustable in flight etc on some versions). I chose to go with mags, I
can always add electronic later.
Aerobatic--you need that if you want sustained inverted capability.
Hollow crank---you might want to use a constant speed someday.
Flow porting----may help smoothness and add power at altitude.
Balancing---sounds good.
Blueprinting---nothing wrong there.
Exhaust systems---maybe some free power there.
Fuel Injection--smoothness, efficiency, power are all impacted at least
somewhat for the better
My question, how will a 190 horsepower parallel valve engine with a Hartzell
perform compared to the angle valve 200 horse. I also think, without dyno
info to support that a front induction would add about another 5 horses over
the already improved Superior bottom induction. That is just a guess based on
a few things I am not going into. So then it would be 195 horses but then I
think we are pushing the Senenich prop into unknown territory though I
suspect the Hartzell would be OK. I don't think engine smoothness would be
affected by pulling 10 or so additional horses above the base 180 and neither
would TBO.
The front induction thing, assuming fuel injection, I went round and round,
is a cool air induction that pulls cool air through a warm cowl better than
an improved bottom induction that pulls cool air into a warm sump? Is ram air
better in one than the other? Which one has the fewest sharp turns? I am not
sure there is an absolute clear winner here, there could be a few extra
horses for front induction but at what cost plus other factors. Looks, well,
I like the bottom induction cowl arrangement better but that is obviously an
opinion. Each to their own in that regard. Good luck. Do Not Archive.
JR, A&P
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Congratulations JR One more big step taken.
Jim in Kelowna
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <JRWillJR@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: parallel valves--choices
> --> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
>
> I just bought an engine.
>
> High compression pistons--sounds great until 100LL is not easily available
> and then of course there is the Hartzel/Sensenich admonition not to use
their
> props in such a case. I went with standard pistons, 8.5 to 1.
>
> Parallel valve---yes, they are approx. 40 lbs lighter than the angle valve
> engine so when you factor in the weight you don't really have a 20
horsepower
> advantage. Several things affect that weight including the crank,
different
> case and cylinders etc, y'all notice the angle valve engine is physically
> larger than a parallel valve engine.
>
> Induction---- front induction, cool air type, is beneficial at a higher
cost,
> the Superior bottom induction is already much improved over the Lycoming
> version so it may not be worth the extra money to most folks.
>
> Electronic ignition--I wanted it until I found out that Hartzell was
seeing
> some very real differences in vibration analysis using these ignitions. I
> think the greater danger is the unknown compatibility with Sensenich. So,
> depending on your prop choice electronic ignition still has advantages in
> starting, smoothness, power, fuel consumption and compatibility with auto
> fuel (adjustable in flight etc on some versions). I chose to go with mags,
I
> can always add electronic later.
>
> Aerobatic--you need that if you want sustained inverted capability.
> Hollow crank---you might want to use a constant speed someday.
> Flow porting----may help smoothness and add power at altitude.
> Balancing---sounds good.
> Blueprinting---nothing wrong there.
> Exhaust systems---maybe some free power there.
> Fuel Injection--smoothness, efficiency, power are all impacted at least
> somewhat for the better
>
> My question, how will a 190 horsepower parallel valve engine with a
Hartzell
> perform compared to the angle valve 200 horse. I also think, without dyno
> info to support that a front induction would add about another 5 horses
over
> the already improved Superior bottom induction. That is just a guess based
on
> a few things I am not going into. So then it would be 195 horses but then
I
> think we are pushing the Senenich prop into unknown territory though I
> suspect the Hartzell would be OK. I don't think engine smoothness would be
> affected by pulling 10 or so additional horses above the base 180 and
neither
> would TBO.
> The front induction thing, assuming fuel injection, I went round and
round,
> is a cool air induction that pulls cool air through a warm cowl better
than
> an improved bottom induction that pulls cool air into a warm sump? Is ram
air
> better in one than the other? Which one has the fewest sharp turns? I am
not
> sure there is an absolute clear winner here, there could be a few extra
> horses for front induction but at what cost plus other factors. Looks,
well,
> I like the bottom induction cowl arrangement better but that is obviously
an
> opinion. Each to their own in that regard. Good luck. Do Not Archive.
> JR, A&P
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <davevon@tir.com>
Is there a reason you didn't mention going with one of the composite C/S
props? They don't seem to have the same vibration issues that Hartzell has.
They're also lighter and claim higher speeds.
Dave
RV-6
The need for speed
> Electronic ignition--I wanted it until I found out that Hartzell was
seeing
> some very real differences in vibration analysis using these ignitions. I
> think the greater danger is the unknown compatibility with Sensenich. So,
> depending on your prop choice electronic ignition still has advantages in
> starting, smoothness, power, fuel consumption and compatibility with auto
> fuel (adjustable in flight etc on some versions). I chose to go with mags,
I
> can always add electronic later.
> My question, how will a 190 horsepower parallel valve engine with a
Hartzell
> perform compared to the angle valve 200 horse. I also think, without dyno
> info to support that a front induction would add about another 5 horses
over
> the already improved Superior bottom induction. That is just a guess based
on
> a few things I am not going into. So then it would be 195 horses but then
I
> think we are pushing the Senenich prop into unknown territory though I
> suspect the Hartzell would be OK. I don't think engine smoothness would be
> affected by pulling 10 or so additional horses above the base 180 and
neither
> would TBO.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: S-curved Stick for -8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
Have you tried filling the tube with sand?
A conduit bender will then do it without
too much distortion. Thats the way I did
one for my RV-4.
Stewart RV-4
do not archive
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
This would be the ADC remote filter system
http://www.globalav.com.au/adc-recip.html
I haven't tried one, but the skywagon guys are very fond of them.
John RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate engine
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
Tracy + List,
Doesn't one of the "remote oil filter" companies offer a chip detector for
their unit?
Don't know how good or cost effective it is but I do remember talking to
them a few years ago about it. Their point was similar about the engine.
IIRC, it was the one with the "stronger/beefier" of the remote mounts.
James
<<<SNIP>>>
>
> Been there, done that! :-)
>
> And the Mazda 13B rotary installation weighs the same as a Lyc O - 320.
> I agree with those who think the 100 pound increase is a non-starter, even
> if it has the advantage of direct drive.
>
> I also agree with whoever said that it is the added accessories
> that are the
> major reliability concern on an alternative engine. I believe that the
> rotary is equal or better than the Lycoming in reliability, it is the
> reduction drive that I think about when I'm flying my plane. Which brings
> me to the real point of this post.
>
> Every known failure mode of my reduction drive will manifest itself by the
> presence of metal chips (steel) in the oil return line from the
> drive. This
> happens long before a possible catestrophic failure. If I had a good chip
> detector, it would increase my confidence level during flight at
> least 500%.
> I found one source of chip detectors (used in helicopter
> transmissions) but
> the price was way beyond reasonable. Anyone out there aware of any at
> reasonable prices? If not, I'll have to add this to my list of things to
> design.
>
> Tracy Crook
> 13B powered RV-4 , 1300+ hrs.
> 20B powered RV-8, Getting ready for final cut on canopy.
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Has anyone used the extension air stems sold by or Cleveland for use with the
wheelpants? Are they suppose to be put on permanently or just screwed in
when you are adding air?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
24 hours !!
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
I went with a parallel valve 360, built up by Lycon.
You can read about the details at www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
The engine turned 223 HP on the dyno at 2700 rpm. 10:1 pistons, port and
polish, Bendix fuel injection, 4 into 1 exhaust. I have only flown 28 hours
so can't speak to longevity. With the 3-blade MT prop, it is the smoothest
4-banger I have flown.
Ken Tunnel, owner of Lycon, told me that my engine is 2/3 of what Sean
Tucker flies, a souped up parallel valve 540. Lycon has a lot of experience
with these engines in Reno racers and aerobatic show performers.
The thing I didn't realize, though, is that port and polish doesn't help at
cruise rpm. Looking at the full dyno print-out, my engine only produces 5 HP
more than a stock motor at 2400 rpm, and then the curve gets steeper from
there. So, if you want cruise speed, go for the angle valve engine. For all
out performance though, and especially climb performance, it is good to
loose the 40 lbs. (yes, it really is 40), and still have the ponies.
Of course, Lycon will still get you 245 out of the angle valve engine.
Pay up!
John Huft, RV8, Pagosa springs, CO 28 hours, waiting out the snow storm.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave
Subject: Re: RV-List: parallel valves--choices
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <davevon@tir.com>
Is there a reason you didn't mention going with one of the composite C/S
props? They don't seem to have the same vibration issues that Hartzell has.
They're also lighter and claim higher speeds.
Dave
RV-6
The need for speed
> Electronic ignition--I wanted it until I found out that Hartzell was
seeing
> some very real differences in vibration analysis using these ignitions. I
> think the greater danger is the unknown compatibility with Sensenich. So,
> depending on your prop choice electronic ignition still has advantages in
> starting, smoothness, power, fuel consumption and compatibility with auto
> fuel (adjustable in flight etc on some versions). I chose to go with mags,
I
> can always add electronic later.
> My question, how will a 190 horsepower parallel valve engine with a
Hartzell
> perform compared to the angle valve 200 horse. I also think, without dyno
> info to support that a front induction would add about another 5 horses
over
> the already improved Superior bottom induction. That is just a guess based
on
> a few things I am not going into. So then it would be 195 horses but then
I
> think we are pushing the Senenich prop into unknown territory though I
> suspect the Hartzell would be OK. I don't think engine smoothness would be
> affected by pulling 10 or so additional horses above the base 180 and
neither
> would TBO.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
We used the NAPA truck tire extention, about 4" long, to go thru the hole,
the end is now outside the pant (makes it much easier to use) and would tear
up same if left attached. We use it only when filling/checking air pressure.
We use a 5/16" nut driver to remove valve stem cover, attach extention and
to re-install the cover. Nut driver of now part of our onboard tool pouch,
it goes with the airplane. Do Not Archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant access holes for air
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> Has anyone used the extension air stems sold by or Cleveland for use with
the
> wheelpants? Are they suppose to be put on permanently or just screwed in
> when you are adding air?
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 24 hours !!
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>Has anyone used the extension air stems sold by or Cleveland for use with
>the
>wheelpants? Are they suppose to be put on permanently or just screwed in
>when you are adding air?
>
>Len Leggette RV-8A
>N901LL
>Greensboro, N.C.
>24 hours !!
Len,
Even if they could stay on without hitting the wheelpants, you do not want
to add the additional (albeit small) amount of weight to a reasonably
balanced spinning mass. That tube stem is aligned with the red spot on the
tire for a reason.
Enjoying your airplane? Yeah I know, silly question. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Light, lots of HP, money no object if it gains more HP/speed. Can you spell
"turbine". 8
) Do not archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: parallel valves--choices
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
The latter.
When you need air, screw it on and inflate. Can't see how to do this any
other way without taking the wheel pant off.
You MUST have one of these.
jim
Tampa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lenleg@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant access holes for air
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Has anyone used the extension air stems sold by or Cleveland for use with
the
wheelpants? Are they suppose to be put on permanently or just screwed in
when you are adding air?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
24 hours !!
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Congratulations, JR, you're now a step ahead of the "which engine is
best" thread... 8-)
Can you (or anyone else, perhaps) answer a question for me, though:
JRWillJR@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
>
> Aerobatic--you need that if you want sustained inverted capability.
I was under the impression that there's two things (engine-wise) that
you need for sustained inverted flight: Inverted Fuel System, and
Inverted Oil System.
Since these are low-wing aircraft, fuel should gravity feed quite well
when inverted, if you have a flop tube in one tank. As for oil, there
are a few systems on the market for retrofitting Lycoming engines.
Neither of these would seem (to me) to require the "A" model engines,
since they can both be taken care of independently of the engine. Is
there something else the "A" model gets you that wouldn't be there
otherwise?
-RB4
RV7 Empennage
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Blowj...er, a job you do by blowing... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken - Design Department" <ken@soundsuckers.com>
I Haven't been following this thread that much but when I did my tanks I
just cut a piece of 3/4 " plastic pipe to go in between the ribs and put a
nut on each end of the tank to squeeze it all together,
I used a pipe cuter to get square edges so ribs would stay straight.
2 minute job to assemble and disassemble
Ken
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gannon, Terence"
<Terence.Gannon@trican.ca>
>
> Listers -- I thought I would pass along a little tip that I 'discovered'
> last night. I don't know if the newer kits still require this, but when
> you're setting up the leading edge ribs so that you can drill the
> leading edge skin to them, you can use a threaded rod through the
> forward-most tooling hole,
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP We tried and couldn't get the curves without collapsing the tube. I
purchased two more stick blanks and some day will try it again but this time
with cuts and welds. The geometry is very tricky because if the handle is to
be raised enough to be comfortable then it must be back quite a ways in
order to move all the way forward without hitting the panel. That will put
it right up against your belly and I'm afraid guys with larger mid-sections
might not be able to make it work. Anway, we plan to experiment with it
further hopefully. The standard position does indeed put the stick too low
and far forward for proper ergonomics, but you do get used to it. I have
nearly 300 hours in in now and have stopped complaining about it... besides,
no one would listen. ;-)
There's been quite a bit of discussion on this which should be in the
archives.
Randy Lervold RV-8, 285 hrs SNIP
My buddy, who wants to remain nameless, cut and welded the stick to curve back
and lengthened it slightly. Then cut a 1"+ tall crescent, with about a 19" radius
as measured from the stick base, out of the bottom of the instrument panel.
Reinforced of course. It's awesome. Van should incorporate the change immediately
as the stock RV-8 stick is much to low and too far forward, IMHO.
I suppose that it wouldn't work for pot bellied, panel stuffing IFRers. But the
stock stick certainly isn't comfortable for potbellied pilots either.
Vince
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <davevon@tir.com>
Depending on how much and what kind of acro you're going to do, you may want
to consider an aerobatic prop and governor. The reason being, our standard
prop and governors are setup to go to fine pitch at low pressure and the
aerobatic setup will go to high pitch to prevent an over speed during low
oil pressure events. Knife edge is usually bad for this.
The inverted fuel system must also include some type of fuel injection or
throttle body. A carburetor with a float won't properly deliver fuel to the
engine while inverted.
Dave
RV-6, former Pitts driver
The need for speed...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: parallel valves--choices
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> Congratulations, JR, you're now a step ahead of the "which engine is
> best" thread... 8-)
>
> Can you (or anyone else, perhaps) answer a question for me, though:
>
> JRWillJR@aol.com wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
> >
> > Aerobatic--you need that if you want sustained inverted capability.
>
> I was under the impression that there's two things (engine-wise) that
> you need for sustained inverted flight: Inverted Fuel System, and
> Inverted Oil System.
>
> Since these are low-wing aircraft, fuel should gravity feed quite well
> when inverted, if you have a flop tube in one tank. As for oil, there
> are a few systems on the market for retrofitting Lycoming engines.
>
> Neither of these would seem (to me) to require the "A" model engines,
> since they can both be taken care of independently of the engine. Is
> there something else the "A" model gets you that wouldn't be there
> otherwise?
>
> -RB4
> RV7 Empennage
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 07:34 AM 12/19/2002 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>
>Light, lots of HP, money no object if it gains more HP/speed. Can you spell
>"turbine".
> Do not archive
I thought it was in the latest issue of Sport Aviation --- there is a
company flying a turboprop powered RV3 or RV4. They hope to be on the
market next year!
There's also a page on the Jodel, 6000 flying with liquid cooled
diesels! PooJo yet! Says they last 11,000 hours!
If money was no object, I'd not be on this list!!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Len,
Or you could get a real long inflator (I think they are for trucks, I bought
mine in an auto parts store). A little easier I think than screwing in the
extenders.
Pat Hatch
RV-4, N17PH, 700 hrs
O-320, Hartzell C/S
RV-6, N44PH, 40 hrs
O-360, Hartzell C/S
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant access holes for air
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> Has anyone used the extension air stems sold by or Cleveland for use with
the
> wheelpants? Are they suppose to be put on permanently or just screwed in
> when you are adding air?
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 24 hours !!
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
> I've seen new engines for sale at OSH, and when I
> asked, "Where's your test plane? How many hours do
> you have on your engine?" I got blank stares or a
> mumbled "Ah, we're working on that...."
It just occurred to me that when I said this, someone
might have gotten the idea that I was implying that
Tracy Crook was one of these people. If ANYONE got
this idea, I want to apologize to Tracy.
I think what Tracy is doing is brilliant, and as far
as I know, he is the only guy that can point to his
plane and say, "Wanna go for a ride?" I like an
engineer that "puts his money where his mouth is."
The only reason I didn't consider a rotary engine is
because it doesn't fit into my long-range plans. But
if I were building an RV, I would seriously consider
one of Tracy's engines.
Ok, with that out of the way, let me again say thanks
for all the comments and opinions, both on- and
off-list. Wow, I had no idea you guys were so serious
about saving weight! I should have gotten a clue when
I read the thread on weighing seat belts. When I
first saw that, my first thought was,
"who-the-hell-cares what a seat belt weighs?" But now
I see that you guys are dead-on obsessed with saving
weight, and that adding another 100 pounds to your
airplane would not be attractive. In my defense,
understand that I fly a Cessna 310, and with full fuel
(100 gal) I can still put 1000 lbs in the cabin. So
you can see why I originally thought that adding 100
lbs wouldn't be a big deal. Thanks for the education.
Some people were disappointed that my engine wouldn't
be any cheaper than a Lycoming. Well, all I can say
is: you get what you pay for. You can buy oats before
they've gone thru the horse, or you can save money and
buy oats after they've gone thru the horse. :-)
Bill
working on the SIOL-500
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant access holes for air |
--> RV-List message posted by: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
Go to ACS and order P/N A6914-1024-1 Inspection plate drill the hole mark the
wheel with a small yellow or your favorite color, use an extended air chuck
and get the job done.
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> Since these are low-wing aircraft, fuel should gravity feed quite well
> when inverted, if you have a flop tube in one tank.
Rob:
I wouldn't count on that. When you take into account angle of incidence and
the higher AOA required to run an asymmetrical wing upside down I think you'll
find there's not much height difference between the tanks and the carb on an
RV. The carb might even be higher.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Gillian,
I read the info below on the RV-list. I'm building an RV-6. I am going to
have an AOA on it. I flew fighters with AOA in USAF and really like AOA -
the ones I flew did NOT have aural. The F-4 DID have aural - was a steady
tone at "best maneuvering AOA" for dogfighting and changed (increased in
pitch?) as you approached stall AOA. You should really include some type of
aural tone - head OUT of the cockpit is the best way to fly, not having to
look in at the gage (or EFIS).
As for human factors and how/what to implement, you'll have to have the
patience of Job and the widsom of Solomon to get it right for the varied
viewpoints of your customers. If 2 or 3 different "implementations" seem to
be dominant, you'd be far ahead on time and money to give the user the
option of which of the 2 or 3 he buys - or, better yet, make it user
selectable, so user can try each and then stick with the one he likes.
Believe me, there will be no "right answer", i.e., no single tone or system
that will please anywhere near all the pilots.
For myself, I'd probably like a some type of aural indication at AOA
corresponding to level flt descent at final approach speed of 1.3 X Vstall.
If the aircraft has flaps, you'll need to have a flap switch in the circuit
to make the tone come on at 1.3 X clean stall or 1.3 X full flaps stall
speed.
I'm not sure how the tone should change when AOA increases from "final
approach AOA" towards "stall AOA".
- Perhaps the tone could be 2 beeps per second at some medium audio
frequency (pitch) at "final approach" AOA and simply increase linearly in
both 'number of beeps per second' and audio frequency of tone (pitch) until
it was a solid tone of some irritatingly higher pitch at stall.
Some might want a "kill switch" to kill the tone if it bothered them or if
they simply didn't want it any more.
- A lot of guys are putting button switches on stick and throttle for
various things - this might be a candidate, otherwise, the switch could be
my the display.
That's the first time in my life I've ever thought my way through this
topic. It would be interesting to see what others might suggest. Nothing
wrong with soliciting suggestions from your users, posting them to a web
document on your site for people to read and comment on via e-mails, which
you could save in a folder on your hard drive for future sorting out/use.
David Carter
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate engines - motorcycle? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wiethe, Philip (P.J.)" <pwiethe@ford.com>
I think an interesting path might be an 'aircraft-ised', increased
displacement version of Honda's 1800cc liquid cooled, injected, flat 6 that
is in their Goldwing motorcycle. This engine is very light weight and
compact, but only puts out 118hp, so it would need more displacement.
Phil
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-8A curved stick |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
I too, was inspired by the ergonomics of Lyle Hefel's interior.
I had a friend custom "build" a front stick grip for my 8A - haven't flown
yet. By "build" I mean he cut and welded the stick in two places. I doubt
you can bend the stick to useable dimensions without collapsing the tube
(we didn't try).
My friend (and most knowledgable builder assistant) used a unique and
inexpensive process to obtain the exact geometry for my stick. I'm using
an Infinity stick grip and I wanted the ergonomics to be just right with the
cant and tilt of the grip, as well as the curvature of the stick. He had a
piece of PVC plastic plumbing pipe , same diameter as the front stick.
We heated it with a torch and slowly bent it in a vise when it became
soft. We did this until we had the right curves. Once you remove the
heat, the PVC hardens again within a few seconds. Just be careful not
to burn through the plastic.
To obtain the right stick height, he drilled multiple holes in the bottom of
the PVC, spaced about 1/2 to 3/4 inches apart. Each time we changed
the curvature by heating, I sat in the plane and tried it out. The process
was fast and easy with two people. When the right dimensions were
obtained, he used the PVC as the template to cut and reweld the metal
stick.
In addition, we have cut a semi-circular section out of the lower center
instrument panel for stick clearance. I did this because another friend
recently completed his RV-8A and I found his stick to be too short for my
comfort. The height of the stick was dictated by the height of the panel.
Even with the S curve in the stick, it would still hit the panel. So we used
the PVC stick template to draw a line matching the curvature of the stick
when swung from side to side, then cut the panel taking a little extra for
clearance. It may sound ugly, but it looks pretty good with the layout of
the instruments and avionics. I like it and several other people who have
sat in the plane like it.
Flying it will be the true test, of course.
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
Well, I said choices because everyone will have different thoughts leading to
differing choices, those were just mine.
Inverted fuel and oil, yes, that is why I got fuel injection and specified
that the engine be modified for inverted use. As an A&P I have pulled jugs
and even been in the engines numerous for various repairs but modifying them
for inverted use is not something I had ever done so I got a pro to do that
for me, Aerosport Power. The mods are not a big deal and involve preventing
trapped oil in the rear of the engine case. A flop tube, fuel injection and
the ancillary support equipment, Christian or other, will be needed for
sustained inverted flight.
Turbines, I saw the turbine RV4, I worked some on the turbine Luscombe and
have seen it run. Both are impressive. Fuel burn and non auto controls (to
prevent over temping) are a problem, electric props are another. The cost for
the tubine in the RV4 was just a bit high for me and does not offer the
flexibility of the Lyc at this stage of development. Do not archive. JR
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
In a message dated 12/19/2002 6:52:18 AM Central Standard Time,
davevon@tir.com writes:
> Is there a reason you didn't mention going with one of the composite C/S
> props? They don't seem to have the same vibration issues that Hartzell
> has.
> They're also lighter and claim higher speeds.
Yes, MONEY, they cost more, are unproven, are built by companies that may or
may not be around 15 years from now. To be truthfull, I have not purchased a
prop and may well use one of them when the time comes. They look promising
and they will work just fine with the engine I had built. Do Not Archive. JR
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Kysh wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
>
> As Tedd McHenry was saying:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>>
>>>Air-cooled boats except
>>>for airboats are kinda rare and I think that water cooled aerial vessels are
>>>-- well--like a fish out of water.
>>
>>I think it bears noting, given this analogy, that a "liquid-cooled" engine is
>>air cooled. It just uses a liquid heat transfer medium. As do all Lycomings
>>(i.e. oil).
>
>
> Generally not in a boat. :>
>
> -Kysh
> do not archive
Since we seem to be doing analogs...
I've lost track of who made the "water cooled aerial vessels" post, but even if
you drive an original VW Beetle, what kind of cooling system is used in the cars
of virtually everyone you know? Do you think any of them would willingly trade
their illogical cooling systems (and the
durability/reliability/comfort/performance/economy inherent in the
engines/vehicles attached to those cooling systems) for your original VW Beetle
cooling system (and the attached engine/vehicle's level of
durability/reliability/comfort/performance/economy)?
Charlie
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Projects for sale? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie and Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
I'll be traveling by car from Mississippi through Atlanta to Greensboro NC this
weekend. The return path after Christmas can be changed if needed.
If anyone has an RV-6/7 project for sale near this path, I'd love to take a look.
Thanks,
Charlie
cengland@netdoor.com
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-8A curved stick |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Truitt <Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
I too, was inspired by the ergonomics of Lyle Hefel's interior.
I had a friend custom "build" a front stick grip for my 8A - haven't flown
yet. By "build" I mean he cut and welded the stick in two places. I doubt
you can bend the stick to useable dimensions without collapsing the tube
(we didn't try).
My friend (and most knowledgable builder assistant) used a unique and
inexpensive process to obtain the exact geometry for my stick. I'm using
an Infinity stick grip and I wanted the ergonomics to be just right with the
cant and tilt of the grip, as well as the curvature of the stick. He had a
piece of PVC plastic plumbing pipe , same diameter as the front stick.
We heated it with a torch and slowly bent it in a vise when it became
soft. We did this until we had the right curves. Once you remove the
heat, the PVC hardens again within a few seconds. Just be careful not
to burn through the plastic.
To obtain the right stick height, he drilled multiple holes in the bottom of
the PVC, spaced about 1/2 to 3/4 inches apart. Each time we changed
the curvature by heating, I sat in the plane and tried it out. The process
was fast and easy with two people. When the right dimensions were
obtained, he used the PVC as the template to cut and reweld the metal
stick.
In addition, we have cut a semi-circular section out of the lower center
instrument panel for stick clearance. I did this because another friend
recently completed his RV-8A and I found his stick to be too short for my
comfort. The height of the stick was dictated by the height of the panel.
Even with the S curve in the stick, it would still hit the panel. So we used
the PVC stick template to draw a line matching the curvature of the stick
when swung from side to side, then cut the panel taking a little extra for
clearance. It may sound ugly, but it looks pretty good with the layout of
the instruments and avionics. I like it and several other people who have
sat in the plane like it.
Flying it will be the true test, of course.
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine |
Questions
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 12:31 PM 12/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
>
>It is a fact. The 0-360 can make full rated power for it's 2000 hour TBO.
It isn't at all a fact, JR. TBO is based on the use of maximum continuous
power (or less) most of the time. Maximum continuous power is 75%, not
full rated power.
You, as an A&P, should know better.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8A curved stick |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris <chrisw3@cox.net>
That tubing CAN be bent with out kinks or crushing the tube like the muffler
shops do. But you have to have a shop that has a "draw bar" (I think that is
what they are called) tubing bender. It pulls on the tube to stretch it while
bending. In bigger cities you should be able to find a shop that can do that
especially with that small of a tube. Now if you want to make big 3" steel
bumpers for your truck, finding a place to bend that big of tubing isn't so
easy;)
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206 (home)
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flight Simulator Control |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Time: 01:10:26 PM PST US
From: dmedema@att.net
Subject: RV-List: Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related)
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Alright all you Flight Simulator junkies: can you recommend
your favorite input devices such as control wheels/sticks and
rudder pedals. My daughter (14 years old) is into airplanes
and we recently upgraded our computer to handle a copy of
FS2002 she bought. I'm looking for some input devices for
a Christmas present for her.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276 (reserved) finishing up!
------------------------------------------------Hello Doug
I just bought a Logitec Freedom 2.4 Wireless joystick for my
computer and as an airline pilot I can tell you it's the closest thing to
the real thing.It has a fairly heavy base so it doesn't move much and the
feel of it is pretty close to the feel of an Airbus joystick.It's wireless
so you can play as far as 20 feet away from the computer.
Go to : www.logitech.com for info
Have fun and merry christmas to you and your family
Bruno Dionne
rv4@videotron.ca
Do not archive
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
Subject: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
I have used vinyl graphics and stripes extensively on planes, boats, and autos,
as well as on the windows of my medical clinic. The modern materials are guaranteed
not to peel or fade in the sun for 8 years. They are also easily replaced
in the event of damage. I've been using Prism Graphics of Seattle WA for over
8 years for many different projects. They are the best! Their number is 206-282-1801.
Ask for Brad, and mention my name! You can also visit them at www.prismvinyl.com
DOC
----- Original Message -----
From: build9a <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
For those of you who are already flying; How do the vinyl graphics
stripes hold up. Are you satisfied or would you use paint rather than
the vinyl graphics decals next time? thanks, je 90508 (fuselage)
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
Subject: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
I should also tell you that Prism graphics has great prices as well. Here is a
25' parasailing ship, on which they did extensive striping for me. The entire
job cost only $900.00. If the attatchments do not come through, you can view the
boat at http://www.822heal.com/doc%20holiday2.jpg www.prismvinyl.com
DOC
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: build9a <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
For those of you who are already flying; How do the vinyl graphics
stripes hold up. Are you satisfied or would you use paint rather than
the vinyl graphics decals next time? thanks, je 90508 (fuselage)
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Jim:
Thank you for your suggestions and ideas, first
practical answer. I have a question, my problem is
with the canopy frame, one side fits ok, but the right
side, needs to be openned at the bottom.
When you say, while in lace on the airframe, in order
to use your port. bender",,I must leave space enough
to put the 2 blocks of wood, betweens the canopy frame
and roll bar no? Then apply the carpenter clamp, which
I just got one.. Am I understanding this correct?
My problem is I had to open the bottom front end
of the canopy, so that the rolling wheels, would fit
into the rails....I had to do this outside some how...
then I can go to your idea...
I hope you can understand,my explanation and question..
Thanks again,
Happy Holidays !!!
Bert rv6a
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drill Bits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Take a regular drill bit and grind the tip at about a 60 angle. That will
keep it from bitting the plexi and cracking it.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Plexi Drill Bits
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> I've got two more holes I've decided to add to my canopy but I can't find
my 1/8" plexi drill bit. Can I go ahead and try real slow and carefull with
a reg drill bit? What is the risk? Huge?
>
> They're the front two holes in the RV6A side skin strips that so many
listers have recommended to leave out. I have decided to do them because my
bubble only bulges out about 3/16 here yet the metal skin strip wants to
bulge out a bunch. I don't know how to otherwise get a good finish here so I
am going to risk putting the the last holes as per Vans plans.
>
> For the newbies: lots on this in the archives. If your bubble is bulging
at the front sides a whole bunch, it has been proven by many that this is
the highest risk point to crack your canopy in the building process.
>
> Also, plexi drill bits are special. They are more pointy where normal
drill bits have a flatter rake to the cutting surfaces. Get yours at Avery,
you only need one of each size unless you are prone to losing things (give
me a break, I had to move my project)
>
> Norman Hunger
> RV6A Delta BC
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith@galvinflying.com>
My father is just now painting his RV-3. He is using vinyl for the trim and
N-numbers. He intends to apply at least one clear coat over the vinyl.
Keith Vasey
RV-8 (finish)
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dr. Kevin P.
Leathers
Subject: RV-List: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers"
<DrLeathers@822heal.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
Subject: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
I should also tell you that Prism graphics has great prices as well. Here is
a 25' parasailing ship, on which they did extensive striping for me. The
entire job cost only $900.00. If the attatchments do not come through, you
can view the boat at http://www.822heal.com/doc%20holiday2.jpg
www.prismvinyl.com
DOC
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: build9a <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 11:17 AM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
For those of you who are already flying; How do the vinyl graphics
stripes hold up. Are you satisfied or would you use paint rather than
the vinyl graphics decals next time? thanks, je 90508 (fuselage)
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Bert, I think I read your question right:
Like you, I started with opening out the forward hoop of the canopy, (the
one that fits next the roll bar). When I re-shaped this part the rest of the
canopy frame changed with it.
I did some of the re-shaping with the canopy frame both on and off the
airframe.
When re-bending the slider forward tube in place on the airframe I would
remove the windshield roll bar witch I had held in place with clekoes
As you are well aware by now this frame is an awkward piece to play with at
best.
The home made "portable bender" worked best on the straighter runs, such as
across the top of the forward slider roll bar tube and the tubes that run
parallel to the center line of the fuselage when the slider frame is in
place.
I spent hours at this tweak it here, then here, then there, and back here
again etc. Most everybody that has done this job seems to have one or
another rude comment about it!
I think that fitting cowlings and building tanks are a snap compared to this
combination 'wrestling match and torture' building step.
I'm convinced that the Van's instructions should read, Take the slider frame
out of the box and write off the next three weeks of your life and at least
half your sanity!!{;-)!
Stay with it and you will end up with a good fit.
Lots of luck and have a wonderful Christmas Season
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: canopy frame
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bert Forero" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Jim:
>
> Thank you for your suggestions and ideas, first
> practical answer. I have a question, my problem is
> with the canopy frame, one side fits ok, but the right
> side, needs to be openned at the bottom.
>
> When you say, while in lace on the airframe, in order
> to use your port. bender",,I must leave space enough
> to put the 2 blocks of wood, betweens the canopy frame
> and roll bar no? Then apply the carpenter clamp, which
> I just got one.. Am I understanding this correct?
>
> My problem is I had to open the bottom front end
> of the canopy, so that the rolling wheels, would fit
> into the rails....I had to do this outside some how...
> then I can go to your idea...
>
> I hope you can understand,my explanation and question..
>
>
> Thanks again,
>
>
> Happy Holidays !!!
>
>
> Bert rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Joel Haynes <joelhaynes@tds.net>
For me it was the best $150. I bought a 50k-85k btu variable forced air propane
heater for my barn / shop. This sucker is like a flame thrower. You don't need
to turn it on ahead of time to warm up the building. Just point it in your general
direction and you feel like you're on the beach. Just dangle your drill
and rivet gun in the air flow for half a minute and they are ready to go. I ran
it for a good hour with a CO detector in the barn and could detect no CO build
up.
do not archive
Keeping warm in WI
Joel Haynes
Mazomanie, WI
7a wing
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I've got some vinyl on my airplane. It is 2 years old and looks just like
it did the day I applied it. Vinyl graphics are proven technology (millions
of signs, commercial vehicles, and custom autos of history out there). Buy
a good product and it'll last as long as most paint jobs.
I would recommend skipping the clear coat unless you get a favorable opinion
of that idea from a factory rep from the vinyl manufacturer. Solvents can
turn vinyl into goo. That's why we don't use RTV (Room Temperature Vinyl)
near our fuel systems. Eventually the gasoline dissolves it.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc" <keith@galvinflying.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc"
<keith@galvinflying.com>
>
> My father is just now painting his RV-3. He is using vinyl for the trim
and
> N-numbers. He intends to apply at least one clear coat over the vinyl.
>
> Keith Vasey
> RV-8 (finish)
> Seattle
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dr. Kevin P.
> Leathers
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers"
> <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
> To: graphics@prismvinyl.com
> Subject: Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dr. Kevin P. Leathers
> To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
>
>
> I should also tell you that Prism graphics has great prices as well. Here
is
> a 25' parasailing ship, on which they did extensive striping for me. The
> entire job cost only $900.00. If the attatchments do not come through, you
> can view the boat at http://www.822heal.com/doc%20holiday2.jpg
> www.prismvinyl.com
>
> DOC
>
> Do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: build9a <eckdahl@dellmail.com>
> To: vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 11:17 AM
> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals
>
>
> For those of you who are already flying; How do the vinyl graphics
> stripes hold up. Are you satisfied or would you use paint rather than
> the vinyl graphics decals next time? thanks, je 90508 (fuselage)
>
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: [VAF Mailing List] vinyl graphic decals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Keith,
I'm not so sure I would recommend this. I'm all for Vinyl Graphics, as they
look great, are quick, easy, and relatively inexpensive. Putting the clear
coat over the vinyl could create a mess either now or in the futre for
several reasons;
1) You need to make sure the Vinyl doesn't react with the clear coat.
2) ALL vinyl degrades eventually. The new stuff lasts 5-8 years, but still
needs replaced sooner or later.
3) Clear coating will still not get rid of the edges. You can't "wet sand"
vinyl edges.
4) If you want smooth edges or are worried about peeling, use some "edge
sealer" made specifically for that purpose.
5) Trying to clean up the paint job now or in the future could be
problematic. I can't imagine trying to replace the vinyl with a coat of
paint over them.
I too have applied lots of Vinyl N-Numbers, decals, stripes etc.. on
everything from Aeronca's to 747's. It works great, and one of the benefits
is the easy removal and replacement. As a side note about edge sealer, I was
involved in putting on vinyl graphics for an Airline's 747-400 covered with
children's art. We used over 55 gallons of edge sealer!
Just my opinion, take it for what it's worth.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis
--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey/Galvin Flying Svc"
<keith@galvinflying.com>
My father is just now painting his RV-3. He is using vinyl for the trim and
N-numbers. He intends to apply at least one clear coat over the vinyl.
Keith Vasey
RV-8 (finish)
Seattle
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As Tedd McHenry was saying:
> > >>I think it bears noting, given this analogy, that a "liquid-cooled" engine
is
> > >>air cooled. It just uses a liquid heat transfer medium. As do all Lycomings
> > >>(i.e. oil).
> > >
> > >
> > > Generally not in a boat. :>
> > >
> > > -Kysh
>
> Shoot, did I post that to the Boating List instead of the RV List? I hate when
> I do that.
No, but you did post to a thread discussing engines, and respond to a post
about boat engines (Relevant as context) by saying the above.
The above is generally incorrect for boats. They generally use fresh water
cooling jackets to exchange heat with salt water.
You may not care about boats engines, but you can't use that as an excuse
to defend a fallacial statement made about them.
To be honest, I'm surprised more people haven't brought up the subject
of boat engines in this thread. The requirements and duty cycles are similar.
There are places where, if the engine fails in a boat, your chances of
survival are lower than losing an engine in an airplane over the Himalayas.
The biggest major difference is that weight is generally not a factor.
-Kysh
Do not archive
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.unix-vs-nt.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
"If the facts don't fit the theory, change the facts."
-- Albert Einstein
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plexi Drill Bits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <chuck@chuckdirect.com>
Why take a chance? The Plexi Bits at Home Depot are like three bucks. The
canopy is substantially more
Chuck Weyant (Puttin' in the Panel)
>
> Take a regular drill bit and grind the tip at about a 60 angle. That will
> keep it from bitting the plexi and cracking it.
>
> Wayne
>
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Placement of ELT remote |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" <rv9er@3rivers.net>
If you got the prepunched panel for your -9A, there are already holes for the ELT
remote just above the flight instruments.
Gary
---
Message 46
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flight Simulator Control |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
The Microsoft Force Feedback Pro is really good too. Great for a multitude
of games, including Flight Simulators. It has little motors inside that
simulate stick forces. You land, it shakes a little. You stall, it gets
light, etc.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "bruno" <rv4@videotron.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Flight Simulator Control
> --> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>
> Time: 01:10:26 PM PST US
> From: dmedema@att.net
> Subject: RV-List: Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> Alright all you Flight Simulator junkies: can you recommend
> your favorite input devices such as control wheels/sticks and
> rudder pedals. My daughter (14 years old) is into airplanes
> and we recently upgraded our computer to handle a copy of
> FS2002 she bought. I'm looking for some input devices for
> a Christmas present for her.
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276 (reserved) finishing up!
>
> ------------------------------------------------Hello Doug
> I just bought a Logitec Freedom 2.4 Wireless joystick for my
> computer and as an airline pilot I can tell you it's the closest thing to
> the real thing.It has a fairly heavy base so it doesn't move much and the
> feel of it is pretty close to the feel of an Airbus joystick.It's wireless
> so you can play as far as 20 feet away from the computer.
> Go to : www.logitech.com for info
>
> Have fun and merry christmas to you and your family
>
> Bruno Dionne
> rv4@videotron.ca
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 47
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> I thought it was in the latest issue of Sport Aviation --- there is a
> company flying a turboprop powered RV3 or RV4. They hope to be on the
> market next year!
>
And, of course this mod comes with air to air refueling capabilities or a fuel
trailer to tow behind your airplane!
: - )
Dave, RV6, SO Cal
Message 48
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine |
Questions
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>At 12:31 PM 12/12/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
>>
>>It is a fact. The 0-360 can make full rated power for it's 2000 hour TBO.
>
>It isn't at all a fact, JR. TBO is based on the use of maximum continuous
>power (or less) most of the time. Maximum continuous power is 75%, not
>full rated power.
>
>You, as an A&P, should know better.
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
Hal,
Check the Type Certificate Data Sheets for the O-320 and O-360.
Maximum Continuous Power is the same as Takeoff Power for these
engines.
Note: I still question JR's statement that the engine can make full
rated power for the full TBO period. Lots of people have stated
various "facts" about how TBO is determined, but no one has been able
to back their "facts" up with a reference, so I think most of these
"facts" are only "beliefs".
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 49
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: chip detector |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
What a great resource this list is, Thanks guys. Just what I was looking
for. I've sent a request for info & quote to Global Aviation.
do not archive
Tracy
Subject: RE: RV-List: chip detector
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
>
> This would be the ADC remote filter system
>
> http://www.globalav.com.au/adc-recip.html
>
> I haven't tried one, but the skywagon guys are very fond of them.
>
> John RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate engine
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
>
> Tracy + List,
>
> Doesn't one of the "remote oil filter" companies offer a chip detector for
> their unit?
>
> Don't know how good or cost effective it is but I do remember talking to
> them a few years ago about it. Their point was similar about the engine.
>
> IIRC, it was the one with the "stronger/beefier" of the remote mounts.
>
>
> James
Message 50
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
Yes!
Those are the guys. Their product seemed to be a bit more "substantial" than
the other one (that probably works just as well).
The other company is something like Airwolf but I do not think they have a
chip detector.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Huft
> Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2002 9:56 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: chip detector
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
>
> This would be the ADC remote filter system
>
> http://www.globalav.com.au/adc-recip.html
>
> I haven't tried one, but the skywagon guys are very fond of them.
>
> John RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James E. Clark
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Alternate engine
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
>
> Tracy + List,
>
> Doesn't one of the "remote oil filter" companies offer a chip detector for
> their unit?
>
> Don't know how good or cost effective it is but I do remember talking to
> them a few years ago about it. Their point was similar about the engine.
>
> IIRC, it was the one with the "stronger/beefier" of the remote mounts.
>
>
> James
>
> <<<SNIP>>>
>
> >
> > Been there, done that! :-)
> >
> > And the Mazda 13B rotary installation weighs the same as a Lyc O - 320.
> > I agree with those who think the 100 pound increase is a
> non-starter, even
> > if it has the advantage of direct drive.
> >
> > I also agree with whoever said that it is the added accessories
> > that are the
> > major reliability concern on an alternative engine. I believe that the
> > rotary is equal or better than the Lycoming in reliability, it is the
> > reduction drive that I think about when I'm flying my plane.
> Which brings
> > me to the real point of this post.
> >
> > Every known failure mode of my reduction drive will manifest
> itself by the
> > presence of metal chips (steel) in the oil return line from the
> > drive. This
> > happens long before a possible catestrophic failure. If I had
> a good chip
> > detector, it would increase my confidence level during flight at
> > least 500%.
> > I found one source of chip detectors (used in helicopter
> > transmissions) but
> > the price was way beyond reasonable. Anyone out there aware of any at
> > reasonable prices? If not, I'll have to add this to my list of
> things to
> > design.
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> > 13B powered RV-4 , 1300+ hrs.
> > 20B powered RV-8, Getting ready for final cut on canopy.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 51
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: chip detector |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Tracy
I called ADC today and checked on their chip detector. They quoted
$285 for the 5/8 x 18 probe. It was out of stock, but would be in a
couple of weeks. It sounded like they were sourcing the part so
it may be available for less somewhere else?
Aviation Development Corp.
1-800/944-3011
www.aviationdevelopment.com
George Meketa
RV8, N444TX
> What a great resource this list is, Thanks guys. Just what I was looking
> for. I've sent a request for info & quote to Global Aviation.
>
> do not archive
>
> Tracy
>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: chip detector
Message 52
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: parallel valves--choices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Turbines, I saw the turbine RV4, I worked some on the turbine Luscombe and
> have seen it run. Both are impressive.
Say what?
Please say some more.
Any pics?
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive
Message 53
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flight Simulator controls (marginally RV related) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eric Borduas" <eborduas@lycos.com>
FlightSym Yoke USB and Pro Pedals USB from chproducts (www.chproduct.com).
They are make Joy sticks.
Do Not Archive
Message 54
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Flight Simulator Control |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Paul Besing wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
> The Microsoft Force Feedback Pro is really good too. Great for a multitude
> of games, including Flight Simulators. It has little motors inside that
> simulate stick forces. You land, it shakes a little.
Well, maybe when *you* land... 8-)
I had one of these joysticks for a while, and really liked it as a
joystick. I was less impressed with Microsoft's Flight Simulator,
though. I had FS2000 at the time, and a computer more than powerful
enough to run it, but still it never seemed realistic enough for my
tastes. It was a little too jerky in motion, and the delay between
control input and visual and tactile feedback was too long.
In the end I sold the joystick to a co-worker who now likes it a lot
with FS2002, so maybe it's better.
-RB4
Message 55
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Seat Belt Data |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Norman
The $312.50 and $499.00 is for a pair of harnesses. I recieved 15% off
list price ($297.50 pr.military latches) at OSH from Hooker. I am sure
that they can be purchased directly from them without pads for less. Great
quality at a great price.
Hints: 1. If you want pull tabs on your shoulder belts you may have to ask
2. My crotch and lap belts would slowly work loose. Hooker
installed
springs in the adjusters to prevent this (pilot lap and
crotch, copilot
crotch only). You have to ask for them. No more loosening with
springs installed.
3. They have lots of colors and will sent you samples of any
material.
Do not trust the computer pics.
4. Order earlier than actually needed in project. Sometimes
materials
are on backorder or they get busy on some large contract
order.
George Meketa
RV-8 Hooker Equipped, Cessna 140 too.
> HOOKER - Sport Set 1.75" wide
> http://www.hookerharness.com/
> 3.9 lbs per seat $312.50 per seat with military latches and $499 with the
rotary buckles.
> Available from Team Rocket at
>> http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/
Message 56
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: References please -- WAS:Alternative Engine Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: JRWillJR@aol.com
"It isn't at all a fact, JR. TBO is based on the use of maximum continuous
power (or less) most of the time. Maximum continuous power is 75%, not
full rated power.
You, as an A&P, should know better".
Read the TC for the engines in question. I will stay with what I said. Real
life is different of course but my experience is that most times they will
make TBO.
It is not my responsibility to do the research for you.
The boat thing, well, I think someone else compared aircraft engines to boat
engines, I just pointed out a relevant difference, boats have plenty of
coolant available and by the way, boats are not air to liquid, they are
liquid to liquid via a heat exchanger or use water drawn directly from what
ever body of water they are in, if you don't want to talk about boats then
don't compare airplane engines to boat motors.
Do Not Archive. JR
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|