---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 12/21/02: 22 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:18 AM - Re: It's here! (Mark Phillips) 2. 05:45 AM - Re: It's here! (Tom & Cathy Ervin) 3. 06:26 AM - Re: LASAR ignition wiring (John Huft) 4. 07:25 AM - Re: chip detector & QB plans (Tracy Crook) 5. 08:33 AM - Re: It's here! (rv6tc) 6. 09:00 AM - Re: Full power & TBO WAS: References-Alternative (kempthornes) 7. 09:14 AM - Re: LASAR ignition wiring (kempthornes) 8. 09:24 AM - Re: It's here! (John Starn) 9. 09:30 AM - Re: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) (WALTER KERR) 10. 09:34 AM - Fw: open slider in flight (John Starn) 11. 10:59 AM - CanopyCravings (JOHNTMEY@aol.com) 12. 11:43 AM - Re: Plexi repair. (Dean Pichon) 13. 11:55 AM - Re: LASAR ignition wiring (John Huft) 14. 02:05 PM - Re: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) (Charles Rowbotham) 15. 02:11 PM - Re: Plexi Drill Bits - No (Charles Rowbotham) 16. 02:32 PM - Re: Vinyl graphics life expectancy? (Charles Rowbotham) 17. 02:49 PM - Re: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) (David Carter) 18. 03:53 PM - Re: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) (WALTER KERR) 19. 04:25 PM - Elevator horn washers (Geoff Evans) 20. 07:59 PM - Re: open slider in flight (Gary) 21. 08:04 PM - Re: Elevator horn washers (Steve J Hurlbut) 22. 08:06 PM - Re: Elevator horn washers (Vanremog@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:18:03 AM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: Re: RV-List: It's here! --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips rv7@cox.net wrote: > Empennage kit arrived today so I guess I'm officially a builder now :) ...oh no you're not- not til you've: 1. Ordered at least your 5th screw-up replacement from Oregon 2. Drilled the 3rd hole in a finger or hand 3. Been in a -list flame war 4. Decided to switch primers 5. Built 2 left parts when it's supposed to be L & R 6. Drilled out your 50th rivet 7. De-burred your 1000th hole 8. Bitched about the plans 9. Surrendered & called the hotline 10. Etc... But don't worry, you should be there by the time the wing kit arrives! 8-) Congratulations and best of luck! You just joined one helluva fraternity... From The PossumWorks in TN Mark - "obsolete" -6A ...don't call me a "builder" til it leaves the ground and gets back in one piece! do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:45:40 AM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: Re: RV-List: It's here! --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Merry Christmas!! Now the fun starts!!! Welcome David!!!! Do Not Archive Tom in Ohio (Fiberglass City) ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: It's here! > --> RV-List message posted by: > > Empennage kit arrived today so I guess I'm officially a builder now :) > > -David N207DT Reserved > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:26:43 AM PST US From: "John Huft" Subject: RE: RV-List: LASAR ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" The blue and green wires are simply grounded to turn the mags off, and left open to turn the mags on. The magic box senses the ground and turns the mags off. There is not the usual noise on these wires, because they are not P-leads at all. You can cut these wires to whatever length is convienent. The cables from the majic box to the mags are pre-prepared, and are not to be messed with. John, RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO 28 hours flying with LASAR. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roy Glass or Mary Poteet Subject: RV-List: LASAR ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: Roy Glass or Mary Poteet How does one wire the p-leads for a LASAR ignition? I want to use toggle switches for each magneto and a push-button starter. The blue and green wires from the LASAR low voltage control harness do not appear to be shielded and do not go directly to a magneto, instead they go to the controller box. I realize that each magneto needs to be grounded to be "off," but how does one do this with a LASAR? Should I use a shielded p-lead wire with the primary wire attached to terminal 3 of a single-pole switch and the wire's shielding connected to both terminal 2 AND to panel ground? The other end of each shielded wire would not be grounded to a magneto or engine ground (single-point ground, but with a short length of shielded wire). The other end of the primary wire would be spliced to the blue or green harness wire. Is there a better way? Is a shielded p-lead even needed with the LASAR? Should I shorten the non-shielded harness wires to reduce the chance of noise or leave them be (about 6 feet long) and just use a short length of shielded wire to get past the firewall? Lots of questions, and I haven't even gotten to the CHT part yet. Can someone direct me to a wiring diagram for the LASAR using toggle switches instead of a key switch? Roy Glass, RV-6, fwf, Anchorage, Alaska ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:25:55 AM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: chip detector & QB plans --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" Just what I was looking for Doug, I ordered a chip detector from ADC yesterday. And thanks for the real-life operational characteristics. I haven't had any 'metal chip' problems with my reduction drive after the initial development work (see Gear Drive Development on my website for gory details www.rotaryaviation.com ) but I was getting tired of tearing down the drive for regular inspections. With the ADC detector installed I can eliminate them and fly with a lot more confidence. Now have over 400 hours on the latest design with no signs of wear & tear. I'm delighted with my -8 QB kit but can't believe the QB 'instructions' for the fuselage. From memory they read something like "Start at the tail and work forward." Yes, you do get the regular kit instructions as well but I literally spent as much time digging out the isolated parts of the instructions required than I did actually doing the work. OK, got that off my chest, now I feel better. Tracy > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" > > The ADC chip detector is a slick unit, it has an O-ring seal so you can > easily clear it with a 1/4 turn and only a "drip" of oil running out. > > I have never flown a flat motor with a chip detector, but lots of round > ones. I view a chip detector as a "yellow" light not a "red" one. Yellow > means caution and red means warning. In round engines they do go off with > some regularity, especially on new engines. A piece of metal that is almost > too small to see will find it's way to the magnet and close the circuit. If > you clear the light and it lights again right away, then digging into the > filter or the screen is required. > > If I landed immediately everytime it lit up, I would find the device > annoying. If oil temp and pressure are normal I press on and clear it at > the next landing. It is a great tool and I appreciate flying airplanes that > have them. Mount the thing somewhere that is easily accessible. Uncowling > everytime it lights would become tedious. > > HO HO HO > Doug Rozendaal ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:33:23 AM PST US From: "rv6tc" Subject: Re: RV-List: It's here! --> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" Marks's right....... 'cept he forgot 11. Dimpled the wrong side of the skin. Keith Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Phillips" > > ...oh no you're not- not til you've: > > 1. Ordered at least your 5th screw-up replacement from Oregon > 2. Drilled the 3rd hole in a finger or hand > 3. Been in a -list flame war > 4. Decided to switch primers > 5. Built 2 left parts when it's supposed to be L & R > 6. Drilled out your 50th rivet > 7. De-burred your 1000th hole > 8. Bitched about the plans > 9. Surrendered & called the hotline > 10. Etc... > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:00:15 AM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: RE: RV-List: Full power & TBO WAS: References-Alternative Engine etc --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 12:59 AM 12/21/2002 -0600, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > >Why this discussion even started or what question people are hoping to have >answered, I've yet to figure out. My interest in this discussion is a better engine for the fine RV series of airplane. Another personal need is to have something more interesting to discuss with y'all than "how do I bang this rivet". I hope the discussion is helping to dispel some myths such as: Auto engines can't fly. Smithsonian Institution Magazine article of several years ago. The four cylinder Lycoming has been tested to run 2000 hours at full rated power. Liquid cooling doesn't work in airplanes. P-51 Mustang, Wright Bros. and many, many others. The four cylinder Lycoming cannot be improved upon. ?? Aircraft engines are certified thru inflight testing. Others??? Next, it would be nice to have the discussion continue in a rational way to lay down the requirements that we have for our **IDEAL** engine to put in our ideal airplanes. We are leading the world, Van and us, in the development of light aircraft and their systems. Manufacturers ignore the experimental market at their peril. Some already make things that they market "for experimentals only" which gives them someplace to test and improve product before going for a TSO or PMA. Lycoming would do well to develop a better engine for us instead of just 'milking the cow'. The Lycoming is adequate but adequate is not enough. Merry Christmas!!! K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK flying! PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:14:44 AM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 10:15 PM 12/20/2002 -0900, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Roy Glass or Mary Poteet > >How does one wire the p-leads for a LASAR ignition? I want to use toggle >switches for each magneto and a push-button starter. Hiya Roy, My system is still all magneto but this probably is okay by the LASAR. My system does not use the clumsy, low quality and heavy aircraft switch. Instead it uses two double pole triple throw toggle micro switches. Cheaper, lighter and much higher reliability. Bob Nuckolls book shows how to wire them. There may be a diagram in the archives. How they work is pretty cool. The down position for each switch is off which grounds both mags. Put left switch all the way up to unground the left mag and operate the starter - no need for a push button. This up position is momentary, that is, spring loaded. Release the left switch which goes to center position which leaves the engine running on the left mag. Now, move the right switch to the center position (or full up) to unground that mag. Two round trips to Oshkosh and still no problems! I suppose you'll be having a white Christmas?? ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:24:03 AM PST US From: "John Starn" Subject: Re: RV-List: It's here! --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" 12. The dozen times your building partner pinches your finger/arm when his/her grip slips or sets the cleco too soon. Do not Archive. KABONG ----- Original Message ----- From: "rv6tc" Subject: Re: RV-List: It's here! > --> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" > > Marks's right....... > > 'cept he forgot 11. Dimpled the wrong side of the skin. > > Keith > > Do not archive > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark Phillips" > > > > ...oh no you're not- not til you've: > > > > 1. Ordered at least your 5th screw-up replacement from Oregon > > 2. Drilled the 3rd hole in a finger or hand > > 3. Been in a -list flame war > > 4. Decided to switch primers > > 5. Built 2 left parts when it's supposed to be L & R > > 6. Drilled out your 50th rivet > > 7. De-burred your 1000th hole > > 8. Bitched about the plans > > 9. Surrendered & called the hotline > > 10. Etc... > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:30:37 AM PST US From: "WALTER KERR" Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" > >I'm not sure how the tone should change when AOA increases from "final >approach AOA" towards "stall AOA". > - Perhaps the tone could be 2 beeps per second at some medium audio >frequency (pitch) at "final approach" AOA and simply increase linearly in >both 'number of beeps per second' and audio frequency of tone (pitch) until >it was a solid tone of some irritatingly higher pitch at stall. > > I'm not sure that going to a very high frequency as one progresses toward stall is good. Being in the over 65 category and having worked around jet engines before everyone realized how you would suffer great hearing loss means that instead of getting louder, it would simply fade away as frequency increased. bernie kerr ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:23 AM PST US From: "John Starn" Subject: Fw: RV-List: open slider in flight --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" Come on you guys, somebody can add some spin on this subject. (We here at APV lost a guy getting ready to take his private check ride last week. Doing low, tight turns around a point. Cherokee was seen in a "spiral" and hit inverted.) Do not Archive KABONG ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Starn" Subject: Re: RV-List: open slider in flight > Do not archive > Come on already......quit stalling around, what is it ?, > Enquiring minds want to know. 8 ) > KABONG > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Boyd C. Braem" > see, low airspeed and nose > > high--hmm, that reminds me of something--it'll come to me. > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:59:50 AM PST US From: JOHNTMEY@aol.com Subject: RV-List: CanopyCravings --> RV-List message posted by: JOHNTMEY@aol.com Listers, I haven't been following RV list but an item crossed over to the Rocket List, which I do follow.... item: "sliding canopy" and "canopy open in flight". My project is stuck on that. My HRocketII project is well along but I'm being slowed down by the canopy... I have the Frederick slider kit with sloped windshield option. None of this is installed yet but I have cardboard and foam chunks taped-on trying to change the design to fit my goals. I want a slider for the front pit.. openable (with usual limits) in flight. I am trying to rig the canopy so that is rolls back on a robust track system limited to about 22 inches travel... access to the rear pit requires that the canopy then open via secondary system, likely the RV4 tilt (not to be done in-flight!). Yep, I know Pitts/Christen does it on the bipes, but haven't studied that too much. Anyone in DEN area want to "consult" or lend a hand on this engineering/fabrication drill ? Will trade time, firewood, $$ or whatever. I need to get this hangar queen airborne ! John Meyers Golden, CO johntmey@aol.com ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:43:26 AM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi repair. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" Hi Ray, Syringes are generally made of polypropylene (PP) and will not be affected by the solvents used to weld acrylic. The plungers tips (usually black) are either thermoplastic or thermoset rubber. These materials may swell when exposed to solvents. Some syringes are "tip-less" and rely on an interference fit for the seal. These are great for solvents. Most needles are steel, but if yours is really plastic, it's likely to be either PP or PTFE (Teflon). Neither are affected by most solvents. Test a little bit. Dean Pichon ----- Original Message ----- From: GRENIER@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Plexi repair. --> RV-List message posted by: GRENIER@aol.com I have a small crack in my canopy. I drilled a stop hole and ordered a can of Weld-on from ACS. Now I need some instructions. Has anyone used this stuff successfully? How do you apply it? I have a small hypo needle, but it is made out of plastic, won't it melt? Any step-by-step help will be greatly appreciated. Ray Grenier RV-4 being painted ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:55:47 AM PST US From: "John Huft" Subject: RE: RV-List: LASAR ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" With LASAR, both mags must be 'hot' (ungrounded) to start. Neither mag has an impulse coupling, that is taken care of by the magic box. John -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: LASAR ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 10:15 PM 12/20/2002 -0900, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Roy Glass or Mary Poteet > >How does one wire the p-leads for a LASAR ignition? I want to use toggle >switches for each magneto and a push-button starter. Hiya Roy, My system is still all magneto but this probably is okay by the LASAR. My system does not use the clumsy, low quality and heavy aircraft switch. Instead it uses two double pole triple throw toggle micro switches. Cheaper, lighter and much higher reliability. Bob Nuckolls book shows how to wire them. There may be a diagram in the archives. How they work is pretty cool. The down position for each switch is off which grounds both mags. Put left switch all the way up to unground the left mag and operate the starter - no need for a push button. This up position is momentary, that is, spring loaded. Release the left switch which goes to center position which leaves the engine running on the left mag. Now, move the right switch to the center position (or full up) to unground that mag. Two round trips to Oshkosh and still no problems! I suppose you'll be having a white Christmas?? ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:05:05 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Bernie, Al: With Jim's Frantz's AOA - We tied the audio directly to the headset jacks. It works great - I have no trouble hearing the Push - Push - Push in my headset. I also spent 4 years working around jet engines in the USAF. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A 160 hrs >From: "WALTER KERR" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, >FYI) >Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 12:26:53 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" > > > > > >I'm not sure how the tone should change when AOA increases from "final > >approach AOA" towards "stall AOA". > > - Perhaps the tone could be 2 beeps per second at some medium audio > >frequency (pitch) at "final approach" AOA and simply increase linearly in > >both 'number of beeps per second' and audio frequency of tone (pitch) >until > >it was a solid tone of some irritatingly higher pitch at stall. > > > > > >I'm not sure that going to a very high frequency as one progresses toward >stall is good. Being in the over 65 category and having worked around jet >engines before everyone realized how you would suffer great hearing loss >means that instead of getting louder, it would simply fade away as >frequency >increased. > >bernie kerr > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:11:33 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi Drill Bits - No --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" All, We drilled our canopy as follows: 1. Heated the garage to 90 F 2. Drilled intial hole with a regular # 40 bit 3. Then enlarged to the proper diameter with a UniBit - haven't been able to get the single flute to grab. 4. Used a countersink to accept rivet. With that said we used proseal (SemWeld) in the caulking type tube to attach the canopy to the fram with about 6 keeper rivets to hold the canopy to the frame while it cures. This is the same method used by Christian eagle to attach their canopy. In addition to a firm seal - por seal still has some flex to deal with expansion. With 160 hours on our 8A canopy is solid and crack free. Good Building, Chuck 7 Dave Rowbotham RV-8A 160 hours >From: "Wayne R. Couture" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Plexi Drill Bits >Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 16:23:02 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" > > >Take a regular drill bit and grind the tip at about a 60 angle. That will >keep it from bitting the plexi and cracking it. > >Wayne > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Norman" >To: >Subject: RV-List: Plexi Drill Bits > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" > > > > I've got two more holes I've decided to add to my canopy but I can't >find >my 1/8" plexi drill bit. Can I go ahead and try real slow and carefull with >a reg drill bit? What is the risk? Huge? > > > > They're the front two holes in the RV6A side skin strips that so many >listers have recommended to leave out. I have decided to do them because my >bubble only bulges out about 3/16 here yet the metal skin strip wants to >bulge out a bunch. I don't know how to otherwise get a good finish here so >I >am going to risk putting the the last holes as per Vans plans. > > > > For the newbies: lots on this in the archives. If your bubble is bulging >at the front sides a whole bunch, it has been proven by many that this is >the highest risk point to crack your canopy in the building process. > > > > Also, plexi drill bits are special. They are more pointy where normal >drill bits have a flatter rake to the cutting surfaces. Get yours at Avery, >you only need one of each size unless you are prone to losing things (give >me a break, I had to move my project) > > > > Norman Hunger > > RV6A Delta BC > > Do not archive > > > > > > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 3 months FREE*. http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_smartspamprotection_3mf ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:32:00 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Vinyl graphics life expectancy? --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Mark, We highly recommend Woodward Sign (TX) - Phil Fox co-owner work with us to size the decals. The cost was also reasonable. We installed them on 6/2001 and they still look great. Chuck 7 Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: czechsix@juno.com >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Vinyl graphics life expectancy? >Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2002 18:56:43 GMT > >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > >On the subject of vinyl graphics....I'm interested in using some on my -8A >paint scheme and am wondering what the realistic life expectancy is for >vinyl on an airplane that is hangared. I've seen the numbers from 3M and >other manufacturers that their graphics can last up to 8-9 years outside on >signs, with disclaimers that greater UV exposure will shorten their >lifespan (i.e. any application on horizontal surface wil have shorter life >than on a vertical surface due to more sunlight, etc.). > >So...UV obviously plays a part but do temperature extremes also affect the >longevity, or can I expect vinyl on a hangared airplane to last almost >indefinitely? Any experts out there? > >Thanks, > >--Mark Navratil >Cedar Rapids, Iowa >RV-8A N2D fiberglass... > > http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_advancedjmf_3mf ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:49:02 PM PST US From: "David Carter" Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" ----- Original Message ----- From: "WALTER KERR" Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) > --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" > > > > > >I'm not sure how the tone should change when AOA increases from "final > >approach AOA" towards "stall AOA". > > - Perhaps the tone could be 2 beeps per second at some medium audio > >frequency (pitch) at "final approach" AOA and simply increase linearly in > >both 'number of beeps per second' and audio frequency of tone (pitch) until > >it was a solid tone of some irritatingly higher pitch at stall. > > > > > > I'm not sure that going to a very high frequency as one progresses toward > stall is good. Being in the over 65 category and having worked around jet > engines before everyone realized how you would suffer great hearing loss > means that instead of getting louder, it would simply fade away as frequency > increased. > > bernie kerr > Bernie, I'm 62, flew T-37s and fighters, and have tinitus. The Air Force testing stopped at an upper limit of 4000 Hz or so - I knew my "internal noises" were much higher than than. A couple of years ago I stumbled onto the Beep command in Basic, wrote a 5 line Basic program that printed a line on the screen telling me to "Enter frequency", then played that frequency/tone on the basic computer speaker using the Beep command (which has parameters), played it for 3 seconds, then shut off and looped back to "Enter frequency". I found that I had multiple high pitched tones in my head, starting at 6400, that were maybe 60 HZ wide, where speaker's amplitude would about blend with my "internal" tones. Then would be OK until a few hundred Hz higher, another band, etc, all the way up to about 8400 Hz - at the point and above, I heard nothing from computer - my "head noises" drowned it out. My point is, you (I) can run cockpit alerting tones in the 1000 Hz to 3000 Hz area, well below most people's tinitis. Each person can test his own "internal noises" with such a basic program. David Carter ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:53:23 PM PST US From: "WALTER KERR" Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, FYI) --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" Charlie and David, Yep, I have my PS AOA tied directly to the headset and I can hear the push angle push very clearly W/O the engine running, but only faintly hear it thru my Lightspeed noise canceling headset when at power. Jim F. has told me how to go internally and step volume up higher than the outside adjustment screw. Interestingly I can hear the RM microencoder beep beep even though it is not coming thru the headset. It is set at 70 knots, so it will come on before stall except in the worst of circumstances. My AOA lights are visible in my perephial(sp) vision and on my 9A I am going to put them on top of the glare shield rather than under it in my C/L of vision. Bernie >From: "Charles Rowbotham" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe info, >FYI) >Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 21:47:44 +0000 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" > >Bernie, Al: > >With Jim's Frantz's AOA - We tied the audio directly to the headset jacks. >It works great - I have no trouble hearing the Push - Push - Push in my >headset. I also spent 4 years working around jet engines in the USAF. > >Chuck & Dave Rowbotham >RV-8A 160 hrs > > > >From: "WALTER KERR" > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > >To: rv-list@matronics.com > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Aural tone with AOA (was Dynon Pitot/AOA probe >info, > >FYI) > >Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2002 12:26:53 -0500 > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" > > > > > > > > > >I'm not sure how the tone should change when AOA increases from "final > > >approach AOA" towards "stall AOA". > > > - Perhaps the tone could be 2 beeps per second at some medium >audio > > >frequency (pitch) at "final approach" AOA and simply increase linearly >in > > >both 'number of beeps per second' and audio frequency of tone (pitch) > >until > > >it was a solid tone of some irritatingly higher pitch at stall. > > > > > > > > > >I'm not sure that going to a very high frequency as one progresses toward > >stall is good. Being in the over 65 category and having worked around jet > >engines before everyone realized how you would suffer great hearing loss > >means that instead of getting louder, it would simply fade away as > >frequency > >increased. > > > >bernie kerr > > > > > > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 3 months FREE*. http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_smartspamprotection_3mf ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 04:25:17 PM PST US From: "Geoff Evans" Subject: RV-List: Elevator horn washers --> RV-List message posted by: "Geoff Evans" I just finished mounting my elevators today, and I have a question about the AN4 bolt through the elevator horns. First, the drawing shows a -14A bolt here, but that's just a smidge too short. I'll have to use a -15A bolt to have any threads at all sticking out of the nut. Did anyone else encounter this problem? (The preview plans drawing shows a -12A bolt, so maybe Van's doesn't really know what length it's actually supposed to be.) Second, the drawing also says to use a *maximum* of 3 AN960 washers on each side of the VA-146 bearing. In order to fill the gaps and keep the bolt from pulling the horns together (and keep the elevator travel as smooth as it is without torquing the nut), I have to use 4 washers on one side (3 AN960s and 1 AN960L thin washer). Does anyone know why the drawing says to use a maximum of 3 washers per side? I'd much rather put in whatever is required in order to fill the gap and keep the elevator travel smooth. Thanks. -Geoff Evans RV-8 QB -- moving on to the wings ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:59:20 PM PST US From: "Gary" Subject: Re: RV-List: open slider in flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Gary" If you really need to do this, I would just take it off, on a tandem slider only. I have seen an RV-8 fly with the slider removed temporarily. No apparent problems except the back seat passenger got the sh#@t beat out of him from the air blast. A side-by-side without the canopy might be a real bad idea. The original T-18 was intended to be open cockpit. That idea was scrapped after they tried it. No doubt Van would strongly object, to say the least. Gary --- ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:04:59 PM PST US From: "Steve J Hurlbut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn washers --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" Exactly the same for me. Larger bolt and more washers are required. Do what works. Steve RV7A panel ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff Evans" Subject: RV-List: Elevator horn washers > --> RV-List message posted by: "Geoff Evans" > > I just finished mounting my elevators today, and I have a question about the AN4 bolt through the elevator horns. > > First, the drawing shows a -14A bolt here, but that's just a smidge too short. I'll have to use a -15A bolt to have any threads at > all sticking out of the nut. Did anyone else encounter this problem? (The preview plans drawing shows a -12A bolt, so maybe Van's > doesn't really know what length it's actually supposed to be.) > > Second, the drawing also says to use a *maximum* of 3 AN960 washers on each side of the VA-146 bearing. In order to fill the gaps > and keep the bolt from pulling the horns together (and keep the elevator travel as smooth as it is without torquing the nut), I > have to use 4 washers on one side (3 AN960s and 1 AN960L thin washer). Does anyone know why the drawing says to use a maximum of 3 > washers per side? I'd much rather put in whatever is required in order to fill the gap and keep the elevator travel smooth. > > Thanks. > -Geoff Evans > RV-8 QB -- moving on to the wings > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:21 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horn washers --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 12/21/2002 4:26:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, gwevans@attbi.com writes: > the drawing also says to use a *maximum* of 3 AN960 washers on each side of > the VA-146 bearing. In order to fill the gaps > and keep the bolt from pulling the horns together (and keep the elevator > travel as smooth as it is without torquing the nut), I > have to use 4 washers on one side (3 AN960s and 1 AN960L thin washer). Does > anyone know why the drawing says to use a maximum of 3 > washers per side? AN bolts (heck, all bolts) are designed to be used in shear, not in bending. The washers will just rack with the bolt bending if you overload this joint. The farther you get from a pure shear application the less predictable is their performance. When the engineers at Van's took a vote, the consensus likely came out to be three per side as their comfort zone, but it's just a WAG. If you really wanted to do better, you would use a single spacer of the appropriate length (,250") each side. -GV (RV-6A N1GV 575hrs)