Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:06 AM - Re: stripped prop hub threads (Bill Irvine)
2. 04:59 AM - Re: Multi-pin wire connectors (Michael J. Veth)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: need help engine failure-forced landing in St. Louis (Rick Galati)
4. 08:38 AM - Re: First flights in Tampa (Ollie Washburn)
5. 09:06 AM - Re: First flights in Tampa (Charles Rowbotham)
6. 09:18 AM - rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. (lucky macy)
7. 09:41 AM - Wiring Harness Connectors (Norman)
8. 10:03 AM - Garmin GNS 430-Navaid interface (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
9. 10:16 AM - Re: Rv8 wing conduit routing---and wiring connectors (Elsa & Henry)
10. 10:33 AM - DC Allen gyro problem update2 (REALILY@aol.com)
11. 11:11 AM - Re: Rv8 wing conduit routing---and wiring connectors (Jim Oke)
12. 11:43 AM - Wingtip HID lights for LESS (Donald Mei)
13. 12:04 PM - Re: Wingtip HID lights for LESS (Bob Hassel)
14. 12:21 PM - Using 5/8 wave radio antenna vs 1/4 wave... (Al Karpinski)
15. 12:29 PM - [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
16. 12:30 PM - Re: Wingtip HID lights for LESS (Jerry Springer)
17. 01:08 PM - Re: [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Jerry Springer)
18. 01:29 PM - Re: Using 5/8 wave radio antenna vs 1/4 wave... (David Lundquist)
19. 02:06 PM - Re: 1 1/2" Beauty Ring (Norman)
20. 03:12 PM - Re: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. (Dan Reeves)
21. 03:16 PM - Re: Wing root fairings...in finish kit?---when to drill? (Elsa & Henry)
22. 03:17 PM - RV8A kit past quickbuilt stage for sale or trade ... (Scott Johnson)
23. 03:46 PM - Re: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. (Dan Checkoway)
24. 03:53 PM - Re: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. (lucky macy)
25. 05:02 PM - Tucson Builders (Dick DeCramer)
26. 06:25 PM - Re: [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! Tip-up canopy stiffener. (Elsa & Henry)
27. 09:18 PM - Just another day in RV-paradise... (Ken Cantrell)
28. 10:21 PM - Random (engine??) "POP" noise ... HELP request (James E. Clark)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: stripped prop hub threads |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Irvine <wgirvine@yahoo.com>
> RV-List message posted by: "Ted Lumpkin"
> I have a used Hartzell constant speed prop I am
> getting ready to install on my RV-4. As I went to
> install the front spinner bulkhead, I noticed
> that one of the holes has stripped threads.
> Does anyone have an idea of an acceptable repair for
> this problem?
Ted,
you have one, and only one, option. Call Hartzell
customer service and tell them your problem. They
know their product better than anyone else.
I suspect that because the prop mounting bolts are the
most highly stressed parts on an airplane, Hartzell's
answer will not make you happy.
Bill Irvine
Lancaster, CA
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Multi-pin wire connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael J. Veth" <vethm@vsrtechnology.com>
Steve,
Mouser has a decent selection of the AMP series 4 circular connectors.
Expensive but nice. Here's a link.
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=productsearch._listproductsearch&searchtype=starts+with&criteria=571-2074862&searchby=PartNumber
Mike Veth
RV-8A Wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Steve J Hurlbut wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve J Hurlbut" <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
>
> The search continues.
>
> I looked at the Newark Electronics website and every electronics catalog I
> have along with RC
> catalogs but can't seem to find a good wire connector. I would like to have
> a quick disconnect
> for each wing to fuselage wire assembly as well and for the control columns.
> I initially wanted
> to use 9 pin connectors but can only seem to find the males ones.
>
> Can someone give me a place and part number for a good quick disconnect for
> these wires?
>
> Thank you
> Steve
> RV7A
> wiring, wiring, more wiring
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | re: need help engine failure-forced landing in St. Louis |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
Thought the list might find this update interesting. I posted the
open letter from Tim's mother on our Chapter 32 website, but unfortunately,
I was not personally able to attend the rescue mission of his RV-6A.
Rick Galati
- RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" timrv6a@earthlink.net
I'm Tim Lewis's mother. He requested I send this e-mail because his engine
failed and he was forced to make an emergency landing in a corn field
southeast of the Scott Air Force/Mid America Airport in the St. Louis area. Group
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Messages Help Message 863 of 870 | Previous | Next [ Up Thread ] Message
Index Msg # From: "Ashby" bluediamond42@c...
Subject: Re: [eaa32] Downed Flyer
Jim,
Here's hoping that I have gotten part of this right. If not, then some of
the other members of the "rescue team" can correct me or fill in the blanks.
When you do your write-up, here is the beginning:
Tim Lewis (USAF), his wife and 4-year-old son were flying (IFR?) on Christmas Eve
in his RV6A from Washington, D.C., to spend Christmas with his parents who
live at Marshfield, Missouri, near Springfield.
Tim told me that he had been cleared to land at Scott AFB (Mid-America?).
Snow had been packing in his intake filter, and he had no alternate air source
since the RV did not have one in the design. He says that his next priority
is to change the design and have one. His engine quit or was quitting. He said
that he broke out of the clouds at 200 ft with some high-tension wires in
front of him, but plenty of snow-covered field past that. He did a great job
of landing the RV with only some minor damage to the wheel pants probably caused
by the mud and snow. Tim and his family were met by some volunteer firemen
from Mascoutah and taken to Scott Inn where they spent the night.
He put out an email to an RV group in Washington. I don't know how Rick or
someone got the message to our eaa32 group list, but it was there with an email
address and a phone number to call. I called Christmas night, but he had
checked out. I then emailed his mother and Tim called me back asking for help.
He said the FAA had advised him not to take off from the field because of a
possible prop strike on the plowed ground. I put out the call for eaa32 volunteers.
Tim and his father came back for the plane and brought a trailer, but the
weather had warmed up and the field was too soft to haul the plane on the trailer.
Our crew joined them at 10 AM this morning in making a plywood sled to load
the plane on. A local tractor retailer volunteered to bring a tractor to pull
the sled and plane about 1/4 mile across the field to a highway where Tim could
take off. (What a tractor! This thing could have pulled three houses behind
it without a sled!)
Thanks to our building expertise, :-) , the pull went without a problem.
The firemen blocked the west end of the highway for us, while Tim's father blocked
the east end about 1/2 mile away.
After a warm-up and run-up, at about 2 PM, Tim took off, looking like the
excellent pilot that he is. He headed for a local airport, while we gathered
the sled and wood and loaded them on his father's trailer.
The eaa32 crew then met at a local resturant and relaxed with coffee and food,
feeling great that all had went well, and knowing we had made some new friends.
Ed Ashby
----- Original Message -----
Downed Flyer asks for help
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 19:48:20 -0600
To those waiting for further info:
Just got a call from Tim Lewis. He is spending the night at Scott (AFB)
Inn. The trailer idea will not work.
He is getting some boards and plywood to make a sled, and has hopes
of getting a tractor to pull the sled about 1/4 mile to a road. His father
is with him, but is unable to help with much physical labor.
He needs all the help he can get to get the plane on the sled. His
EW is about 1163 not counting fuel.
He hopes that we can arrive about 10AM or shortly after that.
Here are the directions he gave me: ( Someone might know a better way
to get there.)
I-64 East to exit 19 to 158 West (now going South) to 161 East goint to
Mascoutah, then 4 South,
Turn left (East) on 177 and left on August which is the 4th Street. There
is a used car place at 177 and August. At the end of August walk through
the yard of the last house on the Right, past the junk yard into field.
If anyone wants to go help, maybe some of us can car-pool or go as a
caravan. I can be at Kilroys at 8 if anyone wants me to, or I will just
leave my house and drive over there if I get no response.
Anyway, sounds like this fellow EAA pilot needs some big muscle work,
so maybe several of us with smaller muscles can help.
Feedback on this will be appreciated.
Thanks, Ed Ashby
Rick, you can be a volunteer Saturday if available.
Any EAA 32, ARC worker, or Any others we can find may be needed.
Please spread the word on this.
Tim called me today. His RV6A is still in the field.
They are bringing a truck and goose-neck trailer over tomorrow, but we
may have to actually pick the plane up and carry it or drag it across the
field.
The FAA advised him that the ruts were too deep for take-off
without a possible prop-strike.
I have the contact numbers for him.
As soon as I get more info, I will post it on the list.
Ed Ashby
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Galati rick07x@earthlink.net
To: eaa32@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2002 4:35 PM
Subject: [eaa32] Re: Fw: Flyer help
Ed,
Tim Lewis here... Thanks so much for contacting my mom and for
calling the
Inn. We'd just left to drive to Springfield with my mother.
The plane is functional. I got it running this afternoon. It
turns out
the
problem that brought us down was snow/ice clogging the engine
(carbeurator)
air filter. (I've worked with my favorite IA to be sure the
diagnosis is
correct... I'm confident we understand the cause of the forced
landing)
The
RV's use a carb heat system that is in front of the air filter.
It didn't
have enough heat to melt the snow/ice that was starving my engine
of air,
and
it doesn't provide an alternate air path if the filter is
blocked. I'm
going
to change that design (alternate air) when I get home.
Getting it
out
on a flat bed poses lots of problems. The flat bed opeator is not
confident
he can get the truck off the field, and his path off the field
isn't wide
enough to remove the plane with the wings on.
So, my current plan is for my dad and I to take his four wheel
drive
pickup to
St Louis tomorrow morning and pack the snow down to make a
runway. The
field
is very long (a mile, at least), and remarkably smooth.
I think we'll be able to handle the work, but I'll take your
phone number
in
case we need to call for reinforcements.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
Privacy Policy - Terms of Service - Guidelines - Help
He is requesting help from any RVers in the St. Louis area that could help
arrange for moving the airplane (flatbed or other means) and/or locating a
hanger at Scott/Mid America (BLV) or Shafer Airport (3K6)where he could work
on the plane. Use of the hanger would be short term; just until he can find
the cause of the engine failure and fix it.
Tim can be contacted at the Scott Inn at Scott Air Force Base - phone #
618-744-1200 and ask for Tim Lewis. ****Do NOT REPLY to this message. Tim
does not have e-mail access.****
You may e-mail me at ard863s@smsu.edu. I will check my e-mail before 8 am
Wednesday, then after late Wednesday evening when I return home with Tim's
wife and son. Carol Lewis
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: First flights in Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <skybolt-aviator@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Norman
Subject: RV-List: First flights in Tampa
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
After 7.5 years, Slow-build (non-punched) RV-6A kit 24255 flew today.
N555JN flew perfectly. Put a total of 4.2 hours on her today.
Congratulations Jim and welcome to the fleet.
Ollie 6A-------Loves Landing
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: First flights in Tampa |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Jim,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@intermapsystems.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: First flights in Tampa
>Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 14:45:57 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Norman" <jnorman@InterMapSystems.com>
>
>After 7.5 years, Slow-build (non-punched) RV-6A kit 24255 flew today.
>
>N555JN flew perfectly. Put a total of 4.2 hours on her today.
>
>What could be better??... how about this... My hangar mate Don Hughes just
>flew off his 25 hours yesterday so he flew chase. He also carried his first
>passenger... my wife. AND... it was my wife's first ride in an RV.
>
>After we landed, we all three had a big grin!
>
>N555JN "Razzmataz" is:
>RV-6A
>IO-360
>CS Hartzell
>Highly modified Sam James Cowl, carbon fiber plenum, etc, etc, etc.
>Full IFR UPS stack in custom fiberglass panel
>Slaved autopilot
>IK-2000 engine monitor system
>AOA
>Sony Stereo
>Full Leather
>Custom Sikkens "glamour color" paint with House of Colors pearl trim.
>etc.
>etc.
>
>What a blast!
>
>jim
>Tampa
>
>
http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_advancedjmf_3mf
Message 6
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"rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
On the wing's rear spar (707A), where each main rib intersects the spar's bottom
flange for one rivet hole, while the ribs/spars are still only cleco'd together,
are we supposed to match drill and dimple the flange and rib hole before
riveting the ribs to the back and front of each rib to the spars?
Or are we supposed to countersink the rear flange only and leave the rib?
I can't find a detailed drawing for this area. If anyone knows what I'm referring
to, please clue me in to the drawing.
lucky
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wiring Harness Connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
These look promissing as a waterproof connector:
http://www.amp.com/prodnews.asp?ID361
Here is a page that starts a search for many other types of connectors:
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/bin/TE.Menu?MMENU&ID14073&LG1&I13
To see pictures you have to constantly look for a tab that says "product detail"
or "product photo".
There are many types of water proof and water resitant connectors that would be
much better in the wing root than a Molex connector. The Molex connectors that
I have are wide open to letting in water. I feel this would be asking for trouble
in the wing root area.
The brand "Tyco Electronics" is available from this rather large company:
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handlerhome
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 8
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| Subject: | Garmin GNS 430-Navaid interface |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List,
I just installed my Radio Stack to finish the panel up (Temporarily burnt
out on fiberglass work) and have hopefully a "Has been there ...Done that"
type question.
Coming out of my Navaid are two wires: 1) Left wire 2) Right wire used
for Tracking information from my Garmin GNS 430. Stark Avionics did a great job
Pre-Wiring my Radio Stack but I forgot to mention the needed Navaid hook up!
Can someone who has done this contact me off line with a phone number.....or
Email the correct wiring diagram?
Stark is closed for the Holidays!! I have the wiring diagrams for the
UPS SL-30 and the Garmin-327 but Stark didn't send the diagram for the GNS-430.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tom in Ohio
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rv8 wing conduit routing---and wiring connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi Norman and other Listers on the subject,
I don't know how the RV8 wing differs from the -6 wing, but I used a 5/8"
o.d. PVC tube to run the wing wiring through. I certainly did not like the
way Van's shows the routing in the manual photos, (in my old manual, vintage
1995), with the wires close to rivet heads, rib bolts, etc, potential
chafers. So I drilled 5/8" dia. holes through all the main ribs, (centered
between adjacent skin rivet holes), between the front and second lightening
holes of the rib's webs. They are located about 1" up from the bottom skins.
This positions the conduit just aft of the joggle in the skin for the
aileron bell-crank access panel. If later I want to install a heated
pitot-tube, the wire can easily be added to the conduit.
Regarding wing wiring, I can't imagine why any one would want to add
connectors to it! How many times are you going to remove and replace the
fully wired wings??? Every connector pin adds 3 more joints to the wiring!
Being an ex spacecraft chap, we avoided connectors like the plague! Just
another source of un-reliability! With the wiring conduit placed where I
have it, it penetrates the fuselage skin behind the aileron push-rods,out of
the way, and the seat skins have matching holes for sections of the same
conduit between them. Splicing of the left and right wing wiring for landing
and navigation lights and the supplies from the panel are done under the
sloping part of the seat skins between the innermost rib and the next
outboard rib. Also, as I have my Whelen 3 strobe power supply under the seat
skins, the shielded cables are run right through from the wings and tail and
spliced to the Whelen connector pig-tails in the space between adjacent ribs
on the opposite side of center to where the other splices are. The cable
shields are spliced together and grounded to the power supply at a single
point. No detected noise from any of that wiring!
I don't like butt-splices, (can't inspect the crimp!), so I use cap-splices
with their skirt trimmed off. The wires are twisted together and soldered,
the cap lightly crimped-on and shrink-tubing applied over the cap and wires
going into it. Works great, and my Final Inspector loved the method I used.
Cheers!!------Happy New Year!!-------Henry Hore
Message 10
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| Subject: | DC Allen gyro problem update2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: REALILY@aol.com
to RV listers
As a follow up to my last update regarding my problems with
my DC Allen attitude Gyro, I believe that I had two problems, first, my unit
was on the shelf too long and the bearings had to be replaced. second, since
the unit was not for an 8 degree panel was another problem, but because they
shipped my the wrong unit, they agreed to modify it to an 8 degree unit and
overhaul it at no charge. Jerry Springer is correct, the 8 degree unit was
only part of the problems.
Happy new year to everyone
Real Dupuis
Orlando fl.
RV-6A N335RL flying
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rv8 wing conduit routing---and wiring connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I would second all of Henry's comments below and add a few more.
- I used flexible polyethylene tubing about 3/8" dia in my wing (RV-6)
positioned about as Henry suggests. This stuff is very light, inexpensive,
and the flexibility helps when putting it in place. It is nice and
"slippery" so feeding the wires through is easy. I drilled holes in the ribs
that were a snug fit for the tube - its not going anywhere and there was no
need for proseal or whatever to hold it in place. Think ahead to the number
and size of conductors you will want to have and size the tubing
accordingly.
- When the wings are installed there is not much room between the root rib
and fuselage side so do some measurements and try and have the wiring
entrance to the fuselage line up with the exit from the wing. Avoids
joggles and extra bends in the wiring.
- Inside the fuselage, I used a few more feet of the same tube to pass the
wire through the seat ribs. Good support, no need for grommets, etc. Note:
It is much easier to drill the holes in the seat ribs before assembly and
not afterwards!
- An even better alternative might be to leave the tubing in the wings an
extra three feet long and feed it directly into the fuselage seta ribs when
putting the wings on. A bit of extra work when putting the wings on but
provides a ideal path for the wiring from whatever terminal block
arrangement you use all the way to the wingtips.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rv8 wing conduit routing---and wiring connectors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> Hi Norman and other Listers on the subject,
> I don't know how the RV8 wing differs from the -6 wing, but I used a 5/8"
> o.d. PVC tube to run the wing wiring through. I certainly did not like the
> way Van's shows the routing in the manual photos, (in my old manual,
vintage
> 1995), with the wires close to rivet heads, rib bolts, etc, potential
> chafers. So I drilled 5/8" dia. holes through all the main ribs, (centered
> between adjacent skin rivet holes), between the front and second
lightening
> holes of the rib's webs. They are located about 1" up from the bottom
skins.
> This positions the conduit just aft of the joggle in the skin for the
> aileron bell-crank access panel. If later I want to install a heated
> pitot-tube, the wire can easily be added to the conduit.
>
> Regarding wing wiring, I can't imagine why any one would want to add
> connectors to it! How many times are you going to remove and replace the
> fully wired wings??? Every connector pin adds 3 more joints to the wiring!
> Being an ex spacecraft chap, we avoided connectors like the plague! Just
> another source of un-reliability! With the wiring conduit placed where I
> have it, it penetrates the fuselage skin behind the aileron push-rods,out
of
> the way, and the seat skins have matching holes for sections of the same
> conduit between them. Splicing of the left and right wing wiring for
landing
> and navigation lights and the supplies from the panel are done under the
> sloping part of the seat skins between the innermost rib and the next
> outboard rib. Also, as I have my Whelen 3 strobe power supply under the
seat
> skins, the shielded cables are run right through from the wings and tail
and
> spliced to the Whelen connector pig-tails in the space between adjacent
ribs
> on the opposite side of center to where the other splices are. The cable
> shields are spliced together and grounded to the power supply at a single
> point. No detected noise from any of that wiring!
>
> I don't like butt-splices, (can't inspect the crimp!), so I use
cap-splices
> with their skirt trimmed off. The wires are twisted together and soldered,
> the cap lightly crimped-on and shrink-tubing applied over the cap and
wires
> going into it. Works great, and my Final Inspector loved the method I
used.
>
> Cheers!!------Happy New Year!!-------Henry Hore
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Wingtip HID lights for LESS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Listers, do you crave HID lighting? I do. I understand that it can't be
"wig wagged". But if you want it listen up. This will be short on details
because I'm trying to get out to go flying, but will post more later.
A good friend of mine has a Cherokee 140. He wanted to upgrade his landing
lights, so he purchased a set of RMD hornier wing tips with standard Par
type landing lights. About the same time, he purchased a set of HID driving
lights from JC whitney for his car. When he was looking at them, he
realized, hey they might fit in the RMD tips. Well, when he split the
clamshell case of the lights and put one half on the front opening of the
hole in the wingtip intended for the Par type lights, and put the back part
of the case on the other side of the fiberglass bulkhead, they fit
perfectly. When he screwed the two halves together, they were securely
fastened to the wing tips with no modifications to the tips.
Curious he called J.C. Whitney and got the name of the manufacturer of the
lights. He contacted them and they said that there was no reason they
wouldn't work in an airplane. Then the guy said, oh wait, I think we sell
lights to a guy, . . wait, I think his name is Lopresti or something like
that??!!!!
So here is the idea $499 for a set of 2 from J.C. Whitney. I bet RMD would
sell you the rv tip light kit for less without the lights and all the
hardware. So, somewhere around $800 for 2 HID wingtip lights.
This is going long and I want to fly now, but will research part numbers,
etc if anyone is interested. Oh yeah, my friend is a radio guy, his
business is integrating and installing radios in public safety vehicles. He
did his normal testing and found no noise issues.
He eventuallygot it all approved on a 337 form and the plane is probablythe
only Cherokee (a 140 none the less) with Dual HIDs. Granted, no wig wag,
but You can see him coming from 20 miles out. Very cool.
By the way, he has experienced the RV magic and is eagerly awaiting the '10.
Don Mei
We tested them on the ground and the difference was MIND BOGGLING. At least
5 times brighter than the Par type landing light and at 30 Watts a side.
Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
security
Norman Vincent Peale
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 3 months FREE*.
http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_stopmorespam_3mf
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Wingtip HID lights for LESS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
I'd like to know more!
DNA
Bob Hassel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Donald Mei
Subject: RV-List: Wingtip HID lights for LESS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Listers, do you crave HID lighting? I do. I understand that it can't be
"wig wagged". But if you want it listen up. This will be short on details
because I'm trying to get out to go flying, but will post more later.
A good friend of mine has a Cherokee 140. He wanted to upgrade his landing
lights, so he purchased a set of RMD hornier wing tips with standard Par
type landing lights. About the same time, he purchased a set of HID driving
lights from JC whitney for his car. When he was looking at them, he
realized, hey they might fit in the RMD tips. Well, when he split the
clamshell case of the lights and put one half on the front opening of the
hole in the wingtip intended for the Par type lights, and put the back part
of the case on the other side of the fiberglass bulkhead, they fit
perfectly. When he screwed the two halves together, they were securely
fastened to the wing tips with no modifications to the tips.
Curious he called J.C. Whitney and got the name of the manufacturer of the
lights. He contacted them and they said that there was no reason they
wouldn't work in an airplane. Then the guy said, oh wait, I think we sell
lights to a guy, . . wait, I think his name is Lopresti or something like
that??!!!!
So here is the idea $499 for a set of 2 from J.C. Whitney. I bet RMD would
sell you the rv tip light kit for less without the lights and all the
hardware. So, somewhere around $800 for 2 HID wingtip lights.
This is going long and I want to fly now, but will research part numbers,
etc if anyone is interested. Oh yeah, my friend is a radio guy, his
business is integrating and installing radios in public safety vehicles. He
did his normal testing and found no noise issues.
He eventuallygot it all approved on a 337 form and the plane is probablythe
only Cherokee (a 140 none the less) with Dual HIDs. Granted, no wig wag,
but You can see him coming from 20 miles out. Very cool.
By the way, he has experienced the RV magic and is eagerly awaiting the '10.
Don Mei
We tested them on the ground and the difference was MIND BOGGLING. At least
5 times brighter than the Par type landing light and at 30 Watts a side.
Americans used to roar like lions for liberty: Now they bleat like sheep for
security
Norman Vincent Peale
STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 3 months FREE*.
http://www.hotmail.msn.com/cgi-bin/getmsg&HL=1216hotmailtaglines_stopmorespa
m_3mf
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Using 5/8 wave radio antenna vs 1/4 wave... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Karpinski" <karpinski@baldcom.net>
First..
All this talk of wiring in the wings has been very timly and helpful..
Given a RV8-QB wings and fuss arrived 12/23 !! Nice !
***************************
Here is my inputs...
I ran the three wire shielded strobe thru the standard plastic grommeted
locations..
And than ran two thin wall 3/8 ID tygon tubing thru the little opening
right between the main spar and the ribs.. Nice tight fit for the tubing..
and real nice to slide wires thru..... !! keeping everything away from the
strobe lines too... Just in case...
One of the 3/8"ID's .. I use #14 for the Nav lights..With room for 2 or 4
more wires)
The other 3/8" ID tygon tube I ran the a RG-58 antenna wire...
Speaking of antenna's... :?
******************************************
I have given the archives a look.. but see nothing on the subject of 5/8
Wave antenna's ?
Looks like everyone who uses wing tip antennas use the 1/4 Wave design
..about 22" long
Anyone out there fab a 5/8 wave antenna for the wing tips.. ??
My rusty calculations... from my ham radio days... show a 5/8 bottom loaded
antenna would be about 69" long..( 127mhz) Which would just fit inside
the fiberglass tips.. :>! Would have the shape of an "L".. and have some
gain .. but might be even more plagged by the "Shadow" effects of the
wings...
Anyone ever try fabing a 5/8 wave ? or know why I should not give it a
try.. ??
****************************
Al Karpinski
RV8QB
Central NY !
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: RV6-A Tip-up Canopy Stiffener
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.12.29.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures@matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wingtip HID lights for LESS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Bob Hassel wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
>
> I'd like to know more!
> DNA
>
> Bob Hassel
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Donald Mei
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wingtip HID lights for LESS
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers, do you crave HID lighting? I do. I understand that it can't be
> "wig wagged". But if you want it listen up. This will be short on details
> because I'm trying to get out to go flying, but will post more later.
>
> A good friend of mine has a Cherokee 140. He wanted to upgrade his landing
> lights, so he purchased a set of RMD hornier wing tips with standard Par
> type landing lights. About the same time, he purchased a set of HID driving
> lights from JC whitney for his car. When he was looking at them, he
> realized, hey they might fit in the RMD tips. Well, when he split the
> clamshell case of the lights and put one half on the front opening of the
> hole in the wingtip intended for the Par type lights, and put the back part
> of the case on the other side of the fiberglass bulkhead, they fit
> perfectly. When he screwed the two halves together, they were securely
> fastened to the wing tips with no modifications to the tips.
>
> Curious he called J.C. Whitney and got the name of the manufacturer of the
> lights. He contacted them and they said that there was no reason they
> wouldn't work in an airplane. Then the guy said, oh wait, I think we sell
> lights to a guy, . . wait, I think his name is Lopresti or something like
> that??!!!!
>
> So here is the idea $499 for a set of 2 from J.C. Whitney. I bet RMD would
> sell you the rv tip light kit for less without the lights and all the
> hardware. So, somewhere around $800 for 2 HID wingtip lights.
>
> This is going long and I want to fly now, but will research part numbers,
> etc if anyone is interested. Oh yeah, my friend is a radio guy, his
> business is integrating and installing radios in public safety vehicles. He
> did his normal testing and found no noise issues.
>
> He eventuallygot it all approved on a 337 form and the plane is probablythe
> only Cherokee (a 140 none the less) with Dual HIDs. Granted, no wig wag,
> but You can see him coming from 20 miles out. Very cool.
>
> By the way, he has experienced the RV magic and is eagerly awaiting the '10.
>
> Don Mei
>
>
> We tested them on the ground and the difference was MIND BOGGLING. At least
> 5 times brighter than the Par type landing light and at 30 Watts a side.
>
>
I guess I cannot understand why anyone would want to spend that kind of money on
lights. I would much rather buy a Garmin 196 GPS for that amount of money.
When I built my RV-6 in 1989 I bought a landing light kit from Bob Olds who
is on this list and used to make landing light kits. I don't remember how much
they
were but they were less than $200.00. Each side has a 100 watt halogen bulb with
high and low beam. They light up the runway at night like a highway. In 14 years
of
flying and over 1000 hours I have not had to replace a bulb yet. Each to their
own I
guess but that seems ridiculous to me to spend that kind of money on landing lights.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Email List Photo Shares wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
>
> Subject: RV6-A Tip-up Canopy Stiffener
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.12.29.2002/index.html
>
>
Henry that looks like a good way to stiffen your canopy frame. While looking at
your
pictures I noticed your gas struts, I think that you would find that they well
work
much better if you turn them end for end and have the barrel part of the strut
on the
top. IMO
Jerry
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Using 5/8 wave radio antenna vs 1/4 wave... |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Lundquist <lundquist@ieee.org>
Al,
I'm not necessarily the expert here, but that's never stopped me before...
A 5/8 wave antenna produces gain perpendicular to the antenna and lower
radiated power perpendicular to the antenna. Just the thing you want for
ham 2m mobile. In an airplane it might help if you it were pointed straight
up or down, but clearly inside the tips it won't be. Oriented horizontally
it will be a wash. You'll get better reception to the sides and worse front
and back.
Dave Lundquist
RV-6 wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Karpinski" <karpinski@baldcom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Using 5/8 wave radio antenna vs 1/4 wave...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Al Karpinski" <karpinski@baldcom.net>
>
>
> First..
>
> All this talk of wiring in the wings has been very timly and helpful..
>
> Given a RV8-QB wings and fuss arrived 12/23 !! Nice !
>
> ***************************
>
> Here is my inputs...
>
> I ran the three wire shielded strobe thru the standard plastic grommeted
> locations..
>
> And than ran two thin wall 3/8 ID tygon tubing thru the little opening
> right between the main spar and the ribs.. Nice tight fit for the tubing..
> and real nice to slide wires thru..... !! keeping everything away from
the
> strobe lines too... Just in case...
>
> One of the 3/8"ID's .. I use #14 for the Nav lights..With room for 2 or
4
> more wires)
>
> The other 3/8" ID tygon tube I ran the a RG-58 antenna wire...
>
> Speaking of antenna's... :?
>
> ******************************************
>
> I have given the archives a look.. but see nothing on the subject of
5/8
> Wave antenna's ?
>
> Looks like everyone who uses wing tip antennas use the 1/4 Wave design
> ..about 22" long
>
> Anyone out there fab a 5/8 wave antenna for the wing tips.. ??
>
> My rusty calculations... from my ham radio days... show a 5/8 bottom
loaded
> antenna would be about 69" long..( 127mhz) Which would just fit inside
> the fiberglass tips.. :>! Would have the shape of an "L".. and have
some
> gain .. but might be even more plagged by the "Shadow" effects of the
> wings...
>
> Anyone ever try fabing a 5/8 wave ? or know why I should not give it a
> try.. ??
>
> ****************************
>
>
> Al Karpinski
> RV8QB
> Central NY !
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: 1 1/2" Beauty Ring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> Alternatively you could, if you don't mind plastic, go to a hardware
> store and look for cable holes for desks, they come in various diameters.
>
> they are normally used for routing computer cables etc. through desktops.
Thanks all. I went to Home Depot and scored a couple of shower drains. I'll
cut them down to just the rings and paint them black. They should do just
fine.
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Reeves <reevesfamily@comcast.net>
I had the same question and ended up match drilling, deburring, and dimpling
these holes prior to riveting the rear spar to the main ribs.
Dan Reeves
7A - Riveting Left Top Main Skins
N516DR reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: RV-List: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question.
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
On the wing's rear spar (707A), where each main rib intersects the spar's
bottom flange for one rivet hole, while the ribs/spars are still only
cleco'd together, are we supposed to match drill and dimple the flange and
rib hole before riveting the ribs to the back and front of each rib to the
spars?
Or are we supposed to countersink the rear flange only and leave the rib?
I can't find a detailed drawing for this area. If anyone knows what I'm
referring to, please clue me in to the drawing.
lucky
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing root fairings...in finish kit?---when to drill? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi Dan, Listers,
Saw postings on subject and thought I would add my 2 Bits worth (RV6, 6A):
To start with, the WRF's are in the finish kit and you'll find that they are
basically trimmed but not a usable fit as supplied.(Not mine anyway). So
you'll have to trim them to follow your particular fuselage contour. But
FIRST, you have to have the wings installed and rigged so there is no
forward or rearward sweep, perfectly perpendicular to the direction of
forward flight and the angle of incidence set correctly! then when you are
satisfied with all of the above, drill that pesky 5/16" hole for the rear
spar attach-bolt! THEN and only then is the time to drill the WRF's,
otherwise the gap between the trimmed WRF and the fuselage side will not be
correct if you vary the rig of the wing later.
I had a perplexing experience trying to set the wing's sweep. I could not
get the darned things in to prevent a forward sweep of 1/4'' (tip to root),
both wings the same! After much heaving and coaxing to get it right and not
succeeding, I found the problem: The forward tang of the rear spar attach
clevis (F605-B) was butting against the flange of the root rib (W610) where
it is riveted to wing's rear spar. Had to remove both wings and trim-off
1/16" of that tang to allow proper insertion of the wings with zero
sweep--both sides!
A good trick to drill the WRF attach holes in the right place is to mark
some lines 1" apart on the wing skin, measured from the center of the flange
where the plate-nuts will go.Then the WRF can be laid in place and
back-measured from the nearest visible line. The WRF should be trimmed so
that the initial gap will not be greater than 3/16", as I found THAT is the
best gap to have so that the "h" shaped weather-strip supplied in the kit
makes a nice fit. Once all the holes have been drilled (#30) and the WRF
clecoed in place, it's easy to scribe the final trimline using a 3/16"
spacer.
Cheers!! ---Henry Hore
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | RV8A kit past quickbuilt stage for sale or trade ... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Johnson" <scottjohnson345@attbi.com>
I have an RV8A past the quickbuilt stage available for sale or trade.
I have the complete kit as sold by Vans.
It is my second RV, the first one has been flying a number of years.
Beautiful craftsmanship ...
I am asking $16,500.
or
Would consider trade for:
1.) Newer Harley
2.) Challenger ultralight kit ...
Pictures of this plane can be seen at:
http://www.geocities.com/dan_s_johnson/RV8A/index.html
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Don't forget to trim the inboard ends of the rear wing spars now when it's
convenient. It's really no big deal to trim them after the wings are
complete (just did that the other day:
http://www.rvproject.com/20021227.html), but you may as well make it easier
on yourself and do it now on the bench.
If you don't have the fuselage drawing that outlines the trim dimensions,
let me know and I'll take a digital photo.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (fuselage)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Reeves" <reevesfamily@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan Reeves <reevesfamily@comcast.net>
>
> I had the same question and ended up match drilling, deburring, and
dimpling
> these holes prior to riveting the rear spar to the main ribs.
>
> Dan Reeves
> 7A - Riveting Left Top Main Skins
> N516DR reserved
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
> To: rv8list rv8list; rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> On the wing's rear spar (707A), where each main rib intersects the spar's
> bottom flange for one rivet hole, while the ribs/spars are still only
> cleco'd together, are we supposed to match drill and dimple the flange and
> rib hole before riveting the ribs to the back and front of each rib to the
> spars?
>
> Or are we supposed to countersink the rear flange only and leave the rib?
>
> I can't find a detailed drawing for this area. If anyone knows what I'm
> referring to, please clue me in to the drawing.
>
> lucky
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
me too :-)
do not archive
lucky
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Reeves" <reevesfamily@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan Reeves <reevesfamily@comcast.net>
>
> I had the same question and ended up match drilling, deburring, and
dimpling
> these holes prior to riveting the rear spar to the main ribs.
>
> Dan Reeves
> 7A - Riveting Left Top Main Skins
> N516DR reserved
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
> To: rv8list rv8list; rv-list
> Subject: RV-List: rear spar flange and rib dimple/countersink question.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> On the wing's rear spar (707A), where each main rib intersects the spar's
> bottom flange for one rivet hole, while the ribs/spars are still only
> cleco'd together, are we supposed to match drill and dimple the flange and
> rib hole before riveting the ribs to the back and front of each rib to the
> spars?
>
> Or are we supposed to countersink the rear flange only and leave the rib?
>
> I can't find a detailed drawing for this area. If anyone knows what I'm
> referring to, please clue me in to the drawing.
>
> lucky
>
>
Message 25
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
We are going to "snowbird" in Tucson AZ at "Voyager's RV Park" (motorhome type
RV's) south of DM AFB from Jan. 10th to Feb 10th. Would like to contact some
local area builders for a short visit. Please contact me off list.
Dick DeCramer
Northfield, MN
RV6 Slider
FAB airbox/ baffles
DO NOT Archive
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! Tip-up |
canopy stiffener.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Thanks, Jerry, I'll try it in the Spring when I awake from my "hibernation"
(Too cold to go out to my unheated hangar now, in CYCC, Cornwall, Ontario.
Actually, when I got the gas struts from Van's way back when, there was a
photo included in the kit which shows a woman working on seat cushions, with
pictures of their installation showing the struts installed as I did. The
instructions that came with the kit concluded with the writer (referring to
the fiberglass fill in the frame channel) saying "---he wished he could
reinforce the frame with metal but hadn't figured out how---" Having seen
some rather untidy work here on other RV's, I took the challenge and made
what is in the photo. I used .025 aluminum gleaned from the rear window
cut-out. When I clecoed the three pieces to the drilled frame parts and
tried the mod. on the fuselage it really stiffened-up the frame, but I
noticed some differential bowing between the side plates and the center
plate at the gaps where the "J" hinge hooks go. So I put those caps over
them which really made everything much stiffer.Worked great! I promptly sent
photos and descriptions to Van's (Tom Green) in march 1998, of what I had
done, but never got any acknowledgement. (fair enough, I suppose when you
consider all the mail they must get)
But I was rather P----d off when I received the third issue of the 2001
RVator (pg 13) showing off what I had reported to Van's 3 years earlier! In
a subsequent discussion with Tom, he said that their mod really didn't work
well but they were being pestered by would-be buyers of the kit, so decided
to sell it anyway!-- I discussed with him the reasons why their mod probably
didn't work well,---lightening holes, no caps over "J" hinges,etc.and that
is where I left it!
Now I read postings of users of the mod and seem to be happy with it. I
would like to find out details of the skins that are used, purely from an
interest point of view, to see what is different from the photo in the
RVator which according to Tom did not work well at that time. Any
volunteers?
Cheers!!----Happy New Year-----Henry Hore
Message 27
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| Subject: | Just another day in RV-paradise... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Cantrell <kcflyrv@pacbell.net>
Listers,
Today was one of those very special days that we sport aviators live for. A front
passed through yesterday and another will be here tomorrow but today's sky
was littered with varied layers of scattered to broken fair weather cumulus with
unlimited visibility. I had to take care of some chores around the house but
the afternoon was pretty much open. A close friend brought me rushing out to
the front yard when I heard the unmistakable sound of his RV6 which glistened
against the puffy bright white background as he buzzed over the house. At this
point I wasn't sure if the weather was getting better or worse but after Bud
flew over, I was definitely planning a trip to the airport. My oldest son stopped
by to visit, assumed I was going flying and asked to come along. A short
drive to the Lodi airport and we pulled our shiny RV6 out of the hangar into
the sunlight. Wow, after 8 months and 125 hours of pure pleasure, I still can't
believe this is my airplane! After preflight, we strapped ourselves in and
she fired up without hesitation. The air was cool and we took our time taxiing
to the active to let her get toasty warm. We took off on two-six and headed
south to pass over the house for the usual greeting. The air was smooth and visibility
was excellent. After passing over the neighborhood, we decided to point
the nose up and follow the upward canyon of billowy white cotton ahead of
us. The sun was so bright and as we climbed we saw countless tunnels and puffs
of white all around us. The view was breathtaking and a moment later we leveled
at 5000' and turned right then a tight left to check out the next avenue as
we talked about how lucky we were to be onboard this magic carpet and how so
few people get opportunities like this. As we followed the tunnels and canyons
of the snow white clouds we could see through the frequent breaks that we were
still over our home town of Lodi and we could also see the shiny water of the
Delta to the west and the snowcapped sierras to the east. After a few aileron
rolls we pulled back to about half throttle, began letting down and heading
back to the airport. With the magnificent view ahead and above us we decided to
go back on top for one more look. It was just as good the second time around.
The experiences we enjoyed today will be firmly embedded in our memories. These
RVs are so much fun they make you feel like it should be illegal.
When I was building my RV, I remember asking two of my buddies who finished their
RVs a few years earlier-- "What happens when the newness wares off?" They both
simply said, "It Doesn't!" So true... It just keeps getting better and better.
What an awesome airplane!
For those of you still building... Get out in your shop every day and get a little
something done. It will happen to you too. I know it seems like the finish
line keeps moving back but sooner or later you'll run out of jobs and your day
will arrive.
Do not archive
Ken Cantrell
Lodi Ca
RV6 126 hrs
Message 28
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| Subject: | Random (engine??) "POP" noise ... HELP request |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
This is an appeal to the list for help in solving a mystery ....
My partner (Patty) and I have an RV6 with a carbureted O-320 (B2B), that has
a strange "quirk".
From time to time we hear a "pop"/"pup"/"pup-pup" sound that *sounds* like
it could be:
a small backfire -or-
a single misfire -or-
metal oilcanning somewhere -or-
something slipping and banging into something under the cowl -or-
something somewhere else ???
We have no idea what the real deal is and when we removed the cowl last, we
saw nothing askance.
When we inspect the airframe we find nothing so far.
When it happens we *seem* to continue maintaining full power (it is over
quickly).
For a while it *appeared* to happen only during climbout (interestingly
enough only when I was flying at first :-) )
It also seemed to happen once and be over.
It has now happened in LEVEL flight
It has now happened during "pull-up" from level flight
It has now happened with BOTH of us in the plane
It has now happened more than once during a flight
It has now happened more than once during a climbout
Everything else seems just fine with the plane. Hummed beautifully to
Florida and back yesterday.
Any tips? Suggestions? Wild ideas to look into? Similar experiences? Source
of foo-foo dust to exorcise this demon??
James
N996PJ (45+ hours)
"If you don't make dust, you eat dust"
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