Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:04 AM - Re: Oil on airplane belly (Wayne R. Couture)
2. 08:13 AM - Re: Oil on airplane belly (Randy Compton)
3. 09:03 AM - Re: Paint Shops on East Coast (Steven DiNieri)
4. 09:08 AM - Re: 2003 Calendar (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
5. 11:35 AM - Painting (Eustace Bowhay)
6. 04:38 PM - Transponder sold - Navaid still available (Ken Brooks)
7. 05:23 PM - more baffling questions (Dave Ford)
8. 05:43 PM - Re: more baffling questions (Kyle Boatright)
9. 06:38 PM - Re: more baffling questions (Doug Gray)
10. 06:42 PM - IO-360-A power spreadsheet (Kevin Horton)
11. 06:45 PM - Re: more baffling questions (Alex Peterson)
12. 07:12 PM - Re: more baffling questions (Kyle Boatright)
13. 08:57 PM - Re: RV-8 Canopy skirt (Tracy Crook)
14. 09:23 PM - UPDATE #2 ... Random (engine??) "POP" (James E. Clark)
15. 11:09 PM - Can Canadians can save money on shipments? (Norman)
16. 11:23 PM - Canopy Frame Side Skins (Norman)
17. 11:56 PM - Re: Canopy Frame Side Skins (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil on airplane belly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Randy, I am by no means an expert on this subject but, I own a 150 that is
suppose to hold 6 quarts also but will blow out about 1 1/2 quarts after
every oil change. So I just put in 5 quarts and let it settle down to about
4 1/2 and leave it there. It never goes below that. Saves a big mess on my
cowling. You may want to try running a bit low to see if it stops at a
reasonable level.
Wayne
RV-8 qb
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Oil on airplane belly
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
>
> Listers:
>
> I now have about 40 hours since a major overhaul of my Lyc O-320. I have
> been consistently getting some oil on the belly just aft of / in line with
> the engine breather line. This has been happening even while doing
nothing
> but straight-and-level cross country type flying. It's doesn't seem to be
a
> lot, but just enough to make a 6-inch diameter splotch and a few run-back
> lines for a foot or so. The flight-times have all been in the 1 to 2 hour
> range.
>
> Perhaps it could be due to over-servicing the oil quantity, but I am
getting
> this oil mess even when the quantity is showing 6 quarts. I did an oil
> change yesterday and saw no oil leaks anywhere at all on the engine or
> accessories. I've been told that a new/freshly overhauled engine should
not
> be blowing any oil if it is broken-in and serviced correctly, so I'm
> beginning to wonder if I have a cylinder problem or something. I've also
> heard that a glazed cylinder will cause the crankcase to pressurize
> excessively and oil to blow out.
>
> What's puzzling is that I followed the break-in instructions exactly. I
did
> not "baby" the engine, and all the operating temps, etc. have been good.
> I've been running the engine at 65% to 75% power on the x/c flights,
varying
> between the two at 10 to 15 minute intervals.
>
> Any insight here will be most appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Compton
> RV-3 N84VF
> Gulf Breeze, FL
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil on airplane belly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <rdcompton@earthlink.net>
Thanks for all the feedback.
I agree that my oil consumption is high, certainly MUCH higher than
pre-overhaul. I also agree that if it was all coming out the breather, or
leaking out around fittings and hoses, the mess would be bigger.
I'm thinking that maybe the dipstick is off as far as how much oil is really
in the motor. So, the next step is to make sure that the oil is definitely
not overserviced. But the oil is definitely going somewhere, as there is no
doubt that the level is lower on the stick after a few hours of flying.
I, too, had the engine overhauled with an upgrade to high-compression
pistons, had all the flow-matching, balancing, etc. stuff done. It was also
test run by the shop for 4 hours before it was sent to me. But, it doesn't
seem to have much more power than before overhaul. I'm wondering if the oil
use could be a clue to a problem with the engine.
One thing is for sure. Right now it uses oil at a much greater rate than
before the overhaul, and at 40 hours I don't think it will improve much if
the use is not related to simply over-servicing.
Again, thanks for the feedback.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Do Not Archive
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Paint Shops on East Coast |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Charles Bell of Aircraft refinishers of wny just finished my second RV-6
last month. He's a great guy to deal with and is very experimental friendly.
As part of our deal he assigned me some hangar space to final assemble and
get the faa inspection. I test flew it right from his airport.
His web site is
http://www.aircraftrefinisherswny.com
(585) 237-3790
Steve DiNieri
capsteve@adelphia.net
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: 2003 Calendar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Larry, I also believe you are probably thinking of the Rvator Renewal. I
usually pay that at the same time new calendars come out! All this building
tends to fog the memory at times......or maybe it's trying to decide which
primer is better!! Sorry but the list has been a little slow lately.
Do Not Archive
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: 2003 Calendar
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> Hmm. Maybe I'm thinking of the Rvator subscription....
>
> Thanks.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom
> > & Cathy Ervin
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 11:09 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: 2003 Calendar
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
> > --> <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> >
> > Larry, I got my "Van's 2003 Calender" about a month ago.
> > Do Not Archive
> > Tom in Ohio
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: 2003 Calendar
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
> > >
> > > Anyone received the Van's 2003 calendar yet? I paid for two
> > > years-worth last year, but no sign of the '03 yet ......
> > >
> > > -
> > > Larry Bowen
> > > Larry@BowenAero.com
> > > http://BowenAero.com
> > > Do not archive
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Painted the first RV (6 completed 1992) at home in a double garage, turned out
remarkably well considering the conditions. Last year it was time to think about
painting the 6A that is just being completed.
My two main concerns were the toxicity of two part epoxy paints and dust control
so decided to take a different route. Talked to and established a plan with
one of our local well equipped body shops that have a first class paint booth.
We would supply the paint (Endura the same as on the RV 6 which still looks the
same as it did ten years ago) and do the prepping. The painting would be done
in three stages, emp, wings and fuselage. After the parts are prepped they
go to the paint shop and then to the hangar for final assembly, emp and wings
are finished and in the hangar and the fuselage will go around the end of March,
when the weather warms up.
The paint and primer cost was $420.00 Canadian (approx. $275.00 US) and it looks
like we have enough left to finish up. Plan is to go with one basic color and
use vinyl for trim and registration letters. Based on the hourly charges so
far from the body shop it looks like the final cost for painting will be in the
area of $1800.00 CD including the paint.
The finish is just excellent and so far looks like it was the right way to go.
Eustace Bowhay- Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Transponder sold - Navaid still available |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kdbrv8r@charter.net>
Hello, list-ers and Happy New Year!
Just a quick note to let y'all know that the Microair T2000SFL
transponder I had previously advertised has been sold. The Navaid is
still available and I'm lowering the price to $1150, so if you are
interested, the first e-mail by date stamp gets it. Shipping is free to
U.S. addresses. Keep pounding those rivets!
Do not archive
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8QB (airborne by Dec 17th, 2003 - hopefully)
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | more baffling questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Still working on cowling and baffles, currently have ramps bonded to cowl, have
fit outside fabric to baffles for good seal to cowl . Now to the center area
around front of engine. Should the ramp inside ends be glassed over to get a
good seal transitioning from baffle to ramp to cowl?
Dave Ford
RV6
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: more baffling questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Yep, that's the only solution I could come up with, but there may be others.
Glass away!
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: more baffling questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> Still working on cowling and baffles, currently have ramps bonded to cowl,
have fit outside fabric to baffles for good seal to cowl . Now to the
center area around front of engine. Should the ramp inside ends be glassed
over to get a good seal transitioning from baffle to ramp to cowl?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: more baffling questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
I can't picture what you are doing here, where are you glassing?
Doug Gray
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> Yep, that's the only solution I could come up with, but there may be others.
>
> Glass away!
>
> KB
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>>
>>Still working on cowling and baffles, currently have ramps bonded to cowl,
>
> have fit outside fabric to baffles for good seal to cowl . Now to the
> center area around front of engine. Should the ramp inside ends be glassed
> over to get a good seal transitioning from baffle to ramp to cowl?
>
>>Dave Ford
>>RV6
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | IO-360-A power spreadsheet |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
I was away from home over the Christmas period, and I couldn't work
on the project, so I found some time to produce a spreadsheet to
calculate the power output of the Lycoming IO-360-A and C engines.
The Excel 4 spreadsheet basically replicates the graphical power
chart found in the Lycoming Operator Manual. The zipped spreadsheet
can be found on my web site - there is a link in the Engine part of
the RV Links section, and there will be a link on the front page of
the site for the next while.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (baffles, induction air, oil cooler)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | more baffling questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> > cowl,
> have fit outside fabric to baffles for good seal to cowl .
> Now to the center area around front of engine. Should the
> ramp inside ends be glassed over to get a good seal
> transitioning from baffle to ramp to cowl?
I'm not sure the exact area you are writing about, however, the lower
outside corners of the inlet ramp sections I radiused with aluminum.
These little pieces of .016" aluminum are roughly cone shaped, and blend
the baffles right into the cowl lower outside corners.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 247 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: more baffling questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
The inlet ramps are relatively small fiberglass parts that attach to the
inside of the upper cowl, and provide a smooth transition for air as it
enters the cowl.
As supplied, these ramps attach to the lip of the inlet, and to the top of
the cowling. The ramps have no sides, so there is a tunnel running under
each (Left & Right) inlet ramp. Imagine the inexpensive steel ramps you can
buy at the local auto parts store. The ones I've seen don't have solid
sides, so there is a tunnel of sorts under them. You could roll a tennis
ball or whatever through the void. This is OK for the auto ramp, but on our
inlet ramps, one side of each ramp is in the high pressure area of the cowl,
and the other side is on the low pressure side of the cowl. Unless you seal
the tunnel, you're going to lose cooling air without any benefit.
At this point, you have two options - 1) Glass in one end of each ramp, or
2) Make the baffles themselves seal the area, despite some obvious fit
issues.
If you glass in the inside ends of the ramps, it gives you a smooth (rather
than jagged) transition in the area where your baffles shift from sealing
against the inlet ramp to sealing against the top cowl. This is very helpful
in getting a good seal.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Gray" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: RV-List: more baffling questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> I can't picture what you are doing here, where are you glassing?
> Doug Gray
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
> >
> > Yep, that's the only solution I could come up with, but there may be
others.
> >
> > Glass away!
> >
> > KB
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> >>
> >>Still working on cowling and baffles, currently have ramps bonded to
cowl,
> >
> > have fit outside fabric to baffles for good seal to cowl . Now to the
> > center area around front of engine. Should the ramp inside ends be
glassed
> > over to get a good seal transitioning from baffle to ramp to cowl?
> >
> >>Dave Ford
> >>RV6
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Canopy skirt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
I'm just starting to fit the RV-8 canopy skirt and I'm stuck on the step
where it says to trim the skirt 1/4" away from the "scribed line". Look as
I may, there is no trace of a scribed line, mold line, or anything
resembling either.
Can any of you RV-8 builders give me an idea of where the top & bottom of
the skirt ends up relative to canopy frame (top) and junction of top & side
Fuselage skins (bottom)?
Also, everything seems to fit fairly well except for the rear 1/3 of the
skirt at the top edge. It stands out away from the canopy bubble by at
least 1/3", way more than will ever lay down when pop riveted to the canopy
frame. Looks like I'll have to trim most of the top edge above the rivet
line away and lay up some glass to fair it into the canopy bubble. Common
story?
Tracy Crook
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | UPDATE #2 ... Random (engine??) "POP" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <jclark@conterra.com>
First, I must mention that Jeff Rose was such a delight to chat with on the
phone about this matter. He is sending to me some of the "improved" rubber
grommets for the plug wires. (ElectroAir users will know what this is).
Second, I got a chance to go around the pattern once after the "update". I
climbed agressively (~80kts at most) and did NOT get a "pop".
More flying is required before we feel that the problem is "solved". Once
around the pattern is NOT conclusive in proving "solution" but is
potentially conclusive in proving "NOT solution".
We have a trip planned this weekend that should be enough to discover if the
problem persists.
Again THANKS(!!!) to all who sent in suggestions. I still may need to
followup on each.
James
>
<<<< SNIP, SNIP, SNIP >>>>
> Other than that, we have **NOT** tested this yet and the problem
> did NOT manifest itself on the ground (per Jeff, the engine does
> not have enough load to drive the pressure high enough to cause
> the arcing in that situation.)
>
> It was late when we got most of it done and I *hope* the weather
> is good enough to do a flight test tommorrow.
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Can Canadians can save money on shipments? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
This post aimed at Canadian residents only. All others may as well DELETE now.
Sorry.
I just noticed on a recent shipment that our customs department is charging me
7% GST and 7.5% PST on the Canadian dollar equivelant of the total cost of the
shipment. This includes the freight charge. What a burn. Can some one who has
recently gotten a large kit shipment from Van or Mark have a look at your Canada
Customs Postal Import Form (the grey slip you have to pay on arrival) and
let us know if you had to pay Canadian taxes on American freight charges too?
If so, it would seem to me that a Canadian could save quite a few dollars over
the course of the whole project by insisting at time of order to pay the shipping
separately, perhaps by credit card over the phone. Have the shipper send your
freight charge receipt by post in a reg sized envelope and let the large shipment
arrive with the accurate cost of the parts enclosed.
Is this legal?
Would it work?
Things that make you go hmmm......
Do not archive
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Canopy Frame Side Skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
I am about to permanently rivet the canopy frame side skins to the canopy frame.
I must do this with the plexi in place because the plexi won't slide into the
slot after without major squeezing of the plexi. I definately don't want to
do that so my question is - can the plexi handle the vibrations from the rivet
gun in such close proximity? Or should I use the squeezer? (I'd rather not, the
gun does more consistantly nicer, flusher rivets than the squeezer on skins)
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive questions
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Canopy Frame Side Skins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Norman,
Are you talking about the skins to the frame??, if so those are steel pop
rivets and can't be bucked or squeezed because they are riveted to the
canopy fram tube itself.
I assume you're referring to the stiffners and the area where they are
riveted together below the frame?? If so, I'd highly recommend squeezing
them. You probably could get by bucking them, but personally I like to
keep machine gun type tools away from plexi.
I squeezed all of mine and they turned out fine, as did many other builders
that I know. The nice thing with the squeezer, is you can still "tweak" the
side skins while squeezing the rivets with the stiffner/side skin to give
you a nice tight fit on the side skins to the fuselage.
Happy building,
Stein Bruch, Minneapolis
RV6/N664SB - Flying
RV7/N2YU - Empennage.
Do Not Archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Norman
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Frame Side Skins
--> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
I am about to permanently rivet the canopy frame side skins to the canopy
frame. I must do this with the plexi in place because the plexi won't slide
into the slot after without major squeezing of the plexi. I definately don't
want to do that so my question is - can the plexi handle the vibrations from
the rivet gun in such close proximity? Or should I use the squeezer? (I'd
rather not, the gun does more consistantly nicer, flusher rivets than the
squeezer on skins)
Norman Hunger
RV6A Delta BC
Do not archive questions
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|