Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:16 AM - Re: 2003 Calendar (Tracy Crook)
2. 05:28 AM - Re: Multi-pin wire connectors (WernerTR)
3. 06:22 AM - Re: Multi-pin wire connectors (Parker43rp@aol.com)
4. 09:10 AM - Re: 2003 Calendar (gw.plugsup)
5. 09:10 AM - VIRUS ?????????? (lm4@juno.com)
6. 09:10 AM - Engine Stand (Jack Lockamy)
7. 09:39 AM - Re: Why -7 tips on an RV-8 (Tracy Crook)
8. 10:25 AM - Re: Why -7 tips on an RV-8 (Bill VonDane)
9. 10:43 AM - Brand new rotary engine and redrive for sale (Gordon Robertson)
10. 11:41 AM - Re: Gear legs -- titanium? === Some facts. (kempthornes)
11. 12:21 PM - Re: Engine Stand (Don R Jordan)
12. 02:48 PM - Re: Engine Stand (Jim Jewell)
13. 02:52 PM - Mic & Phone Jack Insulators (Fred Stucklen)
14. 03:19 PM - Re: Mic & Phone Jack Insulators (Ed Bundy)
15. 03:25 PM - Titanium (Rick Galati)
16. 03:36 PM - Re: Mic & Phone Jack Insulators (Lenleg@aol.com)
17. 04:20 PM - Re: Engine Stand (Kyle Boatright)
18. 06:14 PM - Re: Engine Stand (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
19. 06:26 PM - Travelogue (Long) (Larry Pardue)
20. 07:55 PM - Re: Multi-pin wire connectors (Charles Kuss)
21. 08:16 PM - Re: Engine Stand (Lkyswede@aol.com)
22. 10:15 PM - 6 Engine mount and gear legs (Ed Holyoke)
23. 11:09 PM - Re: 6 Engine mount and gear legs (Stein Bruch)
24. 11:25 PM - Re: 6 Engine mount and gear legs (Abwaldal@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 2003 Calendar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
>
> OH BOY, OH BOY, A FOOD FIGHT.
>
> From Van's very own on-line spec. sheet.
> RV-7 Span: 25' Wing Sq. ft: 121 Seats: Side by Side
> RV-8 24' 116
> Tandum
>
> IF they are the "same" they are NOT interchangeable and therefore NOT the
> same.
> Do Not Archive. KABONG 8
> )
Can't resist a good debate :-) The only difference is that the 7's center
section is wider than the 8 (of course). I think the wings themselves are
the same.
The other difference is the tips. I used the -7 wingtips on my -8.
Tracy Crook
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Multi-pin wire connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "WernerTR" <wspenner@terra.com.br>
I used Radio Shack PN#276-1474 Male and PN#276-1475 Female, 6 pin miniDIN
conector protected with heat shirink tubing. Worked great on my Avid Flyer
and now Im using on RV-6A.
Werner Spenner
----- Original Message -----
From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Multi-pin wire connectors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
>
> > If we could find out who makes the connectors for the RC airplane
> business, we might be on to what Steve and I have been asking about, which
> is a plug for 6 or so conductors that could be used inside the control
> sticks (and as a trim wiring disconnect). I have looked around, and I
know
> that they are not Deans, they are smaller than Deans by 50%.
> >
> > I KNOW I have seen these on someone's RV site, but I was not smart
enough
> to realize how much trouble I would have finding them later on...The guy
> said he had found them at a supplier to the RC industry and that they were
a
> special made item.
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Multi-pin wire connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Parker43rp@aol.com
Werner-- When and where did you buy the mini DIN #276-1474 connectors? The
Radio Shacks here do not currently stock them.---- Ray
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: 2003 Calendar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "gw.plugsup" <gw.plugsup@shaw.ca>
> Can't resist a good debate :-) The only difference is that the 7's
center
> section is wider than the 8 (of course). I think the wings themselves are
> the same.
> The other difference is the tips. I used the -7 wingtips on my -8.
>
> Tracy Crook
>
>
Tracy, just wondering why you are using the -7 wingtips.
Thanks
Graydon Woods
Message 5
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| Subject: | VIRUS ?????????? |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Iv'e just received a returned peice of mail from the postmaster that
could not be delivered. The reason it could not be delivered is ,
of course, shown in the attachment that came with it. Well, I'm not
sure if I've ever sent Abayman a post. But I'm sure I did not send him
one recently. Needless to say I did'nt open the attachment to "learn
more"
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
On Fri, 3 Jan 2003 18:06:32 -0500 "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com> writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
> <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> That's what they use on the Sonex.
> Cheers!! -------Henry
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Checked the archives on this one without finding a definitive answer to the question:
Can a Lycoming 0-320 be attached to an automotive engine stand by using the prop
flange? Would it harm the crank (or engine) to be stored this way?
TIA,
Jack Lockamy #71103
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Why -7 tips on an RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Two reasons, the -7 tips add about a foot more to the total span compared to
the -8 tips and they look cooler than the standard -8 tips.
I wanted more span to keep the wing loading the same as a -4 with an O -
320 Lyc. I'm installing a 260 HP 20B 3 rotor engine which will weigh the
same as an IO - 360 w/ CS prop installation.
Tracy Crook
13B powered RV-4 1300 Hrs
20B powered RV-8 still building
> --> RV-List message posted by: "gw.plugsup" <gw.plugsup@shaw.ca>
>
> > Can't resist a good debate :-) The only difference is that the 7's
> center
> > section is wider than the 8 (of course). I think the wings themselves
are
> > the same.
> > The other difference is the tips. I used the -7 wingtips on my -8.
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> >
> >
>
> Tracy, just wondering why you are using the -7 wingtips.
>
> Thanks
> Graydon Woods
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Why -7 tips on an RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <n8wv@vondane.com>
AND... Don't forget that my landing light kit fits right into the -7 tips
with the lighting provision...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A ~ 85 hrs
http://www.vondane.com/landlightkit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why -7 tips on an RV-8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
>
> Two reasons, the -7 tips add about a foot more to the total span compared
to
> the -8 tips and they look cooler than the standard -8 tips.
>
> I wanted more span to keep the wing loading the same as a -4 with an O -
> 320 Lyc. I'm installing a 260 HP 20B 3 rotor engine which will weigh the
> same as an IO - 360 w/ CS prop installation.
>
> Tracy Crook
> 13B powered RV-4 1300 Hrs
> 20B powered RV-8 still building
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "gw.plugsup" <gw.plugsup@shaw.ca>
> >
> > > Can't resist a good debate :-) The only difference is that the 7's
> > center
> > > section is wider than the 8 (of course). I think the wings themselves
> are
> > > the same.
> > > The other difference is the tips. I used the -7 wingtips on my -8.
> > >
> > > Tracy Crook
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Tracy, just wondering why you are using the -7 wingtips.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Graydon Woods
Message 9
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|
<lancair-list@matronics.com>, <glasair-list@matronics.com>,
<engines-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Brand new rotary engine and redrive for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon Robertson" <res0rlvx@verizon.net>
Folks,
Here is a great opportunity for anyone wishing to power his/her homebuilt
with a Rotary engine.
Due to changed circumstances, I have to sell my RX-7 engine that I was
preparing for my RV8. This is a 0 hour engine, complete with Real World
Solutions redrive and electronic control box, modified with high compression
rotors, ceramic apex seals, street porting and many other mods to achieve
180 hp. The engine and redrive are brand new.
I have invested over $7,400 on this engine, and am letting it go for $6,500.
I am in the San Jose, CA area, but can ship the engine anywhere.
You can see the details at http://mysite.verizon.net/res0rlvx Contact me at
g.robertson3@verizon.net, or (408) 778 2246
Gordon Robertson
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Gear legs -- titanium? === Some facts. |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Check out www.titanium.org --- from the menu on the right pick TI
information.
Outstanding corrosion resistance.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Stand |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don R Jordan <dons6a@juno.com>
Sounds like a lot of moment to me. I built a stand from wood 2 bys. iT
looks like Louisana from the side,.
I removed the dip stick housing & pluged all the holes. Grounded the mags
& Stored with 12 quarts of auto oil upside down.
Don Jordan - RV6A - N6DJ
Arlington, Tx
*****************************************************************
On Sat, 4 Jan 2003 09:03:39 -0800 "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Checked the archives on this one without finding a definitive answer
> to the question:
>
> Can a Lycoming 0-320 be attached to an automotive engine stand by
> using the prop flange? Would it harm the crank (or engine) to be
> stored this way?
>
> TIA,
> Jack Lockamy #71103
> Camarillo, CA
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Stand |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Jack,
I doubt if you will find anyone agreeing with this type of airaft engine
storage mounting.
The flange is strong But!? $$$$$$ if it is not stong enough!?
Storing the engine weight standing vertically on it's prop flange is the
industry standard. Storing this way will not cause problems.
A local area welder should be able to build a simple metal industry standard
stand with castors that you could sell later to get most of the cash back in
hand. A cardboard flange template provided to the welder will give him all
he should need to build the stand.
My guess is that if you do this the stand will be a keeper.
If you wish to, do as some others have done. Lay the engine on it's back
(upside down) on a pallet on castors. Use a car tire or some other soft pad
in between.
If the storage is going to be long term seal it up completely and fill with
oil that can be used later in the family beater. Put a drip catching devise
under it and get help every once in a while to turn it over. Do this on a
frequent basis.
Go with the welded stand (;-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Stand
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
>
> Checked the archives on this one without finding a definitive answer to
the question:
>
> Can a Lycoming 0-320 be attached to an automotive engine stand by using
the prop flange? Would it harm the crank (or engine) to be stored this way?
>
> TIA,
> Jack Lockamy #71103
> Camarillo, CA
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Mic & Phone Jack Insulators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Listers,
Anybody know where I might obtain the insulators for microphone and headset
jacks. These are the special fiber washers that insulate the microphone & headset
jacks from the panel. They are required by most intercom/radio installations.
They did not come with my SL10SM (UPS) audio panel.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A
Wiring the instrument panel
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Mic & Phone Jack Insulators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
I couldn't find any locally, so I used appropriate sized rubber grommets.
Use one that's a snug i.d. for the jacks, and drill the panel accordingly.
Then just snug the nut down on it and voila, instant insulation and shock
mounting all in one.
Ed Bundy RV6a 500+ hours
> Anybody know where I might obtain the insulators for microphone and
headset jacks. These are the special fiber washers that insulate the
microphone & headset jacks from the panel. They are required by most
intercom/radio installations. They did not come with my SL10SM (UPS) audio
panel.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick07x@earthlink.net>
The recent thread about using titanium in our RV's is personally
interesting to me based upon years of working with this metal,
particularly in its very extensive application on the F-15 Eagle, including a
large percentage of the wing skins. I cannot offer an engineer's
familiarity of titanium's properties, the only knowledge many of us earning an
hourly wage knew for certain was (besides knowing most of the world's
known reserves of titanium ore happens to occur in Russia) it is
a material that is stronger and lighter than steel, tough to drill and we
didn't have to alodine it. From a practical point of
experience, I can assure the uninitiated that it is a difficult metal
to work with. If you think you are simply going to pick up a piece of titanium
stock and drill a hole though it like aluminum or 4130, think again. No
dull drill bits need apply. Too dull a bit or improper feed rate and you
will surely crystallize the work or snap the bit off in the work, or
will quickly transform the tip of your drill bit into a dull to cherry
red conversation piece in short order. Under the best of circumstances you
will give your drill chuck a good work out by replacing dulled
drill bits frequently. The last time I checked, the 5/16" hole
that bolts the gear leg into the gear mount on a 6 is something in excess of
1-1/4" inch thick and if this material were titanium, you'd better buy
those future after-market gear legs with the holes already in them. That
said, for my own amusement, I have fashioned a few small parts out of
.050 titanium stock for use on my RV primarily to hang the exhaust system.
Forget about using a home handy man band saw blade, you'll just make
a fool out of yourself. Shaping? A grinding wheel or a heavy
duty sanding disk with a nearby water trough to frequently cool the work is
essential. I'm not saying this stuff is impossible to work with but
if you feel comfortable cutting, drilling and shaping, say ...a bucking bar, you
should feel right at home working with titanium.
--- Rick Galati
--- rick07x@earthlink.net
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Mic & Phone Jack Insulators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Fred:
I may have a couple of extra ones you can have if you are interested?
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
44 hours
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Stand |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I was going to suggest the "old tire" storage method. I've seen used
Lycomings shipped cross country that way (right side up), with the carb
removed. Seemed to work just fine.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Stand
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hello Jack,
>
> I doubt if you will find anyone agreeing with this type of airaft engine
> storage mounting.
> The flange is strong But!? $$$$$$ if it is not stong enough!?
>
> Storing the engine weight standing vertically on it's prop flange is the
> industry standard. Storing this way will not cause problems.
> A local area welder should be able to build a simple metal industry
standard
> stand with castors that you could sell later to get most of the cash back
in
> hand. A cardboard flange template provided to the welder will give him all
> he should need to build the stand.
> My guess is that if you do this the stand will be a keeper.
>
> If you wish to, do as some others have done. Lay the engine on it's back
> (upside down) on a pallet on castors. Use a car tire or some other soft
pad
> in between.
> If the storage is going to be long term seal it up completely and fill
with
> oil that can be used later in the family beater. Put a drip catching
devise
> under it and get help every once in a while to turn it over. Do this on a
> frequent basis.
>
> Go with the welded stand (;-)!
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
> To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Engine Stand
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
> >
> > Checked the archives on this one without finding a definitive answer to
> the question:
> >
> > Can a Lycoming 0-320 be attached to an automotive engine stand by using
> the prop flange? Would it harm the crank (or engine) to be stored this
way?
> >
> > TIA,
> > Jack Lockamy #71103
> > Camarillo, CA
> > www.jacklockamy.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Stand |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
My engine is conical mount , so I welded up a mount from 1"X1" angle to bolt
onto the mount end of the engine . I bolted this to my auto engine stand . I
could turn the engine over frequently and it was handy while bolting on
accessories. Could also build to fit Dyna-focal mount - just use some washers
from old tires to cushion it.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 19
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| Subject: | Travelogue (Long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Listers:
After a kind of wet fall, we have settled into day after day of clear blue
weather. Visibility the last few days has been on the order of 200 miles or
so.
After arriving home from the high school, Carlsbad Cavegirl, basketball game
last night, I had an e-mail, from Judy, that a bunch of the Lubbock, TX area
folk were planning to fly up to Santa Fe, NM for lunch on Saturday. Sounded
real good to me to turn a day where I could be productive, into an RV day.
On the way up to Santa Fe, I noticed I could see a specific theatre near
Ruidoso, New Mexico from 40 miles away. I think about 6 RV's and 1 Cherokee
235, on the way back from Vail, arrived at Santa Fe around 11:30.
We had a nice lunch at the airport cafe, then split up. Some people roamed
the, quite interesting, airport, checking out several unusual airplanes,
like President Eisenhower's Columbine constellation and a rentable, two seat
MIG 15, as well as more mundane European jet aircraft.
The rest of us sponged a ride into town from a friend of mine. Santa Fe is
one of the few places in the United States, that still retains an individual
identity. New Orleans is another. It is kind of the cradle of civilization
for non-native Americans. Everywhere you go it is the oldest this or the
oldest that in America. On casual observation one might think that this is
southwest style architecture. On further reflection these are the buildings
southwest style architecture is based on. They are the original, very very
old structures.
In the plaza, my favorite piece of Navajo jewelry was a very nice rain
cloud, with dangling rain streams hooked into holes in the CuNim cloud.
Available in either female, or male (with lightning) versions.
In our quick walk around downtown we went into the Loretto Chapel with its
amazing wood, unbraced, spiral staircase and we ducked into the Georgia
O'Keeffe museum for a short time. Georgia O'Keeffe is a big favorite of
mine for many reasons. One of the reasons is that she chose to live in New
Mexico for most of her life. Another one of the reasons is that she loved
flying and the views from airplanes, and as far as I know, is the only great
artist to make many painting of the views from airplanes. Mostly rivers and
views of cumulus clouds from above. I recently ran into a quote of hers:
Well, you see, we
really haven't found
enough dreams. We
haven't dreamed
enough. When you
fly under even normal
circumstances, you
see such marvelous things,
such incredible colors
that you actually begin
to believe in your dreams.
-Georgia O'Keeffe
Lubbock, where most of the people in our group are from, is the very epitome
of the word PLAINS. It is a nice town, with great people, but it is also
the place Mac Davis wrote about in his song about seeing it in his rear view
mirror. Santa Fe, is a very very different place. I heard several comments
from the Lubbock folk about the wonderful smell of Pinon Pines and the
amazing fact that they were in this place of biting winds, snow, and 13,000
foot mountains in only one and a half hours from Lubbock, Texas, by RV.
On the way home, my right seat rider, George West, expressed views similar
to Ms. O'Keeffe's. We were looking at faults and thousands upon thousands
of sinkholes in the karst country northeast of the Capitan Mountains when he
opined that he might get tired of looking at this stuff sometime, but it
sure hadn't happened yet.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying With Joy
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Multi-pin wire connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Kuss <chaskuss@yahoo.com>
Werner,
I just did a search on Radio Shack's online catalog
for the 2 part numbers you supplied. No joy on either
one. Are you sure it was Radio Shack? Is there a typo
on the connector numbers?
Charlie Kuss
--- WernerTR <wspenner@terra.com.br> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "WernerTR"
> <wspenner@terra.com.br>
>
> I used Radio Shack PN#276-1474 Male and PN#276-1475
> Female, 6 pin miniDIN
> conector protected with heat shirink tubing. Worked
> great on my Avid Flyer
> and now Im using on RV-6A.
> Werner Spenner
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norman" <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Multi-pin wire connectors
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Norman"
> <nhunger@sprint.ca>
> >
> > > If we could find out who makes the connectors
> for the RC airplane
> > business, we might be on to what Steve and I have
> been asking about, which
> > is a plug for 6 or so conductors that could be
> used inside the control
> > sticks (and as a trim wiring disconnect). I have
> looked around, and I
> know
> > that they are not Deans, they are smaller than
> Deans by 50%.
> > >
> > > I KNOW I have seen these on someone's RV site,
> but I was not smart
> enough
> > to realize how much trouble I would have finding
> them later on...The guy
> > said he had found them at a supplier to the RC
> industry and that they were
> a
> > special made item.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
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>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Stand |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lkyswede@aol.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV-List:6 Engine mount and gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Hey listers,
I did a test fit of my engine mount on the firewall of the six and it
appears that the gear leg receptacle interferes with the firewall flange
and fuselage bottom skin at the corners. My guess is that the flange
gets wallowed out as necessary and the upper gear leg fairing will cover
it all up. Is that what everybody else did? The instructions don't
mention it, except to refer to page 60 and they didn't bother to include
that page of the plans with my QB kit.
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
6QB
Message 23
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| Subject: | RE: RV-List:6 Engine mount and gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Ed,
You're right--Hog away!
Everything does get covered up with the fairings.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Flying
RV7, Empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RV-List:6 Engine mount and gear legs
--> RV-List message posted by: Ed Holyoke <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Hey listers,
I did a test fit of my engine mount on the firewall of the six and it
appears that the gear leg receptacle interferes with the firewall flange
and fuselage bottom skin at the corners. My guess is that the flange
gets wallowed out as necessary and the upper gear leg fairing will cover
it all up. Is that what everybody else did? The instructions don't
mention it, except to refer to page 60 and they didn't bother to include
that page of the plans with my QB kit.
Thanks,
Ed Holyoke
6QB
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:6 Engine mount and gear legs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Abwaldal@aol.com
Hi Ed
You are correct in your assumption. Anyway that's what I did with out
asking anybody as there is no other way to solve the problem. As with a lot
of these things you're on your own.
Good luck, I used a carbide 1/4" router bit and gouged it out until I
had 1/4' clearance around it.
Art B. Waldal
Rv-6 just drilled my gear legs. alot of slow drilling
DO NOT ARC
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